Smoking jacket
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
A smoking jacket is an overgarment[1] designed for the purposes of smoking tobacco, usually in the form of pipes and cigars, or for domestic leisure.
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[edit] Design
The classic smoking jacket is a waist-length jacket made from velvet or silk, or both. It has a shawl collar and turn-up cuffs and toggle or button fastenings.
In the 1850s, The Gentlemen's Magazine of London defined the smoking jacket as a "kind of short robe de chambre, of velvet, cashmere, plush, merino or printed flannel, lined with bright colours, ornamented with brandenbourgs, olives or large buttons."[2]
[edit] History
In the 17th century, goods began flowing into Europe from the Americas, bringing in spices, tobacco, coffee, and silks. It became fashionable to be depicted in one's portrait wearing a silk robe de chambre, or dressing gown. One of the earliest mentions of this garment comes from Samuel Pepys, who desired to be depicted in his portrait in a silk gown but could not afford one, and so rented one:
"Thence home and eat one mouthful, and so to Hale's and there sat till almost quite dark upon working my gowne, which I hired to be drawn [in] it—an Indian gown, and I do see all the reason to expect a most excellent picture of it."—Diary, 30 March 1666[3]
The short smoking jacket soon evolved from these silk garments. When the Crimean War during the 1850s popularized Turkish tobacco in England, smoking gained in popularity. After dinner, a gentleman might put on a smoking jacket and retreat to a den or smoking room. The jacket was intended to absorb the smoke from his cigar or pipe and protect his clothing from falling ash.[2]
The smoking jacket remained a popular accessory into the 20th century. An editorial in the Washington Post in 1902 gave the opinion that the smoking jacket was "synonymous with comfort."[4], while a Pennsylvania newspaper opined in 1908 that it would be "putting it mildly to say that a new House Coat or Smoking Jacket will give any man reason for elation."[5]
In the 1950s, famous wearers included Cary Grant, Fred Astaire (who was buried in a smoking jacket), Frank Sinatra, and Dean Martin.[2]
[edit] The modern smoking jacket
Smoking jackets have declined in popularity since the 1950s, though a minority of wearers still exists, Playboy mogul Hugh Hefner being a notable example. Cigar Aficionado stated that it was time the smoking jacket be brought back, perhaps as an "alternative type of formalwear."[3]
The designer Fiona Carswell has invented a "smoking jacket" that contains a pair of "lungs" that act as an iconographic warning system. The "lungs" contain an air filter; the smoker blows into a "container" in the collar, and, with repeated exposure to smoke, the lungs darken. The artist states that the jacket provides a "visceral, comic information [display that] could cause self-awareness and reflection."[6]
[edit] References
- ^ Wiktionary, overgarment
- ^ a b c McCormack, Derek (Dec. 18, 2007). "Consider the smoking jacket". Edmonton Journal. http://www2.canada.com/edmontonjournal/news/sports/story.html?id=c70b935c-da8c-4276-a128-f150c1410c66. Retrieved on 2009-02-12.
- ^ a b Boyer, G. Bruce (Jan/Feb 1999). "Where there's smoke...". Cigar Aficionado. http://www.cigaraficionado.com/Cigar/CA_Features/CA_Feature_Basic_Template/0,2344,598,00.html. Retrieved on 2009-02-12.
- ^ "The Joy of Slippers". The Washington Post. Aug. 2, 1908. http://pqasb.pqarchiver.com/washingtonpost_historical/access/249515112.html?dids=249515112:249515112&FMT=ABS&FMTS=ABS:FT&date=AUG+02%2C+1908&author=&pub=The+Washington+Post. Retrieved on 2009-02-12.
- ^ "House Coats and Bath Robes". Oil City Derrick. Dec. 7, 1908.
- ^ "The Smoking Jacket". we make money not art. May 21, 2007. http://www.we-make-money-not-art.com/archives/2007/05/the-smoking-jac.php. Retrieved on 2009-02-12.
[edit] See also
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