Mixed climbing
Mixed climbing is a combination of ice climbing and rock climbing generally using ice climbing equipment such as crampons and ice tools.[1][2] Mixed climbing has inspired its own specialized gear such as boots which are similar to climbing shoes but feature built in crampons. Dry-tooling is mixed climbing's most specialized skill and has since evolved into a "sport" onto itself.
[edit] Grading
Roughly follows the WI rating system with respect to its physical and technical demands. Typically starts at M4. Subgrades of "-" and "+" are commonly used, although the distinctions are typically very subjective. The following table makes a comparison with the WI system and the Yosemite Decimal System. Comparing these is rough, and only gives an idea of the relative difficulty; the reason different systems exist in the first place is because it's difficult to compare grades between climbing media.
- M4 - 5.8 - WI4 - slabby to vertical, some technical drytooling
- M5 - 5.9 - WI5 - some sections of sustained drytooling
- M6 - 5.10 - WI6 - vertical to overhanging with some difficult drytooling
- M7 - 5.11 - WI7 - overhanging, powerful and technical drytooling, <10 m of "hard" climbing
- M8 - 5.11+ - bouldery or longer cruxes than M7, some horizontal overhangs
- M9 - 5.12- - vertical or steeper with sustained marginal or highly technical drytooling; or horizontal and juggy for up to a few body lengths.
- M10 - 5.12
- M11 - 5.12+
- M12 - 5.13-
-
Rich Purnell mixed climbing a route rated m9.
[edit] References
- ^ Gadd, Will; Roger Chayer (2003-11). Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (1 ed.). Mountaineers Books. ISBN 089886769X.
- ^ Cox, Steven M. and Kris Fulsaas, ed., ed. (2003-09). Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills (7 ed.). Seattle: The Mountaineers. ISBN 0898868289.
