Obedience training

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Obedience training usually refers to the training of a dog and the term is most commonly used in that context. Obedience training ranges from very basic training, such as teaching the dog to reliably respond to basic commands such as "sit", "down", "come", and "stay", to high level competition within clubs such as the American Kennel Club and the Canadian Kennel Club, where additional commands, accuracy and performance are scored and judged.

Obedience implies compliance with the direction or command given by the handler. For a dog to be considered obedient rather than simply trained in obedience, it must respond reliably each time the command is given, by what is commonly known as its handler. A dog can go through Obedience training and not be obedient. If a dog is referred to as being Obedience Trained it should comply immediately with every command its handler gives. In the strictest sense an Obedience trained dog is an obedient dog.

Training a dog in obedience can be an ongoing and lengthy process depending on the dog, the methods used, and the skill and understanding of both the trainer and the handler. The level of obedience the handler wishes to achieve with the dog is also a major factor in the time involved, as is the commitment to training by the handler.

Obedience training is often a prerequisite for or component of other training.

The actual training of the dog can be done by anyone, the trainer, owner, or a friend. Typically the individual who is caring for and living with the dog participates and trains the dog, as they will be the one who will be giving the commands. The relationship and trust between the dog and handler are important for success.

Basic or beginner's obedience is typically a short course ranging from six to ten weeks, where it is demonstrated to the handler how to communicate with and train the dog in a few simple commands. With most methods the dog is trained one command at a time. Though there may or may not be a specific word attached to it, walking properly on a leash, or leash control, is often the first training required prior to learning other commands.

Contents 1 History 2 Dog Intelligence and Training 3 Commands 3.1 Basic commands 3.2 Advanced commands 4 Tools 5 Levels of Obedience 6 Competitive obedience 6.1 Obedience for Other Purposes 7 See also 8 References

[edit] History

Working dogs have always learned to obey commands related to the work that they historically performed, such as when a sheepdog moves a flock of animals in response to a shepherd's whistled directions, or a hunting dog searching for (or chasing down) quarry or leaving the treed quarry at the hunter's command.

In the twentieth century, formalized dog training originated in military and police applications, and the methods used largely reflected the military approach to training humans. In the middle and late part of the century, however, more research into operant conditioning and positive reinforcement occurred as wild animal shows became more popular. Aquatic mammal trainers used clickers (a small box that makes a loud click when pushed on) to "mark" desired behavior, giving food as a reward. The change in training methods spread gradually into the world of dog training. Today many dog trainers rely heavily on positive reinforcement to teach new behaviors.

At a basic level, owners want dogs with whom they can pleasantly share a house, a car, or a walk in the park. Some dogs need only a minimum amount of training to learn to eliminate outside (be housebroken), to sit, to lie down, or to come on command (obey a recall). Many other dogs prove more challenging. New dog owners might find training difficult and fail to make progress, because they expect dogs to think and act like humans, and are surprised and baffled when the dogs don't.

Dogs who demonstrate the previously mentioned basic skills, as well as walking reasonably well on a leash and a few other minor tasks, can be tested for and earn the American Kennel Club's (AKC) Canine Good Citizen certification. While not a competitive obedience title, a CGC certification demonstrates that the dog is sociable, well behaved and reliable in public settings. Some insurance companies will waive breed restrictions on dogs with CGCs, and many states have passed resolutions supporting and encouraging CGC certification as a yardstick for canine manners and responsible dog ownership.

[edit] Dog Intelligence and Training

Certain breeds, such as Doberman Pinschers, German Shepherds, Border Collies, Labrador Retrievers and Golden Retrievers, have reputations as being easier to train than others, such as some hounds and sled dogs. Dogs that have been bred to perform one task to the exclusion of all others (such as the Bloodhound or Husky), or who have been bred to work independently from their handler (such as terriers), may be particularly challenging to obedience train.

Dog intelligence is exhibited in many different ways, and a dog who might not be easy to train might nonetheless be quite adept at figuring out how to open kitchen cabinets or to escape from the yard. Novice dog owners need to consider a dog's trainability as well as its energy level, exercise requirements, and other factors before choosing a new pet. Very high intelligence is not necessarily a good thing in a companion dog, as smart dogs can require extensive daily mental stimulation if they are not to become bored and destructive.

No breed is impossible to obedience train, but novice owners might find training some breeds quite difficult. The capacity to learn basic obedience—and even complicated behavior—is inherent in all dogs. Owners may need to be more patient, or creative, or both, with some breeds than with others.

[edit] Commands

The specific command word is not important, but consistency in usage is. There are certain commands that are accepted as standard and commonly used.

[edit] Basic commands

• Sit: The dog is in a sitting position.
• Down: A dog is typically down when its elbows (front feet) and hocks (rear legs) are touching the ground or floor.
• Heel: The dog's head or shoulder is parallel to the handler's leg on the left side of the handler.
• Come or Here: (referred to as the recall) "Call your dog" equals "come" or "here".
• Stay: The dog must remain in the position (sit, down, stand) and location under which the command was given until it is released by the handler.
• Beg: The dog is taught to literally beg for a given object in a fashion the owner desires (usually whining or standing).
• Shake: From a sitting position the dog will extend one of its paws and "shake hands" with the one who gave the command. Side note: do not teach this to a dog directly after teaching it to sit. The dog will assume that they are both one trick and will start to shake immediately upon sitting down. This command may also be given as "paw".

[edit] Advanced commands

• Stop – a dog that will simply stop whatever it is doing and lie down on command no matter how far it is from its keeper is a dog that can be taken anywhere. Some handlers use the German word Platz (related to "place", i.e. stay in position) for this action.
• Back up – keepers of large dogs or dogs with a reputation for aggressiveness can make strangers more comfortable by teaching the dog to back up on command.
• Growl – the inverse of backing up. Some owners teach non-aggressive dogs to growl on a subtle command – not the word growl, usually a small hand gesture – as a way of letting strangers know that you and your dog value being left alone.
• Steady – keep near by. The dog can walk free, but not dash off. Train to this command with a long leash, calling out Steady when the leash is taut. Continue off leash.
• Stand – dog stands still. Train from lying-down position by lifting under belly while repeating command. Useful for grooming. Many dogs are groomed frequently and need to stand quietly during the process.
• Go to bed, kennel, or get in: Directs the dog to go to its bed or its crate and to remain there until released. The dog has freedom of movement in that location to stand up, turn around, or lie down, unlike when placed in a Stay. Useful to keep a dog out from underfoot and safe in a busy or complicated situation.
• Drop or drop it: Dogs pick up all sorts of things, some of which they shouldn't have. A dog that drops anything on command, no matter how attractive (and "attractive" to a dog can be "rotten and smelly" to a human), is a dog under control that the owner can prevent from eating dangerous items or from destroying valued personal property.
• Leave it: An adjunct to Drop, directing the dog to not touch an item. Also useful before the dog has picked anything up. Leave it is also used in conjunction with Take it.
• Take it: The dog leaves a desired object, such as a toy or treat, untouched until given this command. This can protect an owner's, visitor's, or child's fingers.
• Give: The dog has an object in its mouth and "gives" it to its owner by releasing the object into the owner's hand. Object of choice in training is usually a light-weight dumbbell or a glove. This is useful for when your dog has one of your belongings and you want it back before the dog hides it or chews it up.
• Speak: A dog, when taught this command, will bark once(or more) when told to do so.
• Roll Over: When taught this command a dog will lie down, roll over, and stand back up.
• Attack: A dog will attack something (or someone) when told to do so. Common commands are either "Attack" or "Sick'em".
• Fetch: A dog will retrieve a thrown object (usually a ball or a stick) and bring it back to the one who threw it.

[edit] Tools

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• Collars:

Flat collars are commonly used in clicker training[tracking] [protection] and other non-correction-based training,such as puppy kindergarten.They are also effective in training small dogs,however they tend to lift the dog off the ground when giving corrections while the dog is distracted or in high adrenal mode.Some trainers use them on certain larger breeds however this can cause muscle fatigue for the handler and whiplash type sensations to the dog when distracted.Food,toys,sounds with mouth ie whistling or click click sounds similar to horse training, and marine mammal type clickers are recommended for minimal corrections,and keeping their attention.They are typically made of nylon or leather,and fasten with a buckle or quick-release connection.Most pet stores sell very thin collars which can cause minor damage and choking.Thick is better especially for short snout dogs and protection training.or tie outs.

Correction collars include slip collars, prong collars, and occasionally electronic collars.

Slip collars (commonly called [[choke and or check chains] ]training or choke collars) are made of metal links or rolled material such as nylon or leather. A metal ring is at each end.Nylon is less harmful to fur but can severely burn skin.Chain collars are more harmful to fur but don't burn the skin as much.Historically,slip collars have been used as a matter of course,mostly in North America and the UK and most trainers still recommend them for basic training on every dog.They are the most popular training apparatus.Correctly used,the collar should make a quick clicking not zipping sound when quickly snapped and released to startle or get the attention of the dog and indicate to the handler that the technique was a pop not a choke.The idea is not to strangle the dog or choke unless the dog is trying to bite or become aggressive to another dog,or latches on to a cat,person,bone off the street etc.and refuses to release it.The lead or leash should always be kept loose,and the dog at heel,with no tension between the dog and its handler.The leash can be switched to the dead ring when on pleasure walks.Solid welded and fine choke chains are more effective and safer.They should only be used on dogs that are trained,in training,and over 6 months of age.Untrained dogs pull their owners equally with these collars as they would with a regular leather or nylon collar,but the more they pull the more the collar chokes.The dog does not learn from this,and damage to the wind pipe can occur.There are very large chain link collars called fur saver collars which are recommended for longer haired breeds.Unlike the fine collars,they do not administer as effective a correction.Some trainers use these on all breeds of dogs.They may be minutely easier on the neck but much harder on the handler.These trainers usually need more time to finish training around distractions with fur saver collars,especially when not using motivational tools like toys,food,or clickers.These collars are harmful,and won't release it's choke hold properly when fitted improperly.They do not come with instructions.It is wise to seek the advice of a professional trainer,and not a pet store or kennel employee,groomer,and in most cases veterinarian.Not recommended for tie outs.Serious consequences can happen.

Martingale collars (also called limited-slip collars)and Dog Conformation Collar used in Conformation Shows and Training,are usually made of flat nylon with a smaller fixed-length section (made of either nylon or a short length of chain) that, when pulled on by the leash, shortens up tightening the collar around the dogs neck,which then allows the handler to lift the dogs head up high and adjust the dogs positioning,posture,and stance while being examined by the Judge.It also doesn't restrict the dogs gait while pulling on the lead running or trotting at ringside,and allows the dog to pull freely to show musculature,and movement.Unlike common choke chains, the martingale collar does not continue to shorten,and will not restrict the dogs airways as improper use of choke chains can,and is generally used to train for conformation show ring.Tie outs with this type of collar are ok.

Prong collars (also called pinch collars)has the same design as the Martingale Show Collar but are made of metal links which have prongs on the inside of the collar.The use of these collars is prohibited in some countries because most Humans base their decisions on appearance and Human emotions rather than fact and logic.Like judging a book by its cover.They are in fact less damaging than a slip collar or check chain,more effective and the most humane collar for administering both reminders and discipline corrections as they apply more even pressure around the dog's neck,do not choke the dog or restrict breathing in the slightest,unlike all the other brands on the market,and cuts the dogs pulling in half which makes free time walks more enjoyable for both dog and owner,and again less pressure on the throat.The collar simulates neck biting which the mother dog uses for discipline.This collar requires less strength in corrections,doesn't cause bruising,hair wear down,burning or trachea damage.Seniors,people with arthritis or other disability,or dogs which out weigh them, can use them with great success.Trying all the different collars on around your leg will give you an idea of the stimuli.Caution should be used with older Dominate and aggressive dogs especially when working around other dogs with a dog aggressive dog,as the dog may try to bite back as a protest or accidentally from instant reaction during periods of high adrenal.This collar works best with sensitive dogs during traffic de-sensitizing as it does not startle the dog during corrections,requires very little hand and arm motion,and keeps the dog more focused on the Handler vs. the things that scare the dog ie; noise etc.. Rubber tips are sold separately for short haired dogs,and correct prong size,as well as proper fitting and removal,is essential as to not cause injury.Manufacturers do not add directions to this collar,so instruction by a legitimate Trainer is important.Not for tie outs,and not to be left on in crates or kennels.These collars are also safe to use on untrained dogs,until you get enrolled in a program.

E-collars have a receiver in the collar. An electrical stimulation or signal is transmitted by the handler remotely, at varying degrees of intensity,from varying distances depending on range frequency.It is also done automatically in the bark electronic collar to stop excessive barking, and invisible fence collar when the dog strays outside its boundary.They are and were illegal in allot of Countries.It only became legal in Canada after the SPCA approved the sale of invisible boundary fences which uses electricity to stop dogs from running at large,and endorsed them as being humane.Some Communities do not allow traditional fences. Many professionals had to smuggle them across the border,which restricted its use to trainers which in turn leased them to clients who really needed them,and received important instructions on how to use them.Now they are sold to the general public in major pet stores everywhere.These collars will correct all problems except nervousness.If used improperly with levels too high for extremely nervous and fearful dogs,unlike prong collars,it can actually increase the problem as opposed to correct it.Non trainers are more likely to make mistakes which can confuse the dog thus create a nervous and jumpy dog.A buzzer warns the dog to stop the undesired behavior before administering the shock.The collar is sold to the general public,but should never be used to train a dog,or replace training.On and off leash obedience training and perimeter training for out of site fence e collars,must be done first.Once a dog is Obedience trained and perimeter trained (barrier collar),the electronic collar can be used to proof perimeter training and stop undesirable behaviors such as digging,not coming when called,barking etc.In other words it is for the stubborn dog who knows whats expected,or not desired but refuses.Natural problems like digging,or rolling on feces,urine and cadavers,owner or trainer should remain out of sight when administering corrections,unless the natural problem is chasing where you want the dog to come back to you next time.For re call exercise use in enclosed areas.Remember,Obedience Train your dog first before using these collars,and never use them as a replacement or substitute to traditional Basic Obedience Training.An alternative to an electronic bark collar is a citronella collar,though,depending on severity of problem,and individual dog,it may not be effective for all..Crate training in conjunction with banging on it with a stern quiet,or splashing water is enough of a deterrent,very effective and cannot harm the dog.Dogs learn from good and bad experiences.Give a bad experience or ignore the bad or unwanted behavior,and don't give the dog a good experience with attention by talking to it or letting the dog out of the crate while barking.A quiet dog is relaxed and calm.Use the crate often while home as to not create separation anxiety inside the crate when not home.Removing the dogs voice should not be an option,and many Veterinarians would rather collect a fee to stop the barking rather than refer a trainer.Some trainers at one time and still do refuse to use e collars or just use them as a last resort.Now with the popularity of these fences,allot of dogs are already accustomed to them,and sometimes it is more important to zap them for running after cars than wandering into Aunt Mae's flower garden.Some out of sight electronic fence trainers will train very young puppies with the use of electronics,where most legitimate dog trainers will recommend a pen until the minimum age of 7 months.Poison proofing methods and bird training have relied on electronic devices for many years.Most collars are water proof,and no longer require dummy collars.These collars must be fitted snugly for them to work at all.Sometimes a little hair is removed so that prods are making contact with skin.

• Leash: The leash or lead is used to connect the dog to the handler,and lead the dog,as well as to control the dog in urban areas.Most communities have laws which prohibit dogs from running at large.Should your loose dog hurt itself,a bicyclist,restrained dog on the leash,you would be at fault.They may be made of any material such as nylon,metal or leather.Some are made with polymer water proof material. A six foot length is commonly used for walking and in training classes,as to allow the owners to become accustomed to slack as opposed to tension,and not to get pulled over or dragged too badly.Some pet stores sell very short leads called traffic leads.They should be used for off lead training,but are used for regular walks instead.These leads can make a dog react aggressively when approached by people or other dogs.and a person can fall to the ground very easily.You should never put the handle around a child's wrist as this can cause serious injury. Nylon can burn the skin on your hands,and chain leads have a tiny strap for a handle which often can break.They are also too heavy and bulky and not practical for everyday use let alone for training.Skin can become stuck to the chain on cold winter days.They are helpful for leaving it on in the household during training,tying onto seat of car, or on an aggressive dog when in a cage or kennel.These type of leads are easy to clean,and the dog cannot chew them apart.They are commonly used for tie outs,as well as metal cables.A lung line,off lead training or tracking lead can be up to 30 feet long.They also make leads with a handle near the bottom.These only allow for choking,and restraining tightly close to you which again can cause the dog to respond in aggression and pull and chase more,just like a dog that is tied to a tree.There is also an extension lead which has a handle,stop and lock button.Never walk more than one dog at a time and carefully read the warning labels before use.These can be used for tracking,some off leash training,and tie out.

• Clicker: Some trainers use a small device which makes a sharp, distinct sound to mark a desired behavior. (See clicker training for a more detailed discussion of this methodology.)Most commonly used for trick training in movies,television,circus performances,fun and competition obedience.If used solely as a method of training around distractions,a dog can easily become reliant upon the device.For owners who need help with discipline,and need more respect and authority,they should not use the clicker after the trainer has already taught the behavior.The whole idea of regimental repetitive drill is to instill discipline,control,respect,and authority.This is precisely the reason for military drill.Even if it is for an hour,it gives the handler a chance to project rank and hierarchy.Food and toys are often used in place of a clicker.Food must always be used with a clicker.The more desirable the food,the easier the behavior is to teach.Food is not only the key motivator,but is also a reward,and can keep the dogs attention as well as used as a steering wheel to guide the dog into a command position.

[edit] Levels of Obedience

• Novice (Basic or companion)
• Open (Intermediate)
• Utility (Advanced)

[edit] Competitive obedience

For dog owners who enjoy competition and relish the opportunity to work as a highly tuned team with their dogs, competitive obedience trials are available. Dogs can earn obedience titles, including an obedience championship.

In competition, merely sitting, lying down, or walking on a leash are insufficient. The dog and handler must perform the activities off leash and in a highly stylized and carefully defined manner. For example, on a recall, the dog must come directly to the handler, without sniffing or veering to one side, and must sit straight in front of the handler, not at an angle or off to one side or the other. Training for obedience competitions builds on basic obedience training.

The United Kennel Club (UKC), the Australian National Kennel Council (ANKC), the American Kennel Club (AKC) and the Australian Shepherd Dog Club of America (ASCA) are some of the organizations which offer titles in Competition Obedience.

In recent years, a new form of Obedience competition, known as Rally Obedience, has become very popular. It was originally devised by Charles L. "Bud" Kramer from the obedience practice of "doodling" - doing a variety of interesting warmup and freestyle exercises. Rally Obedience is designed to be a "bridge", or intermediate step, between the CGC certification and traditional Obedience competition.

Unlike regular obedience, instead of waiting for the judge's orders, the competitors proceed around a course of designated stations with the dog in heel position. The course consists of 10 to 20 signs that instruct the team what to do. Unlike traditional obedience, handlers are allowed to encourage their dogs during the course.

[edit] Obedience for Other Purposes

There are many reasons for training dogs beyond the level required for basic companionship. For example, assistance dogs must obey their "sit" and "down" commands perfectly at all times, but they do not have to conform to the rigid rules of competitive obedience.

Dogs competing in dog sports, such as flyball, agility or Schutzhund, must be trusted in an open field, off leash and surrounded by other people, dogs, hot dogs, and flying discs. This requires more focused attention on the owner and a better recall than that found in most household companion dogs, and more advanced training than that required for formal obedience.

[edit] See also

• Clicker training
• Dog sports
• Dog training
• The Intelligence of Dogs
• Musical Canine Freestyle
• Rally obedience (Rally-O)

[edit] References

• AKC Obedience Regulations