Smoking jacket

James FitzGerald wearing a smoking jacket in 1868

A smoking jacket is an overgarment designed to be worn while smoking tobacco, usually in the form of pipes and cigars, or for domestic leisure.

Design

The classic smoking jacket is a mid thigh-length jacket made from velvet, silk, or both. It has a shawl collar and turn-up cuffs and toggle or button fastenings, or may simply be closed with a tie belt.

In the 1850s, the Gentlemen's Magazine of London defined the smoking jacket as a "kind of short robe de chambre, of velvet, cashmere, plush, merino or printed flannel, lined with bright colours, ornamented with brandenbourgs, olives or large buttons."

History

In the 17th century, goods began flowing into Europe from the Americas, bringing in spices, tobacco, coffee and silks. It became fashionable to be depicted in one's portrait wearing a silk robe de chambre, or dressing gown. One of the earliest mentions of this garment comes from Samuel Pepys, who desired to be depicted in his portrait in a silk gown but could not afford one, and so rented one:

"Thence home and eat one mouthful, and so to Hale's and there sat till almost quite dark upon working my gowne, which I hired to be drawn (in) it—an Indian gown, and I do see all the reason to expect a most excellent picture of it." —Diary, 30 March 1666

The short smoking jacket soon evolved from these silk garments. When the Crimean War during the 1850s popularised Turkish tobacco in England, smoking gained in popularity. After dinner, a gentleman might put on a smoking jacket and retreat to a den or smoking room. The jacket was intended to absorb the smoke from his cigar or pipe and protect his clothing from falling ash.

The smoking jacket remained a popular accessory into the 20th century. An editorial in the Washington Post in 1902 gave the opinion that the smoking jacket was "synonymous with comfort", while a Pennsylvania newspaper opined in 1908 that it would be "putting it mildly to say that a new House Coat or Smoking Jacket will give any man reason for elation."

In the 1950s, famous wearers included Cary Grant, Fred Astaire (who was buried in a smoking jacket), Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin.

Modern smoking jacket

Smoking jackets have declined in popularity since the 1950s, though a minority of wearers still exists, Playboy mogul Hugh Hefner being a notable example. In its Jan/Feb 1999 issue, Cigar Aficionado stated that it was time the smoking jacket be brought back, perhaps as an "alternative type of formalwear".

A modern, more versatile version of the smoking jacket has been created by the San Francisco-based Betabrand clothing company. Their "Reversible Smoking Jacket" was initially a quirky joke when they discovered that their corduroy jacket could be turned inside out to show off the ornately patterned lining, but is now marketed with emphasis on that feature. An instpired style of wear can be seen on Will Smith in The Fresh Prince of Bel Air.

See also

• Dressing gown
• Smoking cap
• Smoking room
• French (and German): http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smoking (dress)