Simone Moro (born 27 October 1967) is an Italian alpinist. He is best known for his first winter ascents of three of the eight-thousanders: Shisha Pangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009 and Gasherbrum II in 2011.
Born in Bergamo (Italy) from a middle-class family, he grew up in the borough of Valtesse, and was strongly supported by his father in his passion for the mountains. His father was a climber and biker at a high level and also created a lively and international environment around him. He started climbing the Presolana and other massifs of the Alpi Bergamasche at 13, however he continued his studies until graduating cum laude at the university.
Mountain climbing career
Simone Moro began his climbing activity in the Grigne, near his home city, and in the Dolomites. His father was his first Mentor followed by Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi. In this period he was primarily involved in rock climbing, an activity that has never left. In 1992 he participated to his first Himalayan expedition to Mount Everest. One year later Moro climbed Aconcagua, achieving the first winter summit of that peak.
Together with another Italian Silvio Mondinelli was negative protagonist scandal with getting Crown of the Himalayas. It turned out that the entrance to Lhotse in 1994, is a lie. Entering at the same time Ryszard Pawłowski said that they turned back from the ridge about 150 meters below the summit. Lhotse Moro attacked again in 1997, this time going longer on top.
In 1996 Moro climbed the west wall of Fitz Roy (3341 m in Patagonia) in 25 hours from the base to the summit and back to the base. In the same year he climbed Shisha Pangma South (8008 m) without oxygen in 27 hours using skis in the descent from 7100 meters. In Winter 1997 he attempted the South face of Annapurna. During this attempt his climbing companions Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev were lost under an avalanche. He tried Everest again in 1998; summited four peaks Pik Lenin (7134 m), Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), Ismoil Somoni Peak (7495 m, formerly known as Pik Kommunizma), Pik Khan Tengri (7010 m) with young Kazakhstan guide Denis Urubko; then summited with him Everest in 2000 and Marble Wall in winter 2001.
In May 2001 he tried traverse Everest-Lhotse: during an attempt on the wall of Lhotse at 8000 he abandoned the climb to search, rescue and save English alpinist Tom Moores. Moro was recipient of the Fair Play Pierre de Coubertin trophy from UNESCO, the Civilian Gold Medal from Italian president Carlo Azeglio Ciampi and the David A. Sowles Memorial Award from the American Alpine Club.
In 2002 he summited three peaks: Mount Vinson, Cho Oyu and Everest; summited three peaks: Broad Peak, Elbrus and Kilimanjaro in 2003, summited Baruntse along a new route and tried Shisha Pangma and Annapurna in 2004; Batura and Batokshi peaks in 2005, Broad Peak in winter 2006 and 2007. In 2005 he achieved the first winter summit of Shisha Pangma, with Piotr Morawski. In 2006 he completed the solo, south-north traverse of Everest descending from the top in 5 hours. In 2008 he achieved (with Herve Barmasse) the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6950 m Karakorum). The climbing was performed in pure alpine style and in 43 hours.
- 1996 - Shisha Pangma
- 1997 - Lhotse
- 2002 - Cho Oyu
- 2003 - Broad Peak
- 2005 - Shisha Pangma, first winter ascent
- 2009 - Makalu, first winter ascent
- 2000, 2002, 2006, 2010 - Mount Everest
- 2011 - Gasherbrum II, first winter ascent
- Moro, Simone (2003). Cometa sull'Annapurna (in Italian). Corbaccio. ISBN 9788879725903.
- Moro, Simone (2008). 8000 metri di vita (in Italian). Grafica e Arte. ISBN 9788872012727.
- "Moro and Morawski first winter ascent of Shisha Pangma!". planetmountain.com. 14 January 2005. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Simone y Piotr coronan el Shisha" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 14 January 2005. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- Dougald MacDonald. "Moro, Urubko Summit Makalu in Winter". climbing.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Simone Moro and Denis Urubko: Makalu first winter ascent". planetmountain.com. 9 February 2009. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- Daniel Starr (2 February 2011). "First Winter Ascent of an 8000m Peak in Pakistan". alpinist.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- Vinicio Stefanello (2 February 2011). "Gasherbrum II, historic first winter ascent: summit for Moro, Urubko and Richards!". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Moro and Urubku reach the summit of Everest". planetmountain.com. 26 May 2000. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Fair Play award winners". fairplayinternational.org. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Moro Simone - Medaglia d'oro al valor civile" (in Italian). quirinale.it. 4 December 2012. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "David A. Sowles Memorial Award". americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Cho Oyu summit for Moro, Nicolini and Mezzanotte". planetmountain.com. 9 May 2002. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Curnis and Moro summit Everest". planetmountain.com. 24 May 2002. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Broad Peak success for Moro, Ochoa, Lafaille, Viesturs". planetmountain.com. 16 July 2003. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Himalaya: Simone Moro compie la traversata dell'Everest da Sud a Nord" (in Italian). planetmountain.com. 20 May 2006. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- Lindsay Griffin (11 August 2008). "History and Details from Beka Brakai Chhok". alpinist.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- Tim Neville (2 May 2013). "Brawl On Everest: Ueli Steck’s Story". outsideonline.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Ueli Steck Attacked on Everest". rockandice.com. 28 April 2013. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Everest: Moro, Steck and Griffith attacked at 7200m". planetmountain.com. 29 April 2013. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- Manoj Kumar Shrestha (28 April 2013). "Three foreigners thrashed at Everest base camp". thehimalayantimes.com. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Everest 2013". simonemoro.com. 28 April 2013. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
- "Everest, ascents from Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc and Simone Moro". planetmountain.com. 24 May 2010. Retrieved 19 June 2013.
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