Fashion capital

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Escada Sport at Berlin Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2013

A fashion capital is a city which has a major influence on international fashion trends and in which the design, production and retailing of fashion products – plus events such as fashion weeks, awards and trade fairs – generate significant economic output.

Definition of a fashion capital[edit]

Fashion capitals usually have a broad mix of business, financial, entertainment, cultural and leisure activities and are internationally recognised for having a unique and strong identity.[1] It has also been noted that the status of a fashion capital has become increasingly linked to a city's domestic and international profile.[2] Fashion capitals are also likely be part of a wider design scene, with design schools, fashion magazines and a local market of affluent consumers.[2]

Often the term fashion capital is used to describe the cities that hold fashion weeks, most prominently Paris, Milan, London and New York,[3] as well as Berlin[4] — although many major cities host fashion events to showcase their industry.[5]

Court presentation dress by Charles Worth

History[edit]

Historically, several cities have been, in turn, fashion capitals. During the Renaissance era, different city-states in what would become modern-day Italy were Europe's main trendsetters,[6] due to the cultural power they exerted in that period of time; this includes cities such as Florence, Milan, Rome, Naples, Genoa, and Venice.

Progressing into the late-16th century, with influence of the English Royal Court, London became a major city in European fashion. Similarly, due to the power of Spain at the period, the Spanish court started to influence fashion, making it a major centre. In the 17th century, as the Renaissance started to fade away, with the power of the French court under Louis XIV, Paris established itself as Europe's main fashion centre.

During the 19th century, with the powerful British Empire and a young Queen Victoria on the throne (from 1837), London once again became a major fashion leader.[7] However, it continued to look to Paris for stylistic inspiration, and the British 'father of haute couture' Charles Frederick Worth relocated to Paris in 1846 to perfect and then commercialise his craft, also holding the first fashion shows and launching the concept of fashion labels there.[8]

20th century and beyond[edit]

New York's Garment District, 1955

During the Golden Twenties, the major city of Berlin was considered the vanguard fashion capital.[9]

See also: 1920s Berlin

Throughout the 20th century – but particularly after World War II – New York City rose in stature as a fashion capital, challenging the dominance of Paris with a different approach, especially in its development and popularisation of sportswear as fashion during the 1940s and '50s.[10]

During the 1950s Italy rose in prominence again.[11] Florence re-emerged as a leading city in haute couture,[12] although focus shifted to Milan from the 1970s on as leading design houses moved to the city.[13]

"Swinging London," Carnaby Street, c1966

In the 1980s, Tokyo claimed its place as a fashion capital with a new generation of avant-garde designers, including Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons gaining worldwide attention. The fashion was radically different in both its use of textiles and in the way designers cut and draped.[14][15]

More recently, new fashion hubs have emerged worldwide, and the old order has faced challenges from all corners of the globe, including Africa, Australasia and South America.[5] Since 2007, Berlin has been highlighted as an increasingly important centre for global fashion trends.[16][17]

A 2011 issue of Fashion Theory: Journal of Dress, Body and Culture explored the move away from the traditional dominance of five key cities (London, Milan, New York, Paris, Tokyo), with co-editor Lise Skov suggesting what she described as a "poly-centric" fashion industry developing in the 21st century.[10]

A 2010 Milan Fashion Week event

Annual fashion capital rankings[edit]

An annual ranking of the leading fashion capitals is produced by Global Language Monitor, a US-based company that tracks trends through language use worldwide. The current top-ten fashion capitals, according to its rankings, are listed below.[18]

Rank (2014) City Score
1 Flag of the United States.svg New York Increase 1
2 Flag of France.svg Paris Increase 2
3 Flag of the United Kingdom.svg London Decrease 2
4 Flag of Italy.svg Milan Decrease 4
5 Flag of the United States.svg Los Angeles Increase 5
6 Flag of Spain.svg Barcelona Decrease 2
7 Flag of Italy.svg Rome Steady
8 Flag of Germany.svg Berlin Increase 3
9 Flag of Australia.svg Sydney Increase 7
10 Flag of Belgium.svg Antwerp Increase 2

Source:[19] [20]

See also[edit]

  • Fashion week, for a partial list of cities with fashion weeks.

References[edit]

  1. ^ Gemperli, Natalia. "Fashion World Mapper: Your City on the Trend Radar". Master Thesis, University of the Arts Zurich. June, 2010.
  2. ^ a b Florida, Richard (7 September 2012). "The World's Leading Cities for Fashion". The Atlantic Cities. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  3. ^ Armstrong, Lisa (22 September 2013). "Is there a future for Fashion Week?". Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  4. ^ "Berlin as a fashion capital: the improbable rise". Fashion United UK. Retrieved 24 May 2014. 
  5. ^ a b staff (2 January 2011). "2011 top fashion weeks around the world: Paris, New York, Milan, Tokyo...". The Independent. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  6. ^ "Renaissance Fashion". Renaissance-spell.com. 2007-05-09. Retrieved 2013-02-07. 
  7. ^ Johnstone, Lucy. "Corsets & Crinoline in Victorian Fashion". V&A. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  8. ^ staff. "Worth". Vogue. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  9. ^ Schreiber, Mathias. "The Age of Excess: Berlin in the Golden Twenties". SPIEGEL. Retrieved 3 June 2014. 
  10. ^ a b "Fashioning the City: Exploring Fashion Cultures, Structures and Systems". Royal College of Art. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  11. ^ Fearon, Francesca (31 March 2014). "Exhibition at London's V&A Museum to chronicle rise of Italian Fashion". South China Morning Post. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  12. ^ "the birth of italian fashion". Gbgiorgini.it. Retrieved 2013-02-07. 
  13. ^ Bruzzi et al., Stella (2013). Fashion Cultures Revisited 2013. Abingdon, Oxon: Routledge. p. 23. 
  14. ^ "Japan Fashion Now". 2010-11. Fashion Institute of Technology. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  15. ^ "Miyake, Kawakubo, and Yamamoto: Japanese Fashion in the Twentieth Century". Metrolopolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  16. ^ Staff. "Germany's fashion capital: the improbable rise of Berlin". 17 January 2012. Fashion United. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  17. ^ Scholz, Kay-Alexander (18 January 2012). "The Phoenix of Fashion Rises in Berlin". Die Welt. Retrieved 2 May 2014. 
  18. ^ "New York Takes Top Global Fashion Capital Title from London, edging past Paris". Languagemonitor.com. Retrieved 25 February 2014. 
  19. ^ New York Regains Fashion Capital Crown from Milan Global Language Monitor Retrieved 2010-11-11
  20. ^ London Overtakes New York as Top Global Fashion Capital Global Language Monitor Retrieved August 17, 2011