Siula Grande

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Siula Grande
Siulá Grande
Siula Grande West Face.jpg
The west face of Siula Grande taken from the col with Yerupaja.
Elevation 6,344 m (20,814 ft)
Listing List of mountains in Peru
Location
Siula Grande is located in Peru
Siula Grande
Siula Grande
Peru
Range Andes, Waywash
Coordinates 10°17′S 76°53′W / 10.283°S 76.883°W / -10.283; -76.883Coordinates: 10°17′S 76°53′W / 10.283°S 76.883°W / -10.283; -76.883
Climbing
First ascent July 28, 1936[1]
Easiest route glacier/snow/ice climb

Siula Grande is a mountain in the Waywash mountain range in the Peruvian Andes. It is 6,344 metres (20,814 ft) high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, 6,260 m (20,540 ft) high.[2]

Touching the void ascent[edit]

In 1985 Siula Grande was climbed by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. Their ascent was made famous by Simpson's book Touching the Void, which describes the ascent and subsequent harrowing descent of the mountain. The book was made into a film of the same title in 2003. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose the North Ridge (first descended in 1936 by an Austrian team) for their descent which was made almost impossible by horrible weather which in turn caused Joe Simpson to fall and severely break his leg. All subsequent climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled back down the face.

First ascents list[edit]

This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made.

  • 28 July 1936 North Ridge by Arnold Awerzger and Erwin Schneider from Austria.[3][4]
  • 21 June 1966 fourth ascent by Obster, Schulz and M. Sturm via the North ridge en route to Siula Chico[5]
  • 1985 West Face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates[4]
  • 1999 Peru West Face Touching The Void (new route) by Carlos Buhler.[4] (Buhler's route followed the Yates/Simpson route for much of the ascent, and Buhler christened it "Avoiding the Touch")
  • 13 July 2001 "Southern Discomfort", south face by Michel van der Spek, Jay Burbee, and Jeremy Frimer
  • 17 July 2001 Noches de "Juerga", west face[4]
  • 3 July 2002 Northeast Face, Los Rapidos by Slovenes Marjan Kovač and Pavle Kozjek[6][7]
  • August 2002 Mammut Tracks, west face, by Rogier van Rijn and Eva Oomen

Siula Chico[edit]

Siula Chico is a subpeak about 6,260 m (20,540 ft) high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately 6,000-metre (20,000 ft) col. Mountaineers considered the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so conquered by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition.[8] Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in May 2007.[2]

Notes[edit]

  1. ^ "Siula Grande peak details". 2014-07-22. 
  2. ^ a b Lambert 2007.
  3. ^ Sturm 1967, p. 322.
  4. ^ a b c d "Title unknown". American Alpine Journal: 305. 2002. 
  5. ^ Sturm 1967, p. 325.
  6. ^ Kojzek, Pavle (1 December 2002). "Siula Grande". alpinist.com. Retrieved 2007-12-01. 
  7. ^ "Nueva ruta en la pared noreste del Siula Grande" (in Spanish). Vertimania. 2002. Retrieved 2007-12-01. [dead link]
  8. ^ Sturm 1967, p. 324.

References[edit]

External links[edit]