Teram Kangri

Teram Kangri
Teram Kangri Location on disputed India, Pakistan and China border
Elevation	7,462 m (24,482 ft)  Ranked 56th
Prominence	1,702 m (5,584 ft)
Listing	Ultra
Location
Location	controlled by India and China, claimed by Pakistan
Range	Siachen Muztagh (Karakoram)
Coordinates	35°34′48″N 77°04′42″E
Climbing
First ascent	1975 by K. Kodaka and Y. Kobayashi (Japanese)
Easiest route	glacier/snow/ice climb

The Teram Kangri (Chinese: Tèlāmùkǎnlì 特拉木坎力) group is a mountain massif in the remote Siachen Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range. The high point of the group, and of the Siachen Muztagh, is Teram Kangri I. The peak lies on the boundary between China and the disputed Siachen Glacier region near the line of control between India and Pakistan. The northeast side of the peak is in Chinese-controlled territory, the southwest side in the disputed Siachen area currently controlled by India. Teram Kangri I was first climbed on August 10, 1975 by a Japanese expedition led by H. Katayama, which obtained a permit from the Govt. of Pakistan and made the long approach via Bilafond La (the Saltoro Pass). They climbed the SW ridge of Teram Kangri II and then took the East ridge to the top(the first ascent). Teram Kangri II was climbed on August 12 and 13 by six Japanese climbers. This was yet another of Pakistan's forward moves in Siachen oropolitics.

Teram Kangri II (7,407 m) was climbed by an Indian Army expedition led by Colonel N. Kumar in 1978 in the first counter-move by India to Pakistan's 'oropolitical' assertion of claim to the Siachen Glacier area. Teram Kangri I has been climbed once since, in 1992. The expedition approached through Indian territory.

Teram Kangri III 35°35′59″N 77°02′53″E (7,382 m ranked 73rd, Prominence = 500 m) was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by S. Hanada. Their route crossed over Bilafond La, much like the first ascent of Teram Kangri I.

Sources

• Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich, 1990.
• Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989.
• Himalayan Index