Piz Morteratsch

Piz Morteratsch
Piz Morteratsch from the south
Elevation	3,751 m (12,306 ft)
Prominence	321 m (1,053 ft)
Parent peak	Piz Bernina
Location
Piz Morteratsch Switzerland
Range	Bernina Range
Coordinates	46°24′10″N 9°54′07″E
Climbing
First ascent	11 September 1858 by C. Brügger and P. Gensler with guides Karl Emmermann and Angelo Klaingutti
Easiest route	North flank and ridge (F)

Piz Morteratsch (3,751 m) is a mountain in the Bernina Range in Switzerland. It is bordered on the east by the Morteratsch Glacier and on the south-west by the Tschierva Glacier.

One of the easiest mountains in the range to climb, the normal route follows that taken by the first ascentionists C. Brügger and P. Gensler with guides Karl Emmermann and Angelo Klaingutti on 11 September 1858. Three of its ridges present greater difficulties and are highly regarded:

• South-south-east ridge (D/D+), first ascent P. J. H. Unna with guides, 1903
• East-north-east ridge (AD), first ascent of complete ridge, Paul Schucan and A. Pfister, 10 October 1908 (the upper section had been climbed by Max Schintz with guides Alois and Josef Pollinger in August 1892)
• South-west ridge, (AD), first ascent by T. H. Philpott and Mrs Philpott with guides Peter Jenny and Alexander Fleury in September 1868

Piz Morteratsch from the north. The normal route from both Tschierva and Boval huts goes up the left skyline.

The mountain is served by the Boval hut (2,495 m, open 15 March–15 May and 15 June–15 October) and the Tschierva Hut (2,573 m, open end of March–15 May and 15 June–15 October).

References

• Collomb, Robin, Bernina Alps, Goring: West Col Productions, 1988

External links

• Piz Morteratsch on SummitPost