Dwarf rabbit
Most of the rabbits sold as dwarves in pet stores are not true dwarfs, but crosses between a dwarf and a standard rabbit. These "mongrels" are hardier, but grow to a larger size and lack the characteristic small head and low carriage of the true dwarf.
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[edit] Standard
Dwarf rabbits ideally weigh 2 pounds (0.907 kg), but may weigh up to 2 1/2 pounds (1.134 kg). Ears are short, perky and substantial. They should ideally measure 2 inches long (50 mm), but may be up to 2 1/2 inches in length (75 mm). Ears over 2 1/2 inches long results in a disqualification.
General type is short, round and compact. Shoulders and hindquarters should be the same width, with height balanced with width. "Narrow" should never come to mind when considering any aspect of a Netherland Dwarf.
[edit] Coat
Showing Dwarfs are judged in a natural pose, without pushing the head to the table. The many varieties are grouped into 5 categories. They first compete within the group, then against the other groups, and finally a Best of Breed and Runner-up is chosen. Here are those groups in the USA (grouped similarly in the UK):
Group 1 - Self •Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac, Red-Eyed-White, Blue-Eyed-White
Group 2 - Shaded •Sable Point, Siamese Sable (UK: Light, Medium, Dark), Siamese Smoke Pearl, Tortoiseshell
Group 3 - Agoutis •Chestnut, Chinchilla, Lynx, Opal, Squirrel
Group 4 - Tan Patterns •Otters (Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac), Sable Marten (UK: Light, Medium, Dark), Silver Martin (Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac), Smoke Pearl Marten, Tans (Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac)
Group 5 - Any Other Varieties •Broken, Fawn, Himalayan (Black, Blue, Chocolate, Lilac), Orange, Steel •UK: Any Other Color
New varieties of Netherland Dwarfs under development in the USHere is a summary of new variety info provided by the American Netherland Dwarf Rabbit Club:
Blue Tortoiseshell The blue tortoiseshell is a fawn rabbit with smoky blue on the sides, rump, belly, ears, feet, and tail. Blue tortoiseshells will get their second try at a third showing at the 2011 ARBA Convention.
Red Reds are a rich fiery red color all over. The rabbit should look like a self rabbit, understanding that this is an agouti rabbit with the black coloration completely eliminated by the recessive ‘ee’ non-extension gene. Red Netherland Dwarfs will get their second try at a first showing in 2011 at the ARBA Convention.
Champagne This is a black rabbit that is silvered very similarly to the Champagne d'Argent. The adult Champagne Netherland Dwarf won’t look black. It should have a “light silvery appearance with a bluish undercolor showing through the silver.” Champagnes will get their first try at a first showing at the 2011 ARBA Convention.
[edit] History
While Holland is the true home of the Netherland Dwarf, nevertheless the Hermelin rabbit, a red-eyed white rabbit originally known in Germany as the Polish rabbit, is the major foundation stock for today’s Netherland Dwarf. Hermelins were recognized in Holland in 1907. A dedicated core of five Dutchmen, led by Mr. Jan Meyering, worked tirelessly for 30 years breeding the all-white Hermelins with local native wild rabbits, as well as with various other domestic breeds (large and small). The goal was to standardize a very small rabbit that would be available and accepted in a plethora of colors and varieties. Netherland Dwarfs were officially recognized in Holland in 1940, just days before Germany crashed their party and occupied Holland. Just 17 Netherland Dwarfs survived World War II. In 1947, several English breeders were gifted with 9 offspring: 1 agouti, 2 black, 2 blue, 1 sable, 1 blue-eyed white, and 2 red-eyed-white. In only 3 years, the British Rabbit Council recognized the new breed. Netherland Dwarfs flew out of British hutches to meet the intense demand for these tiny yet bold little rabbits.
It was not until 1965 that the Netherland Dwarf arrived in the USA. The purpose for the original imports was to improve the Polish rabbit breed in the US. The same fascination with Netherlands soon began to consume Americans. The ARBA recognized the Netherland Dwarf in 1969.
Today TheDwarf rabbit is the Number One most popular rabbit breed across the globe. The breed is recognized in every country that has a national rabbit club. In the United States, they are recognized in 37 varieties, with 3 more varieties under consideration.
The UK recognizes all these varieties. Plus, under ‘Other Varieties’ (Group 5), the BRC allows "Any Other Color...so long as it conforms to the normal pattern of accepted colours of other breeds." In the UK, the Netherland Dwarf is showable in virtually any already accepted color.
[edit] Health
Vaccinations - Rabbits should be vaccinated against Myxamitosis and Viral Haemorragic Fever. You will need to specify the Viral Haemorragic Fever to your vet as most vets only do Myxamitosis. In high risk areas - like if you have wild rabbits in fields very close - these should be given at 6 monthly intervals to ensure full immunity.
Teeth - Rabbits must always have things to gnaw to help them keep them worn down. This is one of the reasons they should always have access to good quality hay as this helps to keep the teeth worn down. You can provide other wooden toys and chews for them, also fresh branches such as apple branches are a great source of activity for them. Make sure any branches you give them have not been sprayed with pesticides.
Spaying and Neutering - Reproductive cancer for female rabbits is quite a high risk, thankfully spaying completely rules this out. It also has other benefits from the owners point of view as it will reduce behaviours such as chewing and reduce any stroppiness caused by hormones. For males the benefits of neutering are mostly behavioural, reducing spraying and hormonal issues. But spaying and neutering also makes it possible to pair the buns up with members of the opposite sex without increasing the population.
Diarrhea - If you see diarrhea in your pet they should be brought to a vet straight away. If they do not have diarrhea but their faeces is somewhat soft and misshapen it is best to remove any pellets or fresh food, make sure they have plenty of hay and water and keep a close eye on them. If their poo does not return to normal within a couple of days they should be brought to the vet.
