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IFSC Climbing World Championships

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Not to be confused with IFSC Climbing World Cup.
IFSC Climbing World Championships
Seasons
Disciplines

The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Since 2012, a Combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking.[1][2][3][4]

The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.

History

Creation and organisers

In 1991, the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) organized the first climbing championships. The International Council for Competition Climbing (ICC) was created in 1997 as an internal body of the UIAA to take charge of competitions.[5]

In 2007, the independent IFSC was created as a continuation of the ICC to govern competition climbing.

Events

The present format has four disciplines: lead, speed, bouldering, and combined.

The first championships had two events: lead and speed. Bouldering was added in 2001.

In 2012, 2014 and 2016, a combined ranking (sometimes also called overall ranking) was computed for climbers participating in all of the three events.[1][2][3] In 2018, a specific combined event was included which the six climbers with highest overall ranking[6][7] were invited to enter. The combined event requires athletes to compete in all three disciplines, and they receive a single combined score based on all three results. Scores achieved in single-discipline events are not relevant to the combined score, and there are no awards for any one part of the combined event. The 2018 combined event tested the new Olympic Games format, which will be used at the first appearance of climbing at the Olympics in 2020. In 2019 the Combined competition was held again with the best eight men's and women's athletes receiving invitations to the 2020 Olympics.

Paraclimbing was introduced at the 2012 World Championships, but from 2019 it became its own championship, the IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships.

Years

The World Championships are held every two years. Twice, the cycle has been moved to the other year and in those cases this was done by holding the next championship one year earlier. In 2012 the World Championships were shifted to even years to avoid interference with the 2013 World Games climbing event and to give a supplementary opportunity to demonstrate the sport for a possible integration into the 2020 Olympic Games. In 2019 the World Championships were again held one year early, to now allow the Championships to be the year before each Olympics to operate as a qualifier event.[citation needed]


Championships

Edition Year Location Date(s) Disciplines Athletes Nations Website Notes
number lead speed boulder overall para
1 1991 Germany Frankfurt 2 October 2 • • 110 22 [8]
2 1993 Austria Innsbruck 30 April 2 • • 127 23 [9]
3 1995 Switzerland Geneva 6 May 2 • • 135 24 [10]
4 1997 France Paris 1 February 2 • • 153 26 [11]
5 1999 United Kingdom Birmingham 3 December 2 • • 180 30 [12]
6 2001 Switzerland Winterthur 5–8 September 3 • • • 198 25 [13]
7 2003 France Chamonix 9–13 July 3 • • • 241 34 [14]
8 2005 Germany Munich 1–5 July 3 • • • 318 51 [15]
9 2007 Spain Avilés 17–23 September 3 • • • 302 50 [16]
10 2009 China Xining 30 June – 5 July 4 • • • 219 44 [17]
11 2011 Italy Arco 15–24 July 4 • • • • 374 56 [18]
12 2012 France Paris 12–16 September 5 • • • • • 331 56 [19][1]
13 2014 Germany Munich 21–23 August 1 • 509 52 [1] [20][2]
Spain Gijón 8–14 September 4 • • • • [2]
14 2016 France Paris 14–18 September 5 • • • • • 533 53 [3] [21][3][22]
15 2018 Austria Innsbruck 6–16 September 5 • • • • • 834 58 [4] [23][4]
16 2019 France Briançon 16–17 July 1 •
Japan Hachioji 11–21 August 4 • • • • 253 39 [5] [24][25]
17 2021 Russia Moscow[26] ?

Medal table

As of 2019 (Medals from Paraclimbing are not included in the table)[27][circular reference]

RankNationGoldSilverBronzeTotal
1 Russia (RUS)16122452
2 France (FRA)12141642
3 Austria (AUT)116825
4 Ukraine (UKR)107421
5 Slovenia (SLO)85518
6 Czech Republic (CZE)610420
7 China (CHN)5319
8 Italy (ITA)5016
9 Japan (JPN)48618
10 Poland (POL)45716
11 Spain (ESP)4408
12 Switzerland (SUI)3159
13 Canada (CAN)3104
14 United States (USA)26210
15 Belgium (BEL)2608
16 South Korea (KOR)2518
17 Germany (GER)14813
18 Iran (IRN)1113
19 Kazakhstan (KAZ)0134
20 Venezuela (VEN)0101
21 Great Britain (GBR)0033
22 Netherlands (NED)0011
 Serbia (SRB)0011
Totals (23 entries)99100101300

Men's Results

Lead

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 France François Legrand Japan Yuji Hirayama Germany Guido Köstermeyer
1993 France François Legrand Germany Stefan Glowacz Japan Yuji Hirayama
1995 France François Legrand France Arnaud Petit Switzerland Elie Chevieux
1997 France François Petit United States Chris Sharma France François Legrand
1999 Italy Bernardino Lagni Japan Yuji Hirayama Ukraine Maksym Petrenko
2001 France Gérome Pouvreau Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek France François Petit
2003 Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza France David Caude
2005 Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza France Alexandre Chabot
2007 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Switzerland Cédric Lachat
Czech Republic Tomáš Mrázek
Netherlands Jorg Verhoeven
2009 Spain Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza Czech Republic Adam Ondra Austria David Lama
2011 Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Austria Jakob Schubert Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2012 Austria Jakob Schubert Canada Sean McColl Czech Republic Adam Ondra
2014 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanque Japan Sachi Amma
2016 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Austria Jakob Schubert France Gautier Supper
2018 Austria Jakob Schubert Czech Republic Adam Ondra Germany Alex Megos
2019 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Germany Alex Megos Austria Jakob Schubert

Bouldering

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 Italy Mauro Calibani France Frédéric Tuscan Italy Christian Core
2003 Italy Christian Core France Jérôme Meyer Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2005 Russia Salavat Rakhmetov Austria Kilian Fischhuber France Gérome Pouvreau
2007 Russia Dmitri Sarafutdinov Czech Republic Martin Stranik Switzerland Cédric Lachat
2009 Russia Alexey Rubtsov Russia Rustam Gelmanov United Kingdom David Barrans
2011 Russia Dmitri Sarafutdinov Czech Republic Adam Ondra Russia Rustam Gelmanov
2012 Russia Dmitri Sarafutdinov Austria Kilian Fischhuber Russia Rustam Gelmanov
2014 Czech Republic Adam Ondra Slovenia Jernej Kruder Germany Jan Hojer
2016 Japan Tomoa Narasaki Czech Republic Adam Ondra France Manuel Cornu
2018 Japan Kai Harada South Korea Jongwon Chon Slovenia Gregor Vezonik
2019 Japan Tomoa Narasaki Austria Jakob Schubert Germany Yannick Flohé

Speed

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 United States Hans Florine France Jacky Godoffe Kazakhstan Kairat Rakhmetov
1993 Russia Vladimir Netsvetaev Ukraine Serik Kazbekov Ukraine Yevgen Kryvosheytsev
1995 Ukraine Andrey Vedenmeer Czech Republic Milan Benian Russia Vladimir Netsvetaev
1997 Spain Daniel Andrada Ukraine Yevgen Kryvosheytsev Russia Dmitry Bychkov
1999 Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov Russia Vladimir Netsvetaev Russia Alexey Gadeev
2001 Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy Ukraine Vladimir Zakharov Poland Tomasz Oleksy
2003 Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy Poland Tomasz Oleksy Russia Alexander Peshekhonov
2005 Russia Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Ukraine Maksym Styenkovyy Russia Sergey Sinitcyn
2007 China Zhong Qixin Venezuela Manuel Escobar Russia Sergey Sinitcyn
2009 (10 m) China Zhong Qixin Kazakhstan Alexander Nigmatulin Russia Ivan Novikov
2009 (15 m)[28] China Zhong Qixin Russia Sergey Abdrakhmanov China Ning Zhang
2011 China Zhong Qixin Russia Stanislav Kokorin Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev
2012 China Zhong Qixin Czech Republic Libor Hroza Russia Dmitry Timofeev
2014 Ukraine Danyil Boldyrev Russia Stanislav Kokorin Iran Reza Alipour
2016 Poland Marcin Dzieński Iran Reza Alipour Russia Aleksander Shikov
2018 Iran Reza Alipour France Bassa Mawem Russia Stanislav Kokorin
2019 Italy Ludovico Fossali Czech Republic Jan Kriz Russia Stanislav Kokorin

Combined

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012[1] Canada Sean McColl Germany Thomas Tauporn Switzerland Cédric Lachat
2014[2] Canada Sean McColl Germany Jan Hojer France Levier Alban
2016[3][22] Canada Sean McColl France Manuel Cornu Germany David Firnenburg
2018[4] Austria Jakob Schubert Czech Republic Adam Ondra Germany Jan Hojer
2019 Japan Tomoa Narasaki Austria Jakob Schubert Kazakhstan Rishat Khaibullin

Women's Results

Lead

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Switzerland Susi Good France Isabelle Patissier United States Robyn Erbesfield
1993 Switzerland Susi Good United States Robyn Erbesfield France Isabelle Patissier
1995 United States Robyn Erbesfield France Laurence Guyon France Liv Sansoz
1997 France Liv Sansoz Belgium Muriel Sarkany Germany Marietta Uhden
1999 France Liv Sansoz Belgium Muriel Sarkany United States Yelena Ovchinnikova
2001 Slovenia Martina Cufar Belgium Muriel Sarkany France Chloé Minoret
2003 Belgium Muriel Sarkany France Emilie Pouget France Sandrine Levet
2005 Austria Angela Eiter United States Emily Harrington Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2007 Austria Angela Eiter Belgium Muriel Sarkany Slovenia Maja Vidmar
2009 Austria Johanna Ernst South Korea Kim Ja-in Slovenia Maja Vidmar
2011 Austria Angela Eiter South Korea Kim Ja-in Austria Magdalena Röck
2012 Austria Angela Eiter South Korea Kim Ja-in Austria Johanna Ernst
2014 South Korea Kim Ja-in Slovenia Mina Markovič Austria Magdalena Röck
2016 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Belgium Anak Verhoeven Slovenia Mina Markovič
2018 Austria Jessica Pilz Slovenia Janja Garnbret South Korea Kim Ja-in
2019 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Slovenia Mia Krampl Japan Ai Mori

Bouldering

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2001 France Myriam Motteau France Sandrine Levet Ukraine Nataliya Perlova
2003 France Sandrine Levet Ukraine Nataliya Perlova France Fanny Rogeaux
2005 Ukraine Olga Shalagina Russia Yulia Abramchuk Czech Republic Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova
2007 Austria Anna Stöhr Japan Akiyo Noguchi Russia Olga Bibik
2009 Russia Yulia Abramchuk Ukraine Olga Shalagina Austria Anna Stöhr
2011 Austria Anna Stöhr United States Sasha DiGiulian Germany Juliane Wurm
2012 France Mélanie Sandoz Russia Olga Yakovleva Austria Anna Stöhr
2014 Germany Juliane Wurm United States Alex Puccio Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2016 Switzerland Petra Klingler Japan Miho Nonaka Japan Akiyo Noguchi
2018 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Japan Akiyo Noguchi Serbia Staša Gejo
2019 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Japan Akiyo Noguchi United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey

Speed

Year Gold Silver Bronze
1991 Belgium Isabelle Dorsimond France Agnès Brard Russia Venera Chereshneva
1993 Russia Olga Bibik Belgium Isabelle Dorsimond Poland Renata Piszczek
1995 France Natalie Richer France Cecile Avezou Poland Renata Piszczek
1997 Russia Tatiana Ruyga Russia Irina Zaytseva Russia Olga Bibik
1999 Ukraine Olga Zakharova Ukraine Olena Ryepko Russia Natalia Novikova
2001 Ukraine Olena Ryepko Russia Maya Piratinskaya Russia Svetlana Sutkina
2003 Ukraine Olena Ryepko Russia Tatiana Ruyga Russia Valentina Yurina
2005 Ukraine Olena Ryepko Russia Valentina Yurina Poland Edyta Ropek
2007 Russia Tatiana Ruyga Poland Edyta Ropek Russia Valentina Yurina
2009 (10 m) China He Cuilian China He Cuifang China Li Chunhua
2009 (15 m) China He Cuilian China He Cuifang China Li Chunhua
2011 Russia Maria Krasavina Russia Anna Tsyganova Kazakhstan Tamara Kuznetsova
2012 Russia Yulia Levochkina Russia Yulia Kaplina Russia Natalia Titova
2014 Russia Alina Gaidamakina Poland Klaudia Buczek Poland Aleksandra Rudzińska
2016 Russia Anna Tsyganova France Anouck Jaubert Russia Yulia Kaplina
2018 Poland Aleksandra Rudzińska Poland Anna Brożek Russia Maria Krasavina
2019 Poland Aleksandra Mirosław China Di Nui France Anouck Jaubert

Combined

Year Gold Silver Bronze
2012 South Korea Kim Ja-in France Cecile Avezou Switzerland Petra Klingler
2014[2] France Charlotte Durif Switzerland Petra Klingler Slovenia Mina Markovič
2016[3][22] Russia Elena Krasovskaya United States Claire Buhrfeind France Charlotte Durif
2018[4] Slovenia Janja Garnbret South Korea Sa Sol Austria Jessica Pilz
2019 Slovenia Janja Garnbret Japan Akiyo Noguchi United Kingdom Shauna Coxsey

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  2. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings". IFSC. Archived from the original on 18 September 2018. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  3. ^ a b c d e "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  4. ^ a b c d "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  5. ^ "Climbing Competitions' History". ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 24 September 2015. Retrieved 12 May 2013.
  6. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Men". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  7. ^ "2018 World Championships – Combined general result – Women". IFSC. Retrieved 21 September 2018.
  8. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Frankfurt 1991". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  9. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Innsbruck 1993". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  10. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Genève 1995". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  11. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Paris 1997". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  12. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Birmingham (GBR) 1999". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  13. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Winterthur (SUI) 2001". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  14. ^ "UIAA Worldchampionship – Chamonix (FRA) 2003". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  15. ^ "UIAA World Championship – Munich (GER) 2005". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  16. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship (L + B + S) – Aviles (ESP) 2007". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  17. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  18. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  19. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 May 2013.
  20. ^ http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/world-championships
  21. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  22. ^ a b c "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings" (PDF). EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  23. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018". IFSC. Retrieved 17 September 2018.
  24. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  25. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships Combined – Hachioji (JPN) 2019". ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 25 August 2019.
  26. ^ "IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap". IFSC. 16 March 2019. Retrieved 17 May 2019.
  27. ^ fr:Championnats du monde d'escalade
  28. ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships – Qinghai (CHN) 2009 – 15 m Speed".
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