Andrzej Zawada

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Andrzej Zawada during the Mount Everest winter expedition (1980)

Andrzej Zawada, born: Maria Andrzej Zawada, (16 July 1928 in Olsztyn – 21 August 2000 in Warsaw) was a Polish Alpinist and Tatra Mountains climber, pioneer of Polish winter Himalayism. Organiser and leader in numerous high-mountains expeditions. Author of movies and photographies from expeditions, co-author of Alpinist books. Honorary member of the British Alpine Club, French Groupe de Haute Montagne and The Explorers Club.

Grandson of Tomasz Rawicz-Zawada young participant of January Uprising in 1863.

Amongst climbers he is known for his phrase, "Tell me what you did in the winter in the Tatra Mountains, and I'll tell you what you climber".



In 1959 he was a leader to a first winter crossing through the whole main ridge of Tatra Mountains, which took 19 days.

In 1971, as chief he led the Polish expedition to make the first ascent to the Khunyang Chhish (7852 m) in the Karakoram. He also reached the summit.

With Tadeusz Piotrowski he made the first winter ascent of Noshaq (7492 m) in the Hindu Kush (1973). It was the world's first winter climb above 7,000 m.

In 1977 Zawada made the first ascent of the North Face of Koh-i Mandaras (6628 m).

In 1980 Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy made the first winter ascent of Mount Everest (8848 m), the highest mountain on Earth. Zawada led the expedition. It was the first ascent in winter of a peak above 8,000 m.


  • Marcinek, Kazimierz; Zawada, Andrzej (1973). Ostatni atak na Kunyang Chhish (in Polish). Warsaw: Wydawnictwo Sport i Turystyka. OCLC 7233551. 


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