Mulch

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A mulch is a layer of material applied to the surface of an area of soil. Its purpose is any or all of the following:

  • to conserve moisture
  • to improve the fertility and health of the soil
  • to reduce weed growth
  • to enhance the visual appeal of the area

A mulch is usually but not exclusively organic in nature. It may be permanent (e.g. plastic sheeting) or temporary (e.g. bark chips). It may be applied to bare soil, or around existing plants. Mulches of manure or compost will be incorporated naturally into the soil by the activity of worms and other organisms. The process is used both in commercial crop production and in gardening, and when applied correctly can dramatically improve soil productivity.[1]

Uses[edit]

Many materials are used as mulches, which are used to retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, suppress weed growth, and for aesthetics.[2] They are applied to the soil surface,[3] around trees, paths, flower beds, to prevent soil erosion on slopes, and in production areas for flower and vegetable crops. Mulch layers are normally two inches or more deep when applied.[4][5]

They are applied at varies times of the year depending on the purpose. Towards the beginning of the growing season mulches serve initially to warm the soil by helping it retain heat which is lost during the night. This allows early seeding and transplanting of certain crops, and encourages faster growth. As the season progresses, mulch stabilizes the soil temperature and moisture, and prevents the growing of weeds from seeds.[6] In temperate climates, the effect of mulch is dependent upon the time of year they are applied and when applied in fall and winter, are used to delay the growth of perennial plants in the spring or prevent growth in winter during warm spells, which limits freeze thaw damage.[7]

The effect of mulch upon soil moisture content is complex. Mulch forms a layer between the soil and the atmosphere which prevents sunlight from reaching the soil surface, thus reducing evaporation. However, mulch can also prevent water from reaching the soil by absorbing or blocking water from light rains.

In order to maximise the benefits of mulch, while minimizing its negative influences, it is often applied in late spring/early summer when soil temperatures have risen sufficiently, but soil moisture content is still relatively high.[8] However, permanent mulch is also widely used and valued for its simplicity, as popularized by author Ruth Stout, who said, "My way is simply to keep a thick mulch of any vegetable matter that rots on both sides of my vegetable and flower garden all year long. As it decays and enriches the soils, I add more."[9]

Plastic mulch used in large-scale commercial production is laid down with a tractor-drawn or standalone layer of plastic mulch. This is usually part of a sophisticated mechanical process, where raised beds are formed, plastic is rolled out on top, and seedlings are transplanted through it. Drip irrigation is often required, with drip tape laid under the plastic, as plastic mulch is impermeable to water.

In home gardens and smaller farming operations, mulches are usually spread by hand around emerged plants. (On plots with existing mulch, the mulch is pulled away from the seedbed before planting, and restored after the seedlings have emerged.) For materials like straw and hay, a shredder may be used to chop up the material. Organic mulches are usually piled quite high, six inches (152 mm) or more, and settle over the season.

Materials[edit]

Rubber mulch nuggets in a playground. The white fibers are nylon cords, which are present in the tires which the mulch is made from.
Shredded wood used as mulch. This type of mulch is often dyed to improve its appearance in the landscape.
Pine needles used as mulch. Also called "pinestraw" in the southern US.
Aged Compost mulch on a flower bed
Crushed stone mulch
Spring daffodils push through shredded wood mulch

Materials used as mulches vary and depend on a number of factors. Use takes into consideration availability, cost, appearance, the effect it has on the soil—including chemical reactions and pH, durability, combustibility, rate of decomposition, how clean it is—some can contain weed seeds or plant pathogens.[6]

A variety of materials are used as mulch:

  • Organic residues: grass clippings, leaves, hay, straw, kitchen scraps comfrey, shredded bark, whole bark nuggets, sawdust, shells, woodchips, shredded newspaper, cardboard, wool, animal manure, etc. Many of these materials also act as a direct composting system, such as the mulched clippings of a mulching lawn mower, or other organics applied as sheet composting.
  • Compost: fully composted materials are used to avoid possible phytotoxicity problems. Materials that are free of seeds are ideally used, to prevent weeds introduced by the mulch.
  • Rubber mulch: made from recycled tire rubber.
  • Plastic mulch: crops grow through slits or holes in thin plastic sheeting. This method is predominant in large-scale vegetable growing, with millions of acres cultivated under plastic mulch worldwide each year (disposal of plastic mulch is cited as an environmental problem).
  • Rock and gravel can also be used as a mulch. In cooler climates the heat retained by rocks may extend the growing season.

In some areas of the United States, such as central Pennsylvania and northern California, mulch is often referred to as "tanbark", even by manufacturers and distributors. In these areas, the word "mulch" is used specifically to refer to very fine tanbark or peat moss.

Organic mulches[edit]

Organic mulches decay over time and are temporary. The way a particular organic mulch decomposes and reacts to wetting by rain and dew affects its usefulness.

Some mulches such as straw, peat, sawdust and other wood products may for a while negatively affect plant growth because of their wide carbon to nitrogen ratio,[10] because bacteria and fungi that decompose the materials remove nitrogen from the surrounding soil for growth.[11][12] However, whether this effect has any practical impact on gardens is disputed by researchers and the experience of gardeners.[13] Organic mulches can mat down, forming a barrier that blocks water and air flow between the soil and the atmosphere. Vertically applied organic mulches can wick water from the soil to the surface, which can dry out the soil.[14] Mulch made with wood can contain or feed termites, so care must be taken about not placing mulch too close to houses or building that can be damaged by those insects. Some mulch manufacturers recommend putting mulch several inches away from buildings.

Commonly available organic mulches include:[6]

Leaves[edit]

  • Leaves from deciduous trees, which drop their foliage in the autumn/fall. They tend to be dry and blow around in the wind, so are often chopped or shredded before application. As they decompose they adhere to each other but also allow water and moisture to seep down to the soil surface. Thick layers of entire leaves, especially of maples and oaks, can form a soggy mat in winter and spring which can impede the new growth lawn grass and other plants. Dry leaves are used as winter mulches to protect plants from freezing and thawing in areas with cold winters, they are normally removed during spring.

Grass clippings[edit]

  • Grass clippings, from mowed lawns are sometimes collected and used elsewhere as mulch. Grass clippings are dense and tend to mat down, so are mixed with tree leaves or rough compost to provide aeration and to facilitate their decomposition without smelly putrefaction. Rotting fresh grass clippings can damage plants; their rotting often produces a damaging buildup of trapped heat. Grass clippings are often dried thoroughly before application, which mediates against rapid decomposition and excessive heat generation. Fresh green grass clippings are relatively high in nitrate content, and when used as a mulch, much of the nitrate is returned to the soil, but the routine removal of grass clippings from the lawn results in nitrogen deficiency for the lawn.

Peat moss[edit]

  • Peat moss, or sphagnum peat, is long lasting and packaged, making it convenient and popular as a mulch. When wetted and dried, it can form a dense crust that does not allow water to soak in. When dry it can also burn, producing a smoldering fire. It is sometimes mixed with pine needles to produce a mulch that is friable. It can also lower the pH of the soil surface, making it useful as a mulch under acid loving plants.

However peat bogs are a valuable wildlife habitat, and peat is also one of the largest stores of carbon (in Britain, out of a total estimated 9952 million tonnes of carbon in British vegetation and soils, 6948 million tonnes carbon are estimated to be in Scottish, mostly peatland, soils[15]), so gardeners who wish to protect the environment will choose more sustainable alternatives.[16]

Wood chips[edit]

  • Wood chips are a byproduct of the pruning of trees by arborists, utilities and parks; they are used to dispose of bulky waste. Tree branches and large stems are rather coarse after chipping and tend to be used as a mulch at least three inches thick. The chips are used to conserve soil moisture, moderate soil temperature and suppress weed growth. The decay of freshly produced chips from recently living woody plants, consumes nitrate; this is often off set with a light application of a high-nitrate fertilizer. Wood chips are most often used under trees and shrubs. When used around soft stemmed plants, an unmulched zone is left around the plant stems to prevent stem rot or other possible diseases. They are often used to mulch trails, because they are readily produced with little additional cost outside of the normal disposal cost of tree maintenance. Wood chips come in various colors.

Woodchip mulch[edit]

  • Woodchip mulch is a byproduct of reprocessing used (untreated) timber (usually packaging pallets), to dispose of wood waste by creating woodchip mulch. The chips are used to conserve soil moisture, moderate soil temperature and suppress weed growth. Woodchip mulch is often used under trees, shrubs or large planting areas and can last much longer than arborist mulch. In addition, many consider woodchip mulch to be visually appealing, as it comes in various colors. Woodchips can also be reprocessed into playground woodchip to be used as an impact-attenuating playground surfacing.

Bark chips[edit]

Bark chips
  • Bark chips of various grades are produced from the outer corky bark layer of timber trees. Sizes vary from thin shredded strands to large coarse blocks. The finer types are very attractive but have a large exposed surface area that leads to quicker decay. Layers two or three inches deep are usually used, bark is relativity inert and its decay does not demand soil nitrates. Bark chips are also available in various colors.

Straw mulch / field hay / salt hay[edit]

Permaculture garden with a fruit tree, herbs, flowers and vegetables mulched with hay
  • Straw mulch or field hay or salt hay are lightweight and normally sold in compressed bales. They have an unkempt look and are used in vegetable gardens and as a winter covering. They are biodegradable and neutral in pH. They have good moisture retention and weed controlling properties but also are more likely to be contaminated with weed seeds. Salt hay is less likely to have weed seeds than field hay. Straw mulch is also available in various colors.

Cardboard / newspaper[edit]

  • Cardboard or newspaper can be used as mulches. These are best used as a base layer upon which a heavier mulch such as compost is placed to prevent the lighter cardboard/newspaper layer from blowing away. By incorporating a layer of cardboard/newspaper into a mulch, the quantity of heavier mulch can be reduced, whilst improving the weed suppressant and moisture retaining properties of the mulch.[8] However, additional labour is expended when planting through a mulch containing a cardboard/newspaper layer, as holes must be cut for each plant. Sowing seed through mulches containing a cardboard/newspaper layer is impractical. Application of newspaper mulch in windy weather can be facilitated by briefly pre-soaking the newspaper in water to increase its weight.

Colored Mulch[edit]

Some organic mulches are colored red, brown, black, and other colors. Isopropanolamine, specifically 1-Amino-2-propanol or DOW™ monoisopropanolamine, may be used as a pigment dispersant and color fastener in these mulches.[17][18][19][20] Types of mulch which can be dyed include: wood chips, bark chips (barkdust) and pine straw. Colored mulch is made by dyeing the mulch in a water-based solution of colorant and chemical binder. When colored mulch first entered the market, most formulas were suspected to contain toxic, heavy metals and other contaminates. Today, “current investigations indicate that mulch colorants pose no threat to people, pets or the environment. The dyes currently used by the mulch and soil industry are similar to those used in the cosmetic and other manufacturing industries (i.e., iron oxide),” as stated by the Mulch and Soil Council. [21] Colored mulch can be applied anywhere non-colored mulch is used (such as large bedded areas or around plants) and features many of the same gardening benefits as traditional mulch, such as improving soil productivity and retaining moisture.[22] As mulch decomposes, just as with non-colored mulch, more mulch may need to be added to continue providing benefits to the soil and plants. However, if mulch is faded, spraying dye to previously spread mulch in order to restore color is an option.[23]

Anaerobic (sour) mulch[edit]

Mulch normally smells like freshly cut wood, but sometimes develops a toxicity that causes it to smell like vinegar, ammonia, sulfur or silage. This happens when material with ample nitrogen content is not rotated often enough and it forms pockets of increased decomposition. When this occurs, the process may become anaerobic and produce these phytotoxic materials in small quantities. Once exposed to the air, the process quickly reverts to an aerobic process, but these toxic materials may be present for a period of time. If the mulch is placed around plants before the toxicity has had a chance to dissipate, then the plants could very likely be damaged or killed depending on their hardiness. Plants that are predominantly low to the ground or freshly planted are the most susceptible, and the phytotoxicity may prevent germination of some seeds.[24]

If sour mulch is applied and there is plant kill, the best thing to do is to water the mulch heavily. Water dissipates the chemicals faster and refreshes the plants. Removing the offending mulch may have little effect, because by the time plant kill is noticed, most of the toxicity is already dissipated. While testing after plant kill will not likely turn up anything, a simple pH check may reveal high acidity, in the range of 3.8 to 5.6 instead of the normal range of 6.0 to 7.2. Finally, placing a bit of the offending mulch around another plant to check for plant kill will verify if the toxicity has departed. If the new plant is also killed, then sour mulch is probably not the problem.

Groundcovers (living mulches)[edit]

Main articles: Groundcovers and Living mulch

Groundcovers are plants which grow close to the ground, under the main crop, to slow the development of weeds and provide other benefits of mulch. They are usually fast-growing plants that continue growing with the main crops. By contrast, cover crops are incorporated into the soil or killed with herbicides. However, live mulches also may need to be mechanically or chemically killed eventually to prevent competition with the main crop.[25]

Some groundcovers can perform additional roles in the garden such as nitrogen fixation in the case of clovers, dynamic accumulation of nutrients from the subsoil in the case of creeping comfrey (Symphytum ibericum), and even food production in the case of Rubus tricolor.[26]

On-site mulch production[edit]

Owing to the great bulk of mulch which is often required on a site, it is often impractical and expensive to source and import sufficient mulch materials. An alternative to importing mulch materials is to grow them on site in a "mulch garden" - an area of the site dedicated entirely to the production of mulch which is then transferred to the growing area.[26] Mulch gardens should be sited as close as possible to the growing area so as to facilitate transfer of mulch materials.[26]

Mulching (composting) over unwanted plants[edit]

Main article: Sheet mulching

Sufficient mulch over plants will destroy them, and may be more advantageous than using herbicide, cutting, mowing, pulling, raking, or tilling. The higher the temperature that this "mulch" is composted, the quicker the reduction of undesirable materials. "Undesirable materials" may include living seed, plant "trash", as well as pathogens such as from animal feces, urine (e.g. hantavirus), fleas, lice, ticks, etc.

In some ways this improves the soil by attracting and feeding earthworms, and adding humus. Earthworms "till" the soil, and their feces are among the best fertilizers and soil conditioners.

Urine may be toxic to plants if applied to growing areas undiluted. See Compost ingredients: Urine.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ RHS A-Z encyclopedia of garden plants. United Kingdom: Dorling Kindersley. 2008. p. 1136. ISBN 1405332964. 
  2. ^ Alfred J. Turgeon; Lambert Blanchard McCarty; Nick Edward Christians (2009). Weed control in turf and ornamentals. Prentice Hall. p. 126. ISBN 978-0-13-159122-6. 
  3. ^ Mahesh K. Upadhyaya; Robert E. Blackshaw (2007). Non-chemical Weed Management: Principles, Concepts and Technology. CABI. pp. 135–. ISBN 978-1-84593-291-6. 
  4. ^ Vegetable Gardening: Growing and Harvesting Vegetables. Murdoch Books. 2004. pp. 110–. ISBN 978-1-74045-519-0. 
  5. ^ Dennis R. Pittenger (2002). California Master Gardener Handbook. UCANR Publications. pp. 567–. ISBN 978-1-879906-54-9. 
  6. ^ a b c Louise; Bush-Brown, James (1996). America's garden book. New York: Macmillan USA. p. 768. ISBN 0-02-860995-6{{inconsistent citations}} 
  7. ^ Leon C. Snyder (2000). Gardening in the Upper Midwest. University of Minnesota Press. pp. 47–. ISBN 978-0-8166-3838-3. 
  8. ^ a b Patrick Whitefield, 2004, The Earth Care Manual, Permanent Publications, ISBN 978-1-85623-021-6
  9. ^ Stout, Ruth. Gardening Without Work. Devon-Adair Press, 1961. Reprinted by Norton Creek Press, 2011, pp. 6-7. ISBN 978-0-9819284-6-3
  10. ^ http://www.eau.ee/~agronomy/vol07Spec1/p7sI53.pdf
  11. ^ http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=3111&Type=2
  12. ^ Jeff Gillman (1 February 2008). The Truth About Organic Gardening: Benefits, Drawnbacks, and the Bottom Line. Timber Press. pp. 51–. ISBN 978-1-60469-005-7. 
  13. ^ Stout, Ruth. Gardening Without Work. Devon-Adair Press, 1961. Reprinted by Norton Creek Press, 2011, pp. 192-193. ISBN 978-0-9819284-6-3
  14. ^ David A. Bainbridge (11 June 2007). A Guide for Desert and Dryland Restoration: New Hope for Arid Lands. Island Press. pp. 239–. ISBN 978-1-61091-082-8. 
  15. ^ Milne, R.; T. A. Brown (1997). "Carbon in the vegetation and soils of Great Britain". Journal of Environmental Management 49: 413–433. 
  16. ^ Walker, John (2011). How to Create an Eco Garden: The practical guide to greener, planet-friendly gardening. Wigston, Leicestershire: Aquamarine. p. 33. ISBN 9781903141892. 
  17. ^ Product Information - DOW™ Monoisopropanolamine (MIPA)
  18. ^ Product Safety Assessment - DOW™ Monoisopropanolamine
  19. ^ 2010 Mulch Magic Red Material Safety Data Sheet
  20. ^ 2007 Mulch Magic Red Material Safety Data Sheet
  21. ^ http://www.mulchandsoilcouncil.org/faqs/mulch.php
  22. ^ http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/mulch.html
  23. ^ http://homeguides.sfgate.com/there-spray-can-use-renew-mulch-color-64513.html
  24. ^ Beware of Sour Mulch
  25. ^ [Brandsaeter et al. 1998, Tharp and Kells, 2001]
  26. ^ a b c Jacke and Toensmeier, Edible Forest Gardening, vol. II

External links[edit]