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A bootmaker clicker is the person who cuts the uppers for shoes or boots from a skin of leather or man-made material. This includes all components of the upper, including linings, facings, stiffeners, reinforcements for eyelets and zip-protectors.
The job was historically named prior to mechanisation, due to the sound of the operator's hand-knife blade rattling against the brass edge-binding (including the joints in the binding) used to protect the board patterns which were overlaid on to the skin.
In larger factories there would be many hand-clickers in close proximity to one another, hence there would be many clicks per second, so the informal description became known as clicking by clickers.
It is a skilled trade because it is the clicker's responsibility to maximise the number of uppers which can be cut from skins of leather, avoiding any thin and damaged areas, and incorporating the (unseen) 'lines' of stretch and resistance which naturally occur in leather according to the style and construction of the particular shoe. Another major criterion is the need to colour-shade the respective parts of the shoe uppers which are cut as a matched-pair, matching not only the colour variations together but also considering the surface finish and grain texture.
During the late 1960s synthetic leathers called pormerics were first introduced, and together with fabrics these also had lines of stretch and tension, being based on a traditional weaved-base having threads of warp and weft.
Following the introduction of electrical/mechanised presses, the sounds changed entirely to a heavy thump and/or crack, with the board pattern with hand-knife being replaced by a 'knife' similar to a pastry cutter, although the operator still needed to learn hand-clicking as part of the training.
Hand-clicking skills are still needed in low-volume production of bespoke, hand-made shoes or as sales-samples for factory production, although these would not warrant the expense of brass-binding used to protect the edges of the pattern from being pared-away.
Similar processes are used in preparing materials for the sole and heel of shoes, although the bottom stock materials were heavier for durability.
- The late Baden Wilson demonstrating hand-clicking, using a hand-knife around a board 3/4 vamp pattern Retrieved 2014-05-05
- Hand-forming a press-knife, using pre-sharpened strip steel from a bulk coil Retrieved 2014-05-05
- Positioning the press-knife/pattern on leather placed on the nylon cutting-board of an hydraulic press prior to swivelling the press-head and cutting via a downstroke Retrieved 2014-05-05
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