Women's Wear Daily

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Women's Wear Daily
Cover
Type Daily newspaper
Format tabloid
Owner(s) Fairchild Fashion Media
Publisher Paul Jowdy
Editor-in-chief Edward Nardoza
Founded May 21, 1910
Circulation 59,189[1]
ISSN 0043-7581
Official website wwd.com

Women's Wear Daily (WWD) is a fashion-industry trade journal sometimes called "the bible of fashion."[2][3] WWD delivers information and intelligence on changing trends and breaking news in the fashion, beauty and retail industries with a readership composed largely of retailers, designers, manufacturers, marketers, financiers, media executives, advertising agencies, socialites and trend makers.[4] It is the flagship journal of Fairchild Publications, Inc.[5]

History[edit]

The journal was founded by Edmund Fairchild on July 13, 1910, as an outgrowth of the menswear journal Daily News Record.[6] The publication quickly acquired a firm standing in the New York clothing industry, due to the influence of its first advertisers, including the Philadelphia and New York Wanamaker's, and an esteemed group of fashion journalists who included Edith Rosenbaum Russell, who served as Women's Wear Daily's first Paris correspondent.[7] Apart from her work for the paper, Rosenbaum was a leading freelance fashion buyer, a pioneering celebrity stylist and a press attaché for the powerful Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne.

Though WWD's lesser reporters were sometimes assigned to the last row of couture shows—a sign of the newspaper's highly specialized appeal within the American garment trade—the paper realized greater popular appeal by the late 1950s.[3] John Fairchild, who became the European bureau chief of Fairchild Publications in 1955 and the publisher of WWD in 1960, improved WWD's standing by focusing on the human side of fashion.[3] He turned his newspaper's attention to the social scene of fashion designers and their clients, and helped manufacture a "cult of celebrity" around designers.[3] Fairchild also played hardball to help his circulation. After two couturiers forbade press coverage until one month after buyers had seen their clothes, Fairchild published photos and sketches anyway.[8] He even sent reporters to fashion houses disguised as messengers, or had them observe designers' new styles from windows of buildings opposite fashion houses.[8] "I have learned in fashion to be a little savage," he wrote in his memoir.[8] John Fairchild was publisher of the magazine from 1960 to 1996.[3]

Under Fairchild, the company's feuds were also legendary.[3][5] When a designer's statements or work offended Fairchild, he would retaliate, sometimes banning any reference to them in his newspaper for years at a stretch.[5] The newspaper famously sparred with Hubert de Givenchy,[5][9] Cristóbal Balenciaga,[9] John Weitz,[5][9] Azzedine Alaia,[9] Perry Ellis,[9] Yves Saint Laurent,[3] Giorgio Armani,[3][5][9] Bill Blass,[5][9] Geoffrey Beene (four times- the first over Lynda Bird Johnson's White House wedding dress design,[10] which Geoffrey promised to keep secret until the wedding day, and later over the size of an ad in another of Fairchild's publications, Beene's allowing a rival publication to photograph his home, and a WWD reporter Geoffrey did not like),[3][9] James Galanos,[9] Mollie Parnis,[9] Oscar de la Renta,[9] and Norman Norell (who was demoted from "Fashion Great" to "Old Master" in the journal's pages),[3] among others. In response, some designers forbade their representatives from speaking to WWD reporters or disinvited WWD reporters from their fashion shows.[9] In general, though, those excluded "kept their mouths shut and [took] it on the chin."[11] When designer Pauline Trigère, who had been excluded from the paper for three years, took out a full-page advertisement protesting the ban in the fashion section of a 1988 New York Times Magazine, it was believed to be the first widely distributed counterattack on Fairchild's policy.[5]

In 1999, Fairchild Publications was sold by the Walt Disney Company to Advance Publications, the parent company of Condé Nast Publications.[12] Now Fairchild Publications is a unit of Condé Nast,[13] though WWD is technically operated separately from Condé Nast's consumer publications such as Vogue and Glamour.[14]

100th anniversary[edit]

In November 2010 WWD celebrated its 100th anniversary at the Cipriani in New York, with some of the fashion industry's leading experts including designers Alber Elbaz, Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors.[15]

Past and current staff[edit]

WWD's publisher is Ralph Erardy, Sr., and its editor-in-chief is Edward Nardoza.[13]

Illustrators: Kenneth Paul Block mid-1950s to 1992, Catherine Clayton Purnell 1969-1989 and American artist/fashion illustrator Joel Resnicoff.

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Total Circ for US Newspapers". Alliance for Audited Media. March 31, 2013. Retrieved June 16, 2013. 
  2. ^ Miller, Lia. "Women's Wear Daily Setting Its Sights on the Luxury Market." The New York Times. (March 14, 2005).
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h i j Horyn, Cathy. "Breaking Fashion News With a Provocative Edge". The New York Times. (August 20, 1999).
  4. ^ http://www.wwd.com/about-us
  5. ^ a b c d e f g h Rothenberg, Randall. "From Pauline Trigere, a Dressing Down". The New York Times. (August 17, 1988).
  6. ^ Trager, James. The New York Chronology: A Compendium of Events, People, and Anecdotes from the Dutch to the Present. HarperCollins (2003), p325. ISBN 0-06-074062-0.
  7. ^ Women's Wear Daily, August 22, 1911.
  8. ^ a b c Fairchild, John. The Fashionable Savages. Doubleday (1965). (Cited in Gross, Michael. "Women's Wear Daily and Feuds in Fashion". The New York Times. (May 8, 1987).)
  9. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l Gross, Michael. "Women's Wear Daily and Feuds in Fashion". The New York Times. (May 8, 1987).
  10. ^ Geoffrey Beene Biography (Fashion Designer) — Infoplease.com
  11. ^ Former WWD publisher James Brady. Quoted in Rothenberg, Randall. "From Pauline Trigere, a Dressing Down". The New York Times. (August 17, 1988).
  12. ^ Barringer, Felicity. "Fashion Magazine Industry Consolidates with a Big Deal". The New York Times. (August 25, 1999).
  13. ^ a b Hoover's In-Depth Company Records. "Fairchild Publications, Inc." March 21, 2007.
  14. ^ MacIntosh, Jeane. "Will WWD Play It Straight for SI?". New York Post. (Feb. 7, 2000).
  15. ^ WWD celebrate 100 years www.rescu.com.au

Further reading[edit]

  • Isadore Barmash, Edward Gold, Marvin Klapper, Sandy Parker, Sidney Rutberg, Mort Sheinman, and Stanley Siegelman (2005). Fashion, Retailing and a Bygone Era: Inside Women's Wear Daily—A Look Back. Baltimore, MD: Beard Books. ISBN 1-58798-269-2. 

External links[edit]