December 24, 1955|
Michigan, United States
|Died||May 11, 1996
Mount Everest, Nepal
Cause of death
|Known for||First American to summit Lhotse|
Scott E. Fischer (December 24, 1955 – May 11, 1996) was an American mountaineer and mountain guide. He is renowned for his ascents of the world's highest mountains made without the use of supplemental oxygen. Fischer and Wally Berg were the first Americans to summit of Lhotse, the world's fourth largest mountain (27,940 feet / 8516 m ), located next to Mount Everest. He and Ed Viesturs were the first Americans to summit K2, (28,251 feet/ 8611m) in the Karakoram of Pakistan. Fischer first summitted Mount Everest (29,029 feet / 8,848 m) in 1994, and died during the 1996 blizzard on Everest while descending from his second summit.
|This section does not cite any references or sources. (November 2014)|
Fischer spent his early life in Michigan and New Jersey and took two years of climbing courses after being inspired at the age of 14 by a show he saw on television. In 1982, he and his wife, Jean Price, moved west to Seattle, Washington, where they raised two children, Andy and Katie Rose.
In 1984, Fischer formed his own adventure company, Mountain Madness, which he set up to guide clients to the summits of the world's highest mountains for fees in the $50,000 range. In 1992, while climbing K2 successfully, he was involved in a rescue of Chantal Mauduit, a French climber who became severely snow blind. She went on to climb five more eight-thousanders but died in an avalanche on Dhaulagiri in 1998. From the 1992 season, Fischer brought a new level of commercialism to climbing adventures.
He died in the 1996 Everest disaster on May 10, one of the worst tragedies in the climbing history of Mount Everest. On May 10, 1996, Fischer, Anatoli Boukreev, and Neal Beidleman guided six of their clients—Pete Schoening and Dale Kruse had aborted their attempt due to health conditions—to the summit of Everest. On the descent, the team was caught in a severe snowstorm. All the climbers managed to reach Camp IV on the South Col (7,900 m or 25,900 feet), except Fischer.
Fischer, who had reached the summit at around 3:45 pm, had severe difficulties on the descent. He was accompanied by sardar Lopsang Jangbu, but just below the south summit, Fischer was unable to continue and finally convinced Lopsang to descend without him. Lopsang did so, hoping to be able to send someone else back up with additional oxygen and help Fischer to get down. Boukreev, after descending ahead of his clients earlier in the day, made several attempts to reach Fischer, but turned back on the first two attempts due to the weather, though he succeeded in rescuing several other stranded people. While Boukreev was rescuing clients Charlotte Fox and Sandy Pittman, two sherpas were able to reach Fischer and Taiwanese expedition leader Makalu Gau's position at around 7 pm on May 11, but by that time, Fischer had already died. Although severely frostbitten, Makalu Gau was rescued by the sherpas. Many[who?] speculate that Fischer had been suffering from a severe form of altitude sickness, either HACE or HAPE. A memorial cairn for Scott Fischer can be found at the top of a hill called Dugla Pass, near the village of Dugla, on the trail to Everest base camp. All Everest climbers using the southern route have to pass a group of five bodies, amongst them Fischer. In May 2010, the bodies of Swiss climber Gianni Goltz and Russian Sergej Duganow were removed. As of 2015[update], Fischer's body remains on the mountain. His family hopes to arrange for the retrieval and proper disposal of his remains.
In the TV movie Into Thin Air: Death on Everest, Fischer was played by Peter Horton.
- Birkby, Robert (2008). Mountain Madness: Scott Fischer, Mount Everest and a Life Lived On High. New York, NY: Citadel Press/Kensington Publishing Corp. ISBN 9780806528755. OCLC 882611111.