|Headquarters||Penne, Abruzzo, Italy|
|Key people||Francesco Pesci (CEO), Antonella de Simone, Antonio Bianchini (co-CEOs)|
|Revenue||€180m (2006) |
|Operating income||€15.3m EBIT (2005) |
Master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and his business partner Gaetano Savini opened their first suit shop in Rome's Via Barberini at the end of World War II. The company was named after the Italian name for the Croatian island group, the Brijuni islands.
Brioni's first fashion show was held in 1952 at the Pitti Palace, Florence. The show gave the company exposure to clients worldwide. In 1954, Brioni held a fashion show in New York City, followed by shows in eight other American cities. That year, Brioni opened new shops on both sides of the Atlantic.
Umberto Angeloni took over as Chief Executive Officer in 1990, and started an expansion plan which saw the introduction of a womenswear line, and shops opening in locations such as Mumbai, St. Petersburg, and Baku. Angeloni also arranged for Brioni suits to appear in James Bond movies from 1995. However, in 2006, the family replaced Angeloni with three joint CEOs: Antonella de Simone (descended from Fonticoli), Andrea Perrone (a descendant of Savini), and Antonio Bianchini, a specialist in finance. Francesco Pesci was nominated CEO in 2010. PPR confirmed in November 2011 the acquisition of the company for an undisclosed amount estimated between €250 and €350 million, including €100 million in debt.
In order to meet the demand of such a large clientele, Brioni opened a factory in Abruzzo, Italy, where expert tailors hand-sew jackets and trousers before adding the finishing touches by machine. Brioni also owns a shirt factory, a leather fashion house and a line of women's clothing.
Each garment requires at least 30–35 hours of work, and there are more than 5,000 different fabrics to choose from. An off-the-peg suit costs about $5,000 at the entry-level; and most custom-tailored suits range from $6,500 to $47,500.
As of February 2009, Brioni is offering a $48,000 pinstripe suit made from some of the world's rarest fabrics including the expensive wool of the vicuña, a rare South American relative of the llama. The suit's pinstripe stitching are genuine white gold.
Tailors must go through a four-year apprenticeship.
|This article is outdated. (March 2010)|
As of January 2006, Brioni owned 25 boutiques, which accounted for about 20% of sales. There were a further 13 franchised stores. Six of the boutiques are in the United States, in New York at Fifth Avenue, Beverly Hills at Rodeo Drive, San Francisco at Union Square, Miami Beach at Bal Harbour, in downtown Aspen, and in Las Vegas at the Wynn. Brioni's New York showrooms are located on 52nd Street and 57th Street in Manhattan. In March 2013, it was reported that a new boutique would open in Gold Coast Neighborhood of Chicago. In the USA, Brioni garments can be purchased at high end department stores including Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Wilkes Bashford, and Neiman Marcus.
From the beginning, Brioni suits were luxuries only afforded to the privileged few, namely Europe's wealthy aristocrats. It has been the official suit of fictional secret agent James Bond, having been worn by actors Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig. Celebrities such as Clark Gable and Cary Grant began to buy their suits from Brioni in the 1950s when working at Rome's Cinecittà studios. New York crime boss of the Gambino crime family John Gotti earned the nickname Dapper Don after his extensive wardrobe of custom Brioni suits. Brioni is a "favorite" of real estate mogul Donald Trump. Other customers include:
- Andrew W.K.
- Kirk Douglas 
- Henry Fonda 
- Clark Gable 
- Rock Hudson 
- Peter Jennings 
- Al Pacino 
- Paul McKenna 
- Anthony Quinn 
- Robert Wagner 
- John Wayne 
- James Belushi 
- John Gotti 
- Jody Self 
- Maurice Horton 
- Mark Deeter 
- Deeter's Beaters 
- Kofi Annan
- Rudolph Giuliani
- Joe Boulos
- Robert Kennedy 
- Nelson Mandela 
- Gerhard Schröder 
- Louis Litt
- George W. Bush 
- Luciano Pavarotti 
- Willie Lewis Brown, Jr. 
- Mikhail Prokhorov 
Notes and references
- Forden, Sara Gay (2007-01-31). "Brioni Targets Richest Asians, Casual Wear After Family Feud". Bloomberg.
- "Brioni". FMD. Retrieved 26 July 2013.
- "Italy's oldest tailoring firm is now challenging Savile Row with its innovative designs". Business Week. 2004-05-17. Retrieved 2008-04-07.
- "Francesco Pesci nuovo ad Brioni". BusinessPeople (in Italian). Retrieved November 10, 2011.
- Mark Scott (November 8, 2011). "PPR Acquires Italian Suit Maker Brioni". The New York Times. Retrieved November 8, 2011.
- "PPR to buy former James Bond tailor Brioni". Reuters. November 8, 2011. Retrieved November 10, 2011.
- "PPR buys Brioni: Italian suits in French hands". The Economist. November 8, 2011. Retrieved November 10, 2011.
- Gotti, John; Gravano, Salvatore (2002). The Gotti tapes: including the testimony of Salvatore "Sammy the Bull" Gravano. New York: Times Books Today. p. X. ISBN 978-0-8129-2111-3.
- Trump, Donald (2004). Trump: How to get rich and Think like a billionaire. Random House. ISBN 978-0-307-29016-8.
- "My partner went to Brioni and all I got was a £150 T-shirt". The Independent (London). 2009-08-16. Retrieved 2010-04-26.
- Boyer, G. Bruce (September/October). "A Pattern of Excellence". Cigar Aficionado.
- Obrien, Catherine (2007-09-07). "Paul McKenna I can make you rich". The Times (London). Retrieved 2010-04-26.
- "A tailor who won't let on". The Age (Melbourne). 2002-04-26.
- La Ferla, Ruth (2003-05-25). "VOWS; Judith Nathan and Rudolph W. Giuliani". The New York Times. Retrieved 2010-04-26.
- Matier, Phillip; Ross, Andrew (2004-11-14). "Casino fever grips the Golden State". The San Francisco Chronicle.
- Brown, Chip (2010-10-28). "The N.B.A.’s Oligarch and His Power Games". The New York Times.
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