Trussardi

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Trussardi
Type Private
Industry Fashion
Founded 1911
Founders Dante Trussardi
Key people Tomaso Trussardi (CEO), Gaia Trussardi (Creative Director), and Maria Luisa Trussardi (President)
Website www.trussardi.com

Trussardi is an Italian fashion house, founded in 1911. It began as a leather glove making facility, and expanded its line to additional leather goods in the 1970s after Nicola Trussardi took over the line from his uncle. In the 1980s the company launched a ready-to-wear line, in addition to other products like fragrances and the first luxury jeans line. By the 1990s Trussardi had become an international brand, with its largest markets located in Italy and Japan. The CEO of the company is Tomaso Trussardi, while Maria Luisa Trussardi is President of the Trussardi Group.

History[edit]

1911-1970[edit]

Early 1900s bill for Trussardi's original establishment

Trussardi was founded in 1911 by Dante Trussardi, as a leather glove maker. In addition to domestic sales, Trussardi supplied leather gloves to the Axis Italian army during the World War II until their surrender to the Allied Forces. After his death, Dante's nephew took over the business.[1]

1970s[edit]

In 1970 Nicola Trussardi took over from his grandfather Dante, after he passed away in a hunting accident. His wife Marialuisa joined the company alongside him, becoming the firm's creative director. During the 1970s the fashion trends began to change, forcing Nicola to change the direction of the company. Instead of only making gloves, he began to expand into other leather goods and accessories, and eventually into clothing apparel outside the scope of only leather. The initial line expansion included goods like wallets, suitcases, belts and shoes. They were emblazoned with the new company signature Nicola developed early in his tenure: the greyhound. When Nicola's father passed away, he took full control of the company.[1]

1980s[edit]

Sheet of multi-colored Trussardi "greyhound" logos

The company released its first fragrance in 1980, named "Trussardi", followed in 1983 by "Trussardi Uomo".[2] In the 1980s, now full head of the company, Nicola launched the first ready-to-wear line for Trussardi in 1983,[3] The company's first women's line was launched in 1983, and the first men's line was launched in 1984. Trussardi Jeans was founded in 1986, and became the first designer jeans line.[4]

The company later added fragrance, sport and home lines. By 1985 the brand had 120 stores located globally. The company also developed interior designs for private aircraft and helicopters. Around this time they entered the US market, with sections in department stores in addition to boutiques, and initial franchise locations in Beverly Hills, Atlanta, Miami, and San Francisco. The first Bloomingdales location opened in 1985, with opera singer Luciano Pavarotti in attendance for the grand opening. In Milan, the company held their ready-to-wear runway shows in offbeat locations, including the Piazza Duomo, La Scala, or the Milan railway station. In 1989 the company launched its first eyewear line. In 1993, the company opened a research and development center in Brindisi, which initially focused on raw material research, new fabrics, and changing packaging to be more environmentally friendly.[1][5][6][7][8]

1990s[edit]

The company also developed brand-name stores with two lines. The first were Trussardi stores that sold Trussardi fashion goods. The second were called T-Stores, which sold the company's lifestyle line. Goods found at a T-Store can include jeans, sports lines, bicycles, tableware, and confections. The first three stores opened in 1995 in Bangkok, Hong Kong, and Seoul. In 1996, Trussardi released the first official T-Store line of casual clothing, focusing especially on basics. The three initial lines for the collection were Trussardi Sport, Jeans, and T-store, each produced by the company Sosab--owned by Nicola Trussardi and operating out of Modena, Italy. The company's first New York City store opened in 1996 as well. That year the turnover for the company, including licenses, was $530 million.[1][5] They also opened a new store in Milan within Nicola Trussardi's redeveloped Marino Alla Scala across from the La Scala opera hall. The complex also houses a bar, restaurant, and store.[9][10]

The Trussardi family

By this time the company had seven fragrances, with about one third of fragrance sales being done in Europe and two-thirds abroad.[3] In 1998 Trussardi launched a new eyewear line, with both perscription and sun glasses, in addition to a line of time pieces.[11] In 1992 Trussardi licensed its Trussardi Levriero and Trussardi Action lines to the Japanese company C. Itoh for about $1.4 billion over five years. At the time, Japan accounted for about 70% of the company's total exports out of Italy, and there were about 200 Trussardi Levriero stores in the country.[12] Following its partnership with C. Itoh, Nicola Trussardi founded Teijin Ltd, intending it to be Trussardi's long-term partner in the country. In 2003 Trussardi took on Mitsui as its partner in Japan, ending its relationship with Teijin.[13]

2000s[edit]

Francesco Trussardi, Nicola's son, became chairman of the brand after his father's death in 1999. His sister Beatrice also took a leadership position with the company.[14] After her brother's death in 2003, Beatrice became president and CEO of the fashion house, staying president until Maria Luisa Trussardi took over the position.[15] In 2006 the brand hired Eric Wright, who had previously designed for Fendi, to be the house's head designer.[16] In 2008 Trussardi launched the super high-end line of brand Trussardi dal 1911, designed by Milan Vukmirovic.[15] In 2011 Umit Benan Sahin became the label's creative director, and in 2013 Sahin was replaced by Gaia Trussardi. Prior to becoming creative director for the mainline collections, Gaia had already served as the creative director for Tru Trussardi and Trussardi Jeans.[17] The current head and CEO of the company is Tomaso Trussardi.[18] For the 40th anniversary of their logo, Yuko Shimizu produced an animated short film entitled "Sky Watcher".[19]

Modern collections[edit]

Trussardi greyhound symbol

Current collections for the fashion house are Trussardi, Tru Trussardi, and Trussardi Jeans. Each of these lines has their own stand-alone stores and covers different aspects of the house's customer base: traditional, a younger crowd, and casual.[20]

Trussardi[edit]

Trussardi is the mainline collection of the fashion house, which releases the group's ready-to-wear line and couture collections. It designs clothing for both men and women. The 2014 collection was partially inspired by the films of Jean-Luc Godard and Francois Truffaut. Nicole Phelps wrote of the Trussardi line that, "The Trussardi family business is one of Italy's ultimate heritage houses, with a century-plus history of leather goods artisanship."[21]

Tru Trussardi[edit]

Tru Trussardi is the house's more casual collection, with its own stand alone stores.[22] Tru Trussardi releases clothing and apparel.[23][24]

Trussardi Jeans[edit]

Trussardi Jeans is the denim line for the fashion house, founded in 1986. Trussardi Jeans was the first luxury jeans line to be developed in Europe. The line produces casual wear for both men and women.[25][26]

Trussardi Junior[edit]

Trussardi Junior is the fashion house's children's clothing line, first released in 1983 alongside the company's first ready-to-wear collections.[27] There are two collections for Trussardi Junior, the main collection and the top collection. In 2013 Trussardi licensed the creation of the line to Italian fashion house Pinco Pallino through 2018.[28]

Home decor[edit]

For home décor Trussardi also produced MY Design, with the MY standing for industrial designer Michael Young. His collection was released in 2011, and was inspired by Nicola's work on the interior of aircrafts in the 1980s.[29][30] Trussardi Casa, the collection's current furniture line, was released in 2014 at the Milan Furniture Fair.[31]

Partnerships[edit]

Ristorante Trussardi alla Scala

The brand also continues to provide an eyewear line for both protective and prescription lenses, as well as a perfume line. Its line of perfumes has expanded to 28 varieties.[32] In the 2013-14 season, Trussardi also began designing the off-field uniforms for Juventus Football Club.[33] In 2014, Trussardi formed a partnership with Morellato for the Trussardi Orologi line of Swiss made timepieces.[34]

Ristorante Trussardi Alla Scala[edit]

Founded in 2006, Ristorante Trussardi Alla Scala is one of only three restaurants in Milan to have received two Michelin stars. The first was received in 2008 and the next in 2009, given to executive chef Andrea Berton.[35][36] Attached is the Cafè Trussardi, which houses an open courtyard overlooking the square, and its glass walls also face La Scala and the other buildings on the promenade.[37]

Advertising[edit]

Nicola Trussardi's children and other family members are frequently used in the company's print and television advertising campaigns.[1] This has included Gaia Trussardi, directed in a commercial for the perfume My Name by Gabriele Salvatores, and Tomaso Trussardi's Wim Wenders' directed commercial for the scent My Land.[38][39] In 2014 photographer William Wegman produced a print campaign for Trussardi, featuring photographs of the company's trademark greyhounds adorned with Trussardi clothing and accessories.[40]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e Samantha Conti (April 15, 1999). "NICOLA TRUSSARDI DEAD AT 56". WWD. Retrieved May 28, 2014. 
  2. ^ N. Groom (1997). New Perfume Handbook. Springer. p. 332. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  3. ^ a b Amy B. Barone (June 7, 1996). "Revamped Trussardi returns to basics.(Eye on Fragrance)". WWD. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  4. ^ "Nicola Trussardi". The Herald. April 27, 1999. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  5. ^ a b Samantha Conti (January 30, 1996). "Trussardi makes bid to redefine image with new, sportier lines. (Nicola Trussardi)(Italia '96)". WWD. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  6. ^ "Designs on US expansion inspire Nicola Trussardi". WWD. September 26, 1985. Retrieved May 28, 2014. 
  7. ^ "Bloomingdale's opens boutique for Trussardi". WWD. September 24, 1985. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  8. ^ "Trussardi plunging into the U.S. market. (leather goods manufacturer introduces sunglasses line)". WWD. May 10, 1991. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  9. ^ Samantha Conti (September 25, 1996). "Trussardi builds his dream palazzo". WWD. Retrieved May 28, 2014. 
  10. ^ Dominique Muret (January 30, 2014). "Tomaso Trussardi (AD di Trussardi): “Nel 2014 lanciamo la linea Casa e gli orologi”". Fashion Magazine. Retrieved July 7, 2014. 
  11. ^ "Trussardi (fashion designer Nicola Trussardi)". WWD. February 24, 1998. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  12. ^ Sara Gay Forden (September 3, 1992). "Trussardi inks pact for Japan licensing. (Trussardi S.p.A., C. Itoh and Company Ltd.)". Daily News Record. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  13. ^ "In Brief.(Brief Article)". WWD. January 9, 2003. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  14. ^ "Foreign News: Fashion icon tragedy". Daily Post (Liverpool, England). January 27, 2003. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  15. ^ a b Courtney Colavita (January 21, 2008). "TRUSSARDI'S TURNING POINT". Daily News Record. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  16. ^ Suzy Menkes (January 20, 2006). "Gucci heads for highlands while Anglomania reigns". International Herald Tribune. Retrieved May 27, 2014. 
  17. ^ Ella Alexander (February 28, 2013). "Trussardi New Creative Director Named". British Vogue. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  18. ^ Anna Higgie (March 6, 2014). "Interview with Tomaso Trussardi - Illustration by Anna Higgie". Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  19. ^ http://www.wwd.com/media-news/fashion-memopad/off-to-the-races-7296765
  20. ^ http://www.2020mag.com/whats-new/26884/
  21. ^ "Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear: Trussardi". Nicole Phelps. February 23, 2014. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  22. ^ Laura Tortora (February 14, 2014). "Tru Trussardi apre da Printemps Haussmann" (in Italian). Vogue Italia. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  23. ^ "Tru Trussardi metal, acetate and leather sunglasses". Financial Times. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  24. ^ "Tru Trussardi". Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  25. ^ Giuliana Garzone and Cornelia Ilie (2007). The Use of English in Institutional and Business Settings: An Intercultural Perspective. Peter Lang. p. 37. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  26. ^ Скляренко В. М., Вологжина Н. И., Исаенко О., Колозинская И. А. (2013). 100 знаменитых мира моды (in Russian). Directmedia. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  27. ^ "Trussardi, SPA". Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  28. ^ Elena Passeri (May 4, 2013). "Trussardi Junior affidato a Pinco Pallino". Fashion Magazine. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  29. ^ http://www.focusonstyle.com/style/home-style-trussardi-design-relaunches-at-the-salone-del-mobile-in-milan/
  30. ^ http://www.wmagazine.com/culture/art-and-design/2011/05/michael-young-trussardi-furnishings/
  31. ^ "Trussardi Home / 125". Domus Web. April 16, 2014. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 
  32. ^ http://www.fragrantica.com/designers/Trussardi.html
  33. ^ http://www.wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/trussardi-teams-with-juventus-football-club-6937913
  34. ^ http://www.moda24.ilsole24ore.com/art/industria-finanza/2014-07-01/orologi-trussardi-sceglie-morellato-110808.php?uuid=ABchnaWB
  35. ^ http://www.wmagazine.com/culture/art-and-design/2011/05/michael-young-trussardi-furnishings/
  36. ^ http://books.google.ca/books?id=qh4oqASLN7YC&pg=PT28&dq=Trussardi+Caf%C3%A8+Trussardi&hl=en&sa=X&ei=8-iFU-WxBqap8QH_p4HgAw&ved=0CC0Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=Trussardi%20Caf%C3%A8%20Trussardi&f=false
  37. ^ http://www.timeout.com/milan/restaurants-cafes/venue/1%3A7393/trussardi-cafe
  38. ^ http://www.vogue.it/beauty/notizie-bellezza/2013/10/video-backstage-profumo-trussardi-my-name-gabriele-salvatores
  39. ^ http://d.repubblica.it/argomenti/2012/10/09/video/trussardi_profumo_video_backstage-1301545/1/
  40. ^ Laura Bradley (January 9, 2014). "The Trussardi Greyhounds". Another Magazine. Retrieved May 31, 2014. 

External links[edit]