Broad Peak

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Broad Peak
Faichan Kangri
ཨིྰན་ཨངརི་
7 15 BroadPeak.jpg
Broad Peak from Concordia
Elevation 8,051 m (26,414 ft)[1]
Ranked 12th
Prominence 1,701 m (5,581 ft)[1]
Listing Eight-thousander
Ultra
Location
Broad Peak is located in Tibetan Plateau
Broad Peak
Broad Peak
Location on Pakistan/China border
Location Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Xinjiang Uygur, China
Range Karakoram
Coordinates 35°48′39″N 76°34′06″E / 35.81083°N 76.56833°E / 35.81083; 76.56833Coordinates: 35°48′39″N 76°34′06″E / 35.81083°N 76.56833°E / 35.81083; 76.56833
Climbing
First ascent June 9, 1957 by an Austrian team
Easiest route snow/ice climb

Broad Peak (Urdu: بروڈ پیک‎; Chinese: 布洛阿特峰; pinyin: Bùluòātè Fēng),[2] also known as K3, is the 12th highest mountain on Earth, with an elevation of 8,051 metres (26,414 ft). The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Faichan Kangri (ཨིྰན་ཨངརི་) is not accepted among the Balti people.[3]

Geography[edit]

Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif in Baltistan on the border of Pakistan and China.[1] It is located in the Karakoram mountain range about 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from K2. It has a summit over 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi) long, thus "Broad Peak".[4]

Climbing history[edit]

The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030 m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen, high altitude porters nor base camp support.[3]

On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent of Skil Brum peak (7,360 m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style in 53 hours.[3]

Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa peak (7,654 m) on June 27, 1957.[3]

In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak and retrieved the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.[5][6]

In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna.[7]

In summer 2012, five members of "Koroška 8000" - Slovenian team (led by Gregor Lačen) summitted the mountain (without supplementary oxygen and without high altitude porters). They tracked the way in deep snow from camp 4 to the summit and opened the summit to 7 more individuals from other expeditions. They all summitted on July 31, 2012.[citation needed]

On March 5, 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Małek made the first winter ascent. Broad Peak was 12th Eight-thousander summited in winter time and 10th Eight-thousander first summitted in winter by Polish climbers.[8] During the descent, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski did not reach Camp 4 (at 7400 m) and were pronounced missing. On March 7, the head of the expedition Krzysztof Wielicki said there are "no chances at all" of finding alive 58-year-old Maciej Berbeka and 27-year-old Tomasz Kowalski.[9] On March 8 both climbers were declared dead and the expedition was ended.[10]

In July 2013, a group of five Iranian climbers attempted to ascend through a new route from the southwestern face. Three of them Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi, ascended successfully but during descent all three of them were lost and declared dead.[11][12]

Time line[edit]

  • 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.[3]
  • 1957 First ascent [13]
  • 1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolio reached the summit, establishing a new solo route now known as Route Carsolio. The summit of Broad Peak would be the ninth of his career-high of eight-thousanders.[14]
  • 2013 On March 5, first winter ascent by Polish expedition.[15]
  • 2013 July, Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan, and Mojtaba Jarahi of Iran ascended through a new route, named Route Iran.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c "Broad Peak". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2013-07-24. 
  2. ^ "Broad Peak: 12th Highest Mountain in the World". About.com. 
  3. ^ a b c d e "Broad Peak: Some background and History". Everest News. Retrieved 2014-01-26. 
  4. ^ "Broad Peak". Peakware World Mountain Encyclopedia. Retrieved 2014-01-26. 
  5. ^ „Broad Peak 2007“ Expedition in memoriam Markus Kronthaler, June to August 2007 (German)
  6. ^ "Highest-Altitude Body Recovery in History". Alpinist. 25 July 2007. Retrieved 2014-01-26. 
  7. ^ "Broad Peak update: Cristina Castagna lost on descent from C4 - no summits confirmed yet". Explorer's Web. Retrieved 2014-01-26. (subscription required (help)). 
  8. ^ "Polish mountaineers make first winter ascent of Broad Peak". thenews.pl. 5 March 2013. Retrieved 2014-01-26. 
  9. ^ "Head of expedition says no chance of finding alive 2 Polish climbers missing in Himalayas". Associated Press. 7 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-08. 
  10. ^ "Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski". Planetmountain. 8 March 2013. Retrieved 2013-03-09. 
  11. ^ "Iranian Broad Peak New Route: Complications on Descent". Explorer's Web. Retrieved 2014-01-26. (subscription required (help)). 
  12. ^ Rescue attempts for Iranian climbers http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/2013/07/broad-peak-new-route-iranian-climbers.html#u3
  13. ^ "First ascent". broadpeak.org. Retrieved 2013-07-24. 
  14. ^ http://broadpeak.org/en/broad_peak.php
  15. ^ "Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!". planetmountain.com. May 3, 2013. Retrieved 2013-07-24. 

Further reading[edit]

  • Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
  • Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
  • Kurt Diemberger, Spirits of the Air, 1994. Mountaineers Books, ISBN 0-89886-408-9
  • Hermann Buhl, Achttausand: Druber und Drunter, 1955, Munchen. Afterward by Kurt Diemberger describes the Broad Peak expedition.
  • Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelinčič, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8
  • Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5

External links[edit]