Eight-thousander
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The eight-thousanders are the fourteen independent[1] mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) high above sea level. They are all located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia.
The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander took place on the expedition by Albert F. Mummery, and J. Norman Collie to Nanga Parbat in the territory of Kashmir (in present day Pakistan Administered Kashmir) in 1895; this attempt failed as Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.
The first recorded successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on June 3, 1950.
The first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders was Reinhold Messner. He completed this task on October 16, 1986. A year later, in 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka became the second climber to accomplish this feat. As of 2009[update], a total of seventeen people have followed through undisputed. This is an extremely hazardous feat; at least four people have died while in pursuit of this goal. The man who has climbed the mountains of this category most times is Juanito Oiarzabal; a total of 23 times since 1985 to 2009.
List of eight-thousanders[2][3]
* As of September 2003, data from Chinese National Geography 2006.8, page 77.
Verified climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders[5]
Field 02 lists people who have peaked all 14 without bottled oxygen.
| Order accomplished |
All without O2 (order) |
Name | Period | born | at age | Nationality | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1 | Reinhold Messner | 1970-1986 | 1944 | 42 | ||
| 2 | Jerzy Kukuczka | 1979-1987 | 1948 | 39 | |||
| 3 | 2 | Erhard Loretan | 1982-1995 | 1959 | 36 | ||
| 4 | Carlos Carsolio | 1985-1996 | 1962 | 33 | |||
| 5 | Krzysztof Wielicki | 1980-1996 | 1950 | 46 | |||
| 6 | 3 | Juanito Oiarzabal | 1985-1999 | 1956 | 43 | ||
| 7 | Sergio Martini | 1983-2000 | 1949 | 51 | |||
| 8 | Young Seok Park | 1993-2001 | 1963 | 38 | |||
| 9 | Uhm Hong gil | 1988-2001 | 1960[6] | 40 | |||
| 10 | 4 | Alberto Iñurrategi | 1991-2002[7] | 1968 | 33 | ||
| 11 | Wang Yong Han | 1994-2003 | 1966 | 37 | |||
| 12 | 5[8] | Ed Viesturs | 1989-2005 | 1959 | 46 | ||
| 13 | 6[9][10][11] | Silvio Mondinelli | 1993-2007 | 1958 | 49 | ||
| 14 | 7[12] | Ivan Vallejo | 1997-2008 | 1959 | 49 | ||
| 15 | 8 [13] | Denis Urubko | 2000-2009 | 1973 | 35 | ||
| 16 | Ralf Dujmovits | 1990-2009 | 1961[14] | 47 | |||
| 17 | 9 | Veikka Gustafsson | 1993-2009 | 1968 | 41 | ||
| 18 | 10 | Andrew Lock | 1993-2009 | 1961[15] | 48 |
Disputed
Disputes occur when not enough evidence was provided to claim the climb up to the highest peak.
| Name | Period | born | at age | Nationality |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990[16][17]) | 1987-2005 | 1954 | 53 | |
| Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997[18]) | 1983-1998 | 1952 | 46 | |
| Vladislav Terzyul[19] | 1993-2002(died) | 1953 | 49 |
Climbers and 8000 peaks (As of August 7, 2009)
Source: Climbers with 10 to 14 MAIN 8000ers in www.8000ers.com at [1]
13 Fausto De Stefani (ITA)
13 Abele Blanc (ITA)
13 Christian Kuntner (ITA)
13 Alan Hinkes (UK)
13 Norbert Joos (SUI)
13 Piotr Pustelnik (POL)
13 Bianba Zaxi (CHN)
13 Cering Doje (CHN)
13 Luoze (CHN)
13 João Garcia (POR)
13 Oh Eun-Sun (KOR), female
12 Hans Kammerlander (ITA)
12 Félix Iñurrategi (ESP)--summited Gasherbrum II but died on descent
12 Vladislav Terzyul (UKR)--summited Makalu but died on descent
12 Rena (CHN)
12 Serguey Bogomolov (RUS)
12 Iñaki Ochoa de Olza (ESP)
12 Maxut Zhumayev (KAZ)
12 Vassili Pivtsov (KAZ)
12 Edurne Pasaban (ESP), female
12 Hirotaka Takeuchi (JPN)
12 Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (AUT), female
11 Jean-Christophe Lafaille (FRA)
11 Nives Meroi (ITA), female
11 Romano Benet (ITA)
11 Serap Jangbu Sherpa (NEP)
11 Go Mi-Sun sometimes spelled Ko Mi Young (KOR), female--summited Nanga Parbat but died on descent
10 Benoit Chamoux (FRA)
10 Viktor Groselj (SLO)
10 Oh Hee-Jun (KOR)
10 Mario Panzeri (ITA)
10 Kim Jae-Soo (KOR)
Gallery
Notes
- ^ In making any "highest mountains" list, one needs to use a criterion to exclude subpeaks and only list independent mountains. There is no universally agreed-upon such criterion. However the (generally accepted) list of fourteen eight-thousanders is obtained if one uses a topographic prominence cutoff of between 200 and 500 metres (610 and 1524 feet). Some eight-thousand metre subpeaks have been climbed as goals in themselves, for example Lhotse Middle, but this is quite rare.
- ^ Geographical facts and first ascents information of the Main 8000ers http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/8000ers-mainmenu-205.html
- ^ http://www.8000ers.com/cms/download.html?func=startdown&id=184 Complete ascent - fatalities statistics of all 14 main 8000ers
- ^ a b c d The summits of K2, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak are on the de facto border between Pakistan and China along the "Karakoram" range. They are claimed by India. The most common ascent routes to the summits are largely via Pakistan, with some climbing from the China side.
- ^ climbers who have reached the summit of all 14 eight-thousanders http://www.8000ers.com/cms/download.html?func=startdown&id=155
- ^ EverestNews2004.com, News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44), Mr. Um Hong Gil has bagged his 15th 8000 meter peak, http://www.kukuxumusu.com/web/news_nove1.php?id=36&lang=eng, retrieved 2008-11-30
- ^ Kukuxumusu, Spanish News, 05/20/2002¬ Alberto Iñurrategi achieves his fourteenth "eight thousand meters", http://www.kukuxumusu.com/web/news_nove1.php?id=36&lang=eng, retrieved 2008-11-30
- ^ Mounteverest.net, News, ...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen., Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Ed Viesturs and Christian Kuntner, http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1332, retrieved 2008-11-30
- ^ Mounteverest.net, News, Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers - becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen., The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntse, http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17691, retrieved 2008-11-30
- ^ PlanetMountain.com, News, 13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen., The day after: Silvio Mondinelli, Broad Peak and all 14 8000m summits, http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=35710, retrieved 2008-11-30
- ^ Mounteverest.net, News, Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen., The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue, http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17248, retrieved 2008-11-30
- ^ Mounteverest.net, News, ...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen., The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue, http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17248, retrieved 2008-11-30
- ^ PlanetMountain.com, Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks, http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36767, retrieved 2009-05-18
- ^ http://www.ralf-dujmovits.de/biografie.php
- ^ http://www.andrew-lock.com
- ^ AdventureStats.net, Official records. "Climbers that have summited 10 to 13 of the 14 Main-8000ers". http://www.adventurestats.com/tables/10-13_8000er.shtml. Retrieved 2008-11-30.
- ^ MountEverest.net, News, under heading No Proof: Alan himself said later that he continued alone for one hour into the fog to find the true summit. He said that he "has no proof to have not been to the summit" and so he counts it a done deal. The statistician's didn't buy it, and Alan was deleted on all of the Cho Oyu lists.. "Alan Hinkes Kangchenjunga - 13 or 14?". http://www.mounteverest.net/story/AlanHinkesKangchenjunga-13or14May132005.shtml. Retrieved 2008-11-30.
- ^ MountEverest.net, News. "Fausto de Stefani back for Lhotse – changes ahead on the 14x8,000ers summiteers’ list?". http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15925. Retrieved 2008-11-30.
- ^ Russianclimb.com, Mountaineering World of Russia & CIS. "Vladislav Terzyul, List of ascents". http://www.russianclimb.com/persons/terzyul.html. Retrieved 2009-10-06.
See also
- Seven Summits
- Seven Second Summits
- Volcanic Seven Summits
- Three Poles Challenge
- Explorers Grand Slam, also known as The Adventurers Grand Slam
External links
- Site dedicated to the 8000m peaks and mountaineers
- Pictures of 8'000 meter peaks
- Map in GeoFinder.ch showing the locations of the main summits