|This is the talk page for discussing improvements to the Automotive battery article.|
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- 1 little dusting of the deep cycle battery
- 2 "Charging" section mentions "gassing"
- 3 This article should mention non Lead Acid batteries
- 4 Reversion history
- 5 Explosion risks
- 6 Typical metal content
- 7 Environmental impacts of car batteries
- 8 Exploding Batteries: revisited
- 9 Prolonging battery life with "pulsers" or "activators"?
- 10 Recyclable
- 11 myth of car battery discharging when placed on ground
- 12 Epyon nano batteries?
- 13 Possible censoring / Sabotage of article?
- 14 Car Battery Sizes?
- 15 Positive ground
- 16 Rename
- 17 Requested move
- 18 Weight
- 19 Freshness
- 20 Battery correct capacity
- 21 charger
- 22 Terminal voltage
- 23 batery problem
- 24 batery problem
- 25 Merge with Lead-acid battery
- 26 12.6 volts at full charge.
little dusting of the deep cycle battery
Could any of your battery-geniuses maybe do a little dusting of the deep cycle battery -article? I'm really just starting to learn about energy-storage like this, and felt I should flag some folks over to beef up another energy-article. Koyae (talk) 15:13, 11 November 2009 (UTC)
"Charging" section mentions "gassing"
The "Charging" section mentions "gassing"-- I think this term should be defined in context or linked to an explanation. I assume it refers to the production of hydrogen gas discussed under the "exploding batteries" section, but I am not 100% sure. Dr. Queso, too lazy to log in. —Preceding unsigned comment added by 22.214.171.124 (talk) 19:48, 3 August 2010 (UTC)
This article should mention non Lead Acid batteries
Some cars (I believe Porsche sells one) use Li Ion or some other form of battery because of the weight of the batteries. Other non lead acid batteries should be mentioned as cars will use alternatives more as the prices come down. It can save gas and take off a few pounds (which super cars love doing). Also mention automotive batteries used as a way to move the vehicle such as an EV or hybrid like the Prius. 126.96.36.199 (talk) 19:27, 21 April 2012 (UTC)
- Over 99% of cars on the road use lead-acid batteries, so I see no reason to promote exceptions. I suggest referring (or creating) a separate article on alternatives to lead-acid types, or alternative uses such as EV or hybrids. This article is general in nature and focuses on the typical applications (and some hazards) of using lead-acid batteries. This article isn't intended to discuss the pros and cons of alternative battery types for automotive applications. Other articles may be referenced.--188.8.131.52 (talk) 23:55, 23 April 2012 (UTC)
A little explanation about what happened here. I worked on the article trying to fix the English, etc... but a few hours later, User:DV8 2XL reverted my edits. I disagreed with his/her accession and saw on the talk page that there was a flag of vandalism by User:Tisquantum, and so I requested help and a second opinion from what I thought was an admin.
I apologize for my mistake. I still think the revert by User:DV8 2XL lowered the quality of the article, but I now believe they were made in good faith. I reverted everything that happened; but I still plan to work again on fixing this article :)
Tony Bruguier 03:37, 31 January 2006 (UTC)
- I'm the one that should apologize Tony, I made the revert in haste without looking closely, I hope we can work together to get this article in shape. I am responsible for the "terms used for automobile battery power ratings" section as an anon (from work) so I do have some stake the the page. Again sorry I reverted back to your last version ( with a few small changes)--DV8 2XL 09:35, 31 January 2006 (UTC)
Not that long ago I had my car battery explode, lead acid variety - turns out it was a wet cell and ran out of water. Could a note be added to this page about that? I would just think that an anon edit about exploding batteries would be considered vandalism. --184.108.40.206 03:16, 15 July 2006 (UTC)
- Huh? Most car batteries are sealed. They shouldn't need to be watered. As an aside, I've learned through renewable energy magazine that if you DO have a wet and open battery, you should use a hydrometer to check water levels every day, and HydroCaps (or some other brand) can lower the need to water substantially (according to Richard Perez of Home Power magazine, who tested them on his marine batteries for several months). Usually, car batteries explode because someone (hmmm) hooked the leads up backwards while, say, jumping a car with another battery. Putting a wrench across the leads can do it too : )
- Adding someone about your battery exploding wouldn't be vandalism, but would be original research. You'd need to find article explaning how and when and why car batteries explode. Source that, and it'll be great. 220.127.116.11 12:41, 29 November 2006 (UTC)
I don't know anything about a "renewable energy magazine" nor have I heard of a "wet and open" battery. I was in the automotive battery business for fifteen years, though, and I can tell you some batteries have removable caps and some don't. The batteries with non-removable caps are not "sealed". They have a venting system just like the ones with removable caps. A hydrometer is NOT used to check water levels, and either way a required daily check is silly. Finally, from my experience, most car batteries explode because a broken internal connection or an external source creates a spark in the presence of hydrogen and causes the sometimes severe explosion.Jimpatnmatt (talk) 00:04, 24 November 2010 (UTC)
- It's sometimes useful to look at the dates of comments; 4 years is a long time to go between contributions to a thread. --Wtshymanski (talk) 03:14, 24 November 2010 (UTC)
- Sorry, I didn't pay any attention to the dates. I guess misinformation doesn't improve with age.Jimpatnmatt (talk) —Preceding undated comment added 23:38, 24 November 2010 (UTC).
- Much has been said about "exploding batteries" and the hazards of overcharging (which also causes the water in electrolyte to be lost in the form of Hydrogen and Oxygen gasses). Short circuiting can also cause internal resistance of the battery to generate heat in discharge, boiling the electrolyte and also risking explosion. Either way - don't do that.--18.104.22.168 (talk) 00:52, 25 April 2012 (UTC)
Typical metal content
Can someone tell me the typical metal content of a lead acid car battery?
Hi, Can someone help me out with the following car problem: As soon as I accelerate while driving the dash board lights consisting of the battery, A/T Oil, engine etc light up & the battery meter drops to halfway on the gage - but if I pull over & turn off the engine & restart it, no problems at all - only when accelerating.
- Take it to a shop, Tyrell. This is not a forum for diagnosing car problems. IMO battery is unlikely to be the problem.--22.214.171.124 (talk) 00:58, 25 April 2012 (UTC)
Environmental impacts of car batteries
Can anyone add information about the environmental impacts of car batteries? I often wonder whether people who are buying hybrid vehicles are doing more damage due to the batteries which are required. informedbanker 16:14, 20 May 2007 (UTC)
Exploding Batteries: revisited
I have added a section on the problem of exploding batteries to address the issues already raised. I am a consulting forensic engineer, and dealt with a recent problem where a mechanic lost an eye through lifting an old battery from a car. I am posting the section because it is an unusual hazard that users should know about so as to prevent possible future problems. Peterlewis 16:37, 20 May 2007 (UTC)
Prolonging battery life with "pulsers" or "activators"?
The german version Starterbatterie  contains a reference to Rahmann-Solarstrom  (a solar energy company) which contains a good description on how pulsers ("Megapulse", , engl. short description available) and "activators" are supposed to work including a link to the manufacturer of the "megapulse".
The "Megapulse" is supposed to work with a high current and a frequency of 3,26 KHz to destroy sulfation crystals (Lead(II) sulfate, supposed to be their inherent frequency).
The cheaper "Activator" sends a very high current of 80A - 100A every 15s through the lead-acid battery. Both devices are powered by the battery itself.
I think this would be a good addition to the english article as well but this is the first time I contribute.
I would also like to find facts / test results / links and user experiences about such devices and other alternatives which are not known or availabe in germany as the very comprehensive "Battery University"  does not cover this and just mentions pulsed charging in BU13. The "Battery University" is already linked at the Lead-acid_battery article.
126.96.36.199 23:39, 31 August 2007 (UTC) runeb / Germany
- If a battery is solidly sulfated, nothing will help. I wouldn't add references to various battery restorers as in general, they can't work. Once the active material is gone off the plates, it's gone - no chemistry or physics will restore it. --Wtshymanski 02:47, 1 September 2007 (UTC)
- Even if they work only sometimes they should be mentioned, probably in their own article, just because they exit ;-).
- 188.8.131.52 21:39, 1 September 2007 (UTC) runeb / Germany
- Even if they work only sometimes they should be mentioned, probably in their own article, just because they exit ;-).
- The activators do not claim to restore the material to the electrodes (plates), they claim to remove the sulphate crystals which cover the active surface of the plates and so increase the surface usable for the chemical process during charge and discharge. So I agree they cannot repair batteries whith no reaction mass left or which are shortened by fallout which accumulated over time on the bottom of the battery until it reaches the plates.
- Runeb2 (talk) 14:04, 8 December 2008 (UTC)
- I found that this article now contains a link to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sulfation_%28Battery%29#Sulfation_and_desulfation (redirects to "Lead–acid battery") which contains a section about the topic I requested.
- Runeb2 (talk) 10:07, 18 September 2013 (UTC)
- I added my 2¢ on this topic. "Core" fee at auto parts store, etc.— ¾-10 00:49, 12 January 2008 (UTC)
- Gee, my "core fee" on a new battery was $12, and I had to pay it despite not turning in an old battery. So now I have to keep a receipt for 10 years and MAYBE avoid paying another disposal fee?--184.108.40.206 (talk) 23:58, 23 April 2012 (UTC)
myth of car battery discharging when placed on ground
Hi, is the myth true that a car battery can discharging when placed directly on the ground?
- In general, no - the battery case is insulating. Both the positive and negative terminals must have a resistive path to ground for that to happen - not likely with the battery itself, unless the terminals are touching the floor surface. Some spilled electrolyte on the case could create such a path, but that is abnormal. However, any battery sitting around long enough, whether on the ground or not, will discharge over time. --220.127.116.11 (talk) 00:01, 24 April 2012 (UTC)
Epyon nano batteries?
- I am wondering also about this Firefly composite battery technology-> Is is better than Nanosafe and all the rest litium batteries??http://www.fireflyenergy.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=204&Itemid=89 —Preceding unsigned comment added by 18.104.22.168 (talk) 14:58, 30 September 2008 (UTC)
- Suggest take that topic to some other forum. Not applicable to Automotive battery, or specific brands unless there is a clear technological variation.--22.214.171.124 (talk) 00:03, 24 April 2012 (UTC)
Possible censoring / Sabotage of article?
I am wondering where did all the new battery tech info go from the article??? Some one has deleted all Lithium car battery //other futuristic data.
If I am correct this article should be in general about all car batteries, not only about Lead Acid batteries??
Now there is 2 similar articles about Lead Acid batteries:
- there are three classes of Lead-acid battery (gel, AGM-sealed, and Flooded). Cars generally use the last two types. Car in general refers to lead-acid - over 99% of cars on the road use this technology. Alternative batteries deserve separate articles until such time as they become mainstream.--126.96.36.199 (talk) 00:06, 24 April 2012 (UTC)
Also note the voltage/charge numbers on this page are inaccurate.
Car Battery Sizes?
Are the different sizes?
- Absolutely. Motorcycles use much smaller batteries than cars, for example. Trucks with larger engines need more starting power than smaller cars. --188.8.131.52 (talk) 01:08, 25 April 2012 (UTC)
Are vehicles of significantly different sizes and/or with significantly different engine sizes equipped with different sized batteries?
- There is no standard formula. Obviously car makers want to save money and for weight/fuel efficiency, would prefer to use the smallest battery that can start the car. But customers also want reliable starting over a long period of time, and margin for other electrical loads not related to starting.--184.108.40.206 (talk) 01:08, 25 April 2012 (UTC)
In the "Changing a battery" section, it's mentioned that some older cars had a positive ground and that it caused corrosion problems. A positive ground is counter-intuitive, so there must have been a reason for doing it in the first place. My memory is hazy, but about 50 years ago I think I read somewhere that the positive ground reduced spark plug electrode erosion. Can anyone expand on this? --220.127.116.11 (talk) 21:01, 4 July 2009 (UTC)
- Historically it relates to corrosion on telegraph terminals, which is quite irrelevant to cars - but some standard had to be picked. Negative ground won over time. Technologically (at least in cars) it should not matter, other than the electrical equipment in all cars built in the last 50 year or more all use negative ground. I know of no advantage to changing to positive ground, and by deviating from the standard, there is likely to be cost detriment in today's technology.--18.104.22.168 (talk) 01:16, 25 April 2012 (UTC)
Why? Car battery is the _widely_ accepted term.
As a somewhat poor - but indicative point - compare the google hits - 90000 vs 1.6 million.
Starter battery is also an incorrect term. The battery is used for far more - in a modern car - than simply starting. It's used for running assorted electrics when the engine is not running, and also performs a role in regulation of the vehicles main bus voltage.
- Agreed. An arbitrary choice, but fairly easily fixed. --Wtshymanski (talk) 03:25, 28 August 2009 (UTC)
Weight ranges of common automotive battery types may be helpful. Are they extremely heavy, light as a feather? One might infer from "lead" that they are heavy, but for completeness I suggest information on weight may be provided. Perhaps, even weight to power ratios and how they compare to other energy sources may be valuable as well.
- It's an ill-defined question. Which is heavier, a kilogram of bricks or a ton of feathers? According to the Interstate batteries Web site, a replacement battery for my car (two door, 6 cylinder) would weigh 44 lbs. A motorcycle or garden tractor battery would be less, (Kawasaki motor cycle 6 Volt is 1.94 lbs.) and something in an earthmover or highway tractor would be quite a bit more (Caterpillar D9N 99.2 lbs). We could make the incredibly fatuous observation that big batteries are heavier than little batteries, but such generalizations are useless to the reader. --Wtshymanski (talk) 13:54, 8 July 2011 (UTC)
Under the Freshness section, a "top-up" charge of up to 15.1V is recommended for new (12v) batteries prior to installation. Gassing voltage is 14.4 V elsewhere in the article. Excessive overcharging is dangerous (read "exploding batteries"). I removed material from this section until safety is verified.--22.214.171.124 (talk) 22:54, 18 July 2011 (UTC)
Battery correct capacity
Batteries run out every few years. To prevent this the industry needs to build a battery with multiple chambers which run out of sulfur in each chamber. When one chamber runs out of sulfur it moves to the next. I think a electrolysis version of electromagnetism can devert the liquid slowly and effectively. Say if you have a 4 chamber 12 volt. The 12 volt chamber would divert the liquid after the sulfur runs out in one chamber to the next via cylinder holes lodge in the chamber. The more the battery is used, the higher the holes get. Therefore the battery lasts much longer. This quadruples the lifespan of your standard 3 year 12 volt ac battery. — Preceding unsigned comment added by Asfd777 (talk • contribs) 15:00, 1 October 2012 (UTC)
my charger has less AMP then my battery is that ok. mine is at 550 only 400 and 750 were available. Also my battery keeps discharging and I don't drive much like 1 fill up a monthMrp8196 (talk) 18:15, 24 July 2011 (UTC)
- You'd have better luck asking at the Reference Desk or possible calling into Car Talk. Recall that the battery charger can run for a long time to restore energy to the battery, but the battery's ampere rating is a measure of how much current can be drawn for a short time to crank an engine. There are many devices in car that draw current even when the car is stopped, so you'd need to talk to someone familiar with your make and model to suggest what is discharging it; even a small bulb in the glove box can run down the battery after a few days, or the standby load from all the electronic devices (alarm system, etc.) --Wtshymanski (talk) 18:46, 24 July 2011 (UTC)
- "All voltages are at 20 °C, and must be adjusted -0.022V/°C for temperature changes (negative temperature coefficient - lower voltage at higher temperature)."
This sentence is unclear. There are two voltages, the actual battery voltage, and the voltage in the table. As temperature drops, the open-circuit output voltage of an actual battery drops; so battery voltage has positive temp coefficient. To allow for low temps, you can either add a bit on to the measured voltage, or subtract a bit from the values in the table. This needs to be stated explicitly. I also find it a bit weird to talk about a bit of tabulated data having a -ve temperature coefficient or a voltage.
Also, I have seen wildly variable values for the actual temperature coefficent. I think some of this is caused by people getting muddled between °C and °F, but sometimes it varies by an order of magnitude. It probably depends on chemistry a bit. Could a reference be provided? JBel (talk) 23:33, 30 January 2012 (UTC)
Merge with Lead-acid battery
12.6 volts at full charge.
Except that this is the "automotive battery" article, and most "automotive batteries" are charged twice a day, and, as claimed lower down, it only ever drops to that value after it has been left uncharged for a day, so you wouldn't expect a fully charged automotive battery to actually be at 12.6, unless there was something wrong. Perhaps use a range in the header? "12.6 - 13.8V at full charge" — Preceding unsigned comment added by 126.96.36.199 (talk) 23:53, 6 October 2014 (UTC)