Hotel barge

Anjodi crossing Cesse Aqueduct on the Canal du Midi

The Hotel Barge (fr. Péniche Hôtel) came into being following the decline in commercial and freight carriage on the canals of Europe. Many working barges have been converted into floating hotels of varying degrees of luxury. This trend began in the 1960s and has now grown into a network of hotel barges operating on the canals and rivers of France, Belgium, Holland, Germany and the UK.

History

When referring to travelling on the Canal du Midi in southern France Thomas Jefferson, then ambassador to France before he became the third President of the United States, wrote to a friend almost 200 years before canal vacations became popular saying "You should not think of returning to America without taking this tour I have taken". However, the practice of converting large barges (i.e. barges generally designed to fit into the locks of canals with minimal remaining volume) only began in 1966 with the Barge Palinurus, converted from carrying coal and captained by Richard Parsons on the canals of the Burgundy region of France. At the time the barge was equipped to take 20 passengers, with only one bath, two showers and two toilets shared between them, cruising on the River Yonne and the Canal de Bourgogne (Burgundy Canal).

The popularity of cruises, particularly amongst American clients, on this new type of boat was improved significantly thanks to the American writer Emily Kimborough and her book 'Floating Island' published in 1968, all about her experiences aboard the Palinurus. The high standards of accommodation expected by American clients rapidly drove the levels of luxury aboard hotel barges upwards. In 1969 Richard Parsons teamed up with Guy Bardet to launch Continental Waterways, a company that eventually ran 15 hotel barges in France.

Three decades later and the market for luxury vacations on floating hotels has grown even further, with over 300 cabins and 70 hotel barges available on French canals alone. In recent years the market has seen significantly increased custom from British, Australian, New Zealander and Russian clients, equalling those from the United States. In part this might be due to American sensitivities post-9/11, post-Iraq and for economic reasons but Europe (and France in particular) remains as safe, friendly and attractive as it has always been.

Hotel barging

Saint Louis crossing Agen aqueduct on the Canal de Garonne

Luxury Hotel barges have been cruising in Europe for over 30 years and are felt by many of their clients to provide an enjoyable, relaxing and luxurious way of experiencing countryside scenery, towns and villages. The great majority of boats are to be found in France, but there are also hotel barges operating in Ireland, England, Scotland, Germany, Holland, Belgium and Italy. The French 'Classic' routes ( Burgundy, the Loire Valley and the Canal du Midi) are the busiest, having the most hotel barges operating, together with an appreciable number of hire boats and private pleasure craft. However, hotel barges are to be found working almost all of France’s waterways, including the quieter and lesser-known canals – these present an alternative to the busier routes. Most waterways (rivers and canals) remain unspoilt and key attractions of hotel barging are peace and quiet, comfort and relaxation in attractive surroundings.

Hotel barges normally travel for a part of the day, between town ports or more informal moorings. Most cruise on Europe's extensive canal network (8,500km in France alone) but a few visit or operate on rivers. Cruise itineraries will have been developed to provide clients with a rich mixture of scenic quality, history and interest. Many barges will also provide excursions to visit local sights (for example, vineyards, restaurants, artisan workshops, markets or castles), most according to a pre-arranged schedule others entirely according to the wishes and interests of particular guests. Most barges will provide bicycles for guests for more informal explorations.

Hotel barge types

Hotel barges vary widely in size, in configuration, in the scale and quality of their accommodation, and in the standard and amount of catering. At the larger end, there are barges that take 24 guests, at the smaller, just four. All hotel barges have a high staff to guest ratio, but it would be natural for the more intimate boats to provide a greater degree of personal attention and possibly personal comfort. A few hotel barges (six or eight guests) are 'static' and remain at their one place of mooring. A unique proposition is offered by one professional working barge, which offers comfortable modern accommodation for two - and the opportunity to see a 'real barge' in action.

Regulations and hotel barges

Hotel barges have to comply with a number of legal requirements, including those in France being scrutinised by the Commission de Surveillance inspectorate. The barge has to have a qualified pilot in control that has the following credentials:

• A 'GP' Grande Plaisance licence (this has replaced the former 'PP' Péniche Plaisance licence).
  This tests the pilot's thorough knowledge of waterways regulations and practicalities, together with an examination of barge handling skills. The test can only be carried out at a recognised school.
• A 'Passager' licence (Certificat de Capacité commercial licence with a “Passager” endorsement).
  This licence to carry paying guests is obtainable only after four years of practical barge operation experience.
• An 'ASP' Attestation Spéciale Passagers.
  At least one person (skipper or crew) must have this certificate, which requires knowledge of proper equipment operation, safety procedures and first aid.

The vessel itself will be certified for certain category of waterway, ranging from the straightforward to major rivers such as the Seine or Rhone to tidal coastal waters. It will be required to have appropriate insurance cover and be surveyed at regular intervals.

Catering and facilities

From a food and drink point of view, hotel barges vary from those offering straightforward Bed and Breakfast services, to those also providing Lunch, to Full Service. At least one hotel barge offers self-catering. At the best Five Star level, barges will have a qualified and experienced chef on board able to prepare and serve cuisine of an internationally high standard, from daily fresh local ingredients - and with an accompanying selection of local wines and spirits. The opportunity to dine well - and healthily - is another reason many clients say that they choose a barge hotel experience. Some barges - particularly the smaller owner operated ones - welcome guests with dietary preferences or requirements, for example kosher, halal, vegetarian, vegan, no starch or low carbohydrate diets and maintain their high standards within those disciplines. Whilst some barges provide a thoroughly enjoyable straightforward experience, offering good value for money, a completely bespoke personal service is a feature of the top-end hotel barges.

Hotel barges provide guest rooms (cabins) of a luxurious standard, with en-suite bathrooms. They will normally also include a saloon (lounge) and dining room, and an open sun deck with appropriate furniture. Some barges also feature Jacuzzis, hot tubs and small plunge pools on deck (although these are not always well used by guests, being somewhat exposed to the public gaze). Many barges, especially those operating in Southern France, are air-conditioned. Many hotel barges provide mobile internet access whilst on board.

Booking a hotel barge

The traditional route for selecting a hotel barge from the many that are available has been to use the services of a specialist broker. Often based in the USA, but with a number in Britain and France, brokers represent a selection of boats. The best brokers will know their portfolio of barges very well, having personally inspected them, understanding what they offer guests and consequently able to advise potential clients which would be best suited for their vacation and to manage the booking process. Brokers receive a commission of between 10% and 35% for these services.

In recent years, as is the case throughout the travel - and other - sectors, it has become increasingly easy to find information, make comparisons, make enquiries and make bookings via the internet. Potential clients can identify and make contact direct with potential hotel barges, or specialist brokers representing them, many of which will be owner operated.

Direct contact with barge owners or operators can prove an excellent 'litmus test' of the operator's commitment to customer service, measured by speed of response, efficiency and interest in accurately understanding, and meeting, client needs and delivering the personal attention that is a significant ingredient in a successful hotel barge vacation. However the experience and knowledge of a specialist broker can be invaluable when making comparisons between barges, or for discovering possible cruise options that may not have even been initially considered. As with any high value leisure purchase it is always important that potential clients and suppliers can discuss and agree features of the product that can be tailored to client interests - for example, places visited or culinary likes and dislikes.

Larger hotel barges are booked by the room, for the cruise itinerary and the cruising hotel is shared with other guests. Smaller boats are usually chartered as a whole, meaning friends or family share the experience together as a private party.

Some hotel barges

• Anjodi
• Enchanté
• La Belle Epoque
• La Dolce Vita
• La Renaissance
• L'Art de Vivre
• L'Impressionniste
• Magna Carta
• Nymphea
• Rosa
• Saint Louis
• Scottish Highlander

References

(1) France Today Magazine Article "Once Upon a French Canal" [1]

External links

• Hotel Barges in France Directory of hotel barges, fleet operators and brokers
• Barge related regulations
• Go Barging Fleet operator's website
• The Barge Company Broker's website
• The Barge Connection Broker's website