Belaying
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- This article is about belaying as it relates to climbing, for the nautical term describing the act of making a line fast to a fixed object, see cleat, belaying pin, bollard, or mooring.
Belaying refers to a variety of techniques used in climbing to exert friction on a climbing rope so that a falling climber does not fall very far. The friction is typically applied by a companion at the other end of the rope who watches the climber at all times and is ready to jam the rope as soon as he sees the climber fall.
In a typical layout, one end of the rope is tied rigidly to the climber. The rope then passes through a metal loop fixed into the rock and runs down to a second person called the belayer who stays at the bottom watching the climber. The belayer wears a harness to which a specially shaped ring called a belay device is attached. The rope is passed back and forth and through the belay device but its precise position can be altered, with very little effort, in such a way that in one position it allows the rope to run freely, while in another it locks up completely. Normally the belayer allows the climber to climb, drawing up more and more rope which the belayer allows to pass through his belay device.
Suppose the climber has climbed three feet higher than the metal loop fixed into the rock, and then falls. His rope will allow him to fall the three feet to the metal loop, and another three feet below that. If he falls any further, rope will start to be pulled upwards through the metal loop from the belayer below. But the belayer (if he is keeping watch) will have seen this and will lock the rope in the belay device so that no more rope can be drawn up to the metal loop. As a result, the climber's fall is arrested and he is left suspended, but safe, somewhere below the metal loop fixed into the rock.
An elastic rope is used so that the climber is not brought to a sudden jarring stop which could cause severe injury.
As the climber continues his ascent, he clips his rope into higher and higher metal loops fixed into the rock, so that in the event of a fall he will not fall further than the "unclipped" length of rope will allow.
While the task of belaying is typically assigned to a companion who stays at the bottom, self-belaying is also possible as an advanced technical climbing technique.
The term belay is also used to mean the place where the belayer is anchored; this would typically be a ledge, but may instead be a hanging belay, where the belayer is suspended from anchors in the rock.
The person climbing is said to be on belay when one of these belaying methods is being used. Belaying is a critical part of the climbing system. By using a correct belaying method, the belayer can hold the entire weight of the climber by using relatively little force, and can easily arrest even a long fall. By using a mixture of belaying angle and hand-grip on the rope, a climber can be lowered gently by the belayer to a safe point where climbing can be resumed.
Control of the rope is achieved through applying friction, which allows control of the speed at which the rope slides past the belayer. This friction is generally achieved by use some type of belay device which forces the rope through tight bends and against friction-producing surfaces. Usually either one thick rope (about 11mm) or two thinner ropes (about 9mm) in parallel are used; both systems have their advantages in different situations.
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[edit] Belayer responsibilities
As the climber moves on the climb, the belayer must remove the slack from the rope by paying out or pulling in excess rope. If the climber falls, then they will free-fall the distance of the slack or unprotected rope before friction applied by the belayer will start to slow their descent. It is extremely important for the belayer to concentrate on the climber's situation, as their role is crucial for the climber's safety.
[edit] Communication
Communication is also extremely important in belaying.
Climbers should wait for a verbal confirmation from the belayer that they are ready to begin. Usually the climber will ask "On Belay?" or "Belay?" and wait for the belayer to reply "Belay On". Once ready, the climber then follows with a "Climb Ready" or "Climbing". This is usually acknowledged by the belayer saying "Climb On."
During the climb, the climber may ask the belayer for "Slack", "Tension", warn of a "Rock!" or that they are about to be "Falling!".
At the top of the climb, the climber may elect to climb back down, be lowered down, walk back down, or set up a new belay point for another pitch or set up a new line to rappel down from. Whatever they choose to do, it must be made clear to the belayer. When the climber is in a safe position independent of the belay they will call "Off belay".
Silent belay communication is possible via tugging the rope. Though it is much more difficult, it may be necessary in storm weather. Some people use walkie talkies in areas where communication is limited.
[edit] Anchoring
When belaying for a partner who is significantly heavier, it is advisable for the belayer to create an anchor point for him- or herself before allowing the climber to lead a route. This will not prevent a fall but will prevent the falling climber from counter-balancing the belayer during a fall and causing a "take off" where the belayer is launched into the air or towards the rock.
To set up the anchor, the belayer should insert a relevant piece of protection (i.e. a nut or sling) into a crack below his or her body or around a nearby tree. The anchor will arrest any upward force produced during a fall, thus preventing the belayer from "taking off".
Unlike belays set up at the top of a climb, it is not usually necessary for belayers at the bottom to have more than one point of protection as long as the single piece is sturdy and safe - "bomb proof", as it were.
[edit] Belay methods
Climbers now almost exclusively use a Belay Device to achieve controllable rope friction. Before the invention of these devices, climbers used other belay methods, which are still useful in emergencies.
[edit] Belay devices
A belay device is a piece of climbing equipment that improves belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. Belay devices are designed to allow a weak person to easily arrest a climber's fall with maximum control, while avoiding twisting, heating or severely bending the rope.
[edit] Munter hitch
A munter hitch is a method of belaying which creates a friction brake by tying a special knot around an appropriate carabiner. This type of belay, however, causes the rope to become twisted. It can also be used on double ropes, simply tie the munter hitch with the two ropes as if they were one.
[edit] Hip belay
Historically, belaying in climbing meant simply that the belayer would take a wrap of rope around his or her waist; friction between rope and the belayer's body was used to arrest a fall. This technique, known as the hip belay, is still sometimes used by climbers needing to move quickly on low-angle terrain, but on vertical rock it is no longer used as it is less reliable and more apt to injure the belayer stopping a long fall.
[edit] See also
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