Brassiere measurement
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Brassiere measurements (also called brassiere sizes, colloquially bra sizes) are indicated according to standards set in various countries and consist of a number and one or more Latin capital letters. The number is the band size indicator and the letter is the breast cup size indicator. These standard sizing systems are especially relevant to labeling of off-the-shelf bras, and not made to measure or for bras built into other garments.
There is considerable variation in women's breast volume, shape, size and spacing. A woman's breast volume may be more at the bottom, sides or top, and this will affect the size actually needed. Bra sizes are merely a way of standardizing these factors for a "close" fit, which is not necessarily the correct fit. Bras typically have adjustable hooks which permit minor adjustments to a bra's fit.
In addition, there is considerable confusion as to bra sizes, with several different sizing systems in use around the world.
Sizing also varies considerably between garments produced by different manufacturers; even professional bra fitters often produce inconsistent results.[1][2][3][4][5] There is currently no commonly agreed formal standard that defines an inch-based bra-size system, especially in the United States. Due to these uncertainties in labeling, users are normally advised not to rely entirely on labeled bra sizes, but to verify a proper fit.[6]
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[edit] Measuring bra size
To determine the correct bra size, the following steps must be followed:
[edit] Band size
The band size is the number used by a sizing system to indicate the under bust or ribcage measure. The measure is the firm circumference directly underneath the breasts. In countries that use inches as the number of the band size, the measure is rounded to the nearest even inch. Under European dress-size standard EN 13402, introduced in 2006, the measure is made in centimetres and rounded to the nearest multiple of 5 cm. Other countries have their own conventions.
Bra fitters recommend that if a woman's measure is between sizes, that she take the next higher size.[7] This may add two inches (or five centimetres) to the band size, but would be more comfortable than a too tight fit and can be tightened using the adjustment hooks on the band and/or compensated for in the cup size.
Band size indicators vary around the world, as follows,[6] which should be only treated as a guide:
| Region/Country | Sizes | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | S | M | L | XL | XXL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL | 6XL | |||
| Under bust measure (cm) | 58-62 | 63-67 | 68-72 | 73-77 | 78-82 | 83-87 | 88-92 | 93-97 | 98-102 | 103-107 | ||
| EU standard EN 13402 | 60 | 65 | 70 | 75 | 80 | 85 | 90 | 95 | 100 | 105 | ||
| France | 80 | 85 | 90 | 95 | 100 | 105 | 110 | 115 | 120 | |||
| Italy | 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | |||
| USA and UK (in) | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | ||
| UK dress sizes (approx.) | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 | 24 | 26 | ||
| Australia and New Zealand (dress size) | 8 | 10 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 | 22 | 24 | |||
When looking for a bra in a store, it is necessary to know which sizing system is being used for each bra. Some of these discrepancies are the result of use of centimetre measures in some countries and inch measures in others. In Australia and New Zealand dress size is commonly used as an indicator of band size.
[edit] Bust measure
The bust size or bust line measure or over bust measure is the loose circumference around the chest over the fullest part of the breasts, while standing straight with arms to the side. These are measured in the same units - inches or centimetres - as the band size measure.
[edit] Cup size
The cup size is then determined as the difference between the bust size and the band size (not necessarily the under bust measure), converted into a letter using the following table:
| Cup size (UK and Australia) |
Cup size (rest of Europe, Canada and US) |
Difference between bust size and band size (inches) |
European cup size (cm) |
|---|---|---|---|
| AA | AA | Less than one inch | 10-12 cm |
| A | A | 1 inch | 12–14 cm |
| B | B | 2 inches | 14–16 cm |
| C | C | 3 inches | 16–18 cm |
| D | D | 4 inches | 18–20 cm |
| DD | E or DD | 5 inches | 20–22 cm |
| E | F or DDD | 6 inches | 22–24 cm |
| F | G | 7 inches | 24–26 cm |
| FF | H | 8 inches | 26–28 cm |
| G | I | 9 inches | 28–30 cm |
| GG | J | 10 inches | 30-32 cm |
| H | K | 11 inches | 32–34 cm |
| HH | L | 12 inches | 34–36 cm |
| J | 13 inches | 36–38 cm | |
| JJ | 14 inches | 38–40 cm | |
| K | 15 inches | 40–42 cm |
[edit] US practices
The bra labeling systems around the world, especially in the United States are at times misleading and confusing.
The bra size obtained using these sizing systems should not be regarded as definitive, particularly for larger cup sizes. In many cases it is not possible to accurately predict bra size using measurements alone because the actual volume of each cup size increases with the band size. This creates confusion in relation to cup sizes.
There is a common misconception that cup sizes are the same across all bra sizes, meaning that a B cup on a 34 is the same size as on a 36, but in fact they are relative to the size of the band, so the same cup size is bigger on a bigger band size. Bra manufacturers refer to a cup volume instead of to a cup size as defined above. For instance, the cup volume is the same for 30D, 32C, 34B, 36A, etc. It is for this reason that bra sizes have sister sizes which are related by having the same cup volume. Although it is important that a wearer has a correctly fitting bra, it is sometimes possible that two adjacent sister sizes both fit reasonably well, since the cup volume is the same, and the difference in band size can be accommodated by fastening the back on a different hook. However, fastening a bra initially on the smallest adjustment does not allow for tightening the band as the fabric begins to lose its elasticity.[8][6]
In addition, many bra manufacturers, especially in the US, will add four, five or even six inches to the band size.[9][10] There is no known reason for this practice, other than as an example of vanity sizing. The intention is that the purchaser will feel better by thinking she needs a low bra size. The add 4 to 5" practice was devised by Warners in 1935, but does not work with modern bras.[11][6]
[edit] Older European systems
The EN 13402 standard was introduced in 2006, and a range of other cup-size definitions are still in use in Europe, using either centimeters or inches to indicate the under bust girth.
One common cup size system amongst European manufacturers, in order of increasing size, is: AAA-AA-A-B-C-D-DD-E-F-FF-G-GG-H-J, although the use of double letters is not consistent between manufacturers (e.g. some may use EE rather than F, DDD rather than E, etc.). The majority of bra bands run true to size (as in, a size 36 band measures, when stretched, 36 inches). It is expected that the EN 13402 standard will eventually help resolve the current confusion surrounding cup-size codes in Europe.
[edit] Fitting issues
The most common bra size sold in the UK is 36C.[12][13] However, many studies have shown that around 80% of women are wearing the wrong size,[12][8][14] with the most common mistake being to select a bra with too large a back band and too small a cup, for example, 38C instead of 34E, or 34B instead of 30D.[12][13][8][15] Bravissimo, the large cup size specialist, estimates that the average woman should be wearing a 34DD or 34E bra. These fitting problems are exacerbated by the lack of education about bra sizing and fitting and the myths perpetrated by the media - for example the way that DD cup breasts are regarded as being significantly larger than average.
[edit] See also
- EN 13402 – European clothes sizes standard, bra sizes section
[edit] References
- ^ Which? Magazine reviews bra fitting services
- ^ BBC Radio 4 Woman's Hour - Bras
- ^ The Great Bra Fitting Fiasco
- ^ My Infamous Bra Trek
- ^ Bra fitting Services
- ^ a b c d Figleaves.com fitting room
- ^ Bra Sizes
- ^ a b c Bravissimo - The Perfect Fit
- ^ Belladonna Eyes Bra Fitting Guide
- ^ Plus Size Bras - A Consumer Information Provider
- ^ Fashion Era - Bra History
- ^ a b c iVillage - Are you wearing the right bra size?
- ^ a b Telegraph - A Weight off my shoulders
- ^ Rigby and Peller - Bra fitting
- ^ Bravissimo sizes up staff - Royal Free Hampstead
[edit] External links
- Finding the perfect fit, Bra fitting videos from Bra Stop
- Bra fitting room. How to work out your true bra size, www.figleaves.com
- Bra Fitting Guide, Belladonna Eyes
- Bras Beyond DD, Cat's Bra Resource Page
- Bra Fitting Guide, Envie Lingerie bra fitting guide
- Pregnancy Bra Fitting Guide, Envie Lingerie pregnancy bra fitting guide
