Phurba Tashi

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Phurba Tashi
Known for 21 ascents of Mount Everest[1]

Phurba Tashi Sherpa Mendewa (Nepali: फूर्वा तासी शेर्पा) is a Nepalese Sherpa mountaineer, born 1971,[1] known for his numerous ascents of major Himalayan peaks. He holds the record for the most total ascents of eight-thousanders, with 30. These include twenty-one ascents of Mount Everest,[2] five on Cho Oyu, two on Manaslu, and one each on Shishapangma and Lhotse. In 2009 Tashi was featured in the Discovery Channel series Everest: Beyond the Limit.[3] As of 2013 he has reached the summit of Everest 21 times, including three times in the 2007 season alone.[1][4][5] He lives in Khumjung, Nepal.[6]

In the first season of the Discovery Channel series (2006), he was shown carrying double-amputee Mark Inglis down a portion of the lower descent on his back. In 2007, as a result of urging by expedition leader Russell Brice, Tashi agreed to accompany David Tait on his mission to complete the first double traverse of Everest, climbing the north route to the summit, descending on the south side, resting for three days, and then repeating the trip in reverse. Once at Base Camp on the south side of the mountain, however, Tait decided to bow out of the return traverse. Tait said that his decision was influenced by his belief that Phurba Tashi was a far superior climber and would have allowed him all the glory had they continued.[5][7] Tait summited Everest for a third time in May 2009, again accompanied by Tashi (his 15th summit).[7]

The 2014 Mount Everest avalanche that killed 16 Sherpas, reinforced the rationale behind Phurba Tashi's 2012 cancellation decision.[8]