Gaby Aghion
Gaby Aghion | |
---|---|
Born | Gabrielle Hanoka 1 March 1921 |
Died | 27 September 2014 | (aged 93)
Occupation | Fashion designer |
Known for | Founder of Chloé |
Spouse(s) | Raymond Aghion (1940-2009, his death) |
Children | Philippe Aghion |
Awards | Legion of Honor (2013.12.16)[1] |
Gabrielle Aghion (née Hanoka;[2][3] 1 March 1921[4] – 27 September 2014) was a Egyptian/French fashion designer and the founder of the French fashion house Chloé. She is said to have coined the phrase "prêt-à-porter".[5][6]
Career
Born in Alexandria, Egypt,[7] the daughter of a cigarette factory manager, she met her husband, Raymond Aghion (1921–2009), when both were seven years old in elementary school. He was born into a wealthy family of cotton exporters, but displayed early stirrings of the social consciousness that would later land him in political exile. Gaby and Raymond, both Jewish, married at the age of 19. The couple moved to Paris in 1945. In Paris the Aghions gravitated toward the Communists, becoming close to writers Louis Aragon, Paul Éluard and Tristan Tzara. Gaby launched Chloé in 1952. Raymond opened an art gallery in 1956, specializing in modern art.[8]
According to the website of Chloé, Aghion rejected the stiff formality of 1950s fashion[7] and created soft, feminine, body conscious clothes from fine fabrics, and called them "luxury prêt-à-porter". Unique for their time, they were beautifully made clothes available off the rack. She set up her workshop in a maid's room above her large flat. In 1953, Gaby Aghion joined forces with Jacques Lenoir – he ran the business side and she ran the creative side. The duo put on the first Chloé show in 1956 at a breakfast at the Café de Flore, the epicentre of young intellectual Parisians of the 1940s and 1950s.[9]
Aghion, later retired from the public eye, said: "Everything was yet to be invented, and this thrilled me." Aghion hired Karl Lagerfeld early in his career, and other emerging fashion designers.[10] Her son, Philippe, recalls Lagerfeld coming to the company in the mid-1960s: "When he arrived from [the house of] Jean Patou, Karl was a shy individual. He and my mother made a fantastic team. He came into the spirit of Chloé."[8]
Gaby Aghion continued to run the house until 1985, when Chloé was bought-out by Dunhill Holdings (now Compagnie Financière Richemont Group).[7] She died in Paris on 27 September 2014.[11][12]
Awards
- French Legion of Honor (2013)[7]
References
- ^ 蔻依 (Chloe) 品牌创始人Gaby Aghion于2015春夏女装秀前一天逝世,享年93岁 Retrieved 2016-08-17
- ^ "Raymond Aghion & Gabrielle, "Gaby" Hanoka". www.farhi.org. Retrieved 17 March 2018.
- ^ Alexandrie Info n° 35, décembre 2010. "Decès: Raymond Aghion, à Paris le 24 juin 2009, à l'âge de 88 ans; Raymond avait épousé Gaby Aghion, née Gabrielle Hanoka."
- ^ "HANOKA Gabriella". Retrieved 10 July 2020.
- ^ Chloé: A 60-Year Tradition of Pretty Prêt-à-Porter Archived 25 May 2012 at the Wayback Machine. Lauren Cochrane. The Guardian, 2 October 2012.
- ^ "Loading..." www.stylesequel.com. Retrieved 17 March 2018.
- ^ a b c d Socha, Miles (2 December 2013). "Chloé Founder to Receive Legion of Honor". WWD. Retrieved 3 December 2013.
- ^ a b Then And Now. Gaby Aghion founder and Clare Waight Keller designer of Chloe SA. Diderich, Joelle. Women's Wear Daily, 28 September 2012.
- ^ "Maison Chloé - Chloé Official Website". Chloé Official Website. Retrieved 17 March 2018.
- ^ Chloé at 60: the story of a fashion legend. The Guardian, 2 October 2012.
- ^ Hakim, Danny (28 September 2014). "Gaby Aghion, Founder of Chloé Fashion House, Dies at 93". New York Times.
- ^ Horwell, Veronica (28 September 2014). "Gaby Aghion obituary". The Guardian.
External links
- Chloé website
- Chloe by Helene Schoumann (published by Assouline, 2003).
- Gaby Aghion and Karl Lagerfeld revisit the past at an exhibition on the history of the Chloé label in Paris. The New York Times, 17 October 2012