Pumori

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Pumori
Mt Pumori.jpg
View of Pumori from Everest Base Camp, Khumbu Valley
Elevation 7,161 m (23,494 ft)
Prominence 1,278 m (4,193 ft)[1]
Location
Pumori is located in Nepal
Pumori
Pumori
Location in Nepal
Location Nepal-Tibet
Range Himalayas
Coordinates 28°00′53″N 86°49′41″E / 28.01472°N 86.82806°E / 28.01472; 86.82806Coordinates: 28°00′53″N 86°49′41″E / 28.01472°N 86.82806°E / 28.01472; 86.82806
Climbing
First ascent 1962 by Gerhard Lenser[2]
Easiest route snow/ice climb

Pumori (Nepali: पुमोरि) (or Pumo Ri) is a mountain on the Nepal-Tibet border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. Pumori lies just eight kilometres west of Mount Everest. Pumori, which means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language, was named by George Mallory.[3] Climbers sometimes refer to Pumori as "Everest's Daughter".

Pumori is a popular climbing peak and the easiest route is graded class 3, although with significant avalanche danger. Pumori was first climbed on May 17, 1962 by Gerhard Lenser on a German-Swiss expedition.[2] Two Czechs (Leopold Sulovský and Zdeněk Michalec) climbed a new route on the south face in the spring of 1996.[4]

An outlier of Pumori is Kala Patthar (5,643m/18,513'), which appears as a big brown bump below the impressive south face of Pumori. Many trekkers going to see Mount Everest up close will attempt to climb to the top of Kala Patthar.

Notable ascents[edit]

  • 1962 FA by Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss expedition.
  • 1974 West Face new route by Alpine Club Unpo, Japan, summit reached by Minoru Takagi and Nobuyaki Kaneko on Oct 13.[5]
  • 1986 East Face new route by Hiroshi Aota and Yoshiki Sasahara (Japan) over three days, summiting on December 3.[6]
  • 1986 1985 Catalan Route on East Face, solo by Todd Bibler, summit reached December 5.[7]
  • 2002 Three women (Leila Bahrami, Mitra Nazari, and Farhondeh) from an Iranian expedition reached the summit on October 20 via the southeast face to the east ridge. The Sherpas twice stopped opening the route to the team as they did not expect the women to manage the difficulties.[8]

Ski attempts[edit]

  • 2013 Seb de Sainte Marie and Paul Holding unsuccessfully attempted to climb and ski the West Face.[9]

Accidents[edit]

On 19 October 2002, five Basque mountaineers were swept 600-800 metres down the southeast face by an avalanche caused by a seracs fall above them.[8]

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Pumori, China/Nepal". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2012-01-22.  The prominence value given here of 1,278 m is based on elevation of 7,138 m.
  2. ^ a b "Asia, Nepal, Jannu". Climbs and Expeditions. American Alpine Journal (New York: American Alpine Club) 13 (2): 517. 1963. Retrieved 2015-04-12. 
  3. ^ Parekh, Navnit. Himalayan Memoirs. India: Popular Prakashan. p. 37. ISBN 9780861321261. Retrieved 2015-04-12. 
  4. ^ Simpson, Joe (1999). Dark Shadows Falling. Mountaineers Books. ISBN 9780898865905. 
  5. ^ Fujita, Hiroshi (1975). "Asia, Nepal, Pumori, West Face". Climbs and Expeditions. American Alpine Journal (New York: American Alpine Club) 20 (49): 198. Retrieved 2015-04-12. 
  6. ^ Cheney, Michael (1987). "Asia, Nepal, Pumori Winter Ascent via East Face". Climbs and Expeditions. American Alpine Journal (New York: American Alpine Club) 29 (61): 238. ISBN 0-930410-29-7. Retrieved 2015-04-12. 
  7. ^ Bibler, Todd (1987). "Asia, Nepal, Pumori Winter Ascent". Climbs and Expeditions. American Alpine Journal (New York: American Alpine Club) 29 (61): 238. Retrieved 2015-04-12. 
  8. ^ a b Hawley, Elizabeth (1987). "Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Himal, Pumori, Ascent, Attempt, Tragedy". Climbs and Expeditions. American Alpine Journal (New York: American Alpine Club) 44 (76): 409. Retrieved 2015-04-12. 
  9. ^ "West Face of Pumori". paulholding.com. 5 Oct 2013. Retrieved 2015-04-12.