Sean McColl

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Sean McColl
BW 2012-08-26 Sean McColl CAN 0865.JPG
McColl competing at the 2012 Bouldering World Cup in Munich
Personal information
Name Sean McColl
Nationality Canadian
Born (1987-09-03) 3 September 1987 (age 27)
North Vancouver, Canada
Residence Toulouse, France
Climbing career
Major ascents
  • Dreamcatcher (5.14d), second ascent
  • Nagual (V13), flash
Updated on 15 July 2013.

Sean McColl (born 3 September 1987) is a professional rock climber from North Vancouver, Canada. He competes in the lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering disciplines, and has won major competitions in all three.

Biography[edit]

Sean McColl was born on 3 September 1987[1] in North Vancouver, Canada.[2] As of July 2013, he lives and trains in Chambery, France.[3] He is sponsored by Mammut, Walltopia, HRT, Joe Rockheads, La Sportiva, ACC, Clif Bar and Skratch. [4]

Competitions[edit]

McColl at the final event of the Bouldering World Cup 2012
McColl winning second place at the final event of the Bouldering World Cup 2012

Sean McColl found early success while training with the Canada Youth National Climbing Team.[5]:p. 34–38 He won the gold medal in lead climbing in his age group at the 2002, 2003, and 2004 Youth World Championships. In 2006, he won in both the lead and speed climbing categories, and was beginning to break into the top 20 finishes at adult competitions.[6] In February 2011, McColl won first place at the 12th Annual ABS Nationals bouldering competition in Boulder, Colorado.[7]

2012 was McColl's most successful competition season to date, with 10 podium finishes at major climbing competitions.[2] In September, McColl competed in the IFSC Climbing World Championships, where he placed second in lead climbing and fourth in bouldering. Although he did not win either event, he earned enough points to secure first place in the overall competition.[8] Two months later, he went to the PanAmerican Championships in Venezuela. He took first place in lead climbing and second place in bouldering, making him the first Canadian athlete to reach the podium at the competition.[9]

In May 2013, McColl earned his first Bouldering World Cup win at an event in Log Dragomer. He was the only male competitor to solve three of the four finals problems, taking first place over Jan Hojer and Dmitri Sarafutdinov.[10] One week later, McColl took fourth place at the World Cup in Innsbruck.[11] He placed fourth once again in June at the World Cup event in Vail.[12]

Notable ascents[edit]

In September 2009, McColl claimed the second ascent of Dreamcatcher, a sport route in Squamish, British Columbia. Rated 5.14d on the Yosemite Decimal System, Dreamcatcher is considered one of the hardest climbing routes in Canada. It was first established and climbed by Chris Sharma in 2005, and was unrepeated for four years despite efforts by Ethan Pringle, Sonnie Trotter and Paul Robinson.[13]

In March 2012, McColl competed in the Hueco Rock Rodeo, an annual outdoor bouldering competition in Hueco Tanks, Texas. During the competition, he completed Nagual (rated V13 on the V-scale) in one attempt, an accomplishment known as a "flash". McColl is one of few climbers to have flashed a bouldering problem with such a high degree of difficulty.[14]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^ "adidas Rockstars: Sean McColl". adidas. 2012. Retrieved 14 July 2013. 
  2. ^ a b MacDonald, Dougald. "2012 Golden Piton Awards". Climbing.com. Retrieved 5 July 2013. 
  3. ^ Stewart, Chris (1 July 2013). "Boulders Youth Climbers Benefit From Coaching Session With World Champion Sean McColl". Island Sports News. Retrieved 5 July 2013. 
  4. ^ http://seanmccoll.com/sponsors
  5. ^ Martel, Lynn (2008). Expedition to the Edge. Rocky Mountain Books. ISBN 9781897522097. 
  6. ^ MacDonald, Dougald (2006). "McColl Wins Twice at Youth Worlds". Retrieved 10 July 2013. 
  7. ^ Fox, Amanda (13 February 2011). "McColl, Puccio Win ABS 12 Nationals". Climbing.com. Retrieved 5 July 2012. 
  8. ^ Schiassi, Franz (17 September 2012). "World Climbing Championships 2012". Planet Mountain. Retrieved 5 July 2013. 
  9. ^ Larsen, Leia (12 November 2012). "DiGiulian, McColl Take Gold at PanAmerican Championships". Climbing.com. Retrieved 5 July 2013. 
  10. ^ "Bouldering World Cup 2013: Sean McColl and Anna Stöhr win in Log Dragomer". Planet Mountain. 13 June 2013. Retrieved 5 July 2013. 
  11. ^ "Germans Take Gold in Austrian World Cup". Climbing.com. 22 May 2013. Retrieved 10 July 2013. 
  12. ^ "Russian, Austrian Victories at Vail World Cup". 9 June 2013. Retrieved 10 July 2013. 
  13. ^ MacDonald, Dougald (24 September 2009). "McColl Bags Second Ascent of Dreamcatcher (5.14d)". Climbing.com. Retrieved 5 July 2013. 
  14. ^ Fox, Amanda (6 March 2012). "New V14s by Robinson, Graham". Climbing.com. Retrieved 10 July 2013.