Dartmouth from the River Dart
Dartmouth shown within Devon
|OS grid reference|
|Sovereign state||United Kingdom|
|Police||Devon and Cornwall|
|Fire||Devon and Somerset|
|EU Parliament||South West England|
Dartmouth is a town and civil parish in the English county of Devon. It is a tourist destination set on the banks of the estuary of the River Dart, which is a long narrow tidal ria that runs inland as far as Totnes. It lies within the South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and South Hams District, and has a population of 5,512.
Dartmouth was of strategic importance as a deep-water port for sailing vessels. The port was used as the sailing point for the Crusades of 1147 and 1190, and a creek close to Dartmouth Castle is supposed by some to be named for the vast fleets which assembled there (Warfleet Creek). It was a home of the Royal Navy from the reign of Edward III and was twice surprised and sacked during the Hundred Years' War, after which the mouth of the estuary was closed every night with a great chain. The narrow mouth of the Dart is protected by two fortified castles, Dartmouth Castle and Kingswear Castle. Originally Dartmouth's only wharf was Bayard's Cove, a relatively small but picturesque area protected by a fort at the southern end of the town.
- A schipman was ther, wonyng fer by weste;
- For ought I wost, he was of Dertemouthe.
Notwithstanding Dartmouth's connections with the crown and respectable society, it was a major base for privateering in medieval times. John Hawley or Hauley, a licensed privateer and sometime mayor of Dartmouth  is reputed to be a model for Chaucer's "schipman".
One of the most attractive old streets is Smith Street and is the earliest street in Dartmouth to be recorded by name (in the 13th century). Several of the houses on the street are originally late 16th century or early 17th century and likely rebuilt on the site of earlier medieval dwellings. The street name undoubtedly derives from the smiths and shipwrights who built and repaired ships here when the tidal waters reached as far as this point. Smith Street was also the site of the town pillory in medieval times.
Of particular note is St Saviour's Church constructed in 1335 and consecrated in 1372. It contains a splendid pre-Reformation oak rood screen built in 1480 and several other handsome monuments including the tomb of John Hawley (d. 1408) and his two wives, covered with a large brass plate effigy of all three. A large medieval ironwork door is decorated with two leopards of the Plantagenets and is possibly the original portal. Although it is dated "1631", this is thought to be the date of a subsequent refurbishment coincidental with major renovations of the church in the 17th century. The gallery of the church is decorated with the heraldic crests of prominent local families and is reputed to be constructed of timbers from ships captured during the defeat of the Spanish Armada, although this has not been categorically substantiated.
In 1592 the Madre de Deus, a Portuguese treasure ship captured by the English, docked at Dartmouth Harbour, towering over the other ships and the town's small houses. Nothing like it had ever been seen in England and pandemonium broke loose. Madre de Deus attracted all manner of traders, dealers, cutpurses and thieves. By the time Sir Walter Raleigh arrived to reclaim the Crown's share of the loot, a cargo estimated at half a million pounds had been reduced to £140,000. Still, ten freighters were needed to carry the treasure around the coast and up the River Thames to London.
Henry Hudson put in to Dartmouth on his return from America, and was arrested for sailing under a foreign flag. The Pilgrim Fathers put in to Dartmouth's Bayard's Cove, en route from Southampton to America. They rested a while before setting off on their journey in the Mayflower and the Speedwell on 20 August 1620. About 300 miles west of Land's End, upon realising that the Speedwell was unseaworthy, it returned to Plymouth. The Mayflower departed alone to complete the crossing to Cape Cod. Dartmouth's sister city is Dartmouth, Massachusetts.
The town contains many medieval and Elizabethan streetscapes and is a patchwork of narrow lanes and stone stairways. A significant number of the historic buildings are listed. One of the most obvious is the Butterwalk, built 1635 to 1640. Its intricately carved wooden fascia is supported on granite columns. Charles II held court in the Butterwalk whilst sheltering from storms in 1671 in a room which now forms part of Dartmouth Museum. Much of the interior survives from that time.
The Royal Castle Hotel was built in 1639 on the then new quay. The building was refronted in the 19th century, and as the new frontage is itself listed, it is not possible to see the original which lies beneath. A claimant for the oldest building is a former merchant's house in Higher Street, now a Good Beer Guide listed public house called the Cherub, built circa 1380. Agincourt House (next to the Lower Ferry) is also 14th century.
Dartmouth sent numerous ships to join the English fleet that attacked the Armada, including the Roebuck, Crescent and Hart. The Nuestra Señora del Rosario, the Spanish Armada's "payship" commanded by Admiral Pedro de Valdés, was captured along with all its crew by Sir Francis Drake. It was reportedly anchored in the River Dart for more than a year and the crew were used as labourers on the nearby Greenway Estate which was the home of Sir Humphrey Gilbert and his half-brother Sir Walter Raleigh. Greenway was subsequently the home of Dame Agatha Christie.
The remains of a fort at Gallants Bower just outside the town are some of the best preserved remains of a Civil War defensive structure. The fort was built by Royalist occupation forces in c. 1643 to the south east of the town, with a similar fort at Mount Ridley on the opposite slopes of what is now Kingswear. The Parliamentarian General Fairfax attacked from the north in 1646, taking the town and forcing the Royalists to surrender, after which Gallants Bower was demolished.
The made-up embankment which today extends the whole length of the town's riverbank is the result of 19th century land reclamation, started in earnest when the town played host to a large number of prisoners of war from the Napoleonic Wars which formed a captive workforce. Before this, what is now the town centre was almost entirely tidal mud flats.
In the latter part of World War II the town was a base for American forces and one of the departure points for Utah Beach in the D Day landings. Much of the surrounding countryside was closed to the public while it was used by US troops for practise landings and manoeuvres.
The town was an ancient borough, incorporated by Edward III, known formally as Clifton-Dartmouth-Hardness, and consisting of the three parishes of St Petrox, St Saviour and Townstall, and incorporating the hamlets of Ford, Old Mill and Norton. It was reformed under the Municipal Corporations Act 1835. The town returned two members of parliament from the 13th century until 1835, after which one MP was elected until the town was disenfranchised in 1868. It remained a municipal borough until 1974, when it was merged into the South Hams district, and became a successor parish of Dartmouth with a town council.
Dartmouth Town Council is the lowest of three tiers of local government. It consists of 16 councillors representing the two wards of Clifton and Townstall. At the second tier, Dartmouth forms part of the Dartmouth and Kingswear ward of South Hams District Council, which returns three councillors. At the upper tier of local government Dartmouth and Kingswear Electoral Division elects one member to Devon County Council.
The Port of Dartmouth Royal Regatta takes place annually over three days at the end of August.
The nearest Met Office weather station is Slapton, about 5 miles south-south west of Dartmouth and a similar distance from the coast. As with the rest of the British Isles and South West England, the area experiences a maritime climate with warm summers and mild winters - this is particularly pronounced due to its position near the coast - extremes range from a record low of just −8 °C (17.6 °F) in January 1987 up to a record high of 30.5 °C (86.9 °F) during June 1976.
|Climate data for Slapton 32m asl, 1971-2000, Extremes 1960-|
|Record high °C (°F)||14.6
|Average high °C (°F)||9.0
|Average low °C (°F)||3.5
|Record low °C (°F)||−8.0
|Precipitation mm (inches)||122.03
|Source: Royal Dutch Meteorological Institute|
Dartmouth is linked to Kingswear, on the other side of the River Dart, by three ferries. The Higher Ferry and the Lower Ferry are both vehicular ferries. The Passenger Ferry, as its name suggests, carries only passengers, principally to connect with the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway at Kingswear station. The nearest bridge across the Dart is in Totnes, some 11 miles (18 km) away by road.
The A379 road runs through Dartmouth, linking the town to Slapton and Kingsbridge to the southwest and to Torbay to the east across the Higher Ferry. The A3122 connects Dartmouth to a junction with the A381, and hence to both Totnes and a more direct route to Kingsbridge. First Devon & Cornwall provides local town bus services and links to, Plymouth, Kingsbridge. As well as Stagecoach Gold provides a luxury bus service to Torquay via Totnes and Paignton. In addition Stagecoach Devon provides links to the Torbay resorts of Brixham, Paignton and Torquay from Kingswear via the ferry.
No railway has ever run to Dartmouth, but the town does have a railway station, although it is now a restaurant. The railway line to Kingswear was opened in 1864, the original plans for the Dartmouth and Torbay Railway line took the line across a bridge and into the town. Opposition from local seamen and merchants saw the route diverted to Kingswear on the opposite side of the river, but this occurred after the station had been built at Dartmouth. The railway terminated at a station called "Kingswear for Dartmouth" (now on the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway) and a ferry took passengers across the river to the station at Dartmouth railway station, which had a dedicated pontoon. British Railways closed the line to mainline passenger trains in 1973, but re-opened as a heritage line and has run as one ever since.
Dartmouth has one secondary school — formerly (Dartmouth Community College) now Dartmouth Academy — an all-through school for those aged 3–18, and two primary schools: (Dartmouth Primary school (now part of Dartmouth Academy) and St John the Baptist R.C. Primary School). Dartmouth Community College and Dartmouth Primary School are part of the Dartmouth Learning Campus; as from September 2007, Dartmouth Community College is part of a federation with Dartmouth Primary School and Nursery, meaning that the two schools share one governing body for pupils aged 1 to 19. Dartmouth also has a pre-school in the centre of town, established for over 40 years and based in the old Victorian school rooms at South Ford Road. It provides care for 2- to 5-year-olds and is run as a charitable organisation.
Sport and leisure
Dartmouth also hosts the annual "World Indoor Rally Championship", based on Slot car racing in early autumn late summer.
Since 1905 Dartmouth has had a greenhouse as part of the Royal Avenue Gardens. In May 2013 this building, used for the previous 10 years by Dartmouth in Bloom, a not for profit organisation affiliated with Britain in Bloom, was closed as structurally unsound. There are embryo proposals to restore the greenhouse to its prior Edwardian style.
Notable former and present residents
Thomas Newcomen, the inventor of the atmospheric engine – the first successful steam-powered pumping engine – was born in Dartmouth in 1663. The location of his house in Lower Street is marked with a plaque, although the building itself was demolished (and elements incorporated into local architect Thomas Lidstone's house on Ridge Hill) in the 19th century to make way for a new road which was named after Newcomen. An 18th-century working Newcomen steam engine is on display in the town.
The town was home to the civil engineer and calculating prodigy George Parker Bidder (1806–1878), who is notable for his work on railways over much of the world, as well as the docks of the East End in the Port of London. Bidder served on the town council, and his expertise was instrumental in draining the area which is now the centre of the town, but was then part of the River Dart. He also undertook pioneering work with Samuel Lake on steam trawling whilst living in the town. Bidder died at his home at Paradise Point near Warfleet Creek and is buried at nearby Stoke Fleming.
Flora Thompson lived in Above Town between 1928 and 1940, writing Lark Rise and Over to Candleford during this time. The books were later combined into a single volume with the later Candleford Green to form the well-known Lark Rise to Candleford. She is buried at Longcross Cemetery.
The noted stage and film actress Rachel Kempson (1910–2003) was born in Dartmouth. She was the wife of Sir Michael Redgrave and mother of Vanessa, Lynn and Corin, and published her autobiography, Life Among the Redgraves, in 1988.
Christopher Robin Milne, son of A.A. Milne, after whom the character Christopher Robin in the Winnie-the-Pooh books was named, used to own the Harbour Bookshop. The bookshop was reported as facing closure in September 2011 and the report was fulfilled.
Many local businesses with amusingly appropriate names were commemorated in a special edition of the card game Happy Families produced locally in the 1987s, created to raise funds locally. A copy is held in Dartmouth Museum.
- Office for National Statistics : Census 2001 : Parish Headcounts : South Hams Retrieved 27 January 2010
- "John Hawley of Dartmouth". Devonperspectives.co.uk. 2012-02-11. Retrieved 2012-10-25.
- "Roll Of Mayoralty". Dartmouth-history.org.uk. Retrieved 2012-10-25.
- "St Saviour, Dartmouth, Devon - Church". Roughwood.net. 2009-02-27. Retrieved 2012-10-25.
- Good Stuff IT Services. "Listed Buildings in Dartmouth, Devon, England". British Listed Buildings. Retrieved 2012-10-25.
- "The King's Room at Dartmouth Museum". Dartmouth Museum. Retrieved 29 July 2011. "It was in this magnificent room that King Charles II was entertained in July 1671, when storms forced him to seek shelter in Dartmouth."
- Russell, Percy (September 1946). Ancient Dartmouth. Retrieved 2013-02-02.
- "Dartmouth, Devon - Destinations UK". Historic-uk.com. 1944-06-04. Retrieved 2012-10-25.
- Leach, Nicholas (2009). Devon's Lifeboat Heritage. Chacewater: Twelveheads Press. pp. 19–20. ISBN 978-0-906294-72-7.
- "Dartmouth's Tudor buildings destroyed by chip shop fire". BBC News. 29 May 2010. Retrieved 30 May 2010.
- Pigot & Co.'s Devonshire (1830) GenUKi
- The English Non-metropolitan Districts (Definition) Order 1972 (S.I. 1972 No. 2039)
- The Local Government (Successor Parishes) Order 1973 (S.I. 1973 No. 1110)
- Dartmouth Town Councillors, Dartmouth Town Council. Retrieved 21 March 2008
- "Election of District Councillors for Dartmouth and Kingswer". South Hams District Council. Retrieved 15 April 2011.
- Division 36: Dartmouth and Kingswear, Devon County Council. Retrieved 21 March 2008
- "Things to Do - Indoor - Outdoor - Dartmouth Museum". Dartmouth Museum. Retrieved 19 August 2011. "Bayards Cove was used in the BBC period drama The Onedin Line to represent the wharves and buildings of Liverpool Docks."
- "1987 temperature". KNMI.
- "1976 temperature". KNMI.
- "Slapton Climate". KNMI. Retrieved 12 Nov 2011.
- "Dart Harbour : Ferries". The Dart Harbour and Navigation Authority. Retrieved 18 September 2008.
- "Heritage, Landscape & Wildlife: Dartmouth Town Trail". South Devon AONB. Retrieved 2012-10-25.
- "History of Dartmouth Community Greenhouse". Dartmouth in Bloom. Retrieved 17 May 2013. "The Dartmouth Greenhouse was built in 1905. This Greenhouse is part of the history of Royal Avenue Gardens and part of the heritage of the town of Dartmouth."
- "Bloom team bid to restore greenhouse". North London Today (Tindle Newspapers). 15 March 2013. Retrieved 17 May 2013. "The greenhouse, built in 1905, was an original feature of the New Ground, which became Royal Avenue Gardens, and remains the oldest surviving feature of the gardens, six years older than the bandstand."
- "Dartmouth in Bloom, horticultural achievement, environmental responsibility, community participation Dartmouth in Bloom". Dartmouth in Bloom. Retrieved 6 October 2013.
- "Bloom contest fear over gardening cut". Dartmouth Chronicle (Tindle Newspapers). 3 May 2013. "... the local bloom team has had to cope with the closure of its community Greenhouse which has been deemed too structurally dangerous to use."
- "Bloom team bid to restore greenhouse". Dartmouth Chronicle (Tindle Newspapers). 15 March 2013. "Dartmouth in Bloom has big plans to rescue one of the town’s greatest assets, the community greenhouse, and restore it to its former Edwardian glory. The move comes at a time when the future of the community greenhouse is at risk, with controversial proposals from South Hams Council, which owns the building, to flatten it to extend the Mayor Avenue car park."
- "BBC News - Christopher Robin's Dartmouth bookshop to close". Bbc.co.uk. 2011-08-19. Retrieved 2012-10-25.
- "visually lush: Dartmouth Happy Families". Lydiadimitrova.blogspot.co.uk. 2009-05-07. Retrieved 2012-10-25.
- "Holdsworth Room - War - Peace - Oldstone Dolls House - Dartmouth Museum". Dartmouth Museum. Retrieved 23 July 2012. "In one of the many drawers [...] you will find a very special pack of cards; Dartmouth's own local Happy Families game, devised by local artist Simon Drew and sold in 1987 to raise money for the swimming pool fund."
|Wikimedia Commons has media related to Dartmouth, Devon.|
|Wikivoyage has a travel guide for Dartmouth.|
- Dartmouth at the Open Directory Project
- Charles Oman, "Dartmouth and Kingswear Castles: Twin Dart estuary defenders"
- Dartmouth Museum
- "Dartmouth". The American Cyclopædia. 1879.
- "Dartmouth, a seaport, market town, and municipal borough in the Torquay parliamentary division of Devonshire, England". Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). 1911