Thalassery cuisine

Thalassery Biriyani

Thalassery Biriyani
Alternative names	Malabar biriyani or Kozhikode biriyani
Course	Main course
Place of origin	Indian subcontinent
Region or state	Kerala
Created by	Malabar variant, Mughal inception
Main ingredients	Kaima Rice, Chicken, Spices
Food energy (per serving)	~ 600 K.Calories  kcal
Other information	Accompaniments Raita, Grated Coconut-Mint Chutney, Pickle
Media: Thalassery Biriyani

Thalassery Biriyani ( IPA: [t̪laʃeɾi biɾijɑːɳi] ) is a rice-based dish blended with spices and chicken. Variations upon the dish may use mutton, fish, eggs or vegetables. Thalassery biriyani is the only biriyani recipe in Kerala cuisine, so it could also be called Kerala biriyani.

The main difference of Thalassery biriyani with respect to others is that it uses only Khaima/Jeerakasala rice (a short-grain, thin variant of rice), it is also known prominently as biriyani rice in Kerala, the dish do not use basmati. Biriyani is an exotic dish of Mughal origin, but this variant is an indigenous recipe of Malabar. The dish is a symbol of cultural amalgamation of Mughal and Malabari cuisines. The Mughals have bought the cuisine of biryani from Samarkand, later on different variations of biriyani developed in different parts of India. The Thalassery biriyani may have came to the region due to the influence of the Muslim rulers of Mysore and Arkot.

Thalassery biriyani is a cultural embodiment and a reminiscent of the foreign influence in Malabar, it is a reminder about the Mughal-Arab cultural influence in the North Kerala due to the trade and commerce that lasted for many centuries; in olden times before 1900's and the Middle East immigration of locals in 1970s and later. Thalassery sea port (in olden times) was an export trade center for spices and it is natural that a convergence of European Arab Malabar culture took place there. Thalassery biriyani is synonymous to Malabar biriyani or Kozhikode biriyani.

Etymology

Thalassery is a town in coastal Malabar region in North Kerala, it is from the town's name, the name of this variant of biryani originates. The name "biryani" is derived from the Persian word biryān (n) (بریان) which means "fried" or "roasted". Biryani was believed to have been invented in the kitchen of Mughal Emperors. There are many variations in the preparation of biryani, Thalassery biryani is one among them. It is very popular dish in Malabar cuisine. The dish is also known as Malabar biryani in some places as the place of origin is within the Malabar region, however the dish is popular by the name Thalassery biryani.

In local dialect Malayalam there is a small variation in pronunciation. It is called biri-yaa-ni instead of bir-yani so it is called Thalassery Biriyani, in the region.

Thalassery biriyani with Raita

Translations: Arabic: برياني تلشیری, Bengali: থালস্সের্য বিরিয়ানি, Hindi: त लश्शेरि बिरयानी, Malayalam: തലശ്ശേരി ബിരിയാണി, Tamil: தலச்சேரி பிரியாணி

History and Cultural Influences

The dish is an ample insignia showcasing the Islamic cultural influence in the region. The dish is a traditional Mappila cuisine or prominently known as Malabar cuisine. There are rarely any ancient written records, except for a few treatise by historians citing the origin of Mappila's(Malabar Muslims'). The mythology about the conversion of the last Chera Emperor (Cheraman Perumal)-Rama Varma Kulasekhara Perumal, to Islam from Mahodayapuram (Kodungallur) by Malik Deenar and subsequent conversion of Perumal's sister and nephew residing in Dharmadam(north of Thalassery) is generally believed to be the origin of Islam in North Malabar. Perumal is believed to have left Kerala from an erstwhile feudal province in the region named Poyanad( i.e. Poya Nadu) which lies in between Thalassery and Kannur taluks governed by local chieftains named Randuthara Achanmar before 1947. Perumal's nephew Mahabali, is believed to be the first Ali Raja of Arakkal kingdom (The Sultanate of Lakshadweep and Cannanore), the sole Muslim kingdom of Kerala. The Arakkal Kingdom controlled the northern region of Thalassery named Dharmadam until the formation of Kerala state in 1st November 1956 (State Reorganisation Act 1956, formed after the India's independence from British in 1947). This had a significant influence in the cultural evolution and diversity of Thalassery. Thalassery was a sea port and a trade center in the ancient period as geographically it was in the convergence of many provinces and also as an end point of 'Perya pass' coming from the hilly areas of Coorg through Wayanad. There Arab traders, the Arkot rulers and the invasion of Sultanate of Mysore had immense significance in shaping the culture of Malabar in addition to the prevalent existing culture.

The Ramzan month is a major period where the Malabar dishes are made in abundant varieties. Thalassery biriyani is an iconic insignia in showcasing the cultural evolution as well as the cultural richness of Malabar i.e. the localities of Malabar are famed all over for the warm reception of guests with elaborate dishes and generous weddings.

The Muslim community of Malabar differs culturally within, the life style of the trader communities settled near the coastal towns such as Kozhikode, Thalassery, Koylandi, Kannur differ with the life style of the farmer communities in the inland and in the hilly areas; so the difference in culture is obvious. So a generalized perception about Malabar cuisines being same in all regions of Malabar is not apt, but later on in modern era there had been gradual cultural amalgamation resulting in little difference.

The Mughlai cuisine had a significant influence in shaping the Malabar recipe. Mughali recipes has reach, all over India. A few among them being Biriyani, Pulao, Thandoor, Nan, Roti, Paratha, Kulcha, Kurma, Kabab, e.t.c. The recipe consisted of ingredients like rice, maida, wheat and there were extensive usage of ghee and oils for preparation; there were also recipes for sweet delicacies made out of jaggery or sugar. Most of these dishes are non-vegetarian, chicken, mutton, lamb, beef are used but swine flesh (pork) is not consumed due to religious regulations. The tastes of the dish range from mild to extreme spicy, this is supplemented by distinct aromas of the dishes.

Malabar Cuisines

The two of the non-vegetarian cuisine class of Kerala, 'Malabar cuisine' from North Kerala and 'Syrian Christian cuisine' from South has clear distinction, the former having Mughalai-Arab influence and the latter a mix of Kerala traditional (dishes were rich in coconut) and the Syrian (Dutch as well as Portuguese) as well as the British cuisines. The Malabar cuisine is rich in huge varieties of dishes, which is highly different from the mid and south Kerala dishes. Most of the cuisines are fried. Some of the Malabar cuisines are Ari Pattiri, Chatti Pattiri, Coin porottas, Kallummakaya fry, Arikkadukka and biriyanis' of Chicken, Mutton, Prawn, Fish, Egg and Sweeteners like Aleesa, Kadalpparippu Ada, Kozhikode halva, Kayanirachatu, Unnakkaya, Muttamaala, Muttayappam e.t.c

"There is no love sincerer than the love of food." – George Bernard Shaw in the drama Man and Superman(1903)

The traditional Kerala recipes are prepared in festivals and mainly the day to day dishes are the Kerala cuisines, i.e. for breakfast Puttu, Noolputtu(Idiyappam), idli e.t.c. for lunch and dinner rice and fish curry or Sambar (dish) is a general choice. Biriyani are mostly occasional recipes. The malabar dishes that are used as break fast are Pattiri and the sweetners are mostly used as snacks in the evening.

The Mappila Food Culture

The food culture (i.e. the way in which the dishes are prepared, the choice of ingredients and the way in which these dishes are served) is unique for each communities in Kerala. In Malabar region especially in Thalassery, a fiesta is an indispensable part of any celebration. The exceptional warm reception of guests with a fiesta, by the people of this region is well famed all over.

The Mappila non-vegetarian dishes are required to be "Halal" compliant, such foods are supposed to be consumed by Muslims as a religious directive.

"Zakāt" is another tradition of Mappilas'. It is an Islamic religious obligation where in sharing of a prosperity is considered sacred. The richness in food being an important opulence, the Malabar Muslims have developed a habit of sharing food to friends, relatives and neighbors irrespective of the religion especially during the Holy Month of Ramzan either by going to their home or by conducting an evening party called as Iftar Reception. The sharing of food is reciprocated by these neighbors and friends during festivals such as Christmas, Vishu and Onam. This food sharing culture has become a factor of cultural bonding in Kerala, where in the people have a huge opportunity to interact with each other and to understand each other's culture.

Pattiri is a famous dish of Malabar Mappilas, it is a paper thin circular dish made from parboiled rice. Arippathiri or Orotti is a thicker version of Pathiri made using plaintain leaves. Biriyani and Neychoru (Ghee rice) is an essential ingredient of Mappila dining table during celebrations and feast. There are also innumerable sweeteners, which are made of ghee, sugar, jggery meat and egg. A few among them are Ila Ada, Vazhaka Ada, Kozhi Ada, Polla, Tharippolla, Kilsa, Mutta Marrichathu, Unnakkaya, Muttamala e.t.c. One of the important note should be that some of these dishes have a very short shelf life, they should be consumed soon after cooking. This is because, as the dish becomes colder the taste gets adversely affected.

Differences from other biriyani

The specialty of Thalassery biriyani is that it uses a unique fragrant small-grained thin rice variety named Kaima or [[{{{1}}}]]. The Kaima rice ml:Kaima or other similar fragrant small sized thin rice variants like Jeera rice/ Jeerakasemba or small Bangladeshi biryani rice could also be used. Unlike other variants, the rice is white in colour, short (small) grains, thin (not plum) and is very fragrant (only few variants of rice like Basamati, Kaima, Jeerakasala have fragrance).

Thalassery biriyani recipe is having some differences in the preparation style too. The Kaima/Jeerakasala rice does not need pre-soaking; the rice only needs to be washed to clean it. Draining is not required after boiling as the water gets evaporated away.

File:Khyma and Basmati.jpg

Short-grained thin Kaima rice (left) and long-grained thin Basmati rice (right)- Kaima is only used to make Thalassery biriyani

Thalassery biryani is a Pakki-Biriyani. The combining of ghee rice and masala is done by dum process. Dum is a method of cooking by sealing the lid tightly and placing hot charcoal on the lid. The biriyani masala and ghee rice is arranged in layers inside the dish. Meat is cooked with masalas on a slow fire and layered with rice and then sealing the lid of the container with dough (Maida dough)or even loin cloth is used for sealing the lid tight and then fuming coal or any red hot charcoal is placed above the lid.

Specially dressed Chicken is poured into the masala dish. The Chicken gets slowly cooked in the masala, and gets blended well with the juices of masala and spices. Thalassery biriyani receipe has some additional specialty unlike other biryani it is not too oily as dum style is used for preparation, aromatic, unique taste-as innumerable spice is added into it and difference of the rice. The rice is not too loose and separate like the usual rice dish but held tight. No oil is required to make the Chicken. The cleaned raw chicken is added as it is into the masala mix.

Ingredients

Khaima rice, Chicken, Onion, Ginger, Garlic, Green chili, Lime juice, Shallot, Coriander leaves chopped, Pudina (mint leaves) chopped, Tomato, Ghee, Dalda (Vanaspati), Coconut oil, Edible Rose water, Curd/ Yogurt, Table salt. Garam masala powder, Persian Cumin(Caraway){{efn-ua|There are different varieties of fennel used in food recipes. They are *Cumin-Malayalam: ജീരകം, *Fennel(Sweet Cumin)-Malayalam: പെരും ജീരകം)), *Aniseed(Anise)-Malayalam: അനിസ്, *Black Cumin(Black Caraway)-Malayalam: കരിഞ്ജീരകം, *Caraway(Meridian Fennel, Persian Cumin)-Malayalam: ശീമ ജീരകം (സാ ജീരകം).
In Thalassery biryani Caraway or Persian Cumin is used, Mace, Turmeric powder, Red chili powder, Black pepper powder, Crushed curry leaves(Optional) Cinnamon, Cloves, Cardamom, Malabar leaf (Indian bay leaf), Indian white Poppy seed and for garnishing and texture Saffron soaked in milk, Pinch of artificial food colour, yellow or orange; and fried (coconut oil) mix of Onion, Cashew nuts and Kismis (sultana raisins), Star anise(Optional).

Accompaniments

One of the advantages of this cuisine, biryani is that it itself is a complete dish ready to be consumed as it is. There is no need of curry, as the masala is already blended to the ghee rice while cooking. As an aid for taste enhancement few accompaniments like the green biriyani chammandi, raita and pickle is usually used. As mentioned before no curry is used along with biriyani which is usually different from the consumption of most of the rice dishes.

Starters

• Indian Anchovy/Smelt crispy fried and garnished with chopped onion, curry leaves and lime juice squeezed over it, before the main course.

Side dish

"Afters"- Hot Black tea with Lime is prominently known in Malabar as 'Sulaimaani'

• Coconut-Mint Chammandi (Biriyani Chutney)
• Pickle(South Asian pickle)
• Raita

Afters

• Lime Black tea(Hot) is a prominent choice as afters, it adds a special taste after the main course and is in fact a digestion aid too due to the citrus lime juice ingredient. Lime tea is a prominent "Afters" in the Malabar region, especially in a rice based main-course.

Beverage

Daahashamani water, a medicated herbal drinking water, is preferred to be used in drinking water along with biriyani. Daahashamani need to be put into drinking water while boiling. The colour of the water changes to purple or pink or if other than daahashamani, only karingali is used the colour changes to yellow. It is good to use it in drinking water all times. Daahashamani is a natural thirst reliever and a digestion aid too.

Recipe-Preparation and Procedures

Thalassery biriyani has exclusiveness in recipe too. The Masala and the Rice is prepared separately and then combined using a method known as dum.
The ingredients are usually sorted out along with the necessary ingredients for the side dishes.

Recipe for Side dish

Raita- A coalesce of Curd, Salad (Onion, Tomato, Skinless green cucumber), Ginger, Mint leaves and Curry leaves

Pickle, Green Chammandi and Raita are the side dishes for Thalassery biryani.

Pickle

The pickle, known as South Asian Pickle preferably should not be too liquid, a more solid or semi solid one will match the dish. Dates pickle is a prominent choice.

Coconut-Mint Chutney

The Green Biriyani Chutney is an exclusive biriyani chutney, it is not like the usual Chutney in liquid form (grated coconut is the main content).

• Ingredients:

Grated Coconut, Lime (fruit) juice (or Curd/ (Yogurt)), Chopped mint leaves, Chopped coriander leaves, Ginger, Green chilies, Garlic, Curry leaves and Salt to taste.

Coconut-Mint Chammandi(Biriyani Chutney)

Raita

Raita is a Yogurt-Salad coalesce, it gives a cooling effect for the spicy main course. The use of Raita along with the dish is originated from its Mughlai cuisine heritage where raita was a side dish.

The preparation of Raita

• Ingredients:

Curd or diluted Yogurt, Salad, Green chilies chopped in small sizes, Mint leaves chopped, Crushed Ginger (Optional), Salt to taste.

• Ingredients of Salad:

Tomato, Green Cucumber and Onion, Capsicum. The green skin of cucumber should be removed else it will affect the taste of main course. Tomato and cucumber is chopped into small pieces. Chopped onion is then added. For garnishing tomatoes and Capsicum chopped into adequate size and shape can be used. Carrot is seldom used as its raw taste affects the taste of main course but a small amount of carrot chopped into very thin elongated strands will be a good visual appeal.

Recipe for Main course

Thalassery biriyani at dining

The preparation of biriyani is done by segregating the recipe, rice and masala, followed by garnishing and dum. Simultaneous preparation of side dish is also done. The dish doesn’t require oil for making the Chicken base (Chicken masala).
The specially dressed chicken of slightly larger pieces are used. The chicken is marinated and cleaned . The rice is a special variety called Kaima/Jeerakasala/Biriyani rice(basmati is not used). Kaima is small-grained and thin(not round) in shape. The choice of rice is the main difference between Thalassery biriyani and the rest. Unlike the other rice varieties, the rice should not be presoaked; however the rice should be cleaned using water. And also like the usual rice preparation, there is no need to drain water after boiling as there will be no water remaining after and the rice will be still tasty with an irresistible aroma.

Preparing Ghee Rice

• The rice is washed and drained.
• Ghee and small amount of Dalda (Vanaspati) boiled in a Kadai. The drained rice is added and fried for a few minutes.
• In the Kadai Salt and water is added. The Rice Water ratio is 1 cup : 1 ¾ cup. In this, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, malabar leaf (Indian bay leaf), Indian white poppy seed and Star anise(optional) are added. Add lime (fruit) juice and adequate water and reduce the flame to simmer mode. Close the pan with a lid and continue the cooking till all the water is absorbed. If overcooked the rice will turn out to be a paste and cannot be consumed.

Preparing Chicken Masala

The Masala is brown in colour and prepared separately. It is prepared in-situ by mixing spices while cooking it.

• Onion frying: Coconut oil and Ghee is boiled in a deep dish (deep kadai) and chopped onions are fried until it turns golden brown (Caramel) colour. The onions need to be put as batches to prevent it to become pulpy (mushy) due to the water content. Keep apart this in two sets, one for Chicken and a quarter portions for garnishing later. Usually the Cashew nuts and Kismis (raisin) for garnishing are fried along with onion and around 3/4 th of the onion is separated to use in chicken masala.

Thalassery biriyani prepared

• Chicken masala: For making the Chicken masala a stockpot (or any big deep dish) it taken and chopped tomatoes and a little water are stirred. No oil is used in the chicken masala. When tomatoes soften add crushed or chopped ginger, garlic, chopped green chily, chopped shallot and stir, until the raw smell fades. Subsequently fennel seeds, cumin seeds, turmeric powder, mace, red chili powder is added in adequate amount. Chicken is added finally to the masala and mixed with it and cooked by covering with lid. It needs to be stirred intermittently to prevent burning and sticking of masala on the dish. Once it is almost cooked add the fried Onion, Lime (fruit) juice, Garam masala powder and chopped coriander leaves and pudina (mint leaves) . The cooking in these stages are done in low flames and black pepper powder is added. Add Beaten Curd and cook till the chicken and masala blend together.

Coalesce the masala and rice

• Garnishing is done on the ghee rice. The following are the ingredients. Fried mix of Cashew nuts and Sultana raisins, a pinch of artificial colour (yellow/ orange) sprinkled over the rice, fried onion in ghee (remaining ¼ th of the fry made earlier for Chicken masala), saffron dipped in milk, Edible Rose water, coriander leaves, Star anise (Optional).

• Dum is the final stage of preparation. This is done after that by layering masala and rice and tightly sealing the lid by a maida dough or even using a loincloth. Hot coal or charcoal is placed on the lid while cooking. The flame need to be in a simmer mode in this stage of preparation.

Popularity

The dish is so popular that it is an indispensable dish in any fiesta in Malabar. The weddings are very elaborate in this region and biriyani is an unavoidable cuisine for the Muslim community. Even though traditional Sadya is the cuisine for Hindu weddings in the region, the wedding reception parties of Hindus as well as Christians usually have biriyani as familiar cuisine, mainly because it is more easier recipe than other main course cuisines and it is a complete food because unlike the other main course rice dishes it do not require curry, and an additional effort to make curries can be avoided. Unlike south Kerala Non vegetarian dishes are served during Onam and Vishu in Malabar and biriyani is an apparent choice.

In Fiction

The Malayalam movie, "Ustad Hotel" has it's theme based on the preparation of Thalassery biriyani. The film revolves around a restaurant, whose specialisation was Malabar cuisines that were made with out adulteration and according to traditional recipe, customers come especially to this restaurant in search of the authentic biriyani.

"April 2009 – We were at the first discussion meeting for Kerala Cafe in Kochi. All the directors arrived and I was meeting most of them for the first time. At lunchtime, biryani packets arrived at the table. It smelt delicious and as I helped myself I asked “where is this biryani from?”,.... in two years time we’d be creating Ustad Hotel together!" – Anjali Menon about the film.

The protagonists a youngster and his grandfather develops close bond and showcases new meanings of humanity and restaurant management. The restaurant is a prominent destination for food lovers as they produced biriyani based on genuine Malabar recipe. It is a story that touches the facets of love between a grandfather and grandson, a woman and a man, a father and son. The story depicts the importance of fiesta in Malabar culture. The choice of making the recipe of Malabar biryani as a theme for a blockbuster film shows how elegantly the dish is perceived in Malabar region and all over Kerala. Anjali Menon, an IFFK award winner is the Screenwriter of the film and Anwar Rasheed the Film director.

Nutrition

The dish is highly rich in nutrients as it is a rice-spice dish. As innumerable variety of spices are added, the dish is rich in proteins, carbohydrates and is also a source of rarely obtained minerals and vitamin variations. Nutritional value (According to U.S Dept. of Agriculture) of the spices is mentioned in the Notes. The dish is also contains some amount of Unsaturated as well as Saturated fats, if necessary the Saturated fat could be contained to an extent by adjusting the quantity of Dalda(Vanaspati) and to an extent Ghee also. Thalassery biriyani is an excellent choice as a party dish for an occasional fiesta.

See also

• Biryani
• Thalassery
• Cuisine of Kerala
• South Indian cuisine
• List of rice dishes

Gallery

• The Preparation of Thalassery biriyani
• 
  Step1-Ghee rice-Boiling the rice along with Spices
• 
  Step2-Ghee rice-Frying the rice
• 
  Step3-Fried onions (known as 'Bista') used for garnishing (Onion is fried along with Cashewnuts and Sultana raisins).
• 
  Step4-Biriyani Masala-Frying onion, spices & tomatoes
• 
  Step5-Biriyani Masala-Adding spice, mint & yogurt
• 
  Step6-Biriyani Masala-Adding and mixing Chicken pieces
• 
  The prepared biryani after garnishing and 'dum'.
• 

Notes and references

Notes

Name of ingredients and their corresponding nutritional value(Link to this is given as highlighted superscript). Data reference: Nutrient Data Laboratory, United States Department of Agriculture-Agricultural Research Service. Items marked in asterisk(*) are optional ingredients.

References

Bibliography of notable references

• Vinod, Ann (2010). "6, Chicken". Kachi's Kitchen: Family Favorites from Kerala and Tamil Nadu. Bloomington, Indiana, USA: AuthorHouse. p. 72. ISBN 9781449094232. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
• Karan, Pratibha (2009). Biryani. Noida, India: Random House India. ISBN 9788184002546. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
• Ishrat Alam, ed. (2004). The Beginner's Cook Book: Cereals And Pulses. Global Vision Publishing House. ISBN 9788182200388. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)

• Aji, Suhaina (2012-11-16). "Thalassery_Biriyani". http://www.mysingaporekitchen.com/. Retrieved 2013-07-04. {{cite web}}: External link in |publisher= (help)
• "Thalassery Chicken Dum Biryani". AnzzCafe. 2011-06-27. Retrieved 2013-07-04.
• Julie (17 April 2013). "Biriyani Chammanthi(chutney) | Green Chammanthi". http://www.erivumpuliyumm.com/. Julie. Retrieved 18 July 2013. {{cite web}}: External link in |work= (help)
• Julie (16 April 2013). "Thalassery Chicken Biriyani (Step by step pictures)". Erivumpuliyumm.com. Julie. Retrieved 18 July 2013.
• "Ghee Rice (Malabar Style) | Kerala dishes | Find recipes and make delicious". Kerala dishes. 2010-11-30. Retrieved 2013-07-19.

• Logan, William (1887). Malabar Manual, Volume 1 and Volume 2. Asian Educational Services. ISBN 8120604466. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)

• Ramunny, Murkot (1993). "2". Ezhimala: The Abode of the Naval Academy. Northern Book Centre. p. 17. ISBN 9788172110529. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)

Further reading

• Malabar biryani: Abdulla, Ummi (1993). Malabar Muslim Cookery. Orient Blackswan. ISBN 8125013490. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
• Hyderabadi biryani: Karan, Pratibha (1998). A Princely Legacy, Hyderabadi Cuisine. HarperCollins. ISBN 81-7223-318-3.
• Basmati Chicken biryani: Grandhi, Bindu (1998). Spice Up Your Life: The Flexitarian Way. New York: Cedar Fort. p. 109. ISBN 1599552736.

External links

• Thalassery cuisine at the Wikibooks Cookbook subproject
• The Map of Thalassery Town:Google Maps