Mary Quant
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| Mary Quant OBE | |
|---|---|
| Born | 11 February 1934 Blackheath, London, England  |
| Nationality | British |
| Education | Goldsmith's College |
| Labels | Mary Quant |
| Awards | OBE, FCSD |
Mary Quant, OBE, FCSD (born 11 February 1934 in Blackheath, London, England) is a British fashion designer, one of the many designers who took credit for inventing the miniskirt and hot pants. Born to Welsh parents, Quant studied illustration at Goldsmiths College before taking a career with a couture milliner. She is also famed for her work on pop art in fashion.
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[edit] Early career
In November 1955, she teamed up with her husband, Alexander Plunkett-Grene, and a former solicitor, Archie Mcnair, to open a clothes shop on the Kings Road in London called Bazaar. Bazaar's best sellers were small white plastic collars to brighten up black dresses or a black sweat shirt. Black stretch stockings were popular too.
Following the positive reaction to a pair of "mad house pyjamas" designed for the opening, and dissatisfied with the variety of clothes available to her, Quant decided to make her own range of clothing. Initially working solo, she was soon employing a handful of machinists, and by 1966 she was working with 18 different manufacturers concurrently.
She has one son, Orlando.[1]
[edit] Miniskirt
Skirts had been getting shorter since about 1958 – a development Mary Quant considered to be practical and liberating, allowing women the ability to run for a bus. The miniskirt, for which she is arguably most famous, became one of the defining fashions of the 1960s. The miniskirt was developed separately by André Courrèges and John Bates[2], and there is disagreement as to who came up with the idea first. Mary Quant named the miniskirt after her favorite make of car, the Mini; she loved this car so much, she had one designed especially for her.
In addition to the miniskirt, Mary Quant is often credited with inventing the colored and patterned tights that tended to accompany the garment, although these are also attributed to Cristobal Balenciaga or John Bates.[2] It should be recalled that short skirts were not exactly unknown to "flappers" in the Roaring Twenties.
[edit] Swinging Sixties
Regardless of whether or not she invented these items, Quant was one of their major popularisers, largely thanks to the fact that Bazaar was a popular haunt for the fashionable "Chelsea Set" of "Swinging London". By 1961, Quant had opened a second Bazaar in Knightsbridge and by 1965 she was exporting to the U.S.. To keep up with demand, Quant went into mass-production, setting up the .
Quant's popularity was at its height in the mid 1960s, during which time she produced the dangerously short micro-mini skirt, "paint box" make-up, and plastic raincoats. In 1970 Bernard Levin called her the "High Priestess of Sixties fashion".[3] At the height of her fame in the 60s, she anticipated that pubic hair would be a "fashion emphasis" in the coming decade, a suggestion that was scorned by many, though, as Levin observed, "none was so sure of the basis of his ridicule as to deny the possibility".[4]
In 1966, Quant was appointed an OBE for services to the fashion industry.
In 1967, Quant was mentioned by singer-songwriter Donovan Leitch in the song Sunny South Kensington on the album Mellow Yellow[5].
[edit] Later career
In the late 1960s, Quant popularised hot pants. Through the 1970s and 1980s she concentrated on household goods and make-up, rather than just her clothing lines. At a talk at the Victoria & Albert Museum in 2007 she claimed to have invented duvet covers.
In 1988, Quant designed the interior of the Mini (1000) Designer (Originally dubbed the Mini Quant, this name was switched when popularity charts were set against having Quant's name on the car). It featured black and white striped seats with red trimming. The seatbelts were red, and the driving and passenger seats had Quant's signature on the upper left quadrant. The steering wheel had Quant's signature daisy and the bonnet badge had "Mary Quant" written over the signature name. The headlight housings, wheel arches, door handles and bumpers were all nimbus grey, rather than the more common chrome or black finishes. 2000 were released in the UK on 15 June 1988, a number were also released on to foreign markets, however the numbers for these are hard to come by. The special edition Mini came in two body colours, jet black and diamond white.
She is also a Fellow of the Chartered Society of Designers, and winner of the Minerva Medal, the Society's highest award.
In 2000, she resigned as director of Mary Quant Ltd., her cosmetics company, after a Japanese buy-out. There are over 200 Mary Quant Colour shops in Japan, where Quant fashions continue to enjoy more popularity.
[edit] See also
[edit] Notes
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[edit] External links
- film and television credits
- Database containing Mary Quant clothing in the fashion and textiles collection at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London
- "Mary Quant, A New Approach Chelsea 1955–1967". Fashion, Jewellery & Accessories. Victoria and Albert Museum. http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/1960s/exhibition/quant/index.html. Retrieved on 2007-06-08.
- Sewing patterns by Mary Quant
