Bearded Dragon in captivity

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A Bearded Dragon may be one of several species of agamid lizards in the genus Pogona found in zoos and private collections. Pogona describes seven species found across Australia, some of which are bred and sold as pets. These captive animals are also called Beardies by those who breed or raise them.

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Bearded Dragons are popular exotic pets, most commonly Pogona vitticeps, the Inland or Central Bearded Dragon. They are a popular species among children, because of their friendly and calm nature, along with the relative ease of caring for them.^{[citation needed]} Most Bearded Dragons in captivity have broad triangular heads and flattened bodies, with adults reaching approximately 16-22 inches from head to tail. When threatened, they expand a spiny pouch under their jaw, as well as inhale air and puff up to make themselves appear larger. The pouch resembles a beard, lending the animal their name. Males have a distinct set of pre-anal pores between the back legs and have hemipenal bulges at the vent area. Females lack both the pores and bulges. The pores are easy to see by simply looking at the underside of the dragon. With the tail vertical it is easier to see the two bulges formed by the hemipenes on the males. Females do not have the two bulges or the indentation between the lumps, rather females have one small broad lump that is closer to the vent. Males and females are of comparable size, although males usually sport a larger head and a thicker tail base than the females. Mature males will turn their throat pouches black during courtship and to signal dominance,^[1] although females have also been known to do the same. Adults typically get to 350-600g in weight.^[2]

Contents 1 Diet 1.1 Poisonous/dangerous foods 2 Housing 3 Light and heat 4 Handling 5 Diseases 6 References 7 External links

[edit] Diet

Many Bearded Dragons have native habitats that are dry and sparsely vegetated, so food may often be difficult to find in the wild. As a result, Bearded Dragons are omnivorous, capable of subsisting on a wide variety of food sources. A typical diet for captive Bearded Dragons includes leafy greens and vegetables, avoiding lettuce and any other vegetable composed mostly of water, and regular meals of feeder insects, with crickets being their main insect matter, or 'morio' worms (giant mealworms), and basically any other type of worm^{[citation needed]}.

Their stomachs are large enough to accommodate large quantities of food. Young Bearded Dragons do not eat as much vegetation as their adult counterparts. As a Bearded Dragon ages it may be persuaded to eat less animal matter and more plants, maybe leveling off at around an 80% plant and 20% animal diet.^[3]

Popular feeder insects include Superworms, crickets, roaches, locusts, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, and phoenix worms^[4]. The mealworm has a fairly hard chitin and is generally low in the "meat to chitin" ratio, as well as having poor calcium/phosphorus content, making it far less nutritious than other feeder insects.^[5] Chitin is hard enough that large amounts of it may cause impaction in the Bearded Dragon's digestion system and can lead to death, especially in younger and smaller animals. Waxworms and superworms can be given as a treat, but sparingly as in most cases as they are extremely fatty, and in some cases very addictive, although they can be useful in building-up an undernourished individual. The rule of thumb on feeder insects is that the food fed to the animal must not be larger than the space between the eyes; feeding something larger could make it hard for the animal to swallow the food and can lead to the aforementioned fatal impaction.^[6]

A significant portion of the Bearded Dragon's diet consists of leafy greens. Dragons enjoy many types of readily available greens, including: collard greens, Kale(recommended only given on occasion), cabbage, spring greens, escarole, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, parsley, and carrot tops^[7]. It is also recommended that this portion of the dragon's diet be supplemented with a variety of finely diced fruits and vegetables. Feeding a mixture of these plants ensures a wider variety of nutrients, and variations in texture to aid digestion.

Other greens or veggies and fruit that a 'beardie' may eat are as follows: grapes, strawberries, raspberries, bananas, papayas, melon, apple, peach, pear, orange-fleshed squash, mango, patty pans, pumpkin, green beans, peas, corn/maize, broccoli, carrots, beetroot, nasturtium, lucerne/alfalfa, carrot tops, celery, rosemary, oregano, basil, hibiscus, pansies, carnations and rose petals.^[8]

[edit] Poisonous/dangerous foods

Insects caught in the wild are not recommended, due to the increased risk of pesticide exposure and viruses. Fireflies and all other animals with bioluminescence chemicals^[9] are fatal to Bearded Dragons.

Avocado and Rhubarb have been thought to be fatal to dragons.^{[citation needed]} Spinach contains high oxalates which bind to calcium and in large amounts can lead to metabolic bone disease. Kale and cabbage also contain oxalates, but the ability of oxalates to lower calcium absorption is relatively small and definitely does not outweigh the ability of oxalate-containing foods to contribute calcium to the meal plan. If a bearded dragon's digestive tract is healthy, and it receives adequate UV light and temperatures, it will gain significant benefits including absorption of calcium from calcium-rich food plants that also contain oxalic acid.^{[citation needed]} The Beardie can also not eat citrus fruits.

[edit] Housing

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A 20 gallon long enclosure (30"L x 12"W x 12"H) is ideal for a baby Bearded Dragon, however they will outgrow this within 3–5 months. When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures, and UVB lighting, young Bearded Dragons are capable of growing up to an inch or more per week. For an adult, you should use a 40 gallon "Breeder" (36"L x 18"W x 12"/16"H) or larger tank, as they actually provide the best floor space available. This is important, as bearded dragons are terrestrial lizards. This allows the Dragon ample space to turn around, lie down, and run to and fro as it chooses.

The Breeder style has much better floor space dimensions than similar volume tanks like the 40 gallon "Long" or standard 55 gallon which, while 12" longer than the 30g/40g/50g Breeder tanks, are much narrower in width at 12" & 13" respectively. Also an enclosure with glass at the front only lowers the visibility of the outside of the vivarium, thus preventing over-curious 'beardies' from trying to escape, helping them remain satisfied with their enclosure which in turn helps prevent snout rub.

Bearded Dragons bask most of the day, absorbing the heat they need to digest their food. It is important that there are at least one or two good basking spots in the Dragon's habitat. Rocks are preferable to logs as they hold heat better, though logs can also provide stimulation for the animal, which will use them for climbing^[3]. Any item taken from the outside must first be boiled or baked, however, to remove contaminants. Electric or battery powered heating devices such as electrically heated rocks can cause stomach burns if they malfunction, so they are not widely recommended.^[10] The habitat should also include something the dragon can hide under.

Substrate is another very important factor in keeping a healthy Dragon. Babies and juveniles are particularly at risk of impaction and are often kept on paper towels or newspaper, as they are easy to dispose of and clean up after and there is no risk of the baby ingesting substrate. Tile is a popular choice; as is nonadhesive shelf liner. Reptile carpet shouldn't be used, for the dragon's nails can get stuck in the carpet which can cut off blood circulation, and leave the dragon without nails. As the Dragon gets older it can be put on finely sifted play sand. Calcium sand is often used, but is also reported to be a cause of impaction due to 'clumping' in the gut if ingested, while play sand will pass straight through a well fed individual. Rabbit food pellets, made of alfalfa, are the recommended choice by most breeders as they are digestible and also easy to clean up. Walnut shells are another option; although they are natural, they cannot be digested and may cause impaction. Wood chips, and anything else of that sort are never to be used. They are large, with sharp edges, and can be swallowed. They are not digestible, however, and will swell and clog the gut, causing a very painful and potentially fatal impaction^[3].

[edit] Light and heat

Bearded Dragons also need proper lighting. A UVB light is needed, with two options being available, Fluorescent strip bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs. These bulbs have variable ranges of UVB output; owners must ensure proper distance from bulb to the basking spot so the lizard can properly absorb the rays. Bulbs are typically replaced every 6 months^[11]. Without adequate UVB the Dragon will develop Metabolic Bone Disease and not eat as much. A Dragon needs between 12 and 14 hours of daylight; much less or more causes problems with their circadian rhythms and makes them lethargic and sick.^[12]

[edit] Handling

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When you are handling a bearded dragon, make sure all of its body is being supported. Make sure that you are not holding it by its chest, but if you are; be careful. You may be making it harder for your bearded dragon to breathe. The most comfortable position for your bearded dragon is when it is lying down in your hand or laying on your chest. Miniature Bearded Dragons are very friendly as long as they are handled when they are young. Many owners report an almost doglike affection.

[edit] Diseases

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When provided with the proper habitat, temperatures, and UVB lighting, Bearded Dragons are hardy lizards. They are also pets who do their best to hide health problems when becoming ill (as do most reptiles). This is probably an instinctual behavior, since a sick Dragon in the wild would probably not live long. The most common diseases include:Agamid adenovirus, mites, terminal ingestion, thermal burns, calcium deficiency, impaction, hypovitaminosis A, respiratory infections, dehydration, stomatitis, internal disease, coccidia and other parasites, dystocia (egg binding), and metabolic bone disease.

[edit] References

[edit] External links

The Wikibook Animal Care has a page on the topic of Bearded Dragon

• Media related to Bearded Dragon in captivity at Wikimedia Commons
• Information related to Bearded Dragon in captivity from Wikispecies.
• bio.miami.edu/caresheet
• bearded-dragons.com/forum
• beardeddragon.org
• Bearded Dragon Care
• Online Bearded Dragon Community
• ZooReptiles' Bearded Dragon photos