Siula Grande
| Siula Grande | |
|---|---|
| Siulá Grande | |
 Carnicero, Siula Grande, Yerupaya Grande and Rasac (from right to left) as seen from Paso San Antonio (looking north). |
|
| Elevation | 6,344 m (20,814 ft) |
| Listing | List of mountains in Peru |
| Location | |
 Siula Grande
 Peru |
|
| Range | Cordillera Huayhuash |
| Coordinates | 10°17′S 76°53′W / 10.283°S 76.883°WCoordinates: 10°17′S 76°53′W / 10.283°S 76.883°W |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | 1936 |
| Easiest route | glacier/snow/ice climb |
Siula Grande is a mountain in the Cordillera Huayhuash, in the Peruvian Andes. It is 6,344 m high and has a subpeak, Siula Chico, 6,260 m high.[1]
[edit] Touching the Void ascent
In 1985 Siula Grande was climbed by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates. Their ascent was made famous by Simpson's book Touching the Void, which describes the ascent and subsequent harrowing descent of the mountain by him and Simon Yates. The book was made into a film of the same title in 2003. Although they ascended the West face, and thereby became the first to reach the summit by that route, they chose the North Ridge (first descended in 1936 by an Austrian team) for their descent, which was made almost impossible by horrible weather. All subsequent climbers have avoided the ridge and rappelled back down the face. As of 2009 the south face has not been climbed.
[edit] First ascents list
This is a partial list of first ascents by new routes made.
- 1936 July 28 North Ridge by Arnold Awerzger and Erwin Schneider from Austria.[2][3]
- 1966 June 21 fourth ascent by Obster, Schulz and M. Sturm via the North ridge en route to Siula Chico[4]
- 1985 West Face by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates[3]
- 1999 Peru West Face Touching The Void (new route) by Carlos Buhler.[3] (Buhler's route followed the Yates/Simpson route for much of the ascent, and Buhler christened it "Avoiding The Touch")
- 2001 July 17 Noches de "Juerga", west face[3]
- 2002 July 3 Northeast Face, Los Rapidos by Slovenes Marjan Kovač and Pavle Kozjek[5][6]
- 2002 August Mammut Tracks, west face, by Rogier van Rijn and Eva Oomen
[edit] Siula Chico
Siula Chico is a subpeak about 6260 metre high separated from Siula Grande by an approximately 6000 metre col. Mountaineers considered the easiest route to its summit was via Siula Grande's summit and it was so conquered by Manfred Sturm's 1966 expedition.[7] Spanish alpinists Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro made the first ascent of Chico's west face, and second ascent of the peak, in 2007 May.[1]
[edit] Notes
- ^ a b Lambert
- ^ Sturm page 322
- ^ a b c d American Alpine Journal 2002 page 305
- ^ Sturm page 325
- ^ Pavle Kojzek (2002-12-01). "Siula Grande". alpinist.com. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP01/climbing-note-kojzek. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
- ^ "Nueva ruta en la pared noreste del Siula Grande" (in Spanish). Vertimania. 2002. http://www.vertimania.com.mx/noticias/nueva_ruta_en_la_pared_noreste_del_Siula.htm. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
- ^ Sturm page 324
[edit] References
- Manfred Sturm; Translator: H. Adams Carter. The Road to Siula Chico. Deutscher Alpenverein. http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1967/Sturm_SiulaChi1967_322-325.pdf. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
- "Peru". American Alpine Journal. 2002. http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/2002/294_peru_aaj2002.pdf. Retrieved 2007-12-01.[dead link]
- Erik Lambert (2007-07-11). "FIRST ASCENT OF SIULA CHICO'S WEST FACE". alpinist.com. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP20/newswire-peru-siula-chico-west. Retrieved 2007-12-01.
[edit] External links
- "Information about Siula Grande". andes.org.uk. http://www.andes.org.uk/peak-info-6000/siula-info.htm. Retrieved 2007-12-01. - photos
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