Ilkley

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Coordinates: 53°55′30″N 1°49′19″W / 53.925°N 1.822°W / 53.925; -1.822

Ilkley
IlkleyTownHall.jpg
Ilkley Town Hall
Ilkley is located in West Yorkshire
Ilkley
Ilkley
 Ilkley shown within West Yorkshire
Population 13,828 (2001 Census)
OS grid reference SE116477
Civil parish Ilkley
Metropolitan borough City of Bradford
Metropolitan county West Yorkshire
Region Yorkshire and the Humber
Country England
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Post town ILKLEY
Postcode district LS29
Dialling code 01943
Police West Yorkshire
Fire West Yorkshire
Ambulance Yorkshire
EU Parliament Yorkshire and the Humber
UK Parliament Keighley
List of places
UK
England
Yorkshire

Ilkley is a spa town and civil parish in West Yorkshire, in Northern England. Historically part of the West Riding of Yorkshire, Ilkley civil parish includes the adjacent village of Ben Rhydding and is a ward within the metropolitan borough of Bradford. Approximately 12 miles (19 km) north of Bradford and 17 miles (27 km) northwest of Leeds, the town lies mainly on the south bank of the River Wharfe in Wharfedale, one of the Yorkshire Dales. The parish has a population of 13,828 (census 2001).[1]

Ilkley's spa town heritage and surrounding countryside make tourism an important local industry. The town centre is characterised by Victorian architecture, wide streets and floral displays. Ilkley Moor, to the south of the town, is the subject of a folk song, often described as the unofficial anthem of Yorkshire, "On Ilkla Moor Baht 'at". The song's words are written in Yorkshire dialect, its title translated as "On Ilkley Moor without a hat."

History[edit]

Main article: History of Ilkley
Bronze Age markings at Hangingstone Quarry, above Ilkley

The earliest evidence of habitation in the Ilkley area is flint arrowheads or microliths, dating to the Mesolithic period, from about 11,000 BC onwards.[2] The area around Ilkley has been continuously settled since at least the early Bronze Age, around 1800 BC; more than 250 cup and ring marks, and a curved swastika carving dating to the period have been found on rock outcrops,[3] and archaeological remains of dwellings are found on Ilkley Moor. A druidical stone circle, the Twelve Apostles Stone Circle, was constructed 2,000 years ago.[2] Serious interest in the rock art of Ilkley began after the publication in 1879, by Romilly Allen, of "The Prehistoric Rock Sculptures of Ilkley" in The Journal of the British Archaeological Association.[3]

The remains of a Roman fort exist on a site near the town centre. A number of authorities believe that the fort is Olicana,[4] dating to 79 AD, but the identification is not settled. A number of Roman altars have been discovered dating to the reigns of Antoninus Pius (138 to 161), and Septimius Severus and his son Caracalla (211 to 217).[5]

Three Anglo-Saxon crosses formerly in the churchyard of All Saints', but now inside the church to prevent erosion, date to the 8th century. The site of the church as a centre for Christian worship extends to 627 AD, and the present mainly Victorian-era church incorporated medieval elements.[6]

The Domesday Book, of 1086, records Ilkley (Ilecliue/Illecliue/Illiclei/Illicleia) as being in the possession of William de Percy 1st Baron Percy.[7] The land was acquired by the Middelton family of Myddelton Lodge, from about a century after the time of William the Conqueror. The family lost possession through a series of land sales and mortgage repossessions over a period of about a hundred years from the early 19th century.[8] The agents of William Middelton (1815–1885) were responsible for the design of the new town of Ilkley to replace the village which had stood there before.[9]

In the 17th and 18th centuries the town gained a reputation for the efficacy of its water. In the 19th century it became established as a fashionable spa town, with the construction of Ben Rhydding Hydro, a hydropathic establishment at Wheatley, a mile to the east, between 1843 and 1844.[10][11] Charles Darwin underwent hydropathic treatment at Wells House when his book On the Origin of Species was published on 24 November 1859, whilst staying with his family at North View House (now Hillside Court).[12] Tourists flocked to 'take the waters' and bathe in the cold-water spring. Wheatley was renamed Ben Rhydding after the Hydro, which has been demolished.

The Manor House, Ilkley

Development based on the Hydro movement, and on the establishment of a number of convalescent homes and hospitals, was accelerated in August 1865 by the construction of the railway, the Otley and Ilkley Joint Railway, to the Leeds and Bradford Railway and the North Eastern Railway.[13][14][15] A further connection was made in May 1888, by the Midland Railway, to Skipton via Bolton Abbey.[14]

Other Victorian visitors to the town include Madame Tussaud.[16] Today, the only remaining hydro building is the white cottage known as White Wells House. The cottage can be seen and visited on the edge of the moor overlooking the town.[17]

Governance[edit]

The town is governed by Ilkley Parish Council. Although Ilkley is a town and has a town hall, the parish council has not exercised its right to be called a town council. The parish consists of four wards and 14 councillors: Ilkley North (3 councillors), Ilkley South (3), Ilkley West (4) and Ben Rhydding (4).[18] The council raises a precept which is collected with the annual Council Tax to fund its running and to aid the development of local projects.[18] The parish is a ward within the metropolitan borough of the City of Bradford and is represented by three Conservative councillors.[19]

Ilkley is part of the Keighley UK Parliament constituency whose seat is held by Kris Hopkins, Conservative MP,[20] who replaced Ann Cryer and was elected in the 2010 general election. Ann Cryer was first elected in the General Election of 1997, and her late husband Bob Cryer held the seat between 1974 and 1983.[21] Ilkley is in the Yorkshire and the Humber European constituency.[20]

Before 1974 Ilkley was an urban district, a type of local government district.[22] Ilkley Urban District Council shared local government responsibilities with the West Riding County Council.[23] The Local Government Act 1972 dissolved urban districts and in 1974 Ilkley adopted its current status as a ward of the metropolitan borough of the City of Bradford. Services provided by the urban district council are now run centrally by the City of Bradford Metropolitan District Council.

Until 2006 Ilkley civil parish consisted of Ilkley ward, which includes Ben Rhydding, and the north half of Rombalds ward. The latter ward housed the villages of Burley-in-Wharfedale and Menston. The population of the parish in 2001 was therefore considerably higher than it is today, consisting of 24,954 residents. In 2006 Burley-in-Wharfedale and Menston established their own parishes and today Ilkley consists only of Ilkley ward (13,828 residents).

Geography[edit]

The Old Bridge, Ilkley
Early winter snowfall on Railway Road in the town centre

Nearby are the North Yorkshire hamlets of Middleton (1 mile (1.6 km)), Denton (2.7 miles (4.3 km)) and Bolton Abbey (6 miles (9.7 km)); the villages of Addingham (3.1 miles (5.0 km)), Burley-in-Wharfedale (3.8 miles (6.1 km)) and Menston (5.4 miles (8.7 km)); and the towns of Guiseley (7.6 miles (12.2 km)) and Skipton (9.4 miles (15.1 km)).

The town is within the travel-to-work radius of Leeds and Bradford, Leeds is 18 miles (29 km) away and Bradford 15.6 miles (25.1 km) by road, with a railway connection offering about 35 trains to each destination per day from Ilkley station. The railway, before the Beeching axe, also connected to Addingham, Bolton Abbey, and Skipton to the west, and to Otley, Pool-in-Wharfedale, meeting the main Leeds to Harrogate line at Arthington.[24]

The town partially straddles the River Wharfe in a valley, rising from the river at 230 feet (70 m) to 650 feet (200 m) above sea level, up Ilkley Moor (a bracken and heather covered moorland, with rocky outcrops, to the south) and to 540 feet (160 m) across Middleton Woods in the north.The river runs through the northern extent of the town from west to east, and is crossed by four bridges, in order: a 16th-century three-arched stone bridge, now closed to road traffic; a 19th-century single-span wrought-iron bridge; a suspension bridge for foot traffic only (a set of concrete stepping stones) and a prefabricated steel arched box-girder bridge. The river is prone to flooding the sports fields (and a few houses) that occupy the watermeadows.[25]

Demographics[edit]

A person from Ilkley is called an Olicanian which is derived from Olicana, thought to be the name of the Roman fort Ilkley is built upon. The ethnic make-up of Ilkley's population is 98.02% White, 0.74% mixed, 0.72% Asian, 0.37% Chinese or other ethnic group and 0.14% Black. The largest age group is 45 to 59-year olds (20.73%).[26]

Economy[edit]

Ilkley compared
2001 UK Census Ilkley[27] Bradford (borough)[28] England
Population of working age 9,224 326,778 35,532,091
Full-time employment 37.4% 37.7% 40.8%
Part-time employment 12.6% 11.9% 11.8%
Self-employed 11.9% 6.8% 8.3%
Unemployed 1.8% 4.4% 3.3%
Retired 20.0% 12.8% 13.5%

The town is a tourist destination and is used as a base from which to explore the famous moor and the countryside beyond. Ilkley is a shopping town that sells everything from game, fine wine, expensive fashions and fine art. The Victorian parades of The Grove and Brook Street have a selection of speciality shops. The town's original Victorian arcade has been restored as an indoor shopping walkway complete with a fountain and hanging baskets. Bettys, the Yorkshire tea room, has a shop in the town.[29] Ilkley has little by way of industry or commerce but employers include The Woolmark Company, Spooner Industries and NG Bailey. The town is also home to two breweries, Ilkley Brewery situated on the outskirts and Wharfedale Brewery which is housed within the grounds of a former eighteenth-century farmhouse in the town centre.

According to the 2001 UK census, the industry of employment of residents aged 16–74 was 18.8% property and business services, 14.8% retail and wholesale, 13.4% education, 13.1% health and social work, 9.6% manufacturing, 5.7% finance, 4.8% construction, 4.8% public administration, 4.4% hotels and restaurants, 4.2% transport and communications, 0.6% energy and water supply, 0.5% agriculture, 0.1% mining, and 5.2% other. Compared with national figures, Ilkley town had a relatively high percentage of residents working in education and health and social work. The town had a relatively low percentage working in transport and communication and manufacturing.[30] The census recorded the economic activity of residents aged 16–74, 2.2% students were with jobs, 3.7% students without jobs, 5.8% looking after home or family, 2.7% permanently sick or disabled, and 1.8% economically inactive for other reasons.[27] Ilkley's 1.8% unemployment rate was low compared with the national rate of 3.3%. The City of Bradford has a relatively low proportion of people who were self-employed compared to the whole of England, but Ilkley's rate of 11.9% was well above both the district and national figures.[28]

Transport[edit]

Ilkley lies on the A65 road, which runs between Leeds and Kendal. The nearest substantial motorways are the M62 at Bradford, and the M1 at Leeds, and the A1(M) at Wetherby. The civil parish is served by two railway stations: Ilkley terminus[31] and Ben Rhydding.[32] These are linked by the Wharfedale Line upon which trains run between Ilkley and Leeds/Bradford Forster Square stations.[33]

From Ilkley bus station services run to Bradford, Keighley, Skipton, Malham and Otley. The main operators are First Leeds, Jacksons, Transdev Keighley and District and Pride of the Dales.[34] Ilkley's nearest airport is Leeds Bradford International Airport.

Sport[edit]

There is a wide variety of sports clubs and facilities in and around Ilkley. Notable clubs include the Ilkley Lawn Tennis and Squash Club, founded in 1880,[35] which hosts an Ilkley Squash Open that has attracted world-class players such as Peter Barker;[36] Ilkley Golf Club, Yorkshire's third oldest golf club founded in 1890,[37] and where Colin Montgomerie for some years practised the game;[38] Ilkley Rugby Club;[39] and Ilkley Harriers Athletics Club.[40] There are a number of football, rugby and hockey teams. Ilkley Cricket Club[41] play in the Aire-Wharfe League.[42] The nearby Ben Rhydding Sports Club in Ben Rhydding is the home of Ben Rhydding Hockey Club, founded in 1901,[43] and Ben Rhydding Cricket Club. An Ilkley Karate club is run by former UK champion Mark Outterside.[44]

Public facilities include indoor and outdoor swimming pools, and outdoor tennis courts at Ilkley's Lido. Constructed in 1935, it is one of only four public open-air swimming pools in Yorkshire[45] and is a tourist attraction during the summer holiday season.[46]

Cycling races[edit]

The town has seen a number of high-profile international cycle races pass through. The climb up to Ilkley Moor is normally the reason for the races to visit as it presents a short but challenging climb. For three consecutive years between 1994 and 1996, the climb was used as part of the Leeds Classic, which was part of the World Cup series of events.[47] In both 2005 and 2007, the town hosted stages of The Tour of Britain race, with Ilkley Moor being a categorised climb on each occasion.[48][49] In 2014, the town had its biggest cycling moment to date when the Tour de France passed through. The route approached the town on the A65 from Otley and passed through the town centre along the A65.[50]

Culture and attractions[edit]

Cow and Calf rocks
Old suspension bridge spanning the Wharfe in Ilkley.
Vibrant cherry blossoms adorn the river bank close to the town centre.

Ilkley town centre is a tourist attraction with a high number of small independent shops. Of particular note is Lishman's of Ilkley, an award-winning butcher shop whose owner, David Lishman, became one of Rick Stein's superheroes in 2003.[51] Ilkley is one of five towns to feature a Bettys tearoom and is home to the Michelin-starred Box Tree restaurant[52] where Marco Pierre White trained. In 1991 Ilkley won the Entente Florale and in 1990 and 2004 the Britain in Bloom contest in the category of 'Town'. In 2006 Ilkley became a Fairtrade Town.[53]

The Manor House, one of the town's oldest buildings, houses a museum and art gallery. The museum contains prehistoric artefacts and documents the Roman fort of Olicana – remains of which are exposed at the back of the building – as well as the rise of Ilkley as a Victorian spa town.[54] Ilkley Toy Museum has a collection of toys dating from 350 BC and a collection of English wooden dolls.[55]

The Grove, Ilkley's principal shopping street, designed with wide pavements for promenading

Ilkley's rural surroundings attract walkers and cyclists to the area. The landmark Cow and Calf rocks, which overlook the town on Ilkley Moor, consist of a large outcrop, which allegedly imitates a cow, and a boulder, which imitates a calf. The site is also visited for its rock climbing routes.[56] The Old Bridge just outside the town centre is the official start to the Dales Way, an 84-mile (135 km) walk through the dales to Bowness-on-Windermere in the Lake District.[57]

Darwin Gardens, to the south of the town, is a Millennium Green which commemorates the town's links with English naturalist Charles Darwin. The Green features a maze, whose design was influenced by the Swastika Stone carving, and includes monuments with an evolutionary theme.[58]

Ilkley is home to the largest and oldest literary festival in the north of England, the Ilkley Literature Festival.[59] The 1984 British comedy film A Private Function, written by Alan Bennett, was filmed in Ilkley and Ben Rhydding.[60] The town was also one of the locations used for the 2003 British comedy film Calendar Girls.[61] The Ilkley Gazette is the town's weekly newspaper.

A complementary medicine festival has been held in Ilkley since 1988 and is currently held twice a year, attracting 2,000 visitors.[62]

Since 1969 Ilkley has been twinned with Coutances in France.[63][64]

Education[edit]

Schools[edit]

A free school was first established in Ilkley by a Mr Marshall who in 1608 bequeathed £100 for its endowment.[65] Current schools include four primary schools, All Saints' C of E Primary School,[66] Ashlands Primary School,[67] Ben Rhydding Primary School,[68] Sacred Heart Catholic Primary School, Ben Rhydding;[69] two preparatory schools, Moorfield School,[70] Westville House School, Middleton;[71] and one secondary, Ilkley Grammar School.[72]

Higher education[edit]

In 1975, David Gayle founded the Yorkshire Ballet Seminars which brought distinguished names in dance, like Alicia Markova, to Ilkley College of Education.[73] In 1978, Ilkley College of Education merged with Bingley College of Education to become Ilkley College. In 1982, Ilkley College merged with Bradford College to become Bradford and Ilkley Community College.[74] In 1999, the Ilkley campus of Bradford and Ilkley Community College closed despite opposition. The campus had occupied a 15.64 acres (6.33 ha) site at Wells House, which was sold for housing after its closure.[75]

Religion[edit]

All Saints' Parish Church

According to Census 2001, 75.64% of Ilkley residents are Christian. The second largest group are people with no religion who account for 15.53% of residents. 7.48% did not state their religion and 1.34% fall into a variety of other religious groups.[1]

Places of worship[edit]

Ilkley's medieval parish church All Saints', largely reconstructed in the Victorian era, houses artefacts of the site's ancient Christian heritage including three Saxon crosses[6] and today operates within the Anglican Communion. An expanding congregation in the 19th century triggered plans in 1873 for a second church which became St Margaret's Church, designed by Richard Norman Shaw and completed in 1879.[76] Worship at the church is conducted in the Anglo-Catholic tradition[77] and in 2005 was led by David Hope, Baron Hope of Thornes. When the Archbishop of York resigned he became vicar at Ilkley until his retirement in 2006.[78]

Other places of worship in Ilkley include Ben Rhydding Methodist Church (Methodist), Christchurch (Methodist/United Reformed), Ilkley Baptist Church (Baptist), Kingdom Hall, Ilkley (Jehovah's Witnesses), St John's Parish Church, Ben Rhydding (Anglican), The Church of the Sacred Heart (Roman Catholic) and The Ilkley Society of Friends (Quaker). Churches Together in Ilkley exists to encourage co-operation amongst member churches.[79]

Location grid[edit]


See also[edit]

References[edit]

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  2. ^ a b Abraham, John (2006). "Discovering Prehistory on Ilkley Moor". TimeTravel-Britain.com. Retrieved 11 June 2009. 
  3. ^ a b Beckensall, S. (2009). Prehistoric Rock Art in Britain. Chalford: Amberley Publishing. ISBN 978-1-84868-626-7. 
  4. ^ Shaw, Thomas (1830). The History of Wharfedale, Otley: William Walker, p.70
  5. ^ Shaw, Thomas (1830). The History of Wharfedale, Otley: William Walker, pp.72–5
  6. ^ a b "Brief History of All Saints – Ilkley". Retrieved 7 May 2011. 
  7. ^ Carpenter, David (18 February 1993). "Ilkley a 'Ghost Town' in 1086". Ilkley Gazette. Retrieved 11 January 2007. 
  8. ^ Carpenter, David (1999). "Who were the Middletons?". The Lords of Ilkley Manor – The Road to Ruin. Retrieved 11 January 2007. 
  9. ^ Carpenter, David (1999). "Middelton Mini-Biographies". The Lords of Ilkley Manor – The Road to Ruin. Retrieved 11 January 2007. 
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  38. ^ "Ilkley Golf Club : The Clubhouse". Retrieved 9 April 2010. 
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  40. ^ "Ilkley Harriers". 
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  42. ^ http://www.aire-wharfecricket.org.uk/
  43. ^ "About BRHC". Retrieved 11 June 2009. 
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  55. ^ "About Us". Ilkley Toy Museum. Retrieved 10 January 2007. 
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  58. ^ Harnett, Peter (March 2008). "The Evolution of Darwin Gardens Millennium Green". Darwin Gardens Trust. Retrieved 9 June 2009. 
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  62. ^ "Ilkley Complementary Medicine Festival". Retrieved 25 August 2013. 
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  64. ^ "Ilkley and Coutances celebrate twin-ship". Ilkley Gazette. Newsquest Media Group. 29 May 2009. Retrieved 27 June 2009. 
  65. ^ Lewis, Samuel (1848). "Ifield – Ilkley". A Topographical Dictionary of England. University of London & History of Parliament Trust. pp. 603–608. Retrieved 11 January 2007. 
  66. ^ "All Saints Primary School, Ilkley". ilkley.org. Retrieved 30 June 2009. [dead link]
  67. ^ "Ashlands Primary School Ilkley, Bradford, West Yorkshire". ashlandsprimary.org.uk. Retrieved 30 June 2009. [dead link]
  68. ^ "Ben Rhydding Primary School, Ilkley". benrhydding.ngfl.ac.uk. Retrieved 30 June 2009. 
  69. ^ "Sacred Heart Primary School, Ilkley". ilkley.org. Retrieved 30 June 2009. [dead link]
  70. ^ "Moorfield School – An independent Prep School for Boys and Girls". moorfieldschool.co.uk. Retrieved 20 May 2013. 
  71. ^ "Westville House School – Independent Co-Educational Prep School and Nursery for Girls and Boys". westvilleschool.co.uk. Retrieved 30 June 2009. 
  72. ^ "Ilkley Grammar School". ilkley.school-site2.net. Retrieved 30 June 2009. 
  73. ^ "About the Yorkshire Ballet Summer School". Yorkshire Ballet Summer School. Retrieved 10 June 2009. [dead link]
  74. ^ "Quality Assessment Report by the HEFCE for Bradford and Ilkley Community College". Quality Assurance Agency for Higher Education. April 1994. Retrieved 7 January 2007. 
  75. ^ "Sale of college campus is agreed". Telegraph & Argus (Newsquest Media Group). 17 October 1998. Retrieved 9 June 2009. 
  76. ^ Kershaw, Paul. "History of the Church Building". Retrieved 15 July 2009. 
  77. ^ "Visitors Welcome Page". Retrieved 15 July 2009. 
  78. ^ "David Hope to retire from Ilkley". archbishopofcanterbury.org. 11 September 2006. Retrieved 15 June 2006. 
  79. ^ "Churches Together in Ilkley: Information". Wharfedale Online Trust. Archived from the original on 10 October 2007. Retrieved 8 January 2007. 

External links[edit]