Alexander Burgener (1845, Saas Fee – 8 July 1910, near the Berglihütte) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many mountains and new routes in the western Alps during the silver age of alpinism.
Albert Mummery, he made the first ascent of the Zmuttgrat on the Matterhorn on 3 September 1879, and of the Grands Charmoz (1880) and the Aiguille du Grépon in the Mont Blanc Massif (5 August 1881). With another British alpinist, Clinton Thomas Dent, he made the first ascent of the Lenzspitze (August 1870) and the Grand Dru (12 September 1878),
He was killed by an
avalanche on 8 July 1910 near the Berglihütte in the Bernese Alps. Six other climbers died in the avalanche, including Burgener's son Adolf. Another son, Alexander, lost an eye in the incident. [1 ]
First ascents [ edit ]
Grand Dru, 1878 Zmutt ridge of the
Matterhorn, 1879 Traverse of the Col du Lion, 1880
Grands Charmoz, 1880 Charpoua face of the
Aiguille Verte, 1881
Aiguille du Grépon, 1881 Frontier ridge of
Mont Maudit, 1887 Teufelsgrat of
Bibliography [ edit ]
^ Gos, Charles (1948). "The Maddened Waves of Snow". Alpine Tragedy. Trans. Malcolm Barnes. New York: Charles Scribner's Sons. pp. 270–278.
^ viz., Alexander Burgener, King of the Mountain Guides
External links [ edit ]