Tongariro Alpine Crossing

The most famous part the Tongariro Alpine Crossing with the Emerald Lakes and the Blue Lake, typically crowded on a beautiful autumn day 2004.

Panorama view from Mt Ngauruhoe in Tongariro National Park.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing in Tongariro National Park is one of New Zealand's most spectacular tramping tracks, and is considered the most popular one-day tramp in New Zealand. The Tongariro National Park is a World Heritage site which has the distinction of dual status, as it has been acknowledged for both its natural and cultural significance.

The crossing passes over the volcanic terrain of the multi-cratered active volcano Mt Tongariro, passing the eastern base of Mt Ngauruhoe which can optionally be climbed as a side trip.

The 19.4 km (12.0 mi) walk is renowned for its barren yet beautiful "moon like" volcanic landscape, unusual geological features, visible volcanic activity and views of the surrounding countryside below.

Walk details

The crossing takes about seven hours of steady walking and requires a reasonable level of fitness. Trampers should carry a day bag with water, food and a waterproof jacket. The track begins at the western end by Mangatepopo Hut with a gentle 40 minute valley walk to the foot of the steep Tongariro saddle. This is a steep 45-minute ascent and the most difficult part of the track. Further, smaller descents and ascents into and back out of two different craters, passing the Emerald Lakes and along the edge of the Blue Lake. Ketetahi Hut gives a good view of the Plateau to the north on a clear day. The last two hours of the walk involve a long descent down the northern flank of the volcano, passing the Ketetahi Hot Springs.

The walk starts to the west of the mountain and the track forms a reverse L shape when looked at on a map, heading east for the first third and then turning north. As the walk starts and ends on different sides of the mountain, trampers are unable to drive themselves to and from the walk. (Returning to the starting point would mean retracing the entire route – a further 7–8 hours of walking.) A number of bus and coach companies offer transport services catering to the walk. These companies collect trampers from hotels and hostels in the surrounding towns and drop them at the starting point in the early morning. The same vehicles then meet the walkers in the late afternoon at the finishing point to transport them back to their accommodation. Both the starting and finishing locations are a 30 minute drive from the nearest towns so vehicle transport is required.

Running the crossing

Fit, experienced and equipped fell/mountain runners can complete the crossing in around 2 hours. Callam Harland, owner of the nearby Discovery Lodge, and international mountain athlete, has completed the crossing in 1 h 25 minutes. This inspiring challenge should not be attempted unless experienced and familiar with mountain running. As for walking water, nutrition, mapping and extra clothing should be taken; the summit can be cold and windy.

Water supplies

There are no guaranteed fresh water supplies on the walk. Trampers need to bring sufficient fresh water for their own drinking needs. Tank drinking water, which is rainwater, is usually available at the Ketetahi Hut on the final downwards stretch of the walk but this cannot be always guaranteed. The Department of Conservation advises this water should be treated. There are various pool and springs in the area but the water is often scalding hot and tainted with minerals and dissolved metals from the volcanic activity. Most natural water in the area is not drinkable.

Mount Ngauruhoe side trip

Mt Ngauruhoe can be climbed as a side trip from the main crossing, however this is not recommended for any but fit and experienced climbers. The ascent takes from 45 minutes to 2 hours depending on fitness and the weight of gear carried. The descent takes from 30 mts to 1½ hours. This may extend the entire trip to an 11–12 hour tramp. The problem for walkers is that the services that provide transport to and from the walk usually drop trampers at the start of the walk at around 8am and pick them up between 4 pm and 5 pm – an eight-to nine-hour time frame. By climbing Mt Ngauruhoe and extending the walk time to 11 to 12 hours, walkers run the risk of missing their transport at the end of the walk.

An option for trampers wishing to take this side trip is to stay in either the Mangatepopo or Ketetahi huts for the night, extending their tramp to two days. A hut pass from the Department of Conservation is required for this, plus sleeping gear and food.

In summer the flanks of Mt Ngauruhoe are mostly exposed, loose tephra, pilli and ash which is very difficult to walk on and requires a considerable energy expenditure compared to walking on solid material. For this reason it is less effort to climb in winter when the snow consolidates the tephra. Ice axes and crampons are needed. The snow can turn to ice after rain or partial melting creating dangerous conditions for the unskilled. In these circumstances climbers should be roped. The Tongariro side trip is tiring but not technically demanding unless the snow has turned to ice. From the top of Tongariro Saddle to the crater of Mt Ngauruhoe takes 90 minutes for a fit person carrying a pack.

Alpine exposure and 2007 name change

Until 2007 the crossing was called the "Tongariro Crossing", but this was changed to the "Tongariro Alpine Crossing" to better reflect the terrain. Almost the entire length of the crossing is in volcanic terrain with no vegetation and fully exposed to weather – at considerable altitude. As the crossing is both famous and easily accessible, it is walked by large numbers of tourists and casual walkers each year. The Department of Conservation is concerned about trampers being unprepared for the conditions they may encounter and introduced the name change to warn the many poorly equipped visitors of potential hazards. Key hazards are the high wind chill factor, the rapid change in weather and very poor visibility in the sudden storms with blinding snow and cloud. In 2006, two people of an estimated 65,000 walkers died on the track. Although the route is marked with poles, it is quite common on poor weather for visibility to be severely reduced. Poles may be snow covered or destroyed by wind gusts in winter.

Geological/volcanic features

The entire length of the walk (except for the final descent through native forest) is through raw volcanic terrain. The three volcanoes in the area are all highly active and the terrain reflects this. Solidified lava flows, loose tephra, and solidified volcanic lava bombs abound. Large amounts of minerals are brought to the surface and are highly visible in the colours of rocks and ridges. Active steam vents called fumaroles abound on several sections of the walk, constantly emitting steam and sulphur dioxide gas into the air and depositing yellow sulphur specks around their edges. The famous lakes and pools on the walk are deeply coloured by the volcanic minerals dissolved in them. Some areas feature large springs emitting near-boiling water and torrents of steam. The terrain underfoot for most of the walk is either sharp edged new volcanic rock or loose and shifting tephra, mainly ash and La pilli. In some crater areas it is finer ash that has become moist and compacted.

See also

• New Zealand tramping tracks
• Tongariro Northern Circuit

External links

• Department of Conservation - Tongariro Alpine Crossing information
• Tongariro Alpine Crossing, gear to be taken and local accommodation
• Tongariro Alpine Crossing and transport information
• Tongariro Crossing Backpackers