Ian Clough

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Ian Clough (1937-1970) was a British mountaineer who was killed on an expedition to climb the south face of the Himalayan massif Annapurna.

Climbing career[edit]

Clough was born in the Yorkshire town of Baildon, near Bradford, and grew up to become one of the best British climbers of his generation. He made many difficult ascents in the Alps, including the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney on Mont Blanc with Don Whillans, Chris Bonington and Jan Długosz in 1961 and the first British ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, with Bonington in 1962. He climbed widely in Britain too, publishing a guide to the Scottish Highlands in 1969, and in 1968 he and fellow mountaineer Tom Patey were the first to climb Am Buachaille, a sea stack at Sandwood Bay off the Scottish coast of Sutherland.[1] Two years later, both Clough and Patey died in separate climbing accidents within five days of one another. When Clough died on May 30, 1970, he would have been unaware Patey had been killed abseiling down another Scottish sea stack on May 25. Clough's wife Niki Clough, who later died of cancer, was also a mountaineer and climbed the north face of the Matterhorn with her husband.

Expedition to Annapurna[edit]

In 1970, Clough took part in the expedition to Annapurna led by Chris Bonington, but after the successful ascent of the south face by Dougal Haston and Don Whillans he was killed by a falling sérac (ice-pillar) on the mountain's lower slopes. Bonington dedicated his book Annapurna South Face (1971) with the words "To IAN CLOUGH, who gave so much", and a meeting-place and arts venue in Clough's hometown of Baildon was named "Ian Clough Hall" in his honour.

1999 Memorial[edit]

In November 1999 a brass plaque was erected in Clough's memory at Annapurna base camp. The text of the plaque reads:

IN MEMORY OF
IAN CLOUGH
MEMBER OF THE 1970 CHRIS BONINGTON EXPEDITION
ANNAPURNA SOUTH FACE
KILLED ON DESCENT IN THE ICE FALL
NOVEMBER 1999

The plaque was commissioned by Kelvin Kent, who had been base camp manager on the expedition. An earlier memorial at the site is an inscription reading "Ian Clough, killed May 30, 1970", cut into rock shortly after Clough's death with an accompanying message in a local language.

References[edit]

  1. ^ Sandwood Bay on walkhighlands.co.uk

Bibliography[edit]

  • Ben Nevis and Glencoe, Ian Clough 1965
  • Winter Climbs: Ben Nevis and Glencoe, Ian Clough (ed. Alan Kimber) 1981
  • Annapurna South Face, Chris Bonington 1971 (book dedicated to Clough's memory)

External links[edit]