Baltistan

Baltistan بلتستان བལ་ཏི་སྟྰན
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Baltistan بلتستان བལ་ཏི་སྟྰན
Coordinates: 35°18′N 75°37′E
Country	Pakistan
Region	Gilgit-Baltistan
Division	Baltistan Division
District	Skardu, Ghanche, Shigar and Kharmang
Established	1st November 1947
Government
• Chief Minister	Syed Mehdi Shah
Area
• Total	72,000 km2 (28,000 sq mi)
Elevation	1,500 m (4,900 ft)
Population (2002)date=June 2011
• Total	322,000
Time zone	PST (UTC+5)
Postal code	15100
Main languages	Urdu (National & Official) Balti Tibetan
Website	www.visitgilgitbaltistan.gov.pk

Baltistan (Urdu:بلتستان, Balti: བལ་ཏི་སྟྰན, also known as Baltiyul བལ་ཏི་ཡུལ་།), is a region, the majority of which is in northern Pakistan which forms Gilgit–Baltistan, bordering the Xinjiang Autonomous Region of China and Ladakh in India. It is situated in the Karakoram mountains just to the south of K2, the world's second highest mountain. It is an extremely mountainous region, with an average altitude of over 3,350 m (11,000 ft). It is inhabited principally by the Balti people of Tibetan descent.

Baltistan consisted of small independent valley states that were connected to each other through blood relationships of the rulers, called rajas, trade, common beliefs and strong cultural and language bonds. These states were subjugated by force by the Dogra rulers of Kashmir in the nineteenth century. In 1947 when India and Pakistan gained independence, Baltistan was still part of Kashmir. The people of Baltistan being predominantly Muslims revolted against the Dogra rulers and after a struggle lasting a year became independent. Along with Gilgit, it is now administered by Pakistan as the region of Gilgit–Baltistan (formerly Northern Areas). Its links with Kashmir as a subjugated people today continue to be an impediment in granting its population citizenship of Pakistan. The Kargil district of this region is located in the north of Jammu and Kashmir, while the districts of Skardu and Ganche, whose main town is Skardu, are located in the Gilgit–Baltistan region. The region has the highest peaks of the Karakoram, including K2.

Baltistan consists of four districts, Skardu, Gangche, Shigar and Kharmang. It is made of five regions: Skardu, Shigar, Khaplu, Rondu and Chorbat. Some areas of Baltistan are currently administered by India as well, as part of the Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir. The vast majority of the population adheres to Islam. The Skardu district has majority Shia community around 90%, while the Gangche district has majority of Noorbakhsh community around 85%.

Geography

baltistan as depicted in A History of Western Tibet by August Hermann Francke, 1907

Skardu Capital of baltistan

Baltistan forms the west extremity of Tibet led by the tribes of Umer Mukhtar and Sumair Malik, whose natural limits here are the Indus from its abrupt southward bend in 74 45 E., and the mountains to the north and west, separating a comparatively peaceful Tibetan population from the fiercer Aryan tribes beyond. Muslim writers about the 16th century speak of Baltistan as Little Tibet, and of Ladakh as Great Tibet, thus ignoring the really Great Tibet altogether. The Balti call Gilgit a Tibet, and Dr Leitner says that the Chilasi call themselves But or Tibetans; but although these districts may have been overrun by the Tibetans, or have received rulers of that race, the ethnological frontier coincides with the geographical one given. Baltistan is a mass of lofty mountains, the prevailing formation being gneiss. In the north is the Baltoro Glacier, the largest out of the arctic regions, 35 miles (56 km) long, contained between two ridges whose highest peaks to the south are 25,000 ft (7,600 m) and to the north 28,265 ft (8,615 m). The Indus, as in Lower Ladakh, runs in a narrow gorge, widening for nearly 20 m. after receiving the Shyok. The capital, Skardu, a scattered collection of houses, stands here, perched on a rock 7,250 ft (2,210 m). above the sea. The house roofs are flat, occupied only in part by a second storey, the remaining space being devoted to drying apricots, the chief staple of the main valley, which supports little cultivation. But the rapid slope westwards is seen generally in the vegetation. Birch, plane, spruce and Pinus wallichiana appear; the fruits are finer, including pomegranate, pear, peach, vine and melon, and where irrigation is available, as in the North Shigar, and at the deltas of the tributary valleys, the crops are more luxuriant and varied.

On 29 August 2009 the Government of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan announced the creation of Gilgit–Baltistan, a new province-like autonomous region with Gilgit city as its capital and Skardu as the largest city.

Valley	District	Area (km²)	Population (1998) [2001 census for Kargil]	Numbers of Estate	Headquarters
Khaplu	Ghanche	9,400	88,366	56	Khaplu
Skardu	Skardu	18,000	219,209	40	Skardu
Shigar	Shigar District	_	_	53	Askole
Kharmang	Kharmang	_	_	43	Tolti
Roundu	Skardu	_	_	23
Galtari	Skardu	_	_	10
Purig	Kargil district	14,086 km2	143,388	9	Kargil

History

1780 map of Northern India in wahich baltistan has showed as part of Tibet while the skardu city has written as Eskerdou.

Baltistan was known as Little Tibet in olden Days and in course of time this name was extended to include the area of ladakh as well. Later on, in order to differentiate it from ladakh ,Baltistan was called little Tibet Where as Ladakh was known as Great Tibet .But locally Ladakh and Baltistan were Known as Maryul (red country) and Baltistan were known as Balti Yul.

Origion of Baltis and Baltistan

“

Tibetan Khampa and Dard tribes came to Baltistan (called Baltiyul by locals) prior to civilization, and these groups eventually settled down, creating the Balti people. It was believed that the Balti people came under the Sphere of influence from the kingdom of Zhang Zhung.Baltistan came under the control of the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century. Under Tibetan cultural influence, the Bon and Animist Baltis began to adopt Tibetan Buddhism from Indian Buddhism. Religious artifacts such as the Gompas and Chortens were erected, and Lamas played an important role in the lives of the Baltis.

”

As Part of Tibetan kingdom

Baltistan came under the control of the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century. Under Tibetan cultural influence, the Bön and Animist Baltis began to adopt Tibetan Buddhism from Indian Buddhism. Religious artifacts such as the Gompas and Chörtens were erected, and Lamas played an important role in the lifes of the Baltis.With the decline of power of Central Tibet during the 11th century, the Balti people came under the control of the Shagari, Rmakpon and Namgyal royal families, and fostered a close relationship with Ladakh in the east.
A few years had not passed when the Raja of Laddakh, Jamyang Mangyal, attacked the principalities in the district of Purik (Kargil) annihilating the Skardu garrison at Kharbu and putting to sword a number of petty Muslim rulers in the Muslim principalities in Purik (Kargil), Ali Sher Khan Anchan, Sher Ghazi, Raja of Khaplu and Raja of Shigar left with a strong army by way of Marol and by passing the Laddakhi army occupied Leh, the capital of Laddakh. The Raja of Laddakh was ultimately taken prisoner. Legends show that the Balti army obsessed with success advanced as far as Purang, in the valley of Mansarwar Lake, and won the admiration of their enemies and friends. The Raja of Laddakh sued for peace and since Ali Sher Khan’s intention was not to annex Laddakh, he agreed subject to the condition that the village of Ganokh and Gagra Nullah should be ceded to Skardu and he (the Laddakhi Raja) should pay annual tribute. This tribute was paid through the Gonpa (monastery) of Lama Yuru till the Dogra conquest of Laddakh. Hashmatullah records that the Head Lama of the said Gonpa had admitted before him the payment of yearly tribute to Skardu Darbar till the Dogra conquest of Laddakh.
Ali Sher Khan Anchan also included Gilgit and Chitral into his kingdom of baltistan. It is related that Baltistan was a flourishing country during the reign of Ali Sher Khan Anchan. They valley from Khepchne to Kachura was flat and fertile and fruit trees abounded in it. The sandy desert now extending from Sundus village to the Skardu Airport was a prosperous town. skardu had hardly recovered from the shock of the death of the Anchan when it was visited by a great flood converting it into a sandy desert.

Tourism

The region of Baltistan is bestowed with some of the greatest bounties of Nature. Tourists from all over the world have a great attraction toward this region because of its beautiful valleys, plains, peaks and heritage sites.

The capital of Baltistan, Skardu welcomes the visitors with its ethereal tourist resorts, dounting plains, wonderful lakes and alpine mountains. Shangri-la, Deosai plain, Satpara Lake, Basho etc. are adorable places to visit. in the north of Skardu, Shigar valley fascinates the people by its splendid plains, hiking tracks , tempting peaks ad camping sites. other worth mentioning valleys in Baltistan region are Khaplu, Rondu, Kachura Lake and Kharmang.

Glaciers in Baltistan

The Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram, Baltistan, Northern Pakistan. At 62 kilometres (39 mi) in length, it is one of the longest alpine glaciers on earth.

Baltistan of Pakistan has a rocky wilderness of 27000 Sq. Miles (about 68000 Sq. Km) containing the biggest cluster of majestic mountains anywhere in the world and the biggest glaciers anywhere outside the polar region. The mighty Himalayas come advancing into this region from India, Tibet and Nepal and north of them spread the more localized but still majestic Karakoram range, both heading northwest while in between flows the mighty Indus river. Along the Indus are many lovely valleys along side the main river and in the path of its tributaries.The famos glaciers found in Baltistan are Baltoro Glacier, Biafo Glacier, Siachen Glacier, Trango Glacier and Godwin-Austen Glacier etc.

Mountaineering

Enormous view of Laila Peak which is located near Hushe Valley(A town of khaplu)

Baltistan is proud of having world second highest mountain k-2. Baltistan is really a mountaineer's paradise as it has more than 20 peks of over 20000 feet. The other well known peaks are masherbrum popularly known as k-1 Broad Peak, Hidden Peak, Gasherbrum 2 gasherbrum iV and chogolisa situated in Khaplu Valley.The following peaks have so far been scaled by various expedition;

Name of Peak	Photos	Height	Date of Conquest	Location
1.K-2		(28,250Ft)	31/71954	Shigar District
2. Gasherbrum I		(26,360Ft)	7/7/1956	Ghanche District
3. Broad Peak		(26,550)	9/6/1957	Ghanche District
4. Muztagh Tower		(23,800Ft)	6/8/1956	Ghanche District
5. Gasherbrum II		(26,120Ft)	4/7/1958	Ghanche District
6. Hidden Peak		(26,470Ft)	4/7/1957	Ghanche District
7. Khunyang Chhish		(25,761 Ft)	4/7/1971	Skardu District
8. Masherbrum		(25,659 ft)	4/8/1960	Ghanche District
9. Saltoro Kangri		(25,400Ft)	4/6/1962	Ghanche District
10. Chogolisa		(25,148 Ft)	4/8/1963	Ghanche District

Demographics

Baltistan has a population of about 322000 which is a blend of many different ethnic groups, predominantly Tibetans, Monpas and Dards.

Most Baltis in Skardu District and Kharmang are Shia, while in Shigar and most of the rest of Ghanche District is Noorbakshi Muslims. There are some Wahabi Muslis also.

Panorama

Panoramic view of Sheosar Lake in Skardu District.

Panoramic view from Concordia (Karakoram).

Fauna

Baltistan without any doubt can be termed as living museum for wildlife. The baltistan High altitude Deosai National Park in southern Baltistan is an especially good habitat for this predator as it has abundant prey populations.
There are two main categories of animals which are found in different parts of Baltistan.

Domesticated animals

This includes yaks, cows, bulls and cross between yak and cows viz ‘ZO’ and ZOMOS, Sheep Goats, Horses and Donkeys.

Wild animals

Wild animals of the area include Ibex, Markhor, Musk Deer, Snow leopard, Brown bear, Black bear, Jackals, Fox, Wolves, and Marmots.

Balti Childrens of Shigar Valley

Culture

Balti culture is a mixture of Iranian culture and Tibetan culture.

Balti music and art

A Balti version says that the Mughal Princess Gul Khatoon better known in Baltistan as Mindoq Gialmo (Flower Queen) brought with her musicians and artisans into Baltistan. The musicians and artisans propagated Mughal music and art under her patronage. Musical instruments such as the ‘Surnai’ , ‘Karnai’ , ‘Dhol’ , ‘Chang’ etc. found their way into Baltistan.

Dance

The classical and other dances are displayed on the occasion of Nowruz (21 March), and on the marriages of Rajas etc. These can be classified into Sword Dances, Broqchhos and Dewan or Ghazal. The following are the names of the sword dances:

1. CHHOGHO PRASUL

It commemorates a great victory by the Maqpon Rajas over their enemies. As a mark of respect the musician who plays on the drum or ‘DANG’ stands up and goes on playing on it for sometime. It is worthy of note that the Maqpon princes would sometimes dance when this tune was played.

1. GASHO – PA

This sword dance is associated with the Gasho Dynasty of Purik (Kargil) who loomed large in this region one time. It is also called ‘GHBUS – LA – KHORBA’.

1. SNEOPA OR THE MARRIAGE PROCESSION DANCE.

This dance specifically performed on the occasion of the marriages of Rajas. In it the PACHONES or twelve Wazirs who accompany the bride take part.

Architecture

Khaplu Fort of Yabgo Dynasty

The architecture of Baltistan contains Tibetan , Mughul and Iranian influences and monastic architecture reflects a deeply Buddhist approach. The Buddhist Straight painted can be seen on feature on every Fort, and khanqah of Noorbakhshi sect including the likes of Chaqchan Mosque, Amburik mosque Shigar, Khanqah e Muallah Shigar, Khaplu Fort, Shigar Fort, Skardu Fort etc. The Baltit Fort in Hunza valley was built by balti architectures.

Sports

Polo match somewhere in baltistan

Baltistan is said to be the birth centre of Polo. Because the word Polo is a Balti Tibetan word which means ball as Balti people call Football kang polo and call Volleyball laq polo. This evidence can be found in old Balti folk songs. Polo is played here even today in its original form. This royal sport is indigenous to the Karakoram Range. It was Ali Sher Khan Anchan the Maqpon ruler of Baltistan who introduced this game to other valleys upon his conquests that stretched beyond Gilgit and Chitral. Polo grounds are almost present in all villages of Baltistani people.

Popular culture references

• The region of Baltistan is the focus of Greg Mortenson's book, Three Cups of Tea.

Media

The government radio broadcaster "Radio Pakistan " (AIR) and government television station "Skardu TV station" both have stations in Khaplu that broadcast local content for all the day.
There are also a handful of private news outlets.m

• Daily k2 is a newspaper published from Skardu serving Gilgit-Baltistanin Urdu.
• Bad-e-Shimal, claims to be the largest circulated daily of Gilgit and Baltistan.
• Nawa-e-Sufia, a monthly magazine covering Baltistan's religious news of Nurbakshi sect.

See also

• Balti (food)
• Baltit Fort

References

•  This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domain: Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Ladakh and Baltistan". Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. 

External links

• Pakistan's Northern Areas dilemma
• Britannica Baltistan.