Corned beef

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Corned beef
Cooked corned beef.JPG
Alternative names
Salt beef, bully beef (if canned)
Serving temperature
Hot or cold
Main ingredients
Beef, salt
Cookbook:Corned beef  Corned beef

Corned beef is a salt-cured beef product. The term comes from the treatment of the meat with large grained rock salt, also called "corns" of salt. It features as an ingredient in many cuisines, including Irish-American, Jewish, Caribbean, Philippine cuisine and Chamorro cuisine (Mariana Islands such as Saipan and Guam).[citation needed]

Canned corned beef

It was popular during both World Wars, when fresh meat was rationed. Corned beef remains popular in the United Kingdom and is commonly used in sandwiches and corned beef hash.

History[edit]

Although the exact beginnings of corned beef are unknown, it most likely came about when people began preserving meat through salt-curing. Evidence of its legacy is apparent in numerous cultures, including Ancient Europe and the Middle East.[1] The word corn derives from Old English, and is used to describe any small hard particles or grains.[2] In the case of "corned beef", the word may refer to the coarse granular salts used to cure the beef.[1] The word corned may also refer to the corns of potassium nitrate, also known as saltpetre (and one of the main ingredients in gunpowder), which were formerly used to preserve the meat.[3][4][5]

18th-century Atlantic trade[edit]

Libby McNeill & Libby Corned Beef, 1898

Although the practice of curing beef was found locally in many cultures, the industrial production of corned beef started in the British Industrial Revolution. Irish corned beef was used and traded extensively from the 17th century to the mid 19th century for British civilian consumption and as provisions for the British naval fleets and North American armies due to its non-perishable nature.[6] The product was also traded to the French for use in Caribbean sugar plantations as sustenance for the colonists and the slave laborers.[7] The 17th-century British industrial processes for corned beef did not distinguish between different cuts of beef beyond the tough and undesirable parts such as the beef necks and shanks.[7][8] Rather, the grading was done by the weight of the cattle into "small beef", "cargo beef", and "best mess beef", the former being the worst and the latter the best.[7] Much of the undesirable portions and lower grades were traded to the French, while better parts were saved for British consumption or shipped to British colonies.[7]

Ireland produced a significant amount of the corned beef in the Atlantic trade from local cattle and salt imported from the Iberian Peninsula and southwestern France.[7] Coastal cities, such as Dublin, Belfast, and Cork, created vast beef curing and packing industries, with Cork producing half of Ireland's annual beef exports in 1668.[8] Although the production and trade of corned beef as a commodity was a source of great wealth for the colonial nations of Britain and France (who were participating in the Atlantic slave trade), in the colonies themselves the product was looked upon with disdain due to its association with poverty and slavery.[7]

Increasing corned beef production to satisfy the rising populations of the industrialised areas of Great Britain and Atlantic trade worsened the effects of the Irish Famine and the Great Potato Famine:

The Celtic grazing lands of...Ireland had been used to pasture cows for centuries. The British colonized...the Irish, transforming much of their countryside into an extended grazing land to raise cattle for a hungry consumer market at home...The British taste for beef had a devastating impact on the impoverished and disenfranchised people of...Ireland. Pushed off the best pasture land and forced to farm smaller plots of marginal land, the Irish turned to the potato, a crop that could be grown abundantly in less favorable soil. Eventually, cows took over much of Ireland, leaving the native population virtually dependent on the potato for survival.

—Jeremy Rifkin, Beyond Beef[9]

Despite being a major producer of beef, most of the people of Ireland during this period consumed little of the meat produced, in either fresh or salted form, due to its prohibitive cost. This was because most of the farms and its produce were owned by wealthy Anglo-Irish landlords and that most of the population were from families of poor tenant farmers, and that most of the corned beef was exported.

The lack of beef or corned beef in the Irish diet is especially true in Northern Ireland and areas away from the major centres for corned beef production. However, individuals living in these production centres such as Cork did consume the product to a certain extent. The majority of Irish that resided in Ireland at the time mainly consumed dairy products and meats such as pork or salt pork.[8]

19th century to present[edit]

Canned corned beef, origin Argentina, for consumption in New Zealand, 1946

Although it ceased to be an important commodity in the 19th century Atlantic trade due in part to the abolition of slavery, corned beef production and its canned form remained important as a food source during World War II. Much of the canned corned beef came from Fray Bentos in Uruguay, with over 16 million cans exported in 1943.[8] Even now, significant amounts of the global canned corned beef supply comes from South America.

Cultural associations[edit]

Corned beef on a bagel with mustard, London

In North America corned beef dishes are associated with traditional Irish cuisine. However there is considerable debate about the association of corned beef with Ireland. Mark Kurlansky, in his book Salt, states that the Irish produced a salted beef around the Middle Ages that was the "forerunner of what today is known as Irish corned beef" and in the 17th century the English named the Irish salted beef "corned beef".[10] Some say it was not until the wave of 18th century Irish immigration to the United States that much of the ethnic Irish first began to consume corned beef dishes as seen today. The popularity of corned beef compared to bacon among the immigrant Irish may have been due to corned beef being considered a luxury product in their native land, while it was cheaply and readily available in America.[8]

In Ireland today, the serving of corned beef is geared toward tourist consumption and most Irish in Ireland do not identify the ingredient as native cuisine.[11][12]

The Jewish population produced similar koshered cured beef product made from the brisket which the Irish immigrants purchased as corned beef from Jewish butchers. This may have been facilitated by the close cultural interactions and collaboration of these two diverse cultures in the USA's main 19th and 20th century immigrant port of entry, New York City.[8][12]

Regions[edit]

North America[edit]

Corned beef sandwich, Carnegie Deli, New York City

In the United States and Canada, corned beef typically comes in two forms, a cut of beef (usually brisket, but sometimes round or silverside) cured or pickled in a seasoned brine, and canned (or 'tinned,' in British English) (cooked).

Corned beef is often purchased ready to eat in delicatessens. It is the key ingredient in the grilled Reuben sandwich, consisting of corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Thousand Island or Russian dressing on rye bread.

Corned beef hash is commonly served with eggs for breakfast.

Smoking corned beef, typically with a generally similar spice mix, produces smoked meat (or "smoked beef") such as pastrami.

In both the United States and Canada, corned beef is sold in cans in minced form also in Puerto Rico and Uruguay.


Saint Patrick's Day[edit]

Corned beef and cabbage, Minnesota

In the United States and Canada, consumption of corned beef is often associated with Saint Patrick's Day.[13] Corned beef is not considered an Irish national dish, and the connection with Saint Patrick's Day specifically originates as part of Irish-American culture, and is often part of their celebrations in North America.[14]

Corned beef was used as a substitute for bacon by Irish-American immigrants in the late 19th century.[15] Corned beef and cabbage is the Irish-American variant of the Irish dish of bacon and cabbage. A similar dish is the New England boiled dinner, consisting of corned beef, cabbage, and root vegetables such as carrots, turnips, and potatoes, which is popular in New England and parts of Atlantic Canada

United Kingdom[edit]

Sandwich, as served at the Brass Rail, Selfridges

In the United Kingdom, corned beef refers to the variety made from finely minced corned beef in a small amount of gelatin (bully beef; from the French bouilli "boiled"), and is sold in distinctive, oblong cans, just as in the United States and Canada, or in slices from supermarkets. It is mainly imported from Argentina, Brazil, or Uruguay.[16] Bully beef and hardtack biscuits were the main field rations of the British Army from the Boer War to World War II.[17] It is commonly served sliced in a corned beef sandwich. Hash and hotpot, in which potatoes and corned beef are stewed together, are also made. Tinned corned beef is also used in mainland Europe.[18]

The U.S. version of corned beef is known in the UK as salt beef, and is available in cities with large Jewish communities.[19][dead link]

Ireland[edit]

Corned beef dinner, with potatoes and cabbage, Ireland

The appearance of corned beef in Irish cuisine dates to the 12th century in the poem Aislinge Meic Con Glinne or The Vision of MacConglinne.[20] Within the text, it is described as a delicacy a king uses to purge himself of the "demon of gluttony". Cattle, valued as a bartering tool, were only eaten when no longer able to provide milk or to work. The corned beef as described in this text was a rare and valued dish, given the value and position of cattle within the culture, as well as the expense of salt, and was unrelated to the corned beef eaten today.[11]

During the time of the Great Frost, a particularly cold spring drought in 1740 made it difficult to raise enough cattle for food or work. Many cattle in the south of Ireland died amid the harsh weather conditions. Cattle that survived and were suitable for food were exported to England.[citation needed]

South Asia (Pakistan)[edit]

In South Asia, especially in Pakistani cuisine, it is called Hunter's beef, with an addition of a few spices, namely, cardamom, black pepper, cinnamon, lemon juice or vinegar, and brown sugar. The beef is marinated in a mix of spices, salt and saltpetre for three, five or six days and then boiled slowly for a few hours.[citation needed]

Philippines[edit]

It is a widely known staple among Filipinos most especially in urban areas. Due to US influence and possibly a product of surplus trade during and after occupation, corned beef is considered as a favorite complement to rice at any time of the day most especially during breakfast. As such, being a perennial commodity among Filipino groceries and homes due also to its affordability, it has also become an offshoot of tapsilog, a popular modern Filipino dish, being coined as cornsilog from corned of the original name and suffix -silog which is a portmanteau of sinangag (a type of garlic fried rice) and itlog or egg in Tagalog. Nowadays, corned beef in the form of cornsilog is served (particularly during breakfast hours) even in fast food chains and other restaurants across the Philippines such as in Jollibee, Chowking and McDonald's.

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b McGee, Harold (2004). On Food and Cooking: The Science and lore of the Kitchen. Simon and Schuster. ISBN 978-0-684-80001-1 
  2. ^ "Corn,n.1". Oxford English Dictionary (Oxford University Press). 2010  "A small hard particle, a grain, as of sand or salt."
  3. ^ Norris, James F. (1921). A Textbook of Inorganic Chemistry for Colleges. New York: McGraw-Hill. p. 528. OCLC 2743191. "Potassium nitrate is used in the manufacture of gunpowder ... It is also used in curing meats; it prevents putrefaction and produces the deep red color familiar in the case of salted hams and corned beef" 
  4. ^ Theiss, Lewis Edwin (January 1911). "Every Day Foods That Injure Health". Pearson's Magazine (New York: Pearson Pub. Co.) 25: 249. "you have probably noticed how nice and red corned beef is. That's because it has in it saltpeter, the same stuff that is used in making gunpowder" 
  5. ^ Hessler, John C.; Smith, Albert L. (1902). Essentials of Chemistry. Boston: Benj. H. Sanborn & Co. p. 158. "The chief use of potassium nitrate as a preservative is in the preparation of "corned" beef" 
  6. ^ Cook, Alexander (2004). "Sailing on The Ship: Re-enactment and the Quest for Popular History". History Workshop Journal (57): 247–255. 
  7. ^ a b c d e f Mandelblatt, Bertie (2007). "A Transatlantic Commodity: Irish Salt Beef in the French Atlantic World". History Workshop Journal 63: 18–47. doi:10.1093/hwj/dbm028 
  8. ^ a b c d e f Og Gallaghery, Mairtin Mac Con; Iomaire, Padraic (2011). "Irish Corned Beef: A Culinary History". Journal of Culinary Science and Technology 9 (1) 
  9. ^ Rifkin, Jeremy (March 1, 1993). Beyond Beef: The Rise and Fall of the Cattle Culture. Plume. pp. 56, 57. ISBN 0-452-26952-0. 
  10. ^ Kurlansky, Mark (2002). Salt A world History. New York: Penguin. pp. 124–127. ISBN 0-14-200161-9. 
  11. ^ a b "Ireland: Why We Have No Corned Beef & Cabbage Recipes". European Cuisines. 
  12. ^ a b Brown, Alton (2007). "Pickled Pink". Good Eats (Food network) 10 (18) 
  13. ^ "Is corned beef and cabbage an Irish dish? No! Find out why...". European Cuisines. Retrieved August 29, 2010. 
  14. ^ Havrilesky, Heather (March 16, 2010). "St. Patrick's Day controversy: Is corned beef and cabbage Irish? - Francis Lam". Salon.com. Retrieved August 29, 2010. 
  15. ^ The History Channel - St. Patrick's Day Symbols and Traditions
  16. ^ Department of the Official Report (Hansard), House of Commons, Westminster. "House of Commons Hansard Written Answers for 25 January 2000 (pt 12)". Parliament.the-stationery-office.co.uk. Retrieved August 29, 2010. 
  17. ^ "Exhibitions : Changing the World : Fascinating Facts - Page 2". National Army Museum. Retrieved August 29, 2010. 
  18. ^ "Recettes à base de corned beef - Les recettes les mieux notées". 750g.com. Retrieved August 29, 2010. 
  19. ^ http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/English/Collections/OnlineResources/X20L/Themes/1364/1154/
  20. ^ "Aislinge Meic Con Glinne". The University College Cork Ireland. 

External links[edit]