Hubert de Givenchy
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| Hubert de Givenchy | |
|---|---|
| Born | February 21, 1927 Beauvais, France |
| Nationality | French |
| Education | École des Beaux-Arts |
| Occupation | Fashion designer |
| Awards |
Chevalier de la Légion d'honneur Medal of l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres |
| Labels | Givenchy |
Count Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy (pronounced [y.bɛʁ də ʒi.vã.ʃi], born 21st of February 1927) is a French aristocrat and fashion designer who founded The House of Givenchy in 1952. He is famous for having designed much of the personal and professional wardrobe of Audrey Hepburn, as well as clothing for clients such as Jacqueline Kennedy. He was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1970.[1]
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[edit] Early life
The younger son of Lucien Taffin de Givenchy (1888–1930), marquis of Givenchy, and his wife, the former Béatrice ("Sissi") Badin (1888–1976), Givenchy was born in Beauvais, Oise.
The Taffin family, which traces its roots to Venice, Italy (the original surname was Taffini), has been ennobled in 1713, at which time the head of the family became marquis of Givenchy.
After his father's death from influenza in 1930, the future fashion designer and his elder brother Jean-Claude de Givenchy (1925–2009), who inherited the family's marquessate and eventually became the president of Parfums Givenchy, were raised by their mother and maternal grandmother, Marguerite Dieterle Badin (1853–1940), the widow of Jules Badin (1843–1919), an artist who was the director of the historic Gobelins and Beauvais tapestry factories. Artistic professions ran in the extended Badin family. Givenchy's maternal great-grandfather, Jules Dieterle, was a set designer who also created designs for the Beauvais factory, including a set of 13 designs for the Elysée Palace. One of his great-great-grandfathers also designed sets for the Paris Opera.
[edit] Career
Impressed by the 1937 World's Fair in Paris, young Givenchy decided he wanted to work "somewhere in fashion design". He studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris. His first designs were done for Jacques Fath in 1945, an association that came through family members who knew Fath personally. Later he did designs for Robert Piguet and Lucien Lelong (1946) — working alongside the still-unknown Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior. From 1947 to 1951 he worked for the avantgarde designer Elsa Schiaparelli.
In 1952, Givenchy opened his own design house at the Plaine Monceau in Paris. Later he named his first collection "Bettina Graziani" for Paris's top model at the time. His style was marked by innovativeness, contrary to the more conservative designs by Dior. At 25, he was the youngest designer of the progressive Paris fashion scene. His first collections were characterized by the use of rather cheap fabrics for financial reasons, but they always piqued curiosity through their design. Audrey Hepburn, later the most prominent proponent of Givenchy's fashion, and Givenchy met in 1953 during the shoot of Sabrina. He went on to design almost all the wardrobe she wore in her movies. He also developed his first perfume collection for her (L'Interdit and Le de Givenchy). At that time, Givenchy also met his idol, Cristóbal Balenciaga, who had also influenced Paco Rabanne's work previously. Although a renowned designer, Givenchy not only sought inspiration from the lofty settings of haute couture but also in such avant-garde environments as Limbo, the store in Manhattan's East Village.[2]
In 1954, Givenchy's prêt-à-porter collection debuted; later a men's line was also launched.
The House of Givenchy was split in 1981, with the perfume line going to Veuve Clicquot, while the fashion branch went to LVMH's portfolio of upscale brands. As of today, LVMH owns Parfums Givenchy as well.
[edit] Famous clients
- Donna Marella Agnelli
- Lauren Bacall
- Ingrid Bergman
- Countess Mona von Bismarck
- Sunny von Bülow
- Marlene Dietrich
- Greta Garbo
- Gloria Guinness
- Dolores Guinness
- Audrey Hepburn
- Jane Holzer
- Grace Kelly
- Rachel Lambert Mellon
- Jeanne Moreau
- Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis
- Empress Farah Pahlavi
- Babe Paley
- Lee Radziwill
- Comtesse Jacqueline de Ribes
- Baroness Pauline de Rothschild
- Frederica von Stade
- Baroness Gaby Van Zuylen van Nijevelt
- Diana Vreeland
- Betsey Cushing Roosevelt Whitney
- Duchess of Windsor
- Jayne Wrightsman
[edit] Later life
Hubert de Givenchy retired from fashion design in 1995. His chosen successor to head the Givenchy label was Dominique Sirop, but Bernard Arnault, head of LVMH, thought Sirop was not well-known enough and appointed John Galliano instead. After a brief stint by Galliano, a five-year stay from Alexander McQueen and a term from 2001 to 2004 by Julien Macdonald, Givenchy women's ready-to-wear and haute couture has been headed by Riccardo Tisci since 2005.
In January 2007, La Poste issued postage stamps for the St. Valentine's Day designed by Givenchy.
Givenchy stands 1.98 m (6 ft 6 in) tall.[3]
[edit] Bibliography
- Pamela Clarke Keogh, Hubert de Givenchy (introduction): Audrey style (1999), Aurum Press. ISBN 1-85410-645-7
- Jean-Noël Liaut: Hubert de Givenchy : Entre vies et légendes (2000), Editions Grasset & Fasquelle. ISBN 2-246-57991-0
[edit] References
- ^ Vanity Fair
- ^ Vogue (15th of February 1966)
- ^ Town & Country, August 2006, page 119.
[edit] External links
- "Official Givenchy Site". Givenchy. http://www.givenchy.com/.
- Hubert de Givenchy designer profile at Fashion Model Directory
- "Hubert de Givenchy - 'Les Muguets' (Lily of the Valley)". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/exhibHighMuguets.php. Retrieved 2007-11-13.
- "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/vastatic/microsites/1486_couture/explore.php.
