Pumori

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Pumori
Mt Pumori.jpg
View of Pumori from Everest Base Camp, Khumbu Valley
Elevation 7,161 m (23,494 ft)
Prominence 1,278 m (4,193 ft)[1]
Location
Pumori is located in Nepal
Pumori
Pumori
Location in Nepal
Location Nepal-Tibet
Range Himalayas
Coordinates 28°00′53″N 86°49′41″E / 28.01472°N 86.82806°E / 28.01472; 86.82806Coordinates: 28°00′53″N 86°49′41″E / 28.01472°N 86.82806°E / 28.01472; 86.82806
Climbing
First ascent 1962 by Gerhard Lenser
Easiest route snow/ice climb

Pumori (Nepali: पुमोरि) (or Pumo Ri) is a mountain on the Nepal-Tibet border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalaya. Pumori lies just eight kilometres west of Mount Everest. Pumori, which means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language, was named by George Mallory. Climbers sometimes refer to Pumori as "Everest's Daughter".

Pumori is a popular climbing peak and the easiest route is graded class 3, although with significant avalanche danger. Pumori was first climbed in 1962 by Gerhard Lenser on a German-Swiss expedition. Two Czechs (Leopold Sulovský and Zdeněk Michalec) climbed a new route on the south face in the spring of 1996 (Joe Simpson, 1997, Dark Shadows falling).

An outlier of Pumori is Kala Patthar (5,643m/18,513'), which appears as a big brown bump below the impressive south face of Pumori. Many trekkers going to see Mount Everest up close will attempt to climb to the top of Kala Patthar.

Notable ascents[edit]

  • 1962 FA by Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss expedition.
  • 1974 West Face new route by Alpine Club Unpo, Japan, summit reached by Minoru Takagi and Nobuyaki Kaneko on Oct 13.[2]
  • 1986 East Face new route by Hiroshi Aota and Yoshiki Sasahara (Japan) over three days, summiting on December 3.[3]
  • 1986 1985 Catalan Route on East Face, solo by Todd Bibler, summit reached December 5.[3]

Ski attempts[edit]

  • 2013 Seb de Sainte Marie and Paul Holding unsuccessfully attempted to climb and ski the West Face. An account of their trip can be read here

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Pumori, China/Nepal" The prominence value given here of 1,278 m is based on elevation of 7,138 m. Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2012-01-22.
  2. ^ Fujita, Hiroshi (1975). "Climbs and Expeditions 1974". American Alpine Journal (New York: American Alpine Club) 20 (49): 198–199. 
  3. ^ a b Cheney, Michael (1987). "Climbs and Expeditions 1986". American Alpine Journal (New York: American Alpine Club) 29 (61): 238. ISBN 0-930410-29-7.