Eight-thousander

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The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent[1] mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) high above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia.

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander took place on the expedition by Albert F. Mummery, and J. Norman Collie to Nanga Parbat in the territory of Kashmir (in present day Pakistan Administered Kashmir) in 1895; this attempt failed as Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.

The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on June 3, 1950.

The first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders was Reinhold Messner. He completed this task on October 16, 1986. A year later, in 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka became the second climber to accomplish this feat. As of 2009, a total of seventeen people have followed through undisputed. This is an extremely hazardous feat; at least four people have died while in pursuit of this goal. The man who has climbed the mountains of this category most times is Juanito Oiarzabal; a total of 23 times since 1985 to 2009.


List of eight-thousanders[2][3]

Peak Height Location First ascent First ascensionist(s) First ascent in winter First ascensionist(s) in winter Ascents Deaths Death rate Death rate
before 1990*
Death rate
since 1990*
Everest 8848 m Nepal/China 29 May 1953 New Zealand Edmund Hillary
NepalTenzing Norgay
17 Feb 1980
Poland Krzysztof Wielicki
Poland Leszek Cichy
3684 210 5.70% 37% 4.4%
K2 8611 m China/Pakistan[4] 31 Jul 1954 Italy Achille Compagnoni
Italy Lino Lacedelli
284 66 23.24% 41% 19.7%
Kangchenjunga 8586 m Nepal/India 25 May 1955 United Kingdom George Band
United Kingdom Joe Brown
11 Jan 1986 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki
Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
209 40 21.4% 21% 22%
Lhotse 8516 m Nepal/China 18 May 1956 Switzerland Fritz Luchsinger
Switzerland Ernst Reiss
31 Dec 1988 Poland Krzysztof Wielicki 221 11 3.43% 14% 2%
Makalu 8485 m Nepal/China 15 May 1955 France Jean Couzy
France Lionel Terray
09 Feb 2009 Italy Simone Moro
Kazakhstan Dennis Urubko
234 26 11.11% 16% 8.5%
Cho Oyu 8188 m Nepal/China 19 Oct 1954 Austria Joseph Joechler
Nepal Pasang Dawa Lama
Austria Herbert Tichy
12 Feb 1985 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Maciej Pawlikowski
Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
2668 39 1.46%
Dhaulagiri I 8167 m Nepal 13 May 1960 Austria Kurt Diemberger
Germany Peter Diener
Nepal Nawang Dorje
Nepal Nima Dorje
Switzerland Ernst Forrer
Austria Albin Schelbert
21 Jan 1985 Poland Andrzej Czok
Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
358 58 16.20% 31% 11%
Manaslu 8163 m Nepal 09 May 1956 Japan Toshio Imanishi
Nepal Gyalzen Norbu
14 Jan 1984 Poland Maciej Berbeka
Poland Ryszard Gajewski
297 53 17.85% 35.16% 13.42%
Nanga Parbat 8126 m Pakistan 03 Jul 1953 Austria Hermann Buhl 287 64 22.30% 77% 5.5%
Annapurna I 8091 m Nepal 03 Jun 1950 France Maurice Herzog
France Louis Lachenal
03 Feb 1987 Poland Jerzy Kukuczka
Poland Artur Hajzer
153 58 42.85% 66% 19.7%
Gasherbrum I (also known as Hidden Peak) 8080 m Pakistan/China[4] 05 Jul 1958 United States Andrew Kauffman
United States Pete Schoening
265 25 9.43% 15.5% 8.75%
Broad Peak 8051 m China/Pakistan[4] 09 Jun 1957 Austria Fritz Wintersteller
Austria Marcus Schmuck
Austria Kurt Diemberger
Austria Hermann Buhl
359 19 5.29% 5% 8.6%
Gasherbrum II 8034 m China/Pakistan[4] 08 Jul 1956 Austria Fritz Moravec
Austria Josef Larch
Austria Hans Willenpart
836 19 2.27% 7.8% 0.44%
Shishapangma 8027 m China 02 May 1964 People's Republic of China Hsu Ching
People's Republic of China Chang Chun-yen
People's Republic of China Wang Fuzhou
People's Republic of China Chen San
People's Republic of China Cheng Tien-liang
People's Republic of China Wu Tsung-yue
People's Republic of China Sodnam Doji
People's Republic of China Migmar Trashi
People's Republic of China Doji
People's Republic of China Yonten
14 Jan 2005 Poland Piotr Morawski
Italy Simone Moro
274 23 8.39% 2% 16.8%

* As of September 2003, data from Chinese National Geography 2006.8, page 77.

Verified climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders[5]

Field 02 lists people who have peaked all 14 without bottled oxygen.

Order
accomplished
All without
O2 (order)
Name Period born at age Nationality
1 1 Reinhold Messner 1970-1986 1944 42 Italy Italian
2 Jerzy Kukuczka 1979-1987 1948 39 Poland Polish
3 2 Erhard Loretan 1982-1995 1959 36 Switzerland Swiss
4 Carlos Carsolio 1985-1996 1962 33 Mexico Mexican
5 Krzysztof Wielicki 1980-1996 1950 46 Poland Polish
6 3 Juanito Oiarzabal 1985-1999 1956 43 Spain Spanish
7 Sergio Martini 1983-2000 1949 51 Italy Italian
8 Young Seok Park 1993-2001 1963 38 South Korea Korean
9 Uhm Hong gil 1988-2001 1960[6] 40 South Korea Korean
10 4 Alberto Iñurrategi 1991-2002[7] 1968 33 Spain Spanish
11 Wang Yong Han 1994-2003 1966 37 South Korea Korean
12 5[8] Ed Viesturs 1989-2005 1959 46 United States American
13 6[9][10][11] Silvio Mondinelli 1993-2007 1958 49 Italy Italian
14 7[12] Ivan Vallejo 1997-2008 1959 49 Ecuador Ecuador
15 8 [13] Denis Urubko 2000-2009 1973 35 Kazakhstan Kazakhstan
16 Ralf Dujmovits 1990-2009 1961[14] 47 Germany German
17 9 Veikka Gustafsson 1993-2009 1968 41 Finland Finnish
18 10 Andrew Lock 1993-2009 1961[15] 48 Australia Australian

Disputed

Disputes occur when not enough evidence was provided to claim the climb up to the highest peak.

Name Period born at age Nationality
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990[16][17]) 1987-2005 1954 53 United Kingdom British
Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997[18]) 1983-1998 1952 46 Italy Italy
Vladislav Terzyul[19] 1993-2002(died) 1953 49 Ukraine Ukrainian



Climbers and 8000 peaks (As of August 7, 2009)

Flight over Khumbu-region; six eight-thousanders and some seven-thousanders (three identified) are visible

Source: Climbers with 10 to 14 MAIN 8000ers in www.8000ers.com at [1]

13 Fausto De Stefani (ITA)
13 Abele Blanc (ITA)
13 Christian Kuntner (ITA)
13 Alan Hinkes (UK)
13 Norbert Joos (SUI)
13 Piotr Pustelnik (POL)
13 Bianba Zaxi (CHN)
13 Cering Doje (CHN)
13 Luoze (CHN)
13 João Garcia (POR)
13 Oh Eun-Sun (KOR), female

12 Hans Kammerlander (ITA)
12 Félix Iñurrategi (ESP)--summited Gasherbrum II but died on descent
12 Vladislav Terzyul (UKR)--summited Makalu but died on descent
12 Rena (CHN)
12 Serguey Bogomolov (RUS)
12 Iñaki Ochoa de Olza (ESP)
12 Maxut Zhumayev (KAZ)
12 Vassili Pivtsov (KAZ)
12 Edurne Pasaban (ESP), female
12 Hirotaka Takeuchi (JPN)
12 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (AUT), female

11 Jean-Christophe Lafaille (FRA)
11 Nives Meroi (ITA), female
11 Romano Benet (ITA)
11 Serap Jangbu Sherpa (NEP)
11 Go Mi-Sun sometimes spelled Ko Mi Young (KOR), female--summited Nanga Parbat but died on descent

10 Benoit Chamoux (FRA)
10 Viktor Groselj (SLO)
10 Oh Hee-Jun (KOR)
10 Mario Panzeri (ITA)
10 Kim Jae-Soo (KOR)

Gallery

Notes

  1. ^ In making any "highest mountains" list, one needs to use a criterion to exclude subpeaks and only list independent mountains. There is no universally agreed-upon such criterion. However the (generally accepted) list of fourteen eight-thousanders is obtained if one uses a topographic prominence cutoff of between 200 and 500 metres (610 and 1524 feet). Some eight-thousand metre subpeaks have been climbed as goals in themselves, for example Lhotse Middle, but this is quite rare.
  2. ^ Geographical facts and first ascents information of the Main 8000ers http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/8000ers-mainmenu-205.html
  3. ^ http://www.8000ers.com/cms/download.html?func=startdown&id=184 Complete ascent - fatalities statistics of all 14 main 8000ers
  4. ^ a b c d The summits of K2, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak are on the de facto border between Pakistan and China along the "Karakoram" range. They are claimed by India. The most common ascent routes to the summits are largely via Pakistan, with some climbing from the China side.
  5. ^ climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders http://www.8000ers.com/cms/download.html?func=startdown&id=155
  6. ^ EverestNews2004.com, News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44), Mr. Um Hong Gil has bagged his 15th 8000 meter peak, http://www.kukuxumusu.com/web/news_nove1.php?id=36&lang=eng, retrieved 2008-11-30 
  7. ^ Kukuxumusu, Spanish News, 05/20/2002¬ Alberto Iñurrategi achieves his fourteenth "eight thousand meters", http://www.kukuxumusu.com/web/news_nove1.php?id=36&lang=eng, retrieved 2008-11-30 
  8. ^ Mounteverest.net, News, ...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen., Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Ed Viesturs and Christian Kuntner, http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1332, retrieved 2008-11-30 
  9. ^ Mounteverest.net, News, Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers - becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen., The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntse, http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17691, retrieved 2008-11-30 
  10. ^ PlanetMountain.com, News, 13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen., The day after: Silvio Mondinelli, Broad Peak and all 14 8000m summits, http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=35710, retrieved 2008-11-30 
  11. ^ Mounteverest.net, News, Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen., The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue, http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17248, retrieved 2008-11-30 
  12. ^ Mounteverest.net, News, ...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen., The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue, http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17248, retrieved 2008-11-30 
  13. ^ PlanetMountain.com, Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks, http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36767, retrieved 2009-05-18 
  14. ^ http://www.ralf-dujmovits.de/biografie.php
  15. ^ http://www.andrew-lock.com
  16. ^ AdventureStats.net, Official records. "Climbers that have summited 10 to 13 of the 14 Main-8000ers". http://www.adventurestats.com/tables/10-13_8000er.shtml. Retrieved 2008-11-30. 
  17. ^ MountEverest.net, News, under heading No Proof: Alan himself said later that he continued alone for one hour into the fog to find the true summit. He said that he "has no proof to have not been to the summit" and so he counts it a done deal. The statistician's didn't buy it, and Alan was deleted on all of the Cho Oyu lists.. "Alan Hinkes Kangchenjunga - 13 or 14?". http://www.mounteverest.net/story/AlanHinkesKangchenjunga-13or14May132005.shtml. Retrieved 2008-11-30. 
  18. ^ MountEverest.net, News. "Fausto de Stefani back for Lhotse – changes ahead on the 14x8,000ers summiteers’ list?". http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15925. Retrieved 2008-11-30. 
  19. ^ Russianclimb.com, Mountaineering World of Russia & CIS. "Vladislav Terzyul, List of ascents". http://www.russianclimb.com/persons/terzyul.html. Retrieved 2009-10-06. 

See also

External links