Dave Hahn

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Dave Hahn (November 3, 1961, Okinawa, Japan) is a professional mountain guide, ski patroller, journalist and lecturer. On May 26, 2012 he reached the summit of Mount Everest for the 14th time - the most for a non-Sherpa climber.[1] Among Hahn’s other notable accomplishments are his 30 summits of Vinson Massif, Antarctica’s highest mountain. He has reached the summit of Mount McKinley (locally known as Denali) in Alaska, North America’s highest peak, 20 times over the course of 27 expeditions in 25 years.

On May 6, 2009 Hahn received a Citizen's Award for Bravery from the U.S. Department of the Interior. The award was bestowed on him for a rescue he made of an injured climber on Mount Rainier in 2002. The rescue received additional attention because the helicopter that Hahn was in crashed upon descent. Hahn helped evacuate the pilot before making his way to the injured climber.[2]


Hahn graduated with a Bachelor of Arts degree in history from the State University of New York at Buffalo in 1984.

In 1999, Hahn, who specializes in guiding high, glaciated mountains, was a key member of the team that discovered the remains of George Mallory at 27,000 feet (8,200 m) on Mount Everest's North Face. Mallory died on the mountain in 1924, along with fellow climber Andrew Irvine, but it has never been determined whether or not he first reached the top.

In 2001, Hahn was selected as the Denali Pro Mountaineer of the Year, by the National Park Service for rescues performed on Mount McKinley.[3] In 2002, he was a recipient of the Sowles Award, given by the American Alpine Club in recognition of rescues performed high on the Tibetan flank of Mount Everest in May 2001.[4] In 2008, Hahn was honored by the Nepal Mountaineering Association for the 2007 rescue of a climber in distress above 27,000 feet on Everest's South Side.[5]

Since 2005, Hahn has been a sponsored athlete for Powersox.[6] Hahn is a member of Eddie Bauer's "First Ascent" climbing team.[7] He is currently sponsored for ski equipment by Salomon and for climbing equipment by Whittaker Mountaineering, a climbing store in Ashford Washington. Hahn was a 2008 ESPY Award nominee for Best Outdoor Athlete.[8]

Numerous organizations use Hahn as a guide including Rainier Mountaineering, International Mountain Guides, Fathom Expeditions, and Geographic Expeditions. Hahn is a regular guide on Mount Rainier in Washington with more than 250 ascents, as well as a professional ski patroller at Taos Ski Valley in New Mexico where he has been employed since 1985. He has guided climbers to the summit of Cho Oyu twice, the sixth-highest mountain in the world, bordering Nepal and Tibet. Hahn has also made a specialty of guiding the “Shackleton Crossing” on South Georgia, the island in Antarctic waters that figured prominently in the Endurance saga of 1914-16.[9]

Hahn is a contributor to Outside magazine and has acted as a correspondent for several websites, including PowerSox.com, GreatOutdoors.com and FirstAscent.com. He has contributed to several books dealing with Mount Everest and the search for George Mallory and Andrew Irvine.