Big wave surfing

Surfer at Mavericks, one of the world's premier big wave surfing locations. Surfer:Andrew Davis.

Big wave surfing is a discipline within surfing in which experienced surfers paddle into or are towed onto waves which are at least 20 feet (6.2 m) high, on surf boards known as "guns" or "rhino chasers". Sizes of the board needed to successfully surf these waves vary by the size of the wave as well as the technique the surfer uses to reach the wave. A larger, longer board allows a rider to paddle fast enough to catch the wave and has the advantage of being more stable, but it also limits maneuverability and surfing speed.

In 1992, big wave surfers such as Laird Hamilton and Darrick Doerner introduced a cross over sport called tow in surfing. While many riders still participate in both sports, they remain very distinct activities. This type of surfing involves being towed in to massive waves by jet ski, allowing for the speed needed to successfully ride. Tow in surfing also revolutionized board size, allowing surfers to trade in their unwieldy 12 ft. boards in favor of light, 7 ft boards that allowed for more speed and easier maneuverability in waves over 30 ft. By the end of the 1990s, tow in surfing allowed surfers to ride waves exceeding 50 ft.

Hazards of big wave surfing

In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet (6.2 m to 15.5 m) below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. Surfers may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20–50 feet can be strong enough to rupture one's eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or the ocean floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death.^{[citation needed]}

One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held underwater by two or more consecutive waves. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult and surfers must be prepared to cope with these situations.^{[citation needed]}

A major issue argued between big wave surfers is the necessity of the leash on the surfboard. In many instances, the leash can do more harm than good to a surfer, catching and holding them underwater and diminishing their opportunities to fight towards the surface. Other surfers, however, depend on the leash. Now, tow in surfboards use foot holds (like those found on snowboards) rather than leashes to provide some security to the surfer.^{[citation needed]}

These hazards have killed several big-wave surfers. Some of the most notable are Mark Foo, who died surfing Mavericks on December 23, 1994; Donnie Solomon, who died exactly a year later at Waimea Bay; Todd Chesser who died at Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu on February 14, 1997; Peter Davi who died at Ghost Trees on December 4, 2007; and Sion Milosky who died surfing Mavericks on March 16, 2011.

Paddle In Surfing

On 4 January 2012, Greg Long, Ian Walsh, Kohl Christensen, Jeff Rowley, Dave Wassel, Shane Dorian, Mark Healey, Carlos Burle, Nate Fletcher, Garrett McNamara, Kai Barger, North Shore locals and other of the best big wave surfers in the world invaded the Hawaiian Islands for a historic day of surfing. Paddle in surfing is the new frontier and history was made at Jaws Peahi where surfers must survive and catch the wave without the use of a jet ski.Jeff Rowley made Australian history by being the first Australian to paddle into a 50 foot plus (15 metre) wave at Jaws Peahi, Hawaii, achieving his 'Charge for Charity' mission set for 2011, to raise money for Breast Cancer Australia.

Notable big wave surfing spots

• CapoMannu, Sardegna
• Shipstern Bluff, Tasmania, Australia, One of the most dangerous waves in the world
• Cowaramup Bombora, Gracetown, Western Australia, Australia (AKA "Cow Bombie")
• Cyclops, Western Australia, Australia
• Waimea Bay, Hawaii
• Mavericks, California
• Ghost Trees, California
• Nelscott Reef, Lincoln City, Oregon, USA
• Teahupoo, Tahiti
• Peahi, aka, Jaws, Hawaii
• Hout Bay, Cape Town, South Africa
• Belharra, France
• Madeira, Portugal
• Nazaré, Portugal
• The Wedge (surfing), California
• Todos Santos, Baja, Mexico
• Cortes Bank, California, 100 miles off shore
• Cribbar aka The Widowmaker, Newquay, Cornwall, England
• Mullaghmore, Ireland
• Aileens, Cliffs of Moher, Co. Clare, Ireland
• Papatowai, The Catlins, New Zealand
• El Buey, Arica, Chile
• Pico Alto, Punta Hermosa. Lima, Peru.

Noted big wave surfers

• Laird Hamilton
• Eddie Aikau
• Ken Bradshaw
• Jeff Clark
• Shane Dorian
• Mark Foo
• Greg Noll
• Buzzy Trent
• Ross Clarke-Jones
• Mike Parsons
• Bob Pike
• Grant Baker
• Dave Kalama
• Malik Joyeux
• Greg Long
• Koby Abberton
• Maya Gabeira
• Jeff Rowley
• Mark Visser

Big wave surfing movies

• Waveriders (2008)
• Riding Giants (2004)
• In God's Hands (1998, fiction)
• Step Into Liquid (2003)
• Billabong Odyssey [3](2004)
• Biggest Wednesday: Condition Black [4] (2000)
• Point Break [5](1991)

See also

• Diving hazards and precautions

References

• Warshaw, Matt. Mavericks: the story of big-wave surfing, Chronicle Books, ISBN 0-8118-2652-X
• Warshaw, Matt. "The Encyclopedia of Surfing." (2003).

External links

• Wave Warrior (pbs.org)