Philip Kraft

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Philip Kraft smelling on a gas chromatograph

Philip Kraft (born in Rendsburg on March 24, 1969) is a German fragrance chemist. Since 1996 he has worked at Givaudan, the world's leading company in the Flavor and Fragrance Industry where he designs new captive odorants for use in perfumes. In addition, he is also a lecturer at the University of Bern, the University of Zurich, and since autumn semester 2010/11 at the ETH Zurich.

Career[edit]

His interest in fragrance chemistry and perfumery was awakened in 1986 by an article on rose oxide analogs,[1] which led to contacts with Haarmann & Reimer (now Symrise), where he was introduced to the world of scents and fragrances. After graduation from high school and a military service concerned with forensic and analytical chemistry, he studied chemistry from 1989–1994 at the University of Kiel. He obtained his degree while working in Werner Tochtermann's group; he then continued his research in this group, producing his PhD thesis on the synthesis of macrocyclic musks, for which he was awarded the prize of the science faculty. He immediately moved to industry, and in 1996 joined the Fragrance Research center of Givaudan in Dübendorf (Switzerland), as a laboratory head in organic synthesis. In 2001, he took part in an expedition with Roman Kaiser to the primary rain forest of the Masoala peninsula (Madagascar) in search of new natural leads. The same year, he was promoted to group leader for the discovery of new odorants. His main research interests are the rational design of new odorants, molecular modeling, and structure–odor correlations, particularly in the domain of musks and floral odorants.[2] Since 2008 he has taught courses in fragrance chemistry: autumn semester of 2008/09 at the University of Bern; 2009/10 at the University of Zurich; and autumn semester of 2010/11 at the ETH Zurich.

Publications and patents[edit]

As of 2014, Kraft has authored 78 papers in peer-reviewed chemistry journals, and is inventor or co-inventor of 30 patents. Highly cited reviews include “Fragrance Chemistry“,[3] “Odds and Trends: Recent Developments in the Chemistry of Odorants”,[4] “New and Unusual Natural Products of Fascinating Flower Scents“,[5] and a book chapter on “Musks”.[6] He co-organized the Flavor & Fragrance conference series of the Royal Society of Chemistry and the Society of the Chemical Industry in Manchester 2004 and London 2007, which he now continues with the Gesellschaft Deutscher Chemiker, the next one being projected at Leipzig for 2012.

Books[edit]

Invented Materials[edit]

  • Super Muguet (6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol, 2001), non-sensitizing muguet alcohol: »Marc Jacobs Men« (Givenchy, 2003).[7]
  • Azurone (7-isopentyl-2H-benzo[b][1,4]dioxepin-3(4H)-one, 2004), potent marine odorant: »Oscar Marina Spirit« (Oscar de la Renta, 2005), »Sécrétions Magnifiques« (Etat Libre d'Orange, 2007).[8]
  • Pomarose ((2E)-5,6,7-trimethylocta-2,5-dien-4-one, 2005), diffusive damascone note: »Be Delicious for Men« (DKNY, 2005), »Unforgivable« (Sean John, 2006), »Unforgivable Woman« (Sean John, 2007), »John Galliano« (John Galliano, 2008), »1 Million« (Paco Rabanne, 2008), »CK free« (Calvin Klein, 2009).[9]
  • Serenolide (2-(1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl)ethoxy)-2-methylpropyl cyclopropanecarboxylate, 2006), linear musk odorant: »Polo Double Black« (Ralph Lauren, 2006), »Unforgivable Woman« (Sean John, 2007), »John Galliano« (John Galliano, 2008).[10] This substance showed only weak potential for skin sensitization.[11]
  • Sylkolide ((3' E)-2-((3',5'-dimethylhex-3'-en-2'-yl)oxy)-2-methylpropyl cyclopropanecarboxylate, 2010), linear top-note musk: »Core for Men« (GAP, 2010).[12]
  • Cassyrane (2-(tert-butyl)-5-methyl-2-propyl-2,5-dihydrofuran, 2010), sulfur-free cassis top note.[13]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Hoepfner, Wolfgang; Weyerstahl, Peter (1986). Liebigs Ann. Chem. 1986, 99–113.
  2. ^ Kraft, Philip; Popaj, Kasim; Abate, Agnese (2005). "Design, Synthesis and Olfactory Properties of 2-Substituted 2-tert-Butyl-5-­methyl-2,5-dihydrofurans: seco-Derivatives of Theaspiranes". Synthesis 2005 (16): 2798–2809. doi:10.1055/s-2005-918404.  (Biographical sketch, English)
  3. ^ Fráter, Georg; Bajgrowicz, Jerzy A.; Kraft, Philip (1998). “Fragrance Chemistry“. Tetrahedron 1998, 54, 7633–7703.
  4. ^ Kraft, Philip; Bajgrowicz, Jerzy A.; Denis, Caroline; Fráter, Georg (2000). "Odds and Trends: Recent Developments in the Chemistry of Odorants". Angewandte Chemie International Edition 2000 (17): 2980–3010. doi:10.1002/1521-3773(20000901)39:17<2980::AID-ANIE2980>3.0.CO;2-#. 
  5. ^ Kaiser, Roman; Kraft, Philip (2001). "Neue und ungewöhnliche Naturstoffe faszinierender Blütendüfte: Überraschende Dufterlebnisse". Chemie in unserer Zeit 2001: 8–23. doi:10.1002/1521-3781(200101)35:1<8::AID-CIUZ8>3.0.CO;2-F. 
  6. ^ Kraft, Philip (2004). In Chemistry and Technology of Flavours and Fragrances, Ed. Rowe, David J.; Blackwell Publishing Ltd., Oxford, 2004, pp. 143–168, ISBN 1-4051-1450-9.
  7. ^ Kraft, Philip; Eichenberger, Walter; Fráter, Georg (1999). "Synthesis of a Constitutional Isomer of Nerol by Consecutive Ireland-Claisen and Cope Rearrangements". European Journal of Organic Chemistry 1999 (11): 2781–2785. doi:10.1002/(SICI)1099-0690(199911)1999:11<2781::AID-EJOC2781>3.0.CO;2-C. 
  8. ^ Kraft, Philip; Eichenberger, Walter (2003). "Conception, Characterization and Correlation of New Marine Odorants". European Journal of Organic Chemistry 2003 (19): 3735–3743. doi:10.1002/ejoc.200300174. 
  9. ^ Kraft, Philip; Denis, Caroline; Eichenberger, Walter (2001). "5,6,7-Trimethylocta-2,5-dien-4-one − A Suspected Odorant with Surprising Olfactory Properties". European Journal of Organic Chemistry 2001 (12): 2363–2369. doi:10.1002/1099-0690(200106)2001:12<2363::AID-EJOC2363>3.0.CO;2-E. 
  10. ^ Kraft, Philip; Popaj, Kasim (2008). "New Musk Odorants: (3E)-4-(2-Alkyl-5,5-dimethylcyclopent-1-enyl)but-3-en-2-ones and (3E)-1-Acetyl-3-alkylidene-4,4-dimethylcyclohexenes". European Journal of Organic Chemistry 2008 (28): 4806–4814. doi:10.1002/ejoc.200800644. 
  11. ^ Natsch, Andreas; Emter, Roger (2007). "Skin Sensitizers Induce Antioxidant Response Element Dependent Genes: Application to the in Vitro Testing of the Sensitization Potential of Chemicals". Toxicological Sciences 102 (1): 110–9. doi:10.1093/toxsci/kfm259. PMID 17932397. 
  12. ^ Kraft, Philip; Eichenberger, Walter (2004). "Synthesis and Odor of Aliphatic Musks: Discovery of a New Class of Odorants". European Journal of Organic Chemistry 2004 (2): 354–365. doi:10.1002/ejoc.200300578. 
  13. ^ Mouhib, Halima; Stahl, Wolfgang; Lüthy, Monique; Büchel, Michelle; Kraft, Philip (2011). "Cassis Odor through Microwave Eyes: Olfactory Properties and Gas-Phase Structures of all the Cassyrane Stereoisomers and its Dihydro Derivatives". Angewandte Chemie International Edition 50 (24): 5576–5580. doi:10.1002/anie.201100937.