Anti-aging cream

Anti-aging creams are predominantly moisturiser based cosmeceutical skin care products marketed with the promise of making the consumer look younger by reducing visible wrinkles, expression lines, blemishes, pigmentation changes, discolourations and other environmentally (especially from the sun) related conditions of the skin. A comprehensive grading scale for anti-aging of the skin has been validated and categorizes skin aging as: laxity (sagging), rhytids (wrinkles), and the various categories of photoaging, including erythema (redness), dyspigmentation (brown discolorations), solar elastosis (yellowing), keratoses (abnormal growths), and poor texture.

Despite great demand, many such products and treatments have not been proven to give lasting or major positive effects. One study found that the best performing creams reduced wrinkles by less than 10% over 12 weeks which is not noticeable to the human eye. Another study found that cheap moisturisers were as effective as high-priced anti-wrinkle creams. However, recent studies at Manchester University showed that some ingredients have an effect.

Traditionally, anti-aging creams have been marketed towards women, but products specifically targeting men are increasingly common.

Skepticism

The belief in the benefits of anti-aging creams, along with their use, should be met with skepticism. Nearly every brand and type delivers information about the product being “scientifically tested” or “scientifically proven” however, the results of these studies are rarely made available to consumers. This suggests that the legitimacy of these studies and subsequent results are highly questionable.

Aging is a natural process which is accompanied by normal physical, chemical, and biological changes in the body. These changes include facial and body wrinkling of the skin and this process is common to all human beings. To believe so easily that a cream could prevent and/or reduce the process of skin aging all on its own does not fit with how the world really works. If this problem had such a simple solution, individuals (including our ancestors) would likely have perfect complexions free of age-related problems. Similarly, if the solution to anti-aging was so easy for us to attain, there would be no need for hundreds or thousands of products on the commercial market which provide similar claims yet produce products with differing ingredients.

Theoretically, cosmetics promise to alter or “enhance” function, however they do not change any cellular or biochemical reactions or processes within the skin. Secondly, these products and chemicals are unregulated by any governing body, thus allowing potentially dangerous or harmful ingredients to be added with the promise of results. Before blindly accepting that certain chemicals cause anti-aging results, it is necessary to do research to determine to safety of these products.

Finally, the placebo effect is highly relevant to anti-aging creams. In most instances, individuals will report that they “saw” a difference (when in actual fact there may or may not have been a change) simply because they merely want to see a result. Similarly, reports of positive anti-aging results are often testimonials or self-reports, both of which have little to no scientific credibility.

Ingredients

As well as more conventional moisturising ingredients, anti-aging creams usually contain anti-aging ingredients such as:

• Retinol (for instance, in the form of retinyl palmitate). In various formulations it has been shown to reduce fine lines and pores.
• Epidermal Growth Factor, made of 53 amino acids to stimulate cell renewal and Collagen production in the skin and strengthen elasticity and structure. The discovery of Epidermal Growth Factor won Dr. Stanley Cohen a Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine in 1986. In various research Epidermal Growth Factor has been shown to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and sagging. It also has healing (wounds and burns) and anti-inflammatory properties when applied to skin.
• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids or other chemical peels. These help to dissolve the intracellular "glue" that holds the dead cells together on the skin. The use of this type of product on a daily basis gradually enhances the exfoliation of the epidermis. This exposes newer skin cells and can help improve appearance. AHAs may irritate some skin, causing redness and flaking.
• Peptides, such as Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3), Matryxil, and copper peptides.
• Coenzyme Q10
• Anti-oxidants are substances that may protect cells from the damage caused by unstable molecules known as free radicals.
• Sunscreens. A high level of UVA protection is recommended as UVA radiation is associated with aging effects such as wrinkles.
• Vitamin C. Supposedly one of the most effective and commonly included ingredient in wrinkle creams, also known to help the healing process.

The effects of these ingredients depends on their concentration and mode of application. Many skin care companies recommend using a treatment programme which may combine these ingredients. For example, AHAs can make the skin more vulnerable to damage from the sun, so the increased use of sunscreens is often recommended.

Alternative approaches

Traditional moisturisers or sunscreens may provide many of the same benefits as some anti-aging creams.

Mechanical exfoliation is an alternative to chemical peels using ingredients such as crushed apricot kernals, salt, sponges or brushes.

Advertising sometimes presents anti-aging creams as an alternative to plastic surgery and botox injections, which may be more costly and invasive treatments.

See also

• Aging
• Skin
• Wrinkles
• Cosmeceuticals