Adam Ondra

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Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra Imst 2009.JPG
Personal information
Nationality Czech Republic
Born (1993-02-05) February 5, 1993 (age 21)
Brno
Height 185 centimetres (6 ft 1 in)
Weight 68 kilograms (150 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climber Sport climbing
Highest grade
Updated on 11 May 2013.

Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993 in Brno) is a Czech rock climber. He also participates in sport climbing and bouldering competitions.

He is the only athlete to have won the World Championships in two disciplines, lead and bouldering. In addition, he succeeded to win both medals in the same year, during the 2014 edition. He has also a similar record in the World Cup, being the only athlete to have won the World Cup in two disciplines, lead in 2009 and bouldering in 2010.

As of 7 December 2014, he climbed 1,162 routes between 8a (5.13b) and 9b+ (5.15c), of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).[1] He is the first climber to have redpointed a route with a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c) (Change, Flatanger, 4 October 2012)[2] and the only climber to have redpointed three 9b+ (5.15c) routes.

Biography[edit]

Adam Ondra at the IFSC Lead Worldcup Imst 2009

Ondra started climbing at the age of six; his parents are climbers and they shared their passion with him. In 1999 (at age six) at Rovinj in Croatia Ondra climbed 6a (5.10a) routes with bolts every half meter. In 2001 (at age eight) he onsighted 7b+ (5.12c) routes and in 2002 (at age nine) he onsighted 7c+ (5.13a) and redpointed 8a (5.13b). He onsighted 8a (5.13b) routes in 2003 (at age ten). In 2004 (at age eleven) Ondra climbed several 8a+ (5.13c) onsight[3] and 8c (5.14b) redpoints. In 2005 (at age twelve) he onsighted 8b (5.13d) routes, and in 2006 he managed to climb his first 9a (5.14d), Martin Krpan at Misja Pec. Ondra became famous in climbing magazines as his achievements grew more and more notable.

In 2007 and 2008 he won the IFSC Youth World Championship category Youth B.

In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup and won, beating Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma.[4]

In 2010 he also won the Bouldering World Cup, beating Austrian Kilian Fischhuber and Japanese Tsukuru Hori, and becoming the first athlete in history to win both the disciplines (lead and bouldering).[5]

In March 2011 during a trip in Spain Ondra became the second person ever to have onsighted 8c+ (5.14c) after Patxi Usobiaga. In a couple of days he onsighted five 8c+ (5.14c) routes (two of which in the same day).[6]

On October 4, 2012, Ondra sent Change, found in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway. It is the first route to receive a proposed grade of 9b+ (5.15c).[2][7]

On October 29, 2012, Ondra flashed one of the Red River Gorge's hardest routes, Southern Smoke Direct 9a+ (5.15a), suggesting the grade of 9a (5.14d).[8][9] On November 1, he onsighted Pure Imagination and The Golden Ticket, both 9a, suggesting the grade of 8c+.[10]

On February 7, 2013, Ondra sent La Dura Dura, in Oliana, Spain, his second 9b+ (5.15c) after Change. He worked on this project with Chris Sharma and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks of work.[11]

On February 9, 2013, just two days after La Dura Dura, Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the 9b (5.15b) Fight or flight, first climbed by Sharma in 2011.[12]

On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second 9a (5.14d) onsight in history after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of Cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland.[13]

Ranking[edit]

Adam Ondra at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010

Climbing World Cup[edit]

2009 2010 2014
Lead 1 3 3
Bouldering 15 1

Climbing World Championships[edit]

2009 2011 2012 2014
Lead 2 3 3 1
Bouldering 2 1

Climbing European Championships[edit]

2010
Lead 2
Bouldering 2

Rock Master[edit]

2009 2010 2011 2012
Lead 3 3 5
Duel 1 2

Single-pitch routes[edit]

The table below shows the impressively large number of routes graded 8a (5.13b) or more ascended by Adam Ondra in about 12 years, from 2 August 2002 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to 7 December 2014.[1] The total number is 1162, of which 3 were at 9b+ (5.15c) and 548 were onsights, including 3 onsights at 9a (5.14d) and 15 onsights at 8c+ (5.14c).

Interestingly, the total number of routes graded 9a (5.14d) or more is exactly 100.[14]

Number of ascended routes
Grade Redpoint Flash On-sight Total
9b+ (5.15c) 3 3
9b (5.15b) 9 9
9a+ (5.15a) 20 20
9a (5.14d) 64 1 3 68
8c+ (5.14c) 96 15 111
8c (5.14b) 93 1 36 130
8b+ (5.14a) 66 3 53 122
8b (5.13d) 88 15 112 215
8a+ (5.13c) 60 15 164 239
8a (5.13b) 49 31 165 245
Total 548 66 548 1162

Redpoint[edit]

  • 9b+/5.15c:
    • Vasil Vasil - Sloup (CZE) - 4 December 2013 - First ascent
    • La Dura Dura - Oliana (ESP) - 7 February 2013 - First ascent[11]
    • Change - Flatanger (NOR) - 4 October 2012 - First ascent[2]
  • 9b/5.15b :
    • First Round First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - 3 February 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
    • Move - Flatanger (NOR) - 20 August 2013 - First ascent, Ondra graded the route 9b/+
    • Iron Curtain - Flatanger (NOR) - 3 August 2013 - First ascent
    • Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - 9 February 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011)[12]
    • La planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 22 April 2011 - First ascent[15]
    • Chilam Balam - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 13 April 2011 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed)[16]
    • Chaxi Raxi - Oliana (ESP) - 27 March 2011 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start[17]
    • La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - 16 February 2011 - First ascent[18]
    • Golpe de Estado - Siurana (ESP) - 13 March 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)[19]
  • 9a+/5.15a:
    • Biographie - Céüse (FRA) - 22 July 2014 - Tenth ascent
    • Ini Ameriketan - Baltzola (ESP) - 9 May 2014
    • Hell Racer - Hell (NOR) - 22 September 2013 - First ascent
    • Kangaroo's Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - 21 September 2013 - First ascent
    • Torture Physique Integrale - Gastlosen (SWI) - 7 July 2013 - First ascent
    • Power Inverter - Oliana (ESP) - 25 January 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2010)
    • Thor's Hammer - Flatanger (NOR) - 8 July 2012 - First ascent
    • Jungle Boogie - Céüse (FRA) - 7 June 2012 - First ascent[20]
    • Perlorodka - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 6 September 2011 - First ascent
    • Overshadow - Malham Cove (UK) - 16 May 2011 - Second ascent of Steve McClure's route[21]
    • Chaxi - Oliana (ESP) - 21 March 2011 - First ascent of Chris Sharma's project
    • Obrint el sistema - Santa Ana (ESP) - 14 March 2011 - First ascent of Daniel Andrada's project[22]
    • L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs - Céüse (FRA) - 4 September 2010 - First ascent[23]
    • Goldrake - Cornalba (ITA) - 6 April 2010 - First ascent[24]
    • Marina Superstar - Domusnovas (ITA) - 20 October 2009 - First ascent[25]
    • Corona - Frankenjura (GER) - 7 June 2009 - Second ascent of Markus Bock's route (2006)[26]
    • Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - 24 February 2009 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)[27]
    • Open Air - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - 17 November 2008 - Second ascent of Alexander Huber's route (1996)[28]
    • La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - 10 February 2008 - Sixth ascent[29]

Onsight[edit]

  • 9a/5.14d:
    • TCT - Gravere (ITA) - 11 July 2014
    • Il Domani - Baltzola (ESP) - 3 May 2014
    • Cabane au Canada - Rawyl (SUI) - 9 July 2013 - Second 9a onsight in history[13]
  • 8c+/5.14c:
    • Super Plafond - Volx (FRA) - 6 July 2014
    • Chambao - Baltzola (ESP) - 7 May 2013[30]
    • Pure Imagination - Red River Gorge (USA) - 1 November 2012
    • Golden Ticket - Red River Gorge (USA) - 1 November 2012
    • Muy Verdes - Flatanger (NOR) - 11 July 2012
    • Eye of Odin - Flatanger (NOR) - 8 July 2012
    • Deltaplane Man Direct - Entraygues (FRA) - 31 May 2012
    • Bella Regis - Bus De Vela (ITA) - 7 April 2012[31]
    • L'Avaro - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - 13 July 2011[32]
    • La Rubia - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 13 April 2011
    • Blanquita - Oliana (ESP) - 27 March 2011[33]
    • Mind Control - Oliana (ESP) - 20 March 2011[34]
    • Powerade - Vadiello (ESP) - 9 March 2011[35]
    • Bizi Euskaraz - Etxauri (ESP) - 7 March 2011[36]
    • Kidetasunaren balio erantsia - Etxauri (ESP) - 6 March 2011 - Second 8c+ onsight in history after route by Patxi Usobiaga in 2007[37]
  • 8c/5.14b:
    • Aktion Talon - Höllental (AUT) - 29 June 2013
    • Into the Wild - Jaén (ESP) - 16 March 2013
    • Terapia de Grito - Cuenca (ESP) - 13 February 2013
    • El Calvario del Sicario - Cuenca (ESP) - 10 February 2013
    • Nordic Flower - Flatanger (NOR) - 9 July 2012
    • Scoglio de Capri - Bus De Vela (ITA) - 7 April 2012
    • Iluzija - Kotecnik (SLO) - 5 April 2012
    • 5 Uve - Arco (ITA) - 27 June 2011
    • Bat Route - Malham Cove (UK) - 16 May 2011
    • Carbunco - Archidona (ESP) - 23 April 2011
    • Kalliste - Archidona (ESP) - 23 April 2011
    • Fuck the police - Etxauri (ESP) - 6 March 2011
    • Dures Limites - Céüse (FRA) - 10 August 2010[38]
    • Smoke - Pierrot beach (FRA) - 5 August 2010
    • Home Sweet Home - Pierrot beach (FRA) - 5 August 2010
    • Guère d'usure - Claret (FRA) - 29 January 2010[39]
    • Super Samson - Claret (FRA) - 29 January 2010[39]
    • Gora Guta Gutarak - Kalymnos (GRE) - 22 May 2009[40]
    • Una Vida Nomada - Covolo (ITA) - 21 April 2009[41]
    • Nagay - Covolo (ITA) - 21 April 2009[41]
    • L'espiadimondis - Margalef (ESP) - 2 March 2009
    • Los Humildes Pa Casa - Oliana (ESP) - 24 February 2009
    • Métaphysique Des Tubes - Seynes (FRA) - 21 February 2009
    • Absinth - Sparchen (AUT) - 16 August 2008
    • Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - 7 February 2008
    • Digital System - Santa Linya (ESP) - 5 February 2008

Bouldering[edit]

Ondra has climbed 202 boulders between 8A/V11 and 8C+/V16:

  • 2 8C+/V16 boulders
  • 6 8C/V15 boulders
  • 18 8B+/V14 boulders
  • 35 8B/V13 boulders
  • 56 8A+/V12 boulders
  • 85 8A/V11 boulders

Ondra won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008,[42] 2009[43] 2010[44] and 2011.[45]

  • 8C+/V16:
    • Gioia - Varazze (ITA) - 6 December 2011 - Second ascent of Christian Core's boulder (2008)[46]
    • Terranova - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 10 November 2011 - First ascent, traverse[47]
  • 8C/V15:
    • Cháron - Petrohrad / Mlýnský vrch (CZE) - 15 October 2011 - First ascent[48]
    • Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (SUI) - 1 October 2011 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
    • Pata ledovce - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 6 September 2011 - First ascent[49]
    • Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (ZA) - 14 August 2011 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
    • From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (SUI) - 30 November 2010 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005)[50]
    • Big Paw - Chironico (SUI) - 29 November 2010 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)[51]

Multi-pitch routes[edit]

Karambony East Face - Tough Enough route runs in the middle
  • Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo (Madagascar) - 10 October 2010 - First free ascent
  • Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (Madagascar) - 7 October 2010
  • Tough Enough Original - Karambony (Madagascar) - 4 October 2010 - First free ascent[52]
  • Tough Enough - Karambony (Madagascar) - 30 September 2010 - First free ascent[53]
  • Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - 18 October 2008 - First onsight ascent[54]
  • Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée di Aiglun (FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent[55]
  • WoGü - Rätikon (SUI) - 26 July 2008 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlander's route (1997[56]
  • Zub za zub - Rätikon (SUI) - 29 July 2007 - First free ascent[57]
  • Silbergeier - Rätikon (SUI) - 27 July 2007[58]

Filmography[edit]

  • The Wizard's Apprentice - 2012 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood - 110'[59]

Awards[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b "Adam Ondra - Ascended routes - All time". 8a.nu. Retrieved 7 December 2014. 
  2. ^ a b c Dougald MacDonald (4 October 2012). "Adam Ondra Climbs 5.15c in Norway". Climbing. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  3. ^ "Adam Ondra - 11 year kid 8a+ onsight". Czech Climbing. 15 May 2004. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  4. ^ "Climbing World Cup Lead 2009 won by Johanna Ernst and Adam Ondra". PlanetMountain.com. 16 November 2009. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  5. ^ Genna Ord (2 August 2010). "Ondra, Noguchi Win 2010 Bouldering World Cup". Climbing. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  6. ^ Amanda Fox (21 March 2011). "A New Level: Ondra Onsights Five 5.14c’s". Climbing. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  7. ^ "Adam Ondra Does FA of World's Hardest Route". Rock and Ice. 4 October 2012. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  8. ^ http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/adam-ondra-flashes-514d15a
  9. ^ "Adam Ondra Flashes 5.14d/15a". dpmclimbing.com. Retrieved 13 November 2012. 
  10. ^ "Ondra Onsights Two Red River 5.14d Routes". climbing.com. Retrieved 13 November 2012. 
  11. ^ a b "Ondra Puts Down La Dura Dura (5.15c)". Climbing. Retrieved 7 February 2013. 
  12. ^ a b "Ondra Adds 5.15b To Spanish Route Tally". Climbing. Retrieved 10 February 2013. 
  13. ^ a b Björn Pohl (9 July 2013). "La cabane au Canada, 9a, onsight by Ondra". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 10 July 2013. 
  14. ^ Planetmountain, ed. (5 December 2014). "Adam Ondra, the 100 x 9a or harder interview". Retrieved 7 December 2014. 
  15. ^ Björn Pohl. "La Planta de Shiva, 9b, by Adam Ondra". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  16. ^ Björn Pohl. "Adam Ondra Climbs Chilam Balam". UKClimbing. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  17. ^ "Adam Ondra, 9b first ascent and 8c+ on-sight in a day at Oliana". PlanetMountain.com. 28 March 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  18. ^ "Adam Ondra, interview after La Capella 9b at Siurana". PlanetMountain.com. 7 March 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  19. ^ "Adam Ondra, Golpe de estado at Siurana". PlanetMountain.com. 22 March 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  20. ^ "Adam Ondra frees Jungle Boogie 9a+ at Ceuse". PlanetMountain.com. 7 June 2012. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  21. ^ Björn Pohl. "Ondra gets Overshadow". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  22. ^ "Adam Ondra on Obrint el Sistema". Climbing. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  23. ^ "Ondra in Céüse: 9a+ and 9a's FA Updated". UP climbing. 6 September 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  24. ^ "Adam Ondra 9a+ first ascent". UP climbing. 8 April 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  25. ^ "Adam Ondra, Marina Superstar 9a+/9b in Sardinia". PlanetMountain.com. 27 October 2009. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  26. ^ "Adam Ondra climbs Corona 9a+ in the Frankenjura". PlanetMountain.com. 12 June 2009. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  27. ^ "Adam Ondra - Papichulo 9a+ and 8c OS". Czech Climbing. 24 February 2009. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  28. ^ "Adam Ondra, Open Air and Hotel Supramonte". PlanetMountain.com. 20 November 2008. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  29. ^ "Adam Ondra climbs La Rambla 9a+ at Siurana". PlanetMountain.com. 11 February 2008. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  30. ^ Björn Pohl. "Chambao, 8c+, onsight by Ondra". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 10 July 2013. 
  31. ^ Björn Pohl. "Bella regis, 8c+, onsight by Ondra". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  32. ^ "Adam Ondra, L'Avaro 8c+ on-sight". PlanetMountain.com. 14 July 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  33. ^ "Super Ondra in Oliana: 9b FA and 8c+ os". UP climbing. 28 March 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  34. ^ "Ondra: fifth 8c+ onsight". UP climbing. 21 March 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  35. ^ "Adam Ondra again two 8c+ onsight". UP climbing. 9 March 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  36. ^ "Adam Ondra, ¡8c+ a vista en Etxauri!". Desnivel. 7 March 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  37. ^ "Adam Ondra, deuxième homme à réussir du 8c+ à vue (édité)". Kairn.com (in French). 8 March 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  38. ^ "Ondra in Céüse". UP climbing. 13 August 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  39. ^ a b "The "onsight day" by Adam Ondra". UP climbing. 4 February 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  40. ^ "8c+ onsight by Ondra". UP climbing. 25 May 2009. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  41. ^ a b "Adam Ondra and the first 8c on-sight in Italy". PlanetMountain.com. 5 May 2009. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  42. ^ "Melloblocco... bouldering galore!". PlanetMountain.com. 12 May 2008. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  43. ^ Vinicio Stefanello (11 May 2009). "Melloblocco #6 and the treasure map". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  44. ^ "Melloblocco 2010 according to Adam Ondra and Nico Favresse...". PlanetMountain.com. 20 May 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  45. ^ "Melloblocco 2011 – a new bouldering and Val Masino record". PlanetMountain.com. 8 May 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  46. ^ "Adam Ondra repeats Gioia 8C+ at Varazze". PlanetMountain.com. 6 December 2011. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  47. ^ Björn Pohl. "8C+ boulder by Ondra". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  48. ^ Björn Pohl. "8C and 8B+ by Ondra in a day". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  49. ^ Björn Pohl. "8C FA and 9a+ by Ondra". UKClimbing.com. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  50. ^ "8C again for Adam Ondra". UP climbing. 2 December 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  51. ^ "Big Paw 8C by Ondra and Robinson". UP climbing. 30 November 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  52. ^ "Extraordinary Adam Ondra in Madagascar". UP climbing. 16 October 2010. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  53. ^ Nicholas Hobley (16 October 2010). "Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  54. ^ "Hotel Supramonte on-sight by Adam Ondra". Czech Climbing. 21 October 2008. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  55. ^ "Ali Baba for Adam Ondra". Kairn.com. 8 July 2008. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  56. ^ "Adam Ondra climbed multipitch WoGü 8c in Ratikon". Czech Climbing. 29 July 2008. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  57. ^ "Photos from Adam Ondra´s climb of multi-pitch Silbergeier 8b+". Czech Climbing. 6 August 2007. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  58. ^ "Adam Ondra climbs Silbergeier (Rätikon), Abysse (Gorges du Loup) and Speed (Voralpsee)". PlanetMountain.com. 7 August 2008. Retrieved 7 October 2012. 
  59. ^ "The Wizard's Apprentice". adamondrafilm.com. Retrieved 10 February 2013. 
  60. ^ "Arco Rock Legends 2008 won by Adam Ondra and Maja Vidmar". rockmaster.com. Retrieved 10 July 2013. 
  61. ^ "Arco Rock Legends 2010 to Manolo, Ondra & Noguchi". planetmountain.com. 18 July 2010. Retrieved 10 July 2013. 
  62. ^ "Arco Rock Legends 2011, the winners". arco2011.it. Retrieved 10 July 2013. 
  63. ^ Vinicio Stefanello (7 September 2013). "Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic win Arco Rock Legends 2013". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 7 September 2013. 

External links[edit]