Rock Master

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Rock Master artificial wall

Rock Master is an international climbing competition held every year in Arco.

The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday.

History[edit]

The history of Rock Master is linked to that of the first international races in the history of climbing. In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri.

Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and speed climbing competitions were also held.

Since 2006, during the event a jury assigns Arco Rock Legends, two awards are like the Oscars of climbing:

  • Salewa Rock Award with the athlete had the best performance of single pitch sport climbs and boulder
  • La Sportiva Competition Award for the best athlete who has competed in the previous competition season.

The competition is usually held the first weekend of September, with a few exceptions:

  • in 2010 has been brought forward to July as a pre-event of the World Championship of climbing that would take place in 2011. Instead of the usual two rounds (worked and view) a competition was held to only classical view in three rounds: qualifiers, semi-finals and finals.
  • in 2011 instead of the Rock Master was held in July at the Arco Climbing World Championship in 2011 . The title of the Rock Master was, however, given the evidence of the Duel, a competition demonstration that took place at the end of the World Championship and attended the first sixteen male and female athletes of the league lead.[1]

In 2012 the speed test was valid also as the fourth leg of the World Cup speed climbing 2012.[2]

Winners[edit]

Lead[edit]

Year Male Female
1987 Germany Stefan Glowacz United States Lynn Hill
1988 Germany Stefan Glowacz
France Patrick Edlinger
United States Lynn Hill
1989 France Didier Raboutou United States Lynn Hill
1990 France François Legrand United States Lynn Hill
1991 Japan Yuji Hirayama France Isabelle Patissier
1992 Germany Stefan Glowacz United States Lynn Hill
1993 Switzerland Elie Chevieux Switzerland Susi Good
1994 France François Legrand United States Robyn Erbesfield
1995 France François Lombard United States Laurence Guyon
1996 France François Lombard United States Katie Brown
1997 France François Legrand United States Katie Brown
1998 France François Legrand France Liv Sansoz
1999 Russia Eugeny Ovtchinnikov Belgium Muriel Sarkany
2000 Russia Eugeny Ovtchinnikov Belgium Muriel Sarkany
2001 Germany Christian Bindhammer
Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek
Japan Yuji Hirayama
Belgium Muriel Sarkany
Slovenia Martina Cufar
2002 France Alexandre Chabot France Sandrine Levet
2003 France Alexandre Chabot Austria Angela Eiter
2004 France Alexandre Chabot Austria Angela Eiter
2005 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Angela Eiter
2006 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque France Sandrine Levet
2007 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Angela Eiter
2008 Spain Patxi Usobiaga Austria Johanna Ernst
2009 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Angela Eiter
2010 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque South Korea Jain Kim
2011 - -
2012 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Angela Eiter
2013 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Slovenia Mina Markovič

Bouldering[edit]

Year Male Female
1999 Spain Daniel Andrada Russia Elena Choumilova
2000 Poland Tomasz Oleksy Russia Natalia Novikova
2001 Russia Salavat Rakhmetov France Corinne Théroux
2002 Italy Mauro Calibani Russia Ol'ga Jakovleva
2003 Italy Mauro Calibani Russia Olga Bibik
2004 Switzerland Matthias Müller France Mélanie Son
2005 Austria Kilian Fischhuber France Mélanie Son
2006 Finland Nalle Hukkataival Austria Anna Stöhr
2007 United Kingdom Gareth Parry Austria Anna Stöhr
2008 Austria Kilian Fischhuber Austria Katharina Saurwein
2009 Austria Kilian Fischhuber France Alizée Dufraisse
2010 Switzerland Cédric Lachat Austria Anna Stöhr
2011 - -
2012 Russia Dmitrij Šarafutdinov United States Alex Puccio
2013 Russia Rustam Gelmanov United States Alex Puccio

Speed[edit]

Year Male Female
1999 Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov
2000 Russia Alexei Gadeev
2001 Russia Iakov Soubotine
2002 Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2003 Russia Alexei Gadeev
2004 Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2005 Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2006 Russia Sergey Sinitsyn
2007 Russia Evgenij Vajcechovskij
2008 Venezuela Manuel Escobar UkraineOlena Ryepko
2009 Czech Republic Libor Hroza Poland Edyta Ropek
2010 Czech Republic Libor Hroza China Cuilian He
2011 - -
2012 Italy Leonardo Gontero Russia Alina Gaydamakina
2013 Czech Republic Libor Hroza Russia Alina Gaydamakina

Duel[edit]

Year Male Female
2011 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Russia Yana Chereshneva
2012 Austria Jakob Schubert Russia Dinara Fakhritdinova
2013 Canada Sean McColl Russia Dinara Fakhritdinova

Arco Rock Legends[edit]

Year Salewa Rock Award La Sportiva Competition Award
2006 Spain Josune Bereziartu Austria Angela Eiter
2007 Spain Patxi Usobiaga Austria David Lama
2008 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Maja Vidmar
2009 United States Chris Sharma Austria Kilian Fischhuber
2010 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2011 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque
2012 United States Sasha DiGiulian Austria Anna Stöhr
2013 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Mina Markovič

References[edit]

  1. ^ Vinicio Stefanello. "Rock Master Gran Galà – Duel". arco2011.it. Retrieved 1 April 2013. 
  2. ^ "Speed World Cup, historic victory for Leonardo Gontero and Gaydamakina". planetmountain.com. 1 September 2012. Retrieved 1 April 2013. 

Bibliography[edit]

  • Malfer, Giulio; Stefanello, Vinicio (2005). Rock Master. Nicolodi. ISBN 978-8884471949. 

External links[edit]