|Issei "Issey" Miyake|
April 22, 1938 |
Life and career
Miyake was born 22 April 1938 in Hiroshima, Japan. As a seven year-old, he witnessed and survived the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima on August 6, 1945. He studied graphic design at the Tama Art University in Tokyo, graduating in 1964. After graduation, he worked in Paris and New York City. Returning to Tokyo in 1970, he founded the Miyake Design Studio, a high-end producer of women's fashion.
In the late 1980s, he began to experiment with new methods of pleating that would allow both flexibility of movement for the wearer as well as ease of care and production. This eventually resulted in a new technique called garment pleating in 1993's Pleats Please in which the garments are cut and sewn first, then sandwiched between layers of paper and fed into a heat press, where they are pleated. The fabric's 'memory' holds the pleats and when the garments are liberated from their paper cocoon, they are ready-to wear. He did the costume for Ballett Frankfurt with pleats in a piece named "the Loss of Small Detail" William Forsythe and also work on ballet "Garden in the setting".
He had a long friendship with Austrian-born pottery artist Dame Lucie Rie. She bequeathed to him her substantial collection of ceramic and porcelain buttons, which he integrated into his designs and presented in new collections.
He also developed a friendship with Apple's Steve Jobs and produced the black turtlenecks which would become a part of Jobs' signature attire. Jobs said, "So I asked Issey to make me some of his black turtlenecks that I liked, and he made me like a hundred of them."
In 1994 and 1999, Miyake turned over the design of the men's and women's collections respectively, to his associate, Naoki Takizawa, so that he could return to research full-time. In 2007, Naoki Takizawa opened his own brand, supported by the Issey Miyake Group and was replaced, as a Creative Director of the House of Issey Miyake, by Dai Fujiwara.
Issey Miyake lines and brands
Mr Miyake "oversees the overall direction of all lines created by his company", even though the individual collections have been designed by his staff since his 'retirement' from the fashion world in 1997.
- Issey Miyake - main collection line, subdivided into men (since 1978/85) and women (since 1971) collections, designed by Dai Fujiwara (succeeded Naoki Takizawa in 2006)
- Issey Miyake Fête - colorful women's line that "draws on the technological innovations of Pleats Please" (Fête means 'celebration' in French) (since 2004)
- Pleats Please Issey Miyake - polyester jersey garments for women that are first "cut and sewn and then pleated [...] (normally, fabric is first pleated and then cut and sewn [...])" "to permanently retain washboard rows of horizontal, vertical or diagonal knife-edge pleats." (since 1989/93)
- HaaT - women's line, designed by Miyake's former textile designer, Makiko Minagawa. HaaT means 'village market' in Sanskrit, the word sound similar to 'heart' in English. (since 2000).
- A-POC - custom-collection for men and women. Tubes of fabric are machine-processed and can be cut into various shapes by the consumer. A-POC is an acronym of 'a piece of cloth', and a near homonym of 'epoch'. (since 1997)
- me Issey Miyake - line of "exclusive one-sized shirts that stretch to fit the wearer" that are sold in plastic tube, named Cauliflower for the non-Asian market. (since 2001)
- Issey Miyake Watches - men's and women's watches
- Issey Miyake Perfumes - line of fragrances for men and women. See below
- Evian by Issey Miyake - Limited edition bottle designed by Issey Miyake for Evian water.
- Issey Miyake maintains a freestanding store, named ELTTOB TEP Issey Miyake (reverse for 'Pet Bottle') in Osaka where the full array of lines is available.
- 21-21 Design Sight (a play on 20/20 vision) is a museum-style research center for design, constructed by Tadao Ando, that was opened in Roppongi, Tokyo in March 2007. The center is headed by Issey Miyake and four other Japanese designers, and operated by The Miyake Issey Foundation.
- The Miyake Issey Foundation, founded in Tokyo in 2004, operates the 21_21 Design Sight center, organizes exhibitions and events, and publishes literature.
Like many fashion designers, Issey Miyake also has a line of perfumes. His first fragrance, the light aquatic-floral L'eau d'Issey for women, was launched in 1992. The name L'eau d'Issey (engl.: Issey's water) is a pun. In French, it sounds identical to "l'odyssée" (engl. odyssey).The bottle, designed by Miyake himself, is based on the view of the moon behind the Eiffel Tower from his Paris apartment.
The scent was followed by L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme (for men) in 1994. L'eau Bleue d'Issey Pour Homme was introduced in 2004; and its evolution, L'eau Bleue d'Issey Eau Fraiche was introduced in 2006. Every year since 2007, Issey Miyake has brought out a "limited time only" fragrance for ladies in which he brings in a "guest" perfumer. In 2007, he launched 'Drop on a Petal', and in 2008 he launched 'Reflections in a Drop'. A new Issey Miyake men's fragrance, L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme Intense, was introduced at Nordstrom in the United States in June 2007, with a larger worldwide rollout following in September 2007. Issey Miyake fragrances are produced under a long-term agreement by the Beauté Prestige International division of Shiseido, who also produces fragrances for Narciso Rodriguez, Elie Saab, and Jean-Paul Gaultier.
- Miyake won the Arts and Philosophy Kyoto Prize in 2006.
- In 2005, he was awarded the Praemium Imperiale for Sculpture.
- Order of Culture, 2010
- Steve Jobs' black turtleneck reportedly explained in biography (Nathan Olivarez-Giles, Los Angeles Times, October 11, 2011)
- Issey Miyake. "A Flash of Memory". The New York Times, July 13, 2009.
- "Art Space Tokyo". 21_21 Design Sight: Tokyo Art Maps. Retrieved 2012-01-09.
- http://www.contemporary-magazine.com/interview59.htm Contemporary Magazine - The A-POC epoch
- http://www.fashionwindows.com/runway_shows/issey_miyake/default.asp Fashion Windows - Issey Miyake
- http://www.dnrnews.com/site/article.php?id=122 DNR -A-POC making
- http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/fashion/a-z/158594/issey-miyake.html Marie Claire - Issey Miyake
- http://metropolis.co.jp/tokyo/551/goods.asp Metropolis - Festival of Style
- https://pleatspleaseshop.com/#/about/about/ pleatspleaseshop.com - About Pleats
- http://www.theage.com.au/news/fashion/techno-frock/2006/06/15/1149964667925.html?page=2 The Age - Techno Frock
- http://the.honoluluadvertiser.com/article/2006/Jul/12/il/FP607120311.html Honolulu Advertiser - Worldy Textiles
- http://www.iht.com/articles/2002/03/09/rjapan1_ed3_.php IHT - A new wave in Tokyo pursues the next Cool Look
- Bernardo Siaotong - Epoch of A-poc
- http://www.designboom.com/eng/funclub/apoc.html designboom - 'a-poc making'
- http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3992/is_200105/ai_n8936766 BNET - Issey Miyake's A-POC: A piece of cloth
- http://www.businessweek.com/innovate/content/apr2006/id20060425_361290.htm BusinessWeek - Issey Miyake the dream weaver
- http://www.asiarooms.com/travel-guide/japan/tokyo/things-to-do-in-tokyo/where-to-shop-in-tokyo/issey-miyake.html Asiatooms.com - Issey Miyake
- http://www.designboom.com/eng/funclub/apoc_me.html Designboom - 'me'
- http://www.hintmag.com/shoptart/shoptart_apr07.php Hint Mag - Different Strokes
- http://www.2121designsight.jp/designsight/directors-e.html 21_21 - The directors
- http://www.mitsuifudosan.co.jp/english/home/news_20050714.html Mitsui Fudosan - "21/21 Design Sight" to be established
- http://www.signonsandiego.com/uniontrib/20070311/news_mz1c11issey.html The San Diego Union Tribune - Intelligent Design
|Wikimedia Commons has media related to Issey Miyake.|
||This article's use of external links may not follow Wikipedia's policies or guidelines. (November 2013)|
- Issey Miyake - official website
- ELTOTOB TEP Issey Miyake web site
- Issey Miyake Watches web site
- Issey Miyake Parfums web site
- Issey Miyake TribeCa store web site
- Pleats Please Issey Miyake web site
- Pleats Please online store by Issey Miyake USA Corp.
- Issey Miyake at the Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain (Paris)
- Exhibition including Miyake's work at the Cincinnati Art Museum
- Art Directors Club biography, portrait and images of work
- 'A Flash of Memory' New York Times Op-Ed