AllSaints

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This article is about the clothing brand. For other uses, see All Saints (disambiguation).
AllSaints - Spitalfields
Industry Fashion
Clothing
Textiles
Housewares
Genre Retail
Founded 1994 (as a menswear collection)
Headquarters Spitalfields London, United Kingdom
Area served United Kingdom
Ireland
Europe
United States
Canada
Products Men's & Women's retail fashion
Website www.AllSaints.com

AllSaints Spitalfields, also known just as AllSaints, is a British fashion retailer headquartered in Spitalfields, London, UK.[1][2][3] AllSaints now sells menswear, womenswear, footwear, and accessories in 35 department stores and 65 stand-alone stores across the UK, Europe, Canada and the United States.[4][5][6] Currently, 85% of the company is owned by Lion Capital LLP.[7][8][9]

History[edit]

Founding (1994–1998)[edit]

AllSaints was founded in 1994 by Stuart Trevor, and Kait Bolongaro, who was the original womenswear designer at All Saints, and who have since gone on to found the Bolongaro Trevor label. All Saints started as a wholesale menswear brand that sold exclusively to high-end retailers such as Harvey Nichols and Harrods.[6][8][10] The company was named after Stuart Trevor's pseudonym, "The Saint", based on his initials "ST" and updated at the 1993 Notting Hill Carnival that Stuart Trevor attended, and spent much of his time on the renowned All Saints Road, which has been at the cultural forefront for those interested in music and design since the 1960s.[11][12][13] The first stand-alone AllSaints store was opened in Foubert Place off Carnaby Street in London on All Saints Day in 1997.[14][15] The company's first womenswear collection followed the next year (1998), born directly out of the expanding menswear collection.[6][16]

Growth and expansion (1999–2011)[edit]

By mid-2004, AllSaints had expanded to 10 stores in the UK and was poised to launch its childrenswear line.[17] Between mid-2004 and the end of 2005, controversial fashion financier Kevin Stanford, co-founder of womenswear chain Karen Millen, bought out each of AllSaints partners besides Stuart Trevor, thus acquiring a majority stake in the company.[10][17][18] Finally in December 2005, Stanford bought out Trevor's stake in the company as well.[4][10] In 2006, AllSaints sold a 35% stake in the company to Icelandic investment firm, Baugur Group, with Kevin Stanford as the majority shareholder.[19][20] In late 2006, the company launched its e-commerce website.[6][21]

AllSaints Spitalfields rapidly expanded globally in 2009-10.[11][22][23] That same year the company launched its U.S.-specific e-commerce site and opened its first U.S. store in New York City.[21][22][24] Starting in 2009, AllSaints opened stores all across the United States; including New York, Boston, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Miami, Washington, D.C., Santa Monica, Seattle and Chicago.[2][5][25] By 2010, the cost of North American expansion was £43 million, almost double the original projected cost, and AllSaints began to have trouble paying suppliers.[26]

On April 4, 2013, AllSaints Spitalfields opened up its first store in Canada, at the Yorkdale Shopping Centre in Toronto, Ontario.

Acquisition by Lion Capital (2011–2012)[edit]

In April 2011, due to mismanagement by Kevin Stanford, rapid expansion, and the collapse of Icelandic investment firm Baugur Group, All Saints was £53 million in debt and on the brink of collapse.[27][28] In May 2011, citing AllSaints' international potential and online presence, Lion Capital LLP, the British private equity firm headed by Lyndon Lea, combined with Goode Partners to purchase a 76% stake in AllSaints Spitalfields for £105 million.[7][11][29][30] Lion Capital effectively saved AllSaints from collapse, which would have resulted in the loss of 3,000 jobs.[31][31][32] The firm began to take an active role in day-to-day management, and hired 8 new top executives to manage the company.[8][30]

In March 2012, Goode Partners sold its 11% stake to Lion Capital as well as another 11% stake it held with other co-investors, leaving Lion Capital with an 85% stake in AllSaints Spitalfields.[8]

Products and aesthetic[edit]

As of 2012, AllSaints Spitalfields sells menswear, womenswear, footwear, and accessories through its department store locations, stand-alone retail stores and its website.[3][33][34] Aesthetically, AllSaints is known for offering sharp edge, directional clothing with a muted palette dominated by blacks, browns, whites, and grays.[35][36][37] In reviews by fashion and style critics, AllSaints' clothes have variously been described as "British chic rock 'n' roll", a "romantically pre-aged look...that evokes the past and a post-apocalyptic future".[1][11][38] The company's retail stores are best known for the exposed brick, weathered wood and metal in their interior and the large exterior wall of antique sewing machines that often frame their entrance.[2][4]

In popular culture[edit]

AllSaints Spitalfields has had a connection to popular culture since its founding in 1994 when it was named after a famous London street (All Saints Road in Notting Hill).[11][12] Young American and British celebrities are seen and photographed wearing AllSaints clothes to events and entering or leaving AllSaints stores.[39][40][41][42]

Music[edit]

The company's strongest connection to date has been to the music industry, where they have collaborated with many established musical acts, including: U2, Stereophonics, Robbie Williams, Kelis, and Kings of Leon.[4][6][43] AllSaints also hosts underground events called "AllMusic Parties" intended to showcase emerging British musical talent.[4] In 2010, the English rapper Tinie Tempah released a single titled "Frisky" that entered the UK Singles Chart at #2 and mentioned the brand in one of the lyrics: "I think I found a winner, with no ring around her finger. Her dress from AllSaints, but I think I’ve found a sinner".[44][45] In 2013, Justin Timberlake released a single titled "Suit & Tie" featuring Jay-Z in which Jay-Z also mentioned the brand in the lyrics: "Tom Ford tuxedos for no reason. AllSaints for my angel. Alexander Wang too".[46]

In 2011, AllSaints launched a project called "Basement Sessions" that features weekly performances and interviews from both emerging and established musical acts.[22][47][48] Acts who have appeared on Basement Sessions include: Fatboy Slim, Aloe Blacc, DJ Harvey, Gary Numan, Tricky, The Naked and Famous, Kelis, Foster the People, and Alpines.[48][49]

Activism and philanthropy[edit]

In addition to music, AllSaints is also active in social causes and public service.[50] In Summer 2011, the company entered into a long-term partnership with the Not For Sale organization and launched a t-shirt line whose profits go toward combating human trafficking.[51] Later that year, AllSaints released a short documentary titled "Voices of the Cloth" intended to promote British design and manufacturing.[52][53] The company currently sponsors 8 scholarships in MSc International Fashion Marketing to the Glasgow Caledonian University, London.[6][54]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b La Ferla, Ruth, "The Romance of Jack the Ripper", New York Times, June 8, 2010.
  2. ^ a b c Smith, Adam, "The Biritsh Invade America Again", Fast Company, October 1, 2010.
  3. ^ a b Company Info. AllSaints Official Website.
  4. ^ a b c d e "AllSaints Spitalfields - Seattle", Girvin Strategic Branding Blog, November 21, 2010.
  5. ^ a b "AllSaints Spitalfields Continue Widely Acclaimed Basement Sessions", EPR, February 17, 2012.
  6. ^ a b c d e f "AllSaints Fashion – Clothing, Accessories, Jewellery & Footwear", London Fashion Review, March 10, 2011. Updated November 12, 2011.
  7. ^ a b Hawkes, Alex, "AllSaints Saved by Lion Capital", The Guardian, May 5, 2011. Amended May 9, 2011.
  8. ^ a b c d Mattioli, Dana., "PE Firm Bows Out of Fashion Shop AllSaints", Wall Street Journal Deal Journal Blog, March 22, 2012.
  9. ^ Hall, James., "AllSaints Bought by Lion Capital and Goode Partners for £105", The Telegraph. May 6, 2011.
  10. ^ a b c Weir, Laura. Stuart Trevor profile. Drapers Online. October 20, 2008.
  11. ^ a b c d e Finch, Julia. AllSaints Go Marching In. The Guardian. June 11, 2010.
  12. ^ a b Martinez, Amy. Edgy Fashion Retailer AllSaints to Take Former Coldwater Creek Space. Seattle Times. May 5, 2010.
  13. ^ All Saints Road
  14. ^ AllSaints Spitalfields Rocks Lincoln Road Mall. South Beach Magazine. December 28, 2009.
  15. ^ "Lion Capital and Goode Partners to Acquire AllSaints Spitalfields", AngelNews, May 6, 2011.
  16. ^ Waight, Emma. "What's in Store at AllSaints", clothes.org.uk. April 4, 2012.
  17. ^ a b "Stanford Buys Stake in AllSaints as its Expansion Push Continues", Retail Week, September 24, 2004.
  18. ^ Bowers, Simon. House of Fraser says Kevin Stanford 'not welcome' back in boardroom. The Guardian. April 29. 2012.
  19. ^ Ruddick, Graham, "Retail Entrepreneur Kevin Stanford in Talks to Buy AllSaints Stake", The Telegraph, February 7, 2009.
  20. ^ Bowers, Simon, "Fashion tycoon Kevin Stanford plans House of Fraser comeback", The Guardian, April 22, 2012.
  21. ^ a b AllSaints Spitalfields. drivebusiness.com.
  22. ^ a b c "AllSaints Spitalfields Sale Continues", EPR, January 19, 2012.
  23. ^ Thompson, James, "AllSaints Delivers Heavenly Profits and Sales", The Independent, April 29, 2010.
  24. ^ Fair, S. S., "The Samurai Shopper Takes a Pal", New York Times T Magazine. July 18, 2011.
  25. ^ Jones, Sandra, "Retailers Tap into iPad, Hoping Device Will Help You Buy", Chicago Tribune, February 21, 2011.
  26. ^ Craven, Neil and Greg Grundy, "REVEALED: Court papers tell of battles that pushed All Saints to the brink", This is Money, April 28, 2012.
  27. ^ Barrett, Claer, "All Saints on brink of rescue deal", Financial Times, April 26, 2011.
  28. ^ Mason, Rowena, "Fashion mogul Kevin Stanford is haunted by Ghost", The Telegraph. November 28, 2010.
  29. ^ AllSaints Rescued by Private Equity Firms. Just-Style. May 5, 2011.
  30. ^ a b Holland, Tiffany. Dixons Etail Boss Joins AllSaints Global Push. Drapers Online. June 2, 2012.
  31. ^ a b Gray, Rebecca, "Saviour rescues All Saints stores", Evening Times. May 6, 2011.
  32. ^ Chapman, Matthew, "All Saints boss quits due to 'untenable' situation", Marketing Magazine. September 27, 2011.
  33. ^ Williams, Erin. "AllSaints Spitalfields Opens its Doors in Georgetown", Washington Post The Style Blog, July 11, 2011.
  34. ^ "AllSaints Spitalfields", New York Magazine.
  35. ^ British Fashion Brand AllSaints Spitalfields Releases New Product and Direction for 2012. Houston Chronicle. February 15, 2012.
  36. ^ Chen, Grace, "AllSaints Spitalfields Rock 'n' Roll Styling", sanjose.com. December 2, 2010.
  37. ^ "AllSaints Spitalfields Editorial Review", Vibe Shopping Guide.
  38. ^ Billard, Mary, "British Invasion, Only This Time It's in Retail", New York Times, May 19, 2010.
  39. ^ Chiang, Bee-Shyuan, "Dressing Against Character", New York Times, October 14, 2011.
  40. ^ Chiang, Bee-Shyuan, "In Something Familiar with All Her Black", New York Times, December 1, 2011.
  41. ^ "Emma Watson Hearts AllSaints", LOOK Magazine, 19 September 2008.
  42. ^ "Zac's Heavenly Body is Too Hot to Handle", X17, February 12, 2010.
  43. ^ "AllSaints Announces Basement Session with the Legendary DJ Harvey", Houston Chronicle, February 28, 2012.
  44. ^ Archive Chart. UK Singles Chart. June 19, 2010.
  45. ^ "Frisky" Lyrics. elyrics.net.
  46. ^ ""Suit & Tie" lyrics", elyrics.net.
  47. ^ We Have Band Releases AllSaints Live Session. AltSounds. February 6, 2012.
  48. ^ a b Basement Sessions Page. AllSaints Official Website.
  49. ^ "Basement Sessions Channel Playlist", YouTube.
  50. ^ "AllSaints Spitalfields Launches Partnership with Not For Sale", Yahoo! News, December 1, 2011.
  51. ^ Faulkner, Ruth, "AllSaints to launch T-shirt line to support anti-human trafficking", Drapers Online, August 31, 2011.
  52. ^ Faulkner, Ruth, "AllSaints Releases UK Manufacturing Film", Drapers Online. December 12, 2011.
  53. ^ "Voices of the Cloth: A Documentary Film", YouTube. November 23, 2011.
  54. ^ "GCU London Scholarships Program", GCU London Website. Accessed July 4, 2012.