Nicolas Ghesquière

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Nicolas Ghesquière
Born (1971-05-09) 9 May 1971 (age 43)
Comines, Nord-Pas de Calais, France
Nationality France
Occupation Fashion designer
Labels Louis Vuitton

Nicolas Ghesquière (French pronunciation: ​[nikola ɡɛs.kjɛːʁ]; born 9 May 1971) is a fashion designer and is, currently, creative director of the house of Louis Vuitton owned by LVMH).

Early Life[edit]

He was born in Comines, Nord, the son of a Francophone Belgian golf-course owner and manager in the 9,000 inhabitants Poitevine town of Loudun and a French mother who enjoyed fashion. He grew up in Loudun, Vienne. From a young age, Ghesquière enjoyed and practised sports (horse riding, fencing and swimming) and many of his collections use that inspiration, most notably his scuba minidresses and most recently his equestrian inspired Fall/Winter 2006 Ready-To-Wear collection.

Raised in the small town of Loudun in western France (in the Poitevin-speaking part), Ghesquière announced[citation needed] at the age of 12 that he wanted to be a designer, though he now admits this was partly from an adolescent desire to do something different from his parents and to alleviate country boredom. By the age of 12 Nicolas was dreamily sketching dress designs in his school books, making dresses out of his mother's curtains and making earrings out of his grandmother's chandelier crystals.

He diligently did internships during his school holidays. At 14, he got an internship with French designer agnès b for which he was paid in clothes. His next apprenticeship was with Corinne Cobson, afterwards he decided that fashion was too hard work and came home to finish his schooling.

After completing his studies, Nicolas worked from 1990–1992 as an assistant to designer Jean-Paul Gaultier. He then worked at Pôles, designing their knit wear line followed by a series of inauspicious assignments with different companies including the Italian house of Callaghan.

Through his contacts with Marie-Amélie Sauve and Nathalie Marrec, of Balenciaga, Ghesquière eventually landed a job doing the licensing for Balenciaga and designing for the Asian market. It was from there that he was plucked to be the new designer for the house, which had limited success since the 1970s (the label's founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, died in 1972). Ghesquière held, as he then described it, " what many would call the worst position in fashion": designing suits and funeral clothes under a Balenciaga licence for Japan.

Balenciaga[edit]

In 1997, at the young age of 25, Ghesquière was the surprise choice to head the Paris fashion house Balenciaga.[1] Promoted to creative director of Balenciaga after his Belgian predecessor Josephus Thimister was fired following a highly unsuccessful show. At that time, Balenciaga was owned by Groupe Jacques Bogart and its heads realized his talent when he designed a small collection for one of their Japanese licences. He is known for his sense of "silhouette," pairing highwaisted skinny pants with a voluminous "blouson," or a tightly cut wool jumpsuit with billowing sleeves.

His work soon turned Balenciaga into a critically acclaimed fashion house.[1] An aspect of the designer's devotion to the house's legacy is his respect for Cristóbal Balenciaga's original design concepts. However, even though the Balenciaga archives are stored in Ghesquière's atelier, he can gain entry to the locked room only by special appointment with an off-site custodian. Throughout his time at Balenciaga, Ghesquière continually collaborated with the same artists, particularly French artist Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster and stylist Marie-Amélie Sauvé. He has cited additionally cited actress Charlotte Gainsbourg as an influence during his time at the company.[2]

The Gucci Group (PPR) bought Balenciaga in 2001. Ghesquière, who wanted to stay and expand Balenciaga, could only be bought through the house. "It is a happy relationship," Ghesquière says. "It has worked because they wanted me to explain what I wanted to do with Balenciaga, not the other way around." Ghesquière’s collections have had a considerable commercial impact, particularly through his influence on other designers. In November 2012, the PPR group has announced that he was leaving Balanciaga after 15 years of collaboration.

On 5 November 2012, Balenciaga announced that it was parting ways with Ghesquière, ending his 15-year tenure as creative director.[1][3] He joined Louis Vuitton on 4 November 2013.[1] In 2014, the Tribunal de Grande Instance of Paris has set a trial date for the lawsuit between Balenciaga vs. Ghesquière.[4]

Louis Vuitton[edit]

On 4 November 2013, he was confirmed to replace Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton as creative director for the Women's collections.[1]

On 5 March 2014, Ghesquiere had his first show under the LV brand.[5]

Recognition[edit]

In October 2000, Ghesquière was named avant-garde designer of the year at the VHI/Vogue Fashion Awards and a year later, he was named Womenswear Designer of the Year by the CFDA. Most recently he was featured in TIME's 100 Most Influential People of 2005. He was described as "fashion's most sought-after and influential figure" by American Vogue.

External links[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e Socha, Miles (4 November 2013). "Louis Vuitton Confirms Nicolas Ghesquière Hire". WWD. Retrieved 5 November 2013. 
  2. ^ 032c.com. "The story of NICOLAS GHESQUIÈRE and how BALENCIAGA became 21st Century Fashion". Retrieved 5 March 2014. 
  3. ^ nytimes.com (5 November 2012). "Nicolas Ghesquière to Leave Balenciaga". The New York Times. Retrieved 5 November 2012. 
  4. ^ Socha, Miles (4 February 2014). "Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière Trial Date Set". WWD. Retrieved 5 February 2014. 
  5. ^ Socha, Miles (26 February 2014). "All Eyes on Nicolas Ghesquière's Debut at Louis Vuitton". WWD. Retrieved 26 February 2014.