Adam Ondra

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Adam Ondra
Personal information
Nationality  Czech Republic
Born February 5, 1993(1993-02-05)
Brno
Occupation Rock Climber
Height 1.80 m (5 ft 11 in)
Weight 58 kg (130 lb; 9.1 st)
Sport
Sport Lead climbing, Bouldering
Achievements and titles
World finals

IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup: 1 IFSC Bouldering World Cup: 1

Rock Master: 1
Medal record
IFSC World Championship
Bronze Arco 2011 Lead climbing
Silver Arco 2011 Bouldering
Silver Qinghai 2009 Lead climbing
IFSC European Championship
Silver Imst/Innsbruck 2010 Lead climbing
Silver Imst/Innsbruck 2010 Bouldering

Adam Ondra (born February 5, 1993 in Brno) is a Czech rock climber. He also participates in lead climbing and bouldering competitions.

Contents

[edit] Biography

Adam at the IFSC Lead Worldcup Imst 2009

Adam started climbing at the age of six, his parents are climbers and they share their passion with him. In 1999 (at age six) at Rovinj in Croatia Adam climbed 6a/5.9 routes with bolts every half meter. In 2001 (at age eight) he onsighted 7b+/5.12c routes and in 2002 (at age nine) he onsighted 7c+/5.13 and redpointed 8a/5.13b. He onsighted 8a/5.13b routes in 2003 (at age ten). In 2004 (at age eleven) Adam climbed several 8a+/5.13c onsight[1] and 8c/5.14b redpoints. In 2005 (at age twelve) he onsighted 8b/5.13d routes. Then he became famous on climbing magazines and in 2006 he managed to climb his first 9a/5.14d Martin Krpan at Misja Pec.

In 2007 and 2008 he won the IFSC Youth World Championship category Youth B.

In 2009, at age sixteen, he could compete in the IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup: in his debut year he won the World Cup beating Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma.[2]

In 2010 he won also the IFSC Bouldering World Cup beating Austrian Kilian Fischhuber and Japanese Tsukuru Hori, and becoming the first athlete in history to win both the disciplines (lead and bouldering).[3]

In March 2011 during a trip in Spain Adam has become the second person ever to have onsighted 8c+/5.14c after Patxi Usobiaga. In a couple of days he onsighted five 8c+/5.14c routes (two of which in the same day).[4]

His resume is impressive: 938 routes between 8a/5.13b and 9b/5.15b (433 onsights).[5]

[edit] Medals

Adam at the IFSC Boulder Worldcup Vienna 2010

[edit] IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup

2009 2010
1 3

[edit] IFSC Bouldering World Cup

2009 2010
15 1

[edit] IFSC Lead Climbing World Championship

2009 2011
2 3

[edit] IFSC Bouldering World Championship

2011
2

[edit] IFSC Lead Climbing European Championship

2010
2

[edit] IFSC Bouldering European Championship

2010
2

[edit] Rock Master

2009 2010 2011
3 3 1

[edit] Single-pitch routes

  • 5 9b/5.15b routes
  • 10 9a+/5.15a routes
  • 38 9a/5.14d routes
  • 86 8c+/5.14c routes (7 onsight)
  • 103 8c/5.14b routes (20 onsight)
  • 284 8b/5.13d and 8b+/5.14a routes (134 onsight)

[edit] Redpoint

[edit] Onsight

  • 8c+/5.14c :
    • L'Avaro - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - 13/07/11[20]
    • La Rubia - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - 13/04/11
    • Blanquita - Oliana (ESP) - 27/03/11[21]
    • Mind Control - Oliana(ESP) - 20/03/11[22]
    • Powerade - Vadiello (ESP) - 09/03/11[23]
    • Bizi Euskaraz - Etxauri (ESP) - 07/03/11[24]
    • Kidetasunaren balio erantsia - Etxauri (ESP) - 06/03/11 - Second 8c+ onsight in history after route by Patxi Usobiaga in 2007[25]
  • 8c/5.14b :
    • 5 Uve - Arco (ITA) - 27/06/11
    • Bat Route - Malham Cove (UK) - 16/05/11
    • Carbunco - Archidona (ESP) - 23/04/11
    • Kalliste - Archidona (ESP) - 23/04/11
    • Fuck the police - Etxauri (ESP) - 06/03/11
    • Dures Limites - Céüse (FRA) - 10/08/10 [26]
    • Smoke - Pierrot beach (FRA) - 05/08/10
    • Home Sweet Home - Pierrot beach (FRA) - 05/08/10
    • Guère d'usure - Claret (FRA) - 29/02/10 [27]
    • Super Samson - Claret (FRA) - 29/01/10 [28]
    • Gora Guta Gutarak - Kalymnos (GRE) - 22/05/09 [29]
    • Una Vida Nomada - Covolo (ITA) - 21/04/09 [30]
    • Nagay - Covolo (ITA) - 21/04/09 [31]
    • L'espiadimondis - Margalef (ESP) - 02/03/09
    • Los Humildes Pa Casa - Oliana (ESP) - 24/02/09
    • Métaphysique Des Tubes - Seynes (FRA) - 21/02/09
    • Absinth - Sparchen (AUT) - 16/08/08
    • Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - 07/02/08
    • Digital System - Santa Linya (ESP) - 05/02/08

[edit] Bouldering

Adam has climbed 188 boulders between 8A/V11 and 8C+/V16:

  • 2 8C+/V16 boulders
  • 6 8C/V15 boulders
  • 17 8B+/V14 boulders
  • 30 8B/V13 boulders
  • 53 8A+/V12 boulders
  • 80 8A/V11 boulders

Adam won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008,[32] 2009[33] 2010[34] and 2011.[35]

  • 8C+/V16:
    • Gioia - Varazze (ITA) - 06/12/11 - Second ascent of Christian Core's boulder (2008)[36]
    • Terranova - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 10/11/11 - First ascent, traverse[37]
  • 8C/V15 :
    • Cháron - Petrohrad / Mlýnský vrch (CZE) - 15/10/11 - First ascent[38]
    • Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (SUI) - 01/10/11 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
    • Pata ledovce - Holstejn, Mor.kras (CZE) - 06/09/11 - First ascent[39]
    • Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (ZA) - 14/08/11 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
    • From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (SUI) - 30/11/10 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005)[40]
    • Big Paw - Chironico (SUI) - 29/11/10 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)[41]

[edit] Multi-pitch routes

Karambony East Face - Tough Enough route runs in the middle
  • Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo (Madagascar) - 10/10/10 - First free ascent
  • Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (Madagascar) - 07/10/10
  • Tough Enough Original - Karambony (Madagascar) - 04/10/2010 - First free ascent[42]
  • Tough Enough - Karambony (Madagascar) - 30/09/2010 - First free ascent[43]
  • Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - 18/10/08 - First onsight ascent[44]
  • Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée di Aiglun (FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent[45]
  • WoGü - Rätikon (SUI) - 26/07/08 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlander's route (1997)[46]
  • Zub za zub - Rätikon (SUI) - 29/07/07 - First free ascent[47]
  • Silbergeier - Rätikon (SUI) - 27/07/07[48]

[edit] References

  1. ^ Adam Ondra - 11 year kid 8a+ onsight
  2. ^ IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2009
  3. ^ IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2010
  4. ^ Five 5.14c onsight
  5. ^ 8a.nu Adam Ondra All Time
  6. ^ La planta de Shiva
  7. ^ Chilam Balam
  8. ^ Shaxi Raxi
  9. ^ La Capella
  10. ^ Golpe de Estado
  11. ^ Overshadow
  12. ^ Obrint el sistema
  13. ^ L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs
  14. ^ Goldrake
  15. ^ Marina Superstar
  16. ^ Corona
  17. ^ Papichulo
  18. ^ Open Air
  19. ^ La Rambla
  20. ^ L'Avaro
  21. ^ Blanquita
  22. ^ Mind Control
  23. ^ Powerade
  24. ^ Bizi Euskaraz
  25. ^ Kidetasunaren balio erantsia
  26. ^ Dures Limites
  27. ^ Guère d'usure
  28. ^ Super Samson
  29. ^ Gora Guta Gutarak
  30. ^ Una Vida Nomada
  31. ^ Nagay
  32. ^ Results Melloblocco 2008
  33. ^ Results Melloblocco 2009
  34. ^ Results Melloblocco 2010
  35. ^ Results Melloblocco 2011
  36. ^ Gioia
  37. ^ Terranova
  38. ^ Cháron
  39. ^ Pata ledovce
  40. ^ From The Dirt Grows the Flowers
  41. ^ Big Paw
  42. ^ Tough Enough Original
  43. ^ Tough Enough
  44. ^ Hotel Supramonte
  45. ^ Ali Baba
  46. ^ WoGü
  47. ^ Zub za zub
  48. ^ Silbergeier

[edit] External links

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