Ueli Steck

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Ueli Steck
Ueli Steck.jpg
Ueli Steck in 2012
Personal information
Full name Ueli Steck
Main discipline Mountaineering
Other disciplines Carpentry
Born (1976-10-04) October 4, 1976 (age 37)
Langnau im Emmental, Switzerland
Nationality Swiss
Career
Starting age 17

Ueli Steck (born October 4, 1976 in Langnau im Emmental, Switzerland) is a Swiss rock climber and mountaineer. He is famous for his speed records on the North Face trilogy in the Alps.

Career[edit]

At the age of 17, Steck achieved the 9th difficulty rating (UIAA) in climbing. As an 18-year-old he climbed the north face of the Eiger, and the Bonatti Pillar in the Mont Blanc massif. In June 2004, he climbed the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau within 25 hours with Stephan Siegrist. Another success was the so-called "Khumbu-Express Expedition" in 2005, for which the climbing magazine Climb named him one of the three best alpinists in Europe.[citation needed] The project consisted of the first solo-climb of the north wall of Cholatse (6440 m) and the east wall of Taboche (6505 m).[1]

In 2007, whilst climbing up the direct line on the southern flank to the summit of Annapurna in the Himalayas, he was hit by a falling rock which smashed his helmet. He was knocked unconscious, slipped more than 200 feet, but survived with only bruises and a concussion. In May 2008, again climbing Annapurna, he broke off his ascent due to an avalanche threat, but the next week climbed to assist a Spanish climber Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, who had collapsed. Medical help was slow in coming and the Spanish climber died despite Steck's help.[2][3]

In 2008, Steck was the first recipient of the Eiger Award for his mountaineering achievements.[4]

He is also a skilled carpenter and lives in Ringgenberg in Interlaken.

Everest Incident[edit]

In April 2013, Steck and two other mountaineers, Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith, were involved in an altercation with local Sherpas while on the west face of Mount Everest which became an international media event.[5] Accounts are contradictory, however it appears that Steck's party were not aware of an agreement between Sherpas employed by guiding companies to have a "no climbing" period to set up permanent ropes, as Steck's party were climbing solo.[6][7][8][9]

Climbing achievements[edit]

Eiger north face, where Ueli Steck established his speed records and opened new hard routes
  • 1995 Eiger north face, Heckmair route (1800 m)
  • 1998 Mönch, Haston couloir, solo in 3.5 hours (1000 m)
  • 1999 Eiger northeast face (Lauper route), solo in 5 hours (1800 m)
  • 2000
    • Eiger north face, Yeti route, second ascent (7c/A0)
    • Mönch north face, Direttissima, first ascent (1000 m M5/Wi5)
  • 2001
    • Grandes Jorasses Walker Spur, winter ascent (1200 m)
    • Pumori west face, first ascent (1400 m M4/80 degree ice) with Ueli Buhler
    • Eiger North Face, first ascent via "The Young Spider" (1800 m M7/WI6; 7a/A2)[10]
  • 2002 Mount Dickey, Alaska, east face, first ascent ("Blood from the Stone" route, 1700 m M7 + AI6 5.9/A1)[11]
  • 2002/03 Two attempts at Jannu north face (7710 m) Nepal, along with Erhard Loretan
  • 2003
  • 2004 Trilogy Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (north faces) in 25 hours
  • 2005 (Khumbu-Express) First solo ascent of Taboche east face (6515 m) and Cholatse north face (6440 m)
  • 2006
  • 2007 Eiger north face, Heckmair route, speed record in 3:54 hours, solo[17]
  • 2008
    • Eiger north face, Heckmair route, speed record in 2:47:33 hours, solo[18][19]
    • Grandes Jorasses north face, Colton–McIntyre speed-record route in 2:21 hours, solo[20]
    • Tengkampoche north face (6500 m, Nepal) with Simon Anthamatten, first ascent in alpine style (no bolts, no fixed ropes, four days for the ascent and descent),[3][21] winner of the Piolet d'Or.[22]
    • Eiger north face, Paciencia, first free ascent (900 m 8a) with Stephan Siegrist. This route represents the hardest rock climbing route on Eiger north face.[13][14]
  • 2009
    • Matterhorn north face, Schmid route speed-record in 1:56 hours, solo[23][24]
    • Gasherbrum II, solo ascent[25]
    • Makalu, normal route[26]
  • 2011
  • 2012, Everest, via the South Col - southeast ridge (normal route) without supplemental oxygen[30]
  • 2013, Annapurna, solo ascent via the south face[31]

Awards[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Christine Kopp (1 June 2005). "Ueli Steck - absolute void". planetmountain.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  2. ^ Luke Bauer (23 May 2008). "Inaki Ochoa de Olza Dies on Annapurna". alpinist.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  3. ^ a b "Annapurna-Expedition 2008". uelisteck.ch. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  4. ^ a b "Another victor of the unwinnable". alpinist.com. 3 June 2008. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  5. ^ Tim Neville (2 May 2013). "Brawl On Everest: Ueli Steck’s Story". outsideonline.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  6. ^ "Ueli Steck Attacked on Everest". rockandice.com. 28 April 2013. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  7. ^ "Everest: Moro, Steck and Griffith attacked at 7200m". planetmountain.com. 29 April 2013. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  8. ^ Manoj Kumar Shrestha (28 April 2013). "Three foreigners thrashed at Everest base camp". thehimalayantimes.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  9. ^ "Everest 2013". simonemoro.com. 28 April 2013. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  10. ^ a b "Ueli Steck: first solo, repeat and winter ascent of The Young Spider on the North Face of the Eiger". planetmountain.com. 3 February 2006. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  11. ^ Sean Easton (1 December 2002). "Mt. Dickey". alpinist.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  12. ^ Stephan Siegrist (1 December 2003). "Eiger Nordwand, La Vida es Silbar". alpinist.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  13. ^ a b Peter Nelson (30 September 2008). "Paciencia: More Details on Eiger's Hardest". alpinist.com. Retrieved 14 June 2013. 
  14. ^ a b Dougald MacDonald. "Swiss Redpoint Eiger’s Hardest Free Climb". climbing.com. Retrieved 14 June 2013. 
  15. ^ Ueli Steck (1 July 2006). "Bernese Oberland". alpinist.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  16. ^ First approach of Gasherbrum from the North, see Gasherbrum II at 8000ers.com
  17. ^ Lindsay Griffin (6 March 2007). "Steck shatters Eiger record". alpinist.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  18. ^ "Ueli Steck speed record on Eiger Heckmair route". planetmountain.com. 14 February 2008. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  19. ^ Erik Lambert (14 February 2008). "Steck cuts 67 minutes off Eiger record". alpinist.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  20. ^ "Ueli Steck speed solo climb on Grandes Jorasses Colton Macintyre". planetmountain.com. 7 January 2009. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  21. ^ "Tengkangpoche North Face first ascent by Steck and Anthamatten". planetmountain.com. 1 May 2008. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  22. ^ a b "The 2009 winners". pioletsdor.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  23. ^ "Ueli Steck interview after Matterhorn solo in less than 2 hours". planetmountain.com. 23 January 2009. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  24. ^ Dougald MacDonald. "Steck Solos Matterhorn North Face in 1:56". climbing.com. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  25. ^ "Ueli Steck ascends Gasherbrum II". planetmountain.com. 15 July 2009. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  26. ^ "Ueli Steck corona el Makalu por la ruta normal" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 2 October 2009. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  27. ^ "Swiss Machine Tops Shishapangma in 10.5 Hours". alpinist.com. 21 April 2011. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  28. ^ "Ueli Steck top speed solo on Shisha Pangma". planetmountain.com. 18 April 2011. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  29. ^ "Cho Oyu, segundo ochomil de la temporada para Ueli Steck" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 9 May 2011. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  30. ^ "Ueli Steck and Everest: the ascent of a great alpinist". planetmountain.com. 4 June 2012. Retrieved 12 June 2013. 
  31. ^ "Ueli Steck summits Annapurna, alone up South Face". planetmountain.com. 10 October 2013. Retrieved 10 October 2013. 
  32. ^ "Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners". planetmountain.com. 2 May 2009. Retrieved 13 June 2013. 
  33. ^ "Ueli Steck, primer premio Karl Unterkircher" (in Spanish). desnivel.com. 27 July 2010. Retrieved 13 June 2013. 
  34. ^ "Karl Unterkircher Award a Ueli Steck" (in Italian). planetmountain.com. 13 August 2010. Retrieved 13 June 2013. 
  35. ^ "Ueli Steck and Raphael Slawinsky & Ian Welsted win the Piolets d'Or 2014". planetmountain.com. 29 March 2014. Retrieved 1 April 2014. 

Further reading[edit]

  • Steck, Ueli; Baumann-von Arx, Gabriella (2008). Solo: Der Alleingänger (in German). Piper Verlag GmbH. ISBN 978-3492403412. 
  • Steck, Ueli (2010). Speed (in German). Piper Verlag GmbH. ISBN 978-3492403788. 
  • Steck, Ueli (2012). 8000+: Aufbruch in die Todeszone (in German). Malik Verlag. ISBN 978-3890294070. 

External links[edit]