Black tie

This article is about the dress code. For the country rock band, see Black Tie (band).

Men's black tie dress (double-breasted jacket)

Black tie is a dress code for evening events and social functions. For a man, the main component is a black jacket with contrasting lapels, known as a dinner jacket (in the Commonwealth) or tuxedo (mainly in the United States), and a black tie. Women's dress for black tie occasions can vary to a much greater extent, ranging from a cocktail dress that is at or below the knee to a long evening gown, determined by current fashion, local custom, and the occasion's time.

History

When the dinner jacket (tuxedo in the US) first came into fashion in the Victorian era it was used as a less formal alternative for the tailcoat which men of the upper classes wore every evening. Thus it was worn with the standard accompaniments for the evening tailcoat at the time: matching trousers, white or black waistcoat, white bow tie, white wing-collar formal shirt and black formal shoes. Lapels were often faced or edged in silk or satin in varying widths. Dinner jackets were considered from the first less formal than full dress (cutaway) and etiquette guides declared it inappropriate for wear in mixed company.

During the Edwardian era the practice of wearing a black waistcoat and black bow tie with a tuxedo became the convention, establishing the basis of the current black tie and white tie dress codes. The tuxedo was also increasingly accepted at informal evening occasions such as warm-weather gatherings or intimate dinners with friends.

After World War I the tuxedo became de facto evening wear, taking on the status of "semi-formal" in the United States by the 1940s, while the evening tailcoat was limited to extremely formal or ceremonial occasions. During this interwar period double-breasted jackets, turndown-collar shirts and cummerbunds became popular for black-tie evenings as did white and colored jackets in warm-weather. Formal and semi-formal attire for rent became popular.

Following World War II black tie became special occasion attire rather than standard evening wear. In the 1950s colored and patterned jackets, cummerbunds and bow ties and narrow lapels became very popular; the 1960s and 70s saw the color palette move from muted to bright day-glow and pastel, as well as ruffled-placket shirts as lapels got wider and piping was revived. The 1980s and '90s saw a return to nostalgic styles, with black jackets and trousers again becoming nearly universal. In the first decade of the 21st century, midnight blue once again became popular, lapel facings were sometimes reduced to wide edging and long ties were often substituted for the iconic bow-tie. Black or colored shirts were more frequently worn.

The elements of black tie

Unlike white tie, which is very strictly regulated, black-tie ensembles can display more variation. In brief, the traditional components for men are:

• A jacket with silk facings (usually grosgrain or satin) on a shawl collar, peaked lapel or notched lapel. Many current fashion stylists and writers see notched lapels as less formal although they (like peaked and shawl) have been used since the first evolution of the garment.
• Trousers with a single silk or satin braid covering the outer seams
• A black cummerbund or a low-cut waistcoat
• A white dress shirt (a marcella or pleated front is traditional), French cuffs and cufflinks, and a turn-down or detachable wing collar
• A black silk bow tie matching the lapel facings
• Shirt studs and cufflinks. Studs are often dispensed with today.
• Black dress socks, usually of silk or fine wool
• Black shoes—traditionally patent leather court shoes (pumps); often now often highly polished or patent leather Oxfords instead.

Jacket

The typical black-tie jacket is single-breasted, and black or midnight blue; usually of polyester, wool or a wool–mohair blend, although other materials, especially silk, are seen. Double breasted models are less common, but considered equally appropriate. Dinner jackets were commonly ventless before WW I, but today come ventless, with side vents, or with center vents. The lapels are usually faced with silk in either a grosgrain or a satin weave.

Emily Post, a resident of Tuxedo Park, New York, stated in 1909 that "[Tuxedos] can have lapels or be shawl-shaped, in either case they are to be have facings of silk, satin or grosgrain." and later republished this statement in her 1922 book "Etiquette", adding that only single-breasted jackets are appropriately called "Tuxedos". The shape of the formal or semi-formal lapel is not specified by Emily Post so no lapel fashion is excluded. There is a fashion movement suggesting that a man's appearance when wearing the wider and higher peak lapel is superior to the narrower notch lapel.

White dinner jackets are often worn in warm climates. They are usually ivory in color rather than pure white, and usually have self-faced lapels (i.e., made of the same fabric as the jacket) rather than silk-faced lapels. They are generally worn with the same types of shirts and accessories as black dinner jackets, though the turndown collar and cummerbund are more commonly seen than are the wing collar or waistcoat. Similarly, the shawl lapel is more common in white dinner jackets. In the UK, the 20th Century etiquette was that white dinner jackets are never worn, even on the hottest day of summer, but are reserved for wear abroad. SToday, white dinner jackets are frequently seen at weddings, formal beach events, and high-school proms, in the U.S. and at some concerts (famously for instance the Last night of the proms) in the UK. In tropical climates, such as in Imperial Burma, desert fawn was historically used as the less formal color.

It is generally considered inappropriate for a man to remove his jacket during a formal social event, but when hot weather and humidity dictate, the ranking man (of the royal family, the guest of honor) may give men permission by noticeably taking off his jacket. In anticipated hot weather Red Sea rig is specified in the invitation, although this dress is esoteric in civilian circles, and is particular to certain expatriate communities.

Trousers

Black tie trousers traditionally have no cuffs (turn-ups in British English) or belt loops. The outer seams are usually decorated with a single silk braid or (less traditionally) a material that matches the lapel facing. Customarily, braces (suspenders) hold up the trousers; they are hidden by the waistcoat (if worn) or by the coat. Prior to the 1930s evening trousers did not feature a pleated front.

Waistcoat or cummerbund

A waistcoat (vest in American) or cummerbund can be worn when wearing a single-breasted coat. However, according to Debretts, "cummerbands or low cut black evening waistcoats are rarely worn nowadays". Waistcoasts come in the 'V' or rarer 'U' shape, in backless or fully backed versions, double or single breasted, with or without lapels. Single breasted styles typically have three buttons, and double breasted ones three or four rows. Before World War II, while black tie was still gaining acceptance, men would wear a white waistcoat, along with other details now associated primarily with white tie, such as stiff fronted shirts.

The cummerbund, derived from military dress uniform in British India, is worn with its pleats facing up, and is normally of the same cloth as the bow tie and lapels. Maroon, a color commonly worn to accompany black tie, is often used for the cummerbund in less formal or summer situations (though it should be noted that this is not to match the bow tie, which in the current era is invariably black). A cummerbund is never worn with a double breasted jacket, and a waistcoat now very rarely. Since this style of jacket is never unbuttoned, the waist of the trousers is never exposed, and therefore does not need to be covered, though before World War II an edge of waistcoat was often shown between the jacket and shirt.

Recently, and particularly in the U.S., it has become more common for men to remove their jackets at less formal events such as weddings and proms. Because of this, full-back waistcoats have become more common; unlike the traditional waistcoat, these are often high, single breasted, and with the full five or six buttons of a daytime waistcoat.

Shirt

A modern attached wing collar (of the half-collar shape, with longer wings than a typical attached wing collar) and pre-tied bow tie

The shirt is conventionally white or off-white (cotton or linen) with a turned-down collar. Its front is traditionally marcella but can be pleated, plain, or more rarely a stiff front (as with white tie).

Before World War II, stiff shirts with winged detachable collars were common, just as they were worn with white tie. However, such shirts are no longer common, and an imitation of this type, a semi-stiff shirt with an attached wing collar, has become very common, particularly in the United States and Australia, although traditionalists reject the use of these new attached wing collars and argue that a shirt with a classic turned-down collar (as is found on a normal shirt) has become de rigueur.

The original and most formal version of the dress shirt fastens with matching shirt studs and cufflinks. One can also wear a buttoned shirt with a fly-front placket. Soft shirts typically have French cuffs, while stiff shirts (as in white tie) traditionally have single cuffs. Studs and links are most commonly in silver or gold settings, featuring onyx or mother-of-pearl; various geometrical shapes are worn, e.g., circles (most common for studs), octagons, or rectangles (most common for links). Formal links (double links) have two faces connected by a rod or chain. There has been no consistent fashion preference for gold or silver, but mother-of-pearl has usually been reserved for white tie.

Footwear

The most formal and traditional shoes are patent leather opera pumps (court shoes) decorated with grosgrain bows. The more popular and less formal alternative currently is the black lace-up Oxford shoe, in patent leather or calfskin, with a rounded plain toe. Generally considered too informal for black tie are shoes with open lacing, such as the Derby shoe (Blüchers in the U.S.). Notable alternatives include the black button boot (primarily of only historical interest) and the monogrammed Albert slipper to be worn only at home.

Hosiery would traditionally consist of black socks made from fine wool or silk are more commonly worn.

Prince Philip wearing black tie with decorations

Accessories

Most etiquette and fashion guides of the current decade recommend keeping color touches and favoring a single color, usually dark; muted reds, such as maroon, are a traditional choice.

Handkerchief: A handkerchief in linen (traditional), silk, or cotton is usually worn in the breast pocket.

Boutonnière: A flower may be worn. Red and white carnation, blue cornflower, and rosebud have all been popular at times. In France, the boutonnière is usually a gardenia, and boutonnières and handkerchiefs are not generally worn simultaneously.

Outerwear: Black-tie events do not involve outerware, and coats and gloves are no longer considered part of the dress code. However, etiquette for what to wear in public in transit to and from black tie occasions was stiffer in earlier eras and remain an option: Matching overcoats are usually black, charcoal, or dark blue, and traditionally of the Chesterfield style. A guard's coat was also once popular, and a lighter topcoat can be worn in summer. Historically, an Inverness coat was also worn. Until the mid-20th century, gloves and scarves were always worn, and are still occasionally seen in gray leather and white silk, respectively. White kid gloves have never been standard with black tie, remaining exclusive to white tie dress.

Hat: The 20th century standard hat for black tie was a black (or midnight blue) Homburg in winter, or straw hats in spring and summer, although fedora's were also used. Top hats were originally worn with black-tie, but had been reserved to white tie and morning dress from WW I. Black-tie dress does not require a hat today.

Timepiece: Traditionally visible timepieces were not worn with formal evening dress, because timekeeping was not supposed to be considered a priority. Today, watches are common, although sports styles are frowned upon.

Decorations and orders: Military, civil, and organizational decorations are usually worn only to full dress events, generally of formal governmental or diplomatic significance. Miniature orders and awards are typically worn on the left breast or left lapel of the jacket, and neck badges, breast stars, and sashes are worn according to country-specific or organizational regulations. Unlike in white tie, where decorations are always permitted, the dress code will usually give some indication when decorations are to be worn with black tie.

Black-tie social occasions

Black tie is worn to private and public dinners, dances, and parties. At the more formal end of the social spectrum (classified as semi-formal dress), it has to a large extent replaced white tie, which was once standard evening dress but is now usually reserved for only extremely formal occasions. Black tie is traditionally worn only after six o'clock in the evening, or after sundown during winter months. Black tie's daytime equivalent is the stroller.

Black tie at weddings

Black tie worn at a wedding

While black tie is often viewed in the United States as a highly formal and traditional choice for a groom at a day wedding, such usage is only a few decades old. Before the upheaval in men's clothing during the late 1960s and early 1970s, grooms mostly wore either day formalwear or a business suit. Etiquette and clothing experts continue to condemn the wearing of black tie before the evening. Before the late 1930s, black tie was even discouraged for evening weddings, one writer arguing that "no man should ever be caught in a church in a tuxedo." Amy Vanderbilt and Emily Post would continue to argue in preference of white tie at evening weddings into the 1950s.

In England and Wales, black tie is seldom worn at weddings as morning dress or a lounge suit is normally favoured. In Scotland, a dinner jacket is also not common but highland dress is often chosen.

Corresponding forms of dress

Mess dress

Main article: Mess dress

For formal dining, armed forces officers and non-commissioned officers normally wear mess uniform equivalents to the civilian black tie and evening dress. Mess uniforms may vary according to the wearers' respective branches of the armed services, regiments, or corps, but usually include a short Eton-style coat reaching to the waist. Some include white shirts, black bow ties, and low-cut waistcoats, while others feature high collars that fasten around the neck and corresponding high-gorge waistcoats.

Red Sea Rig

Main article: Red Sea rig

In tropical areas, primarily in Western diplomatic and expatriate communities, Red Sea rig is sometimes worn, in which the jacket and waistcoat are omitted and a red cummerbund and trousers with red piping are worn instead.

Scottish Highland dress

Formal black tie Highland regalia, kilt and Prince Charlie jacket

Scottish Highland dress is often worn to black- and white-tie occasions, especially at Scottish reels and cèilidhean; the black-tie version is more common, even at white-tie occasions. Traditionally, black-tie Scots Highland dress comprises:

• Black barathea jacket with silver buttons—Regulation Doublet, Prince Charlie, Brian Boru, Braemar, Argyll, and black mess jackets are suitable. There is some contention about whether the Duke of Montrose and Sheriffmuir doublets are too formal for black-tie occasions.
• Matching or tartan waistcoat
• Kilt
• White shirt with shirt studs, French or barrel cuffs, and a turn-down collar (wing collars are reserved for white tie in most locales)
• Black bow tie or white lace jabot
• Evening dress brogues
• Full-dress kilt hose (diced or tartan) (Off-white hose are often seen but are deplored by some, such as the late David Lumsden of Cushnie)
• Silk flashes or garter ties
• Dress sporran with silver chain
• Black, silver-mounted sgian dubh
• Dirk (optional)
• Highland bonnet with crest badge (only suitable out of doors)

A Scottish waist belt should not be worn along with a waistcoat. This is for the same reason as a belt is not traditionally worn with a suit with a waistcoat. The waistcoat is traditionally to cover up the braces used to hold trousers up. Braces should also be used to hold a kilt up. People often make this mistake as they buy or hire their highland dress in a package that has everything (including a belt). The person then incorrectly assumes you have to wear it all at the same time. The waist belt is for use when wearing a kilt with a shirt (no jacket) or a plain jacket (like an Argyl or Braemar) with no waistcoat. The exception to this rule is then wearing a dirk (the dirk attaches to the waist belt), in which case the belt is worn over the waistcoat.

Traditional black-tie Lowland dress is a variant of the normal black tie that includes tartan trews rather than the usual trousers and may include a suitable kilt jacket instead of the dinner jacket. Trews are often worn in summer and warm climes.

Further reading

• Apparel Arts magazine, an account of 1930s fashion and style; some issues more relevant than others, such as those reproduced with comment at The London Lounge: Vol II. No. II and Vol I. No. III (numbering: London Lounge, not original)
• Flusser, Alan (2002). Dressing the Man: Mastering the art of Permanent Fashion. New York: HarperCollins. ISBN 0060191449. 
• The Emily Post Institute provides a breakdown of traditional categories of progressing formality in dress for men & women.