Don Whillans (18 May 1933 – 4 August 1985) was an English rock climber and mountaineer. Born and brought up in a two-up two-down house in Salford, Lancashire, he climbed with both Joe Brown and Chris Bonington on many new routes, and was considered the technical equal of both. He was an apprentice plumber when he first started his climbing career with Joe Brown in 1951. Don met Joe Brown while climbing one day at the Roaches, Staffordshire. When Joe's climbing partner failed to follow Joe up a new route, Don shouted up to ask if he could try—and subsequently led the second pitch of Joe's new route, which became known as Matinee.
Whillans had from an early age walked all around the local Pennine moors; climbing therefore was the next step for an adventurous young boy. From rock climbing he expanded into mountaineering with trips to the Alps. Ascents in the alps included the "Bonatti Pillar" of the Dru and the first ascent along with Chris Bonington, Jan Długosz and Ian Clough of the Central Pillar of Freney on Mount Blanc. In 1962 with Chris Bonington he made the first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia. With Dougal Haston, he made the first ascent of the south face of Annapurna in Bonington's 1970 expedition.
Whillans was attributed great safety and mountain awareness, as evidenced by the fact that he retreated from the Eiger North Face on several separate occasions owing to bad weather or rockfall. He also had very few climbing accidents although there were several near misses, such as when a fixed rope on the Central Tower of Paine snapped. In this case he managed to put his weight on the holds with split-second timing before calmly retying the rope.
Whillans was well regarded for his capacity to deliver a cracking one-liner off the cuff. One example which perhaps best encapsulates his wry humour concerns him encountering a team of—to his mind—poorly equipped Japanese mountaineers attempting the north face of the Eiger. "You going up?" Whillans asked them. "Yes! Yes!" came the reply. Pause, then Whillans: "You may be going a lot higher than you think." In another story, Whillans was participating in the 1972 European Everest Expedition, attempting to climb Mount Everest's Southwest Face. The expedition had been plagued with several personality conflicts and the withdrawal of many climbers. While in camp, some of the other climbers overheard news that England had lost a soccer game to Germany. "It seems we have beaten you at your national sport", said a German. After a slight pause Whillans replied, "Aye, and we've beaten you at yours...twice." Another notable incident occurred when late one night in an alpine hut two climbers were engaged in a whispered conversation. This was disturbing the sleep of an entire room of slumbering climbers, one of whom was Whillans. Eventually he demanded that they shut up; there was a brief pause before one of the youths aggressively refused to be quiet, remarking into the darkness "who do you think you are?" The gruff reply of "Whillans" was followed by complete silence. However, Whillans's biographer Jim Perrin suggests many of these stories are myths. Whillans himself liked to emphasise his working class credentials, and on his lecture tours, enjoyed telling the story of being stormbound in a tent high in the Himalayas with the more cerebral but equally talented Dougal Haston. Dougal had finished reading Lord of The Rings and passed him the book. Whillans read a few pages, then grimaced. Thowing it back to Dougal, he remarked: "I'm not reading that crap, it's full of fooking fairies" !
Whillans was well known for his heavy drinking, which harmed his career after the expedition to Annapurna and may have contributed to his early death from a heart attack. Although he was only 5' 4" tall, he also had a reputation as a mean brawler, with many stories of his prowess circulating including one where he punches a bus conductor from a moving bus. He also designed mountaineering equipment, including the "Whillans Harness", once described as designed to safely transport beer-guts to great height, and the "Whillans-box" expedition tent. He died at the age of fifty-two and was the subject of a biography titled The Villain by the author–climber Jim Perrin in 2005.
- Jim Perrin (2005), The Villain : the life of Don Whillans, Hutchinson, ISBN 0-09-179438-2.
- Whillans, Don & Ormerod, Alick (1971), "Don Whillans. Portrait of a mountaineer.", Heinemann, London (ISBN 0-434-86251-7) (Harmondsworth, Penguin Books, 1973).
- Don Whillans – Myth and Legend (2006) – Film by Leo Dickinson
- Tom Patey – A Short Walk With Whillans – SMC Journal 1963, and included in 'Mirrors in the Cliffs' ed. Jim Perrin, Diadem 1983
- "Welcome to The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine's Fate". Wou.edu. Retrieved 1 October 2012.
- "Don Whillans – the 'ard little man in the flat 'at". SummitPost. Retrieved 1 October 2012.
- "The Don Whillans Hut: A History". thebmc.co.uk. 2013. Retrieved 18 April 2013.
- List of Joe Brown's first ascents, including many with Don Whillans
- "The vertical beatnik", Observer Sport Monthly, 6 March 2005
- Peter Donnelly, 'Whillans, Donald Desbrow (1933–1985)', Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, Oxford University Press, Sept 2004; online edn, May 2006
- The Don Whillans Memorial Hut Information page at the BMC website
- A Whillan's tale Leo Dickinson introduces his new film, exploring the myths and legends of rock climber Don Whillans
- Don Whillan's Last Climb Filmed shortly before his death, Whillans and Joe Brown re-climb Cemetery Gates in Llanberis Pass 33 years after their first ascent.